Alexander Megos

{{Short description|German rock climber}}

{{expand German|topic=bio|date=August 2022|Alexander Megos}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2022}}

{{Infobox climber

| image = 2022-08-12 European Championships 2022 – Sport Climbing Men's Lead by Sandro Halank–056.jpg

| image_size =

| caption = Megos at the 2022 European Championships

| name = Alexander Megos

| nationality = German

| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1993|08|12|df=y}}

| birth_place = Erlangen, Germany

| death_date =

| death_place =

| residence =

| education =

| occupation = Professional rock climber

| height = 170 cm{{Cite web |url=https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2lbq51/i_am_alex_megos_ask_me_anything/cltak4i/ |title=Reddit AMA Alex Megos |date=5 November 2014 |website=Reddit.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150408084426/https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2lbq51/i_am_alex_megos_ask_me_anything/ |archive-date=8 April 2015}}

| weight = 57 kg

| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|

}}

| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|9b+}}

| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|9a}}

| highestflash =

| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|8C}}

| knownfor = {{flatlist|

  • First-ever person to onsight a {{Climbing grade|9a}}
  • Third-ever person to climb {{Climbing grade|9b+}}

}}

| firstascents = {{ubl|Fight Club (9b, 2016) | Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 2018) | Bibliographie (9b+, 2020) | Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, 2022) | The Full Journey (9b, 2022)}}

| namedroutes =

| majorascents =

| worlds =

| show-medals =

| website =

| updated = 27 June 2024

| medaltemplates =

{{MedalSport | Men's competition climbing }}

{{MedalCountry | {{GER}} }}

{{MedalCompetition|World Championships}}

{{MedalSilver|2019 Hachiōji|Lead}}

{{MedalBronze |2018 Innsbruck|Lead}}

{{MedalBronze |2023 Bern|Lead}}

{{MedalCompetition | World Cup }}

{{Medal|Gold | Briancon 2018 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Silver | Innsbruck 2024 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Silver | Innsbruck 2023 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Silver | Villars 2021 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Silver | Chamonix 2019 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Silver | Kranj 2017 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Bronze | Villars 2023 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Bronze | Briancon 2022 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Bronze | Villars 2019 | Lead }}

{{Medal|Bronze | Chamonix 2018 | Lead }}

}}

Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a {{Climbing grade|9a}} graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two {{Climbing grade|9b+}} routes (Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie), four {{Climbing grade|9b}} routes (Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder {{Boulder grade|8C}} rating.

Early life

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg.{{Cite web |url=https://www.nordbayern.de/sport/alexander-megos-klettert-in-die-weltspitze-1.2952693 |title=Alexander Megos klettert in die Weltspitze |website=nordbayern.de |language=de |access-date=2019-09-25}} There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first {{Climbing grade|8a}}. Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first {{Climbing grade|8c}} by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first {{Climbing grade|9a}} by ascending San Ku Kai.

Climbing career

=Competition climbing=

Alexander Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Champion in 2011.{{Cite web |url=https://www.redbull.com/int-en/athlete/alex-megos-climbing |title=Alexander Megos |website=Red Bull |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}} In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series.{{Cite web |url=https://www.digitalrock.de/pstambl.php?person=9058&cat=11 |title=Alexander Megos digital rock profile |website=Digitalrock.de }} In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D2%26keyid=40740 |title=Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}}

In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France,{{Cite web |url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/chamonix-2018-highlights-winners-and-top-canadians/ |title=Chamonix 2018 Highlights, Winners and Top Canadians |date=14 July 2018 |website=Gripped.com |access-date=27 October 2021}} and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup.{{Cite web |url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/alex-megos-wins-first-lead-world-cup/ |title=Alex Megos Wins First Lead World Cup |date=22 July 2018 |website=Gripped.com |access-date=27 October 2021}} Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition.{{Cite web |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/results-2018-ifsc-climbing-world-championships/ |title=Results: 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships |website=Climbing.com |date=16 September 2018 |access-date=27 October 2021}} He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.{{cite web |title=Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo |url=https://www.lacrux.com/en/competition/Jakob-Schubert-and-Alexander-Megos-qualify-for-the-Olympic-Summer-Games-2020-in-Tokyo/ |website=LACRUX Klettermagazin |access-date=18 July 2021 |language=en |date=19 August 2019}}

Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018.{{Cite web |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/12/la_sportiva_legends_only_2018-71792 |title=NEWS: La Sportiva Legends Only 2018 |website=Ukclimbing.com |date=3 December 2018 |access-date=27 October 2021}} He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

