André Noël (chef)

André Noël - or Nouël{{Cite journal |last=Noël |first=Lucien |date=1909 |title=Friedrichs des Großen Hofküchenmeister Noël |url=http://digital.zlb.de/viewer/image/14688141_1909/96/ |journal=Mitteilungen des Vereins für die Geschichte Berlins |language=de |issue=26 |pages=82–84}} - was born in Périgueux in 1726,{{cite book|date=December 1999|first1=Guy|isbn=978-2-86577-214-8|language=fr|last1=Penaud|location=Périgueux|page=714|publisher=éditions Fanlac|title=Dictionnaire biographique du Périgord}}.{{cite book |last1=Pitte |first1=Jean-Robert |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4pkJYZ_olH4C&pg=PT60 |title=Gastronomie française: histoire et géographie d'une passion |date=1991 |publisher=Fayard |isbn=978-2-213-64673-2 |series=Nouvelles Études Historiques |page=150 |language=fr}}. in the Limogeanne district.{{cite web|access-date=10 December 2016|ref=Esprit de Pays|title=Le pâté de Périgueux traditionnel|url=http://espritdepays.com/gastronomie-terroirs-viticulture/specialites-regionales/le-pate-de-perigueux-traditionnelle|website=Esprit de Pays Dordogne-Périgord}}. His father was a flourishing confectioner with "prodigious talent for pâtés",At the time, pâté-making was the preserve of pastry-makers ({{Cite book |last=Pitte |first=Jean-Robert |title=Histoire de l'alimentation: Naissance et expansion des restaurants |publisher=Fayard |year=1996 |page=770 |language=fr}}), a profession practiced by both Noël the father in Angoulême and the famous Courtois in Périgueux. which he shipped all over Europe.{{harvsp|Casanova|Vèze|1931|p=266|ps="This man had made a fortune from this trade [of pâtés]. He assured me that he also sent some to America, and that with the exception of those lost in shipwrecks, all had arrived perfect. His pâtés were mostly turkey, partridge and hare, filled with truffles; but he also made some with foie gras, larks and thrushes, depending on the season."}}. Almost nothing is known of his career prior to his departure for Prussia, Philippe Meyzie cautioning against any a posteriori reconstruction of a "mythologized past"{{Cite book |last=Meyzie |first=Philippe |title=La table du Sud-Ouest et l'émergence des cuisines régionales: 1700-1850 |publisher=Presses universitaires de Rennes |year=2007 |isbn=978-2-7535-0373-1 |pages=91–95 |language=fr}} and Hans-Uwe Lammel suggesting that Noël's father's fame may have played a role in his son's career.{{Cite book |last=Lammel |first=Hans-Uwe |url=https://geschmed.med.uni-rostock.de/fileadmin/Institute/medgeschichte/Texte/text2.pdf |title=Aus dem politischen Küchenkabinett: Eine kurze Kulturgeschichte der Kulinarik: Friedrich II. von Preußen und die Töpfe des Epikur, oder: Gehörte auch la Bombe à la Sardanapale zum Speisezettel der Kuren in Aachen und Pyrmont? |publisher=Nomos |year=2013 |language=fr}}

In 1755, André Noël was hired as a cook at the court of King Frederick II of Prussia, at the Sanssouci Palace in Potsdam.{{cite book|date=1997|first1=S.A.M.|isbn=978-1-349-25762-1|language=en|last1=Adshead|page=36|publisher=Springer|title=Material Culture in Europe and China, 1400–1800: The Rise of Consumerism}}.{{Cite journal |last=Maether |first=Bernd |date=September 2009 |title=Kochen für den König |url=http://www.perspectivia.net/publikationen/friedrich300-colloquien/friedrich-hof/Maether_Kochen/#sdfootnote69sym |journal=Friedrich300 |language=de |issue=2}} This can be contextualized in two ways:

File:Les Dons de Comus.jpg

File:Schatullrechnung.tif account book: in August 1755, reimbursement of his travel expenses from Dresden to Potsdam (line 21).]]

