:Okonomiyaki

A thin crêpe-like confection called {{ill|funoyaki|ja|麩の焼き}} may be an early precursor to okonomiyaki.{{Harvnb|Heibonsha|1964}} encyclopedia vol. 3, p. 445, article on okonomiyaki by Tekishū Motoyama 本山荻舟 (1881–1958){{cite web |url=http://okonomiyakiworld.com/Okonomiyaki-History.html |title=Okonomiyaki History |publisher=Okonomiyaki World |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=23 July 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210723154414/http://okonomiyakiworld.com/Okonomiyaki-History.html |url-status=live}} Records of the word {{Transliteration|ja|funoyaki}} appear as far back as the 16th century, as written about by tea master Sen no Rikyū,{{Harvnb|Kumakura|2007}}, p.168 and though the dish's ingredients are unclear, it may have included fu (wheat gluten). By the late Edo period (1603–1867),In {{Harvnb|Heibonsha|1964}} {{Transliteration|ja|funoyaki}} is (mistakenly) said to be a late Edo-period confection funoyaki referred to a thin crêpe baked on a cooking pot, with miso basted on one side. This confection is the ancestor of the modern confections {{Nihongo|kintsuba|金つば}}, which is also called {{Nihongo|gintsuba|銀つば}} in Kyoto and Osaka, and taiko-yaki (also known as imagawayaki), which both use {{Nihongo|nerian|練り餡}}, a sweet bean paste.

In the Meiji era (1868–1912), {{Nihongo|monjiyaki|文字焼き}}, a related confection, was popular with children at {{Nihongo|dagashiya|駄菓子屋}}, shops selling cheap sweets.{{Cite web |title=「関西風」のルーツは東京だった！花柳界と切り離せないお好み焼きの黎明期 |work=JBpress（日本ビジネスプレス） |date=16 August 2013 |access-date=6 August 2021 |trans-title=The roots of "Kansai style" were Tokyo! The dawn of okonomiyaki, which is inseparable from the Hanayanagi world |url=https://jbpress.ismedia.jp/articles/-/38464?page=2 |archive-date=6 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210806124521/https://jbpress.ismedia.jp/articles/-/38464?page=2 |url-status=live}} This was made by drawing letters (monji) or pictures with flour batter on a teppan (iron griddle) and adding ingredients of choice. The confectionary was also called {{Nihongo|dondonyaki|どんどん焼き}}, from the onomatopoeia of the stall sellers beating drums to attract customers.{{cite encyclopedia |title=お好み焼き |encyclopedia=Encyclopedia Nipponica, Volume 4 |year=1985 |last=沢 |first=史生 |publisher=Shogakukan |page=155 |url=https://kotobank.jp/word/お好み焼き-1513538 |language=ja |access-date=28 August 2021 |archive-date=7 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210807224614/https://kotobank.jp/word/%E3%81%8A%E5%A5%BD%E3%81%BF%E7%84%BC%E3%81%8D-1513538 |url-status=live }}

The first appearance of the word "okonomiyaki" was at a shop in Osaka in the 1930s.{{cite web |url=https://foodicles.com/okonomiyaki-history/ |title=All About the Famous Japanese Pancake. |first=Angela |last=Sibal |date=26 May 2021 |publisher=Foodicles |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=7 June 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210607181620/https://foodicles.com/okonomiyaki-history/ |url-status=live}}{{cite web |url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/culture/article/beyond-the-bomb-hiroshimas-beloved-okonomiyaki-pancake |title=Beyond the Bomb: Hiroshima's Beloved Okonomiyaki Pancake |date=4 August 2015 |first=Ari |last=Beser |work=National Geographic |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20210823222338/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/culture/article/beyond-the-bomb-hiroshimas-beloved-okonomiyaki-pancake |url-status=dead |url-access=subscription }} After the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake when people lacked amenities, it became a pastime to cook these crêpes, and after World War II (when there was a short supply of rice) okonomiyaki emerged as an inexpensive and filling dish for all ages, often with savory toppings, such as meat, seafood, and vegetables. This "okonomiyaki boom" saw household equipment and ingredients for the dish become commercially available. Monjiyaki also developed into the related modern dish {{Nihongo|monjayaki|モンジャ焼き}}, which has a more runny batter due to more added water, resulting in a different cooked consistency.