=Sport climbing=

On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+).{{Cite web |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/alexander_megos_climbs_wheelchair_9a+-68474 |title=VIDEO: Alexander Megos climbs Wheelchair, ~9a+ |website=Ukclimbing.com |date=2 November 2013 |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}} Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D2%26keyid=41887 |title=Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}}

Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from {{Climbing grade|9a+}} to {{Climbing grade|8c+}}, in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified {{Climbing grade|9a+}}, one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time.{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso%3Fl%3D2%26keyid=41777 |title=Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}} In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization {{Climbing grade|9a+}} in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.{{Cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/interview-alex-megos-sends-biographie-realization-5-15a-in-three-tries |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160101191946/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/interview-alex-megos-sends-biographie-realization-5-15a-in-three-tries |url-status=dead |archive-date=2016-01-01 |title=Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries |date=2016-01-01 |access-date=2019-09-25}}

In June 2014, Alexander Megos, together with Roger Schäli, completed the first ascent of the 20-pitch route Fly {{Climbing grade|8c}} in Staldeflue, Switzerland, one of the most difficult big-wall climbing routes in the world.{{Cite web |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-fly-8c-multipitch-in-switzerlands-lauterbrunnental.html |title=Alexander Megos frees Fly, 8c multipitch in Switzerland's Lauterbrunnental |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en |access-date=2019-09-25}}

In April 2015, Megos returned to Australia, completing the first ascent of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (35). On 1 October 2015, he climbed the route Supernova in Franconian Switzerland and, by doing so, likely established the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries.{{Cite web |url=https://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/news/artikel/1060 |title=Supernova (11+): Alexander Megos gelingt erste 11+ im Frankenjura! - News zu Klettern - Frankenjura.com |website=Frankenjura.com |access-date=2019-09-25}}

Megos' ascent of First Round First Minute in December 2015 marked the completion of his first {{Climbing grade|9b}}.

On 9 May 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain, a line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his ascent and graded it {{Climbing grade|9b+}}.

In August 2020, Megos completed his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse, grading it {{climbing grade|9c}}, after working on it for 60 days.{{Cite web |title=Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it…" |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/2369953061183124105 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |access-date=2020-08-06 |website=Instagram |language=en}}{{cbignore}} However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi had matched this feat, the route was downgraded to {{climbing grade|9b+}}, which Megos agreed was more fitting.{{cite news |title=Alex Megos Agrees With Bibliographie Downgrade to 5.15c |url=https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-agrees-with-bibliographie-downgrade-to-5-15c/ |access-date=19 July 2022 |work=Gripped |date=30 August 2021}}

Same 2020 Megos established Pornographie, a new route between Bibliographie and L’Étrange Ivress. He graded it {{Climbing grade|9a}} without using knee-pads.

=Bouldering=

In May 2020, Megos ascended Upgrade U {{boulder grade|8C}}, one of the most challenging bouldering problems in his native northern Bavaria.{{Cite web |last=Magazine |first=Lacrux |date=2020-07-15 |title=Alexander Megos begeht den schwersten Boulder im Frankenjura: Upgrade U (8c) |url=https://www.lacrux.com/bouldern/alexander-megos-begeht-den-schwersten-boulder-im-frankenjura-upgrade-u-8c/ |access-date=2020-07-15 |website=LACRUX Klettermagazin |language=de-DE}}{{Cite web |url=https://kletterszene.com/news/markus-windischgelang-die-erste-wiederholung-von-gossip-8c/ |title=Markus Windisch gelang die erste Wiederholung von Gossip (8C) |date=3 June 2009 |access-date=2 December 2021}}

Notable ascents

= [[Redpoint (climbing)|Redpointed]] routes =

{{Climbing grade|9b+}}

:* Bibliographie (5 August 2020). First Ascent (after 60 days of effort). Route bolted by Ethan Pringle.{{Cite web |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-sends-multi-year-project-bibliography-suggests-5-15d/ |title=Alex Megos Sends Multi-Year Project Bibliographie, Suggests 5.15d |website=Climbing.com |date=6 August 2020 |access-date=27 October 2021}} Originally graded 9c by Megos, downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi to 9b+.{{Cite web |last=Clarke |first=Owen |date=2021-09-08 |title=Stefano Ghisolfi on Climbing the World’s Hardest Grade… and Then Downgrading It |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/stefano-ghisolfi-downgrades-bibliographie-5-15c/ |access-date=2024-07-11 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}