• At the time, it was considered best to "only cook with French cooks".{{Cite book |last=Rambourg |first=Patrick |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=y2AuII1u2P4C&pg=PT101 |title=Histoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie française |publisher=Perrin |year=2010 |page=101 |isbn=9782262042417 |language=fr}} French chefs like Vincent La Chapelle were sought after by European princes.{{Cite journal |last1=Mazzocut-Mis |first1=Maddalena |last2=Allia |first2=Pietro |date=February 2014 |title=La bonne cuisine et le siècle des Lumières |journal=Nouvelle revue d'esthétique |volume=14 |language=fr |issue=2 |page=115 |doi=10.3917/nre.014.0115|doi-access=free }} Some of them, such as Frederick II, "to amuse themselves, do not disdain to speak sometimes about cooking",{{Cite book |last=Marin |first=François |title=Les Dons de Comus, ou les Délices de la table |publisher=Prault |year=1739 |page=16 |language=fr}} as stated in the warning to Les Dons de Comus, a manual of "nouvelle cuisine" published in 1739 by François Marin.{{cite book|date=1996|first1=Stephen|language=en|last1=Mennell|pages=77–82|publisher=University of Illinois Press|title=All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the Present}}. Frederick II had also read Les Dons de Comus, even though French and German cuisine coexisted at his table.{{cite book|first1=Christiane|last1=Mervaud|page=8|publisher=Desjonquères|title=Voltaire à table. Plaisir du corps, plaisir de l'esprit|date=6 December 2015 |isbn=9782843211812 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hGoZCwAAQBAJ&pg=PT8}} Every day, his two cooks and his two German cooks submitted suggestions. The king ticked off the items that appealed to him, preferring the dishes that appealed to him - pickles in vinegar, for example, rather than pâté à la romaine. He employed French chefs, such as the "famous Duval",{{cite book|date=1867|page=474|publisher=Cherbuliez|title=Mémoires du prince Pierre Dolgorourow|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=VpdKAAAAcAAJ&pg=PA474|volume=1}}. who entered his service in 1731.{{cite book|date=1913|first1=Hans|language=de|last1=Droysen|page=99|publisher=Duncker et Humbolt|title=Tageskalender des Kronprinzen Friedrich von Preußen vom 26. Februar 1731 bis 31. Mai 1740|url=http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/tageskalender/1/431_99/}}.In a letter from 1737, Frédéric felt that his chef did "wonders" to "stuff the bellies" of his guests {{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=289|ps=Read online at: http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/16/289/}}. In 1744, another French chef, Émile Joyard from Lyon,{{Harvp|Thiébault|1804|pages=266-268|loc=t. 1|ps=at https://archive.org/details/messouvenirsdevi01thie?view=theater#page/267/mode/1up}} son-in-law of Antoine Pesne,{{harvsp|Frédéric II|1846|loc=t. 25|p=592}} . joined Frederick's staff; he remained maître d'hôtel for thirty years.{{harvsp|Frédéric II|1846|loc=t. 10|p=114}} .In an epistle from 1760, Frédéric evokes. "Joyard [who] wants to give himself to the devil / To invent dishes, worthy gifts of Comus, / Under their disguises hardly yet known" ({{Cite book |last=Frédéric II |url=http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/pageview/11831794 |title=Œuvres du philosophe de Sans-Souci |year=1760 |page=143 |language=fr}}).
• In the 18th century, pâtés du Périgord, particularly those from Périgueux, were "the most expensive of entremets"{{Cite book |last1=Flandrin |first1=Jean-Louis |title=Histoire de l'alimentation : Introduction |last2=Montanari |first2=Massimo |year=1996 |page=8 |language=fr}} and a renowned noble gift.{{Cite journal |last=Meyzie |first=Philippe |date=January 2006 |title=Les cadeaux alimentaires dans le Sud-Ouest aquitain au 18th century : sociabilité, pouvoirs et gastronomie |journal=Histoire, économie & société |language=fr |doi=10.3917/hes.061.0033}} However, the reference to Périgord most often refers not to the geographical origin of the dish, but to its preparation "à la Périgord", i.e. with the incorporation of truffles.{{cite book|date=1992|first1=Claudine|last1=Marenco|page=285|publisher=l'ENS-Cachan|title=Manières de table, modèles de mœurs: XVIIe-XXe siècles}}. As early as 1743, Frederick II's correspondence attests to his fondness for these pâtés.{{Cite journal |date=May 6, 1917 |title=Échos |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k488244f/f2.item |journal=Journal des débats |language=fr}} He "loved truffles and sent for a pâté from Périgord every year",{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=150|ps=Read online at: url=http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/150-o2/}}{{Cite book |last=Denina |first=Carlo |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NuhCAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA400 |title=Essai sur la vie et le règne de Frederic II, roi de Prusse |publisher=Decker |year=1788 |pages=400–401 |language=fr}}Périgueux pâté was best served in winter, in earthenware terrines with lids. in particular those from Courtois, a pastry-maker in Périgueux, of which he "was particularly fond". He also sent them as gifts.{{harvsp|Frédéric II|1846|loc=t. 20|p=176|ps=Read online at: http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/176-o2/}} . The king remained "particularly" attached to pâtés throughout his life, a French diplomat noting that as he neared death, he ate nothing but "pâtés of eel and Périgueux".{{Cite book |last=Cabanès |first=Augustin |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k57351754/f262.item |title=Folie d'empereur : une dynastie de dégénérés : Guillaume II jugé par la science |publisher=Albin Michel |year=1924 |page=256 |language=fr}}

File:Tafelrunde.PNG, Casanova, La Mettrie and Voltaire dine with Frederick II.]]