The {{ill|issen yōshoku|ja|一銭洋食}} (cheap Western-style cuisine) of Kyoto, which developed in the Taishō period (1912–1926), may have produced an early form of modern savory okonomiyaki in the form of a pancake with Worcestershire sauce and chopped scallion.{{cite book |last=Ono |first=Fujiko (小野藤子) |title=おうちで作る鄉土ごはん |publisher=枻出版社 |year=2009 |isbn=9784777914449 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EgbejNUUW9gC&pg=PA95 |access-date=24 September 2016 |archive-date=8 March 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170308045520/https://books.google.com/books?id=EgbejNUUW9gC&pg=PA95 |url-status=live}}, p.95

File:Okonomiyaki_006.jpg

File:Okonomiyaki 007.jpg

The dish is known for two distinct main variants, one in Kansai and Osaka and one in Hiroshima.{{cite web |url=https://www.otajoy.com/pages/what-is-okonomiyaki |title=Okonomiyaki, an Overview |work=Otajoy.com |access-date=2 March 2017 |archive-date=3 March 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170303124432/https://www.otajoy.com/pages/what-is-okonomiyaki |url-status=dead}} Another variety is hirayachi, a thin and simple type made in Okinawa.{{cite web |url=http://kyoudo-ryouri.com/en/food/2899.html |title=Hirayachi |publisher=Story of Japanese Local Cuisine |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=28 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210128140606/http://kyoudo-ryouri.com/en/food/2899.html |url-status=live}}{{Cite web |url=https://food52.com/recipes/82370-best-okonomiyaki-recipe |title=Ivan Orkin's Savory Pancakes (Okonomiyaki) Recipe on Food52 |website=Food52 |access-date=28 August 2021 |archive-date=31 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210531081434/https://food52.com/recipes/82370-best-okonomiyaki-recipe |url-status=live }}

Okonomiyaki in the Kansai or Osaka style is the predominant version of the dish, found throughout most of Japan. The batter is made of flour, grated nagaimo (a long type of yam), dashi or water, eggs, shredded cabbage, and usually contains other ingredients such as green onion, meat (usually thinly sliced pork belly or American bacon), octopus, squid, shrimp, vegetables, konjac, mochi, or cheese.

It is sometimes compared to an omelette or a pancake and is sometimes referred to as a "Japanese pizza" or "Osaka soul food".{{Cite web |url=http://www.theguardian.com/food/2021/may/12/how-to-make-the-perfect-okonomiyaki-recipe-felicity-cloake |title=How to make the perfect okonomiyaki – recipe | Felicity Cloake's The perfect … |date=12 May 2021 |website=The Guardian |access-date=28 August 2021 |archive-date=26 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210826233140/https://www.theguardian.com/food/2021/may/12/how-to-make-the-perfect-okonomiyaki-recipe-felicity-cloake |url-status=live }}{{cite web |url=http://www.sankei.com/premium/news/161108/prm1611080002-n1.html |trans-title=There is no such thing as "Hiroshima-yaki"! NHK "Lunch" corrects telop in "Okonomiyaki love" of the citizens of the prefecture |script-title=ja:「広島焼き」なんてものはない！と抗議 県民の「お好み焼き愛」でＮＨＫ『サラメシ』がテロップ修正 |date=8 November 2016 |work=Sankei.com |access-date=6 August 2021 |archive-date=25 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210425092811/https://www.sankei.com/premium/news/161108/prm1611080002-n1.html |url-status=live}}{{Cite web |url=https://99japan.com/blogs/news/how-to-make-a-delicious-okonomiyaki |title=99japan |access-date=13 March 2018 |archive-date=27 September 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200927032320/https://99japan.com/blogs/news/how-to-make-a-delicious-okonomiyaki |url-status=dead}} The dish can be prepared in advance, allowing customers to use a teppan or special hotplates to fry after mixing the ingredients. They may also have a diner-style counter where the cook prepares the dish in front of the customers.{{cite web |url=https://savorjapan.com/contents/discover-oishii-japan/how-to-eat-okonomiyaki-in-japan/ |title=How to eat Okonimiyaki in Japan |website=Savor Japan |date=5 June 2020 |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=24 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210824001332/https://savorjapan.com/contents/discover-oishii-japan/how-to-eat-okonomiyaki-in-japan/ |url-status=live}}

It is prepared much like a pancake. The batter and other ingredients are pan-fried on both sides on a teppan using metal spatulas that are later used to cut the dish when it has finished cooking. Cooked okonomiyaki is topped with ingredients that include okonomiyaki sauce (made with Worcestershire sauce), aonori (seaweed flakes), katsuobushi (bonito flakes), Japanese mayonnaise, and pickled ginger (beni shōga).