:* Perfecto Mundo (9 May 2018). First Ascent. Route bolted by Chris Sharma.{{Cite web |title=Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+" |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BikRmNwH28F/ |url-access=registration |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1775621545987632901 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |access-date=2018-05-09 |website=Instagram.com |language=en}}{{cbignore}}

:* Change (21 August 2024). Fourth Ascent (after 5 days of effort).{{Cite web |last=Pardy |first=Aaron |date=2024-08-22 |title=Alex Megos Sends Adam Ondra's Change 5.15c |url=https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-adam-ondras-change-5-15c/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}} First Ascent by Adam Ondra.

{{Climbing grade|9b}}

:* First Round, First Minute (31 December 2015). Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.{{Cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-sends-first-round-first-minute-5-15b-and-more |title=Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More |website=Rockandice.com |access-date=2016-05-07}}

:* Fight Club (14 August 2016). First Ascent.{{Cite web |date=16 August 2016 |title=Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15 |url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-establishes-fightclub-canadas-first-5-15/ |access-date=18 August 2016 |website=Rockandice.com}} Route bolted by Sonnie Trotter.

:* Mejorando Imagen (25 April 2021). Second Ascent. First Ascent by Ramón Julián. Originally graded 9a, upgraded by Megos to 9b.{{Cite web |title=Alexander Megos repeats Margalef's Mejorando Imagen and proposes 9b |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-repeats-margalef-mejorando-imagen-proposes-9b.html |access-date=2022-11-12 |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en}}

:* King Capella (November 2021). Second Ascent (after 9 days of effort). First Ascent by Will Bosi.{{Cite web |title=Alexander Megos repeats King Capella at Siurana in Spain |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-repeats-king-capella-at-siurana-in-spain.html |access-date=2022-11-12 |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en}}

:* Ratstaman Vibrations (31 July 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Chris Sharma.{{Cite web |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-frees-ratstaman-vibrations-cool-sharma-project-ceuse.html |title=Alex Megos frees Ratstaman Vibrations, cool Sharma project at Céüse |date=1 August 2022 |website=planetmountain.com |access-date=22 August 2022}}

:* The Full Journey (9 October 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Tom Bolger.{{Cite web |title=Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-completes-the-full-journey-9b-margalef.html |access-date=2022-11-12 |website=PlanetMountain.com |language=en}}

:* Sleeping Lion (4 January 2024). Second Ascent (after 8 days of effort). First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+ by Sharma, downgraded by Megos to 9b.{{Cite web |last=Deuto |first=Christopher |date=2024-01-18 |title=Alex Megos on the Second Ascent of Chris Sharma’s 'Sleeping Lion' |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-sleeping-lion/ |access-date=2024-07-11 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}{{Cite web |last=Pardy |first=Aaron |date=2024-01-24 |title=Alex Megos' Second Ascent of Sharma's Sleeping Lion |url=https://gripped.com/video/alex-megos-second-ascent-of-sharmas-sleeping-lion/ |access-date=2024-07-11 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}

:* Move (3 September 2024). Third Ascent.{{Cite web |last=Deuto |first=Christopher |date=2024-09-04 |title=After Olympic Disappointment, Alex Megos Reminds Us Why He's One of the World's Best Rock Climbers |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-change-olympics/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}} First Ascent by Adam Ondra. Graded 9b/+ by Megos.{{Cite web |title=Instagram |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/C_gNnZOClaa/?img_index=1 |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=www.instagram.com}}

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

:* Chan Chan Bastards

:* Supernova - First Ascent.

:* La Capella{{Cite web |title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Dec 14, 2021 |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/ |url-access=registration |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/2728720153883601521_2728720149496223104 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |access-date=2021-12-14 |website=Instagram}}{{cbignore}}

{{Climbing grade|9a+}}

:* Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/alex-megos-5-15a-second-try/ |title=Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a |date=30 November 2015 |website=Climbing.com |access-date=5 May 2016}}

:* La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.{{Cite web |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a |title=Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles |website=Dpmclimbing.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160530160453/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a |archive-date=2016-05-30 |url-status=dead}}

:* Biographie - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.{{Cite web |url=http://dmmclimbing.com/pro-team/alexander-megos/ |title=Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipmen- |website=Dmmclimbing.com |language=en-US |access-date=2016-05-07}}

:* Corona - Third Ascent.

