Aiguille du Chardonnet

{{Short description|Mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name =Aiguille du Chardonnet

| photo =Aiguille du Chardonnet from Argentière.JPG

| photo_caption = View from Argentière (west side)

| elevation_m = 3824

| elevation_ref =

| prominence_m = 503

| prominence_ref = Retrieved from the Swisstopo topographic maps. The key col is the Col du Chardonnet (3,321 m)

| range = Mont Blanc Massif

| location =Haute-Savoie, France

| map = France

| range_coordinates =

| listing = Alpine mountains above 3000 m

| label_position = left

| coordinates = {{coord|45|58|08|N|07|00|05|E|type:mountain_region:FR_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| coordinates_ref =

| type =

| first_ascent =

| easiest_route =

}}

The Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France. It lies between the {{illm|Glacier du Tour|fr|Glacier du Tour}} and the Argentière Glacier. The border with Switzerland (elevation: 3,680 m at its nearest point) runs just east of the summit. The East or Forbes Arete provides a popular and classic mountaineering route to the summit.

The summit was first climbed on 20 September 1865, by a party comprising R Fowler, M Balmat and M Ducroz. The first winter ascent was made some time prior to 1914.{{cite book|last1=Griffin|first1=Lindsay|title=Mont Blanc Massif Volume 2|date=1991|pages=226–227|publisher=Alpine Club|location=London|isbn=0900523581}}

Routes

  • West Ridge – traditionally regarded as the 'normal' and easiest route on the mountain, it is nowadays most commonly used as a means of descent. On the French adjectival climbing scale, is graded at AD−. First ascent P Thomas, J Imboden and J Lochmatter, 1 August 1879.
  • East Ridge (Forbes Arete) – a classic alpine mountaineering route described as "one of the finest expeditions of its class anywhere in the Alps", and is combined with a descent of the west ridge. First ascent by L, H and T Aubert and M Crettez on 30 July 1899. Grade AD.

There are many other mountaineering routes on the Chardonnet. On the northern side these include the North Buttress (D−); North Couloir (TD−); North West Couloir (TD−). On the south west face, Capucins Buttress Direct offers along and sustained climbing on rock at D+.

Access

The Aiguille du Chardonnet is most easily reached from the Albert Premier Hut, though the Trient Hut and Saleina Hut also give access.

References

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