When served with a layer of fried noodles (either yakisoba or udon), the resulting dish is called {{nihongo|modan-yaki|モダン焼き}}, the name of which may be derived from the English word "modern" or as a contraction of {{Nihongo||盛りだくさん|mori dakusan}}, meaning "a lot" or "piled high" signifying the volume of food from having both noodles and okonomiyaki. {{nihongo|Negiyaki|ねぎ焼き|}} is a thinner variation of okonomiyaki made with a great deal of scallions, comparable to Korean pajeon and Chinese green onion pancakes.

A variation called kashimin-yaki is made of chicken and tallow instead of pork in Kishiwada, Osaka.{{cite web |url=https://maidonanews.jp/article/13722622 |script-title=ja:絶品ローカルお好み焼き！岸和田の「かしみん焼き」ご存知ですか…大阪風「まぜ焼き」とは異なる「のせ焼き」 |trans-title=Exquisite local okonomiyaki! Do you know about Kashiwada's "kashiminyaki"? Differences from Osaka "mazeyaki" and "noseyaki" |language=ja |date=14 September 2020 |author=中将タカノリ |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=16 September 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200916050606/https://maidonanews.jp/article/13722622 |url-status=live}} In Hamamatsu, takuan (pickled daikon) is mixed in okonomiyaki.{{cite web |url=https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXKZO61021080R00C20A7KNTP00/ |script-title=ja:たくあん入れて薄く焼き上げる 浜松の遠州焼き |trans-title=Takuan sprinkled and grilled: Hamamatsu's enshūyaki |date=2 July 2020 |author=新沼大 |publisher=Nikkei Style |language=ja |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=17 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210117011929/https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXKZO61021080R00C20A7KNTP00/ |url-status=live}} Stewed sweet kintoki-mame is mixed in okonomiyaki in Tokushima Prefecture.{{cite web |url=https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXKZO80642150Y4A201C1EL1P01/ |script-title=ja:お好み焼きに金時豆 徳島の「豆天玉」 |trans-title=Red kidney beans in Okonomiyaki: Tokushima's mameamadama |date=10 December 2014 |author=上原吉博 |publisher=Nikkei Style |language=ja |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=24 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210824000111/https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXKZO80642150Y4A201C1EL1P01/ |url-status=live}}

File:Okonomiyaki_004.jpg

File:Hiroshimayaki(Okonomiyaki).jpg

In the city of Hiroshima, there are over 2000 okonomiyaki restaurants, and the prefecture has more of those restaurants per capita than any other place in Japan. {{nihongo|Issen yōshoku|一銭洋食||lit. "one-coin Western food"}}, a thin pancake topped with green onions and bonito flakes or shrimp, became popular in Hiroshima prior to World War II. After the atomic bombing of the city in August 1945, issen yōshoku became a cheap way for the surviving residents to have food to eat. Because the original ingredients were not always easy to obtain, many of the street vendors and shops began making it {{nihongo|"cooked how you like it"|お好み焼き|okonomiyaki}}, using whatever ingredients were available.

File:Preparing_okonomiyaki_in_Hiroshima.jpg

The ingredients are layered rather than mixed. The layers are typically batter, cabbage, pork, and yakisoba. Optional items such as squid, octopus, dried bonito flakes, and other seafood, as well as nori flakes or powder, mung bean sprouts, egg, chicken, cheese, and other ingredients, depending on the preferences of the cook and the customer.{{cite web |url=https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20200413-is-hiroshima-the-true-home-of-okonomiyaki |title=Is Hiroshima the true home of okonomiyaki? |date=13 April 2020 |first1=Steve John |last1=Powell |first2=Angeles Marin |last2=Cabello |publisher=BBC |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210823224811/https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20200413-is-hiroshima-the-true-home-of-okonomiyaki |url-status=live}} Noodles (yakisoba, udon) are also used as a topping with fried egg and a generous amount of okonomiyaki sauce.{{Cite web |title=Hiroshima Okonomiyaki Recipe |work=Japan Centre |access-date=6 August 2021 |url=https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/406-hiroshima-okonomiyaki |archive-date=4 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210404030518/https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/406-hiroshima-okonomiyaki |url-status=live}}

The amount of cabbage used is usually three to four times the amount used in the Osaka style.{{Cite book |title=Okonomiyaki |author= |date=August 2012 |publisher=Trafford |isbn=9781466908147 |access-date=6 August 2021 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vLXxWrMiVB0C |quote= |archive-date=6 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210806124521/https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Okonomiyaki/vLXxWrMiVB0C?hl=en&gbpv=0 |url-status=live}} It starts out piled very high and is pushed down as the cabbage cooks. The order of the layers may vary slightly depending on the chef's style and preference, and ingredients vary depending on the preference of the customer. This style is also called Hiroshima-yaki or Hiroshima-okonomi.