:* Classified - First Ascent.

:* Modified - First Ascent.{{Cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/videos/video-alex-megos-climbs-modified-5-15a-in-frankenjura/ |title=Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura |date=9 November 2015 |website=Climbing.com |access-date=5 May 2016}}

:* First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.

:* Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.{{Cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave |title=Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave |website=Rockandice.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160525213251/http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave |archive-date=2016-05-25 |url-status=dead}}

:* Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.{{Cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-repeats-geocache-5-15a-in-a-day |title=Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day |website=Rockandice.com |access-date=2016-06-02 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160529103846/http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-repeats-geocache-5-15a-in-a-day |archive-date=2016-05-29 |url-status=dead}}

:* Becoming - First Ascent.{{Cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BL71wtujxHp/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1367923355936559593 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC |website=Instagram |access-date=2016-10-24}}{{cbignore}}

:* Super Crackinette - First Ascent.{{Cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BLrauk4D8BT/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1363300862110187603 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC |website=Instagram |access-date=2016-11-13}}{{cbignore}}

:* Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.{{Cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BaFotNkh5QO/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1622882269545337870 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |title=Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC |website=Instagram |language=en |access-date=2017-10-11}}{{cbignore}}

{{Climbing grade|9a}}

:*Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.{{Cite web |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours |title=Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles |website=Dpmclimbing.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160530160222/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours |archive-date=2016-05-30 |url-status=dead}}

:* La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.

:*Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.{{Cite web |url=http://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-dreamcatcher-5-14d-fourth-ascent |title=Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent |website=Gripped.com |access-date=27 August 2016}}

:*Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).{{Cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuXOinHRnA/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1760446658654312896 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |title=Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" - went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…" |website=Instagram |language=en |access-date=2018-04-18}}{{cbignore}}

:* Speed Intégrale - Voralpsee, Switzerland in two days, 2017 {{Cite web |url=https://www.redbull.com/int-en/alexander-megos-switzerland-10-hardest-climbs-in-six-days |title=Watch Alexander Megos climb 10 of Switzerland's hardest routes in 6 days |website=Redbull.com |access-date=27 October 2021}}

:* Coup de grâce - Val Bavona, Switzerland second go, 2017 {{Cite web |url=http://escalade9.wifeo.com/coup-de-grace.php |title=Coup de Grace |website=Escalade9.wifeo.com |access-date=27 October 2021}}

:* The Illusionist - Third Ascent. Climbed on the same day as Move (9b/+).

Other notable ascents

:*Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.{{Cite web |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight |title=World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles |website=Dpmclimbing.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130329180642/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight |archive-date=2013-03-29 |url-status=dead}}

:* Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.

:*Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June 2016.{{Cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70488 |title=UK Climbing |last=Pohl |first=Bjorn |date=1 Jun 2016 |website=Ukclimbing.com |access-date=2 June 2016}}

= [[Onsight]]ed routes =

{{Climbing grade|9a}}

:* Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight.

:* TCT{{Cite web |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71104/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos |title=TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos |website=ukclimbing.com |date=21 May 2017 |access-date=2017-11-08}}

{{Climbing grade|8c+}}

:* Victimes del Passat

= [[Bouldering|Boulder problems]] =

{{Boulder grade|8C / 8C+}}

:* Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth an 8C+ (V16) rating.{{Cite web |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-austrailia-s-grampians |title=Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians |website=Rockandice.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140101060603/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-austrailia-s-grampians |archive-date=2014-01-01 |url-status=dead}}

{{Boulder grade|8C}}

:* The Story of Two Worlds - First Ascended by Dave Graham in 2005, repeated by Megos in December 2020.{{Cite web |date=2020-12-26 |title=Alex Megos Sends Story of Two Worlds V15 |url=https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-story-of-two-worlds-v15/ |access-date=2020-12-30 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}

:* Dreamtime - Ascended by Megos on 18 December 2020.{{Cite web |date=2020-12-20 |title=Alex Megos Sends Dreamtime V15 in Switzerland |url=https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-dreamtime-v15-in-switzerland/ |access-date=2020-12-30 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}

:*Upgrade U - First Ascent May 2020, rated 8C and accepted as the hardest boulder problem in the Frankenjura.{{Cite web |last=Magazine |first=Climbing |date=9 July 2020 |title=Watch Alex Megos Make the First Ascent of Upgrade U (V15) |url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/watch-alex-megos-make-the-first-ascent-of-upgrade-u-v15/ |access-date=2020-07-15 |website=Climbing Magazine |language=en-us}}

:*Half Life - Second ascent April 2020, Frankenjura, Megos confirmed as 8C

:*The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands, South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on {{Boulder grade|8C}}.{{Cite web |url=https://gripped.com/news/daniel-woods-sends-finnish-line-says-v15 |title=Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15 |website=gripped.com |date=2 July 2018 |access-date=2018-09-07}}

:* Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.

:* [http://www.redbull.com/en/adventure/stories/1331711486232/alex-megos-lucid-dreaming-bishop-boulder Lucid Dreaming] - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).

{{Boulder grade|8B+}}

:* Never Ending Story

:* Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent.

:* Montecore:{{Cite web |url=http://gripped.com/video/alex-megos-v14/ |title=Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine |date=2014-11-26 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US |access-date=2016-05-07}}

:* Riot Act

:* Double Demerit - First Repeat.{{Cite web |url=http://www.epictv.com/video/climbing/alex-megos-makes-fast-work-double-demerit-v14/8b-epictv |title=Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) {{!}} EpicTV|website=Epictv.com|access-date=2016-05-07}}

:* Sky{{Cite web |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands |title=Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles |website=Dpmclimbing.com |access-date=2016-05-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150615014902/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands |archive-date=2015-06-15 |url-status=dead}}

:* Trainspotting - First Ascent.{{Cite web |url=https://www.instagram.com/p/BMMipfgjdEC/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1372624371353243906 |archive-date=2021-12-25 |url-access=registration |title=Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC |website=Instagram |access-date=2016-10-31}}{{cbignore}}

Rankings

= Climbing World Cup =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2009

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2010

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2011

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2012

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2013

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2014

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2015

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2016

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2017

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2018

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2019

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2021

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2022

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2023

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2024

align="left" | Lead

| 55

| 37

| 35

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| 22

|6

|7

| 10

| 14

| style="background: Silver" | 2

| 22

align="left" | Bouldering

| -

| -

| -

| 73

| -

| -

| -

| -

| 28

|55

|19

| 9

| 22

| 33

| -

align="left" | Speed

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

align="left" | Combined

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| -

| 38

|

|

|

|

|

|

= Climbing World Championships =

File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Megos 06.jpg lead finals]]Youth

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2009
Youth A

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2010
Youth A

align="left" | Lead

| 8

| style="background: silver;" | 2

Adult

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2018

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2019

! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2023

align="left" | Lead

| style="background: #cc9966" | 3

| style=" background: silver" | 2

| style="background: #cc9966" | 3

align="left" | Bouldering

| 25

| 25

| 17

align="left" | Speed

| 109

| 75

| -

align="left" | Combined

| 11

|

| 13

= Climbing European Championships =

class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Discipline

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2010

! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2017

align="left" | Lead

| 23

| -

align="left" | Bouldering

| -

| style="background: silver;" | 2

align="left" | Speed

| -

| -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

= Lead =

class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"
width = "55" | Season

! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold

! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver

! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze

! width = "55" | Total

201711
2018112
2019112
202111
202211
2023

|

|1

|1

|2

2024

|

|1

|

|1

Total15410

Personal life

Megos has been vegan since the beginning of 2021.{{cite web |url=https://www.8a.nu/news/megos-and-the-environmental-catastrophe-dvhe1 |title=Megos and the Environmental Catastrophe |website=8a.nu |date=27 September 2024 |access-date=27 September 2024}}

Megos and his family have provided housing, via their properties in Erlangen, to Ukrainian refugees, saying the refugees are "friends and family". He said that athletes feel too far from the Ukrainian War to believe they can be of any help, and wishes that they would use their platform to help people.{{Cite web |last=Barronian |first=Abigail |date=2022-03-31 |title=Professional Climber Alex Megos Is Housing 15 Ukrainian Refugees |url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/ukrainian-refugees-climber-alex-megos-jenya-kazbekova/ |access-date=2024-11-14 |website=Outside Online |language=en-US}}

See also

References

{{Reflist|refs=

{{cite web |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/ranking |title=World Cup Rankings |editor=IFSC |website=Ifsc-climbing.org |date=20 August 2019 |access-date=20 August 2019}}

{{cite web |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=2574 |title=Megos's profile and rankings |editor=IFSC |website=Ifsc-climbing.org |date=13 July 2021 |access-date=13 July 2021}}

}}