In and around the Hiroshima area, there are a number of variations on the style. {{nihongo|Fuchuyaki|府中焼き|fuchūyaki}} is made with ground meat instead of pork belly in Fuchū, Hiroshima.{{cite web |url=http://www.asahi.com/area/tokyo/articles/MTW20201210131740006.html |script-title=ja:広島県・府中市 府中焼き 店長は元力士 |trans-title=Hiroshima Prefecture - Fuchū City Fuchūyaki shop managers are the foundation of sumo wrestler |date=10 December 2020 |publisher=Asahi Shimbun Digital |access-date=23 August 2021 |language=ja |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210823190859/http://www.asahi.com/area/tokyo/articles/MTW20201210131740006.html |url-status=live}} Oysters (kaki) are mixed in okonomiyaki to make kaki-oko in Hinase, Okayama.{{cite web |url=https://www.asahi.com:443/articles/ASM1Z64MQM1ZPPZB00L.html |script-title=ja:谷口茉妃菜さん「決定的瞬間撮る！」 その時カキオコは |trans-title=Ms. Mahina Taniguchi "Recording the crucial moment!" of that kakioko time |date=14 February 2019 |first=Miyuki |last=Kanno |publisher=Asahi Shimbun Digital |language=ja |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210823200202/https://www.asahi.com/articles/ASM1Z64MQM1ZPPZB00L.html |url-status=live }} On the island of Innoshima, a variety called {{nihongo|Innoshima okonomiyaki|因島お好み焼き|}} (or {{nihongo|in'oko|いんおこ|}} for short) includes udon, bonito flakes, Worcestershire sauce, and vegetables fried with uncooked batter.{{cite journal |url=http://www.sanwadock.co.jp/diary/ij.html |script-title=ja:いんおこ巡礼 |trans-title=In'oko Pilgrimage |date=29 August 2010 |journal=IJ (Inoshima Japan) |publisher=Sanwadock |language=ja |access-date=23 August 2021 |url-status=dead |archive-date=5 June 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130605103706/http://www.sanwadock.co.jp/diary/ij.html }} Together with "Onomichiyaki", in'oko is considered a B-class gourmet food along the Shimanami Kaidō.{{cite web |url=http://www.asahi.com/kansai/travel/news/OSK201010210006_01.html |script-title=ja:焼豚玉子飯、いんおこ…しまなみ海道、Ｂ級グルメで活気 |trans-title= |date=21 October 2010 |author1=寺門充 |author2=広津興一 |publisher=Asahi Shimbun Digital |language=ja |access-date=23 August 2021 |url-status=dead |archive-date=1 November 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161101042406/http://www.asahi.com/kansai/travel/news/OSK201010210006_01.html }} There is a restaurant in Hiroshima where customers can order jalapeños, tortilla chips, chorizo, and other Latin American items either in—or as a side dish to—okonomiyaki.

Otafuku, one of the most popular brands of okonomiyaki sauce, is based in Hiroshima and has an okonomiyaki museum and a cooking studio there. Okonomi-mura, in Naka-ku in Hiroshima, was the top food theme park destination for families in Japan according to an April 2004 poll.{{cite web |url=http://www.home-tv.co.jp/jstation/news/2004_2.html |script-title=ja:「お好み村」が家族で行ってみたいフードテーマパークで1位に！ |trans-title="Okonomi-mura" the #1 food theme park families want to visit! |date=3 May 2004 |publisher=Hiroshima Home Television |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110721202419/http://www.home-tv.co.jp/jstation/news/2004_2.html |archive-date=21 July 2011 |language=ja |url-status=dead}}{{cite web |url=http://www.jiu.ac.jp/books/bulletin/2007/tour/07_ushida.pdf |script-title=ja:観光地における飲食業 |trans-title=The food and drink industry in sightseeing areas |author=牛田泰正 (Yasumasa Uchida) |language=ja |date=Spring 2007 |page=50 |access-date=11 December 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110727081208/http://www.jiu.ac.jp/books/bulletin/2007/tour/07_ushida.pdf |archive-date=27 July 2011 |url-status=dead}}

Hirayachi ({{langx|ryu|ヒラヤーチー}} hirayaachii) is a thin, very simple Okinawan pancake-like dish similar to buchimgae. It is basically "a savory Okinawan crepe with leeks",{{cite web |url=https://www.okinawa.com/blog/research/recipes-food/goya-champuru-hiraya-chi |title=Goya Champuru & Hiraya-chi |date=4 April 2007 |author=Marty |publisher=Okinawa.com |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=23 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210823183832/https://www.okinawa.com/blog/research/recipes-food/goya-champuru-hiraya-chi |url-status=live}} and is sometimes called "Okinawan style okonomiyaki". The name means "fry flat" in the Okinawan language.{{cite web |url=https://www.onookinawa.com/2016/06/03/hirayachi-%E3%83%92%E3%83%BC%E3%83%A9%E3%82%84%E3%81%A1/ |title=Hirayachi: ヒラヤーチー |date=3 June 2016 |publisher=Ono Okinawa |access-date=23 August 2021 |archive-date=17 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210117214148/https://www.onookinawa.com/2016/06/03/hirayachi-%E3%83%92%E3%83%BC%E3%83%A9%E3%82%84%E3%81%A1/ |url-status=live}}

People cook it at home, so there are few okonomiyaki restaurants in Okinawa, with none of them serving hirayachi.{{Cite web |url=http://en.okinawa2go.jp/u/gourmet/1g8p1vfmu6f6vg |title=Okinawan well-known emergency food called Hiraya-ch |access-date=22 September 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150503090658/http://en.okinawa2go.jp/u/gourmet/1g8p1vfmu6f6vg |archive-date=3 May 2015 |url-status=dead}} The ingredients consist of eggs, flour, salt, black pepper and green onions, fried with a little oil in a pan.

The Tsukishima district of Tokyo is popular for both okonomiyaki and monjayaki (the district's main street is named "Monja Street").{{Cite web |title=Food for Thought - Okonomiyaki - Monjayaki - Tsukishima |last=Beddall |first=Michael |work=mikesblender.com |access-date=6 August 2021 |url=http://www.mikesblender.com/indexblog90.htm |archive-date=14 July 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110714092407/http://www.mikesblender.com/indexblog90.htm |url-status=live}} In some areas of Kyoto city, an old-style okonomiyaki called betayaki (べた焼き) is served. The dish is prepared in layers of thin batter, shredded cabbage and meat, with a fried egg and noodles.{{cite web |title=Donguri Okonomiyaki Dining in Kyoto, Japan: Okonomiyaki vs Betayaki vs Negiyaki |date=20 August 2013 |url=https://www.thepoortraveler.net/2013/08/where-to-eat-cheap-in-kyoto-japan-donguri-okonomiyaki-restaurant-review/ |publisher=The Poor Traveller |access-date=7 November 2020 |archive-date=28 November 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201128191323/https://www.thepoortraveler.net/2013/08/where-to-eat-cheap-in-kyoto-japan-donguri-okonomiyaki-restaurant-review/ |url-status=live}}

Okonomiyaki is popular streetfare in cities including Manila, Taipei, Bangkok, and Jakarta.{{Cite news |url=https://lifestyle.kompas.com/read/2011/02/10/18504197/okonomiyaki.merambah.kaki.lima |title=Okonomiyaki Merambah Kaki Lima |publisher=Kompas Cyber Media |date=10 February 2011 |access-date=15 September 2018 |language=id |archive-date=15 September 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180915160237/https://lifestyle.kompas.com/read/2011/02/10/18504197/okonomiyaki.merambah.kaki.lima |url-status=live}}

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{{reflist}}

{{Refbegin}}

• {{cite book |author=Heibonsha |title=世界百科事典 (Sekai hyakka jiten) |year=1964}} (World Encyclopedia, in Japanese).
• {{cite book |last=Kumakura |first=Isao (熊倉功夫) |title=Nihon ryori no rekishi (日本料理の歴史) |publisher=Yoshikawa Kobunkan (吉川弘文館) |year=2007}}

{{Refend}}

{{Sister project links

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• [https://web.archive.org/web/20170303124432/https://www.otajoy.com/pages/what-is-okonomiyaki What is Okonomiyaki? - Okonomiyaki, an Overview.] The history of Okonomiyaki and Okonomiyaki sauce in Hiroshima.
• [http://www.japan-guide.com/r/e100.html "As-you-like-it Pancake"]{{spaced ndash}} Okonomiyaki; what it is, how to cook it, and a sample recipe.

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Category:Culture in Hiroshima Prefecture

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