Casanova met André Noël at Madame Rufin's in 1764, during a stay in Berlin.{{Harvp|Casanova|Vèze|1931|p=48}}Casanova adds that Frederick II "did not live like Lucullus, for [...] this king had only one cook and Noël had only one kitchen assistant or marmiton " ({{Harvp|Casanova|Vèze|1931|p=48}}). This testimony is contradicted by that of Thiébault, who refers to a team of twelve cooks. Even an insulting libel attributed four cooks to Frederick II ({{Cite book |last=de la Beaumelle |first=Laurent Angliviel |title=Idée de la personne, de la manière de vivre, & de la cour du roi de Prusse |year=1752 |author-link=Laurent Angliviel de la Beaumelle}}) and in the midst of war, when one of his French cooks died, the king immediately sought to replace him and gave "Noël a commission [to] bring in one of the best known". ({{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=158|loc=t.19|ps=on http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/19/158/}})

As early as 1761, Frederick II expressed his satisfaction with Noël, writing to the Marquis d'Argens that "Noël was able to satisfy the most gourmet epicurean in Europe".{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|ps=Read online at: http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/19/285/|page=285}} According to B. Maether, second head chef in 1767. In 1784, on the death of Joyard, he was appointed Joyard's successor as maître d'hôtel".Dieudonné Thiébault, to clarify the meaning of the position of maître d'hôtel at the court of the King of Prussia, sometimes says "maître d'hôtel, or rather chief cook, or only first cook" ({{Harvp|Thiébault|1804|p=250|loc=t. 3|ps=on https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k28626n/f254.item}}) and sometimes "chef of the kitchens or, if you like, maître d'hôtel to his majesty", ({{Harvp|Thiébault|1804|p=153|loc=t. 3|ps=on https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k28626n/f157.item}}) while Mirabeau writes that "in Prussia, names refer to things". ({{Cite book |last=Mirabeau |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=unHSlUm8FI0C&pg=PA168 |title=De la monarchie prussienne sous Frédéric le Grand |year=1788 |page=168, t. 5 |author-link=Honoré Gabriel Riqueti, comte de Mirabeau}}). Noël headed a team of twelve cooks{{Cite journal |last=Conrad |first=Andreas |date=October 10, 2008 |title=Aber bitte mit Senf |url=https://www.tagesspiegel.de/berlin/aber-bitte-mit-senf-6836185.html |journal=Tagesspiegel |language=de}}According to his grandson Lucien Noël, his grandfather's team of cooks consisted not of twelve, but of twenty-four. According to other sources, the chief cook had under his command five royal cooks, eight master chefs, three bakers, seven pasty cooks, five butchers, two fish-keepers and one poultryman. ({{Cite book |last1=Schieder |first1=Theodor |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-uKCCwAAQBAJ&pg=PA88 |title=Frederick the Great |last2=Scott |first2=H.R. |last3=Krause |first3=Sabina |publisher=Routledge |year=2016 |page=88|isbn=9781317901525 }}) to provide royal service at the palace. When Frederick II invited a foreign guest to his table, André Noël could serve up to eighty dishes.File:Monatliche Schatullrechnungen (1755).jpgs for "pastry" (Mehlspeisen).]]

The king's meals often gave rise to a ceremonial, with Frederick II composing verses to celebrate the occasion.

File:Epitre au sieur Noel.jpg

According to Friedrich Nicolai, the "bombe de Sardanapale"Sardanapale was traditionally considered to have "surpassed all his predecessors in lust and laziness". ({{Cite book |last=Saurin |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7tdeAAAAcAAJ&pg=PA10 |title=Discours historiques, critiques, théologiques, et moraux, sur les événemens les plus mémorables du Vieux, et du Nouveau Testament |publisher=Sauzet |year=1739 |page=10, t. 8 |language=fr}}) Voltaire, however, wondered: "Was this Sardanapale a voluptuous idler or a philosopher hero? ({{Cite book |last=Voltaire |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WsHUAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA341 |title=Philosophie |publisher=Renouard |year=1819 |page=341 |language=fr |author-link=Voltaire}}) was Frederick II's favorite dish which was frequently served at the royal table between 1772 and 1779.{{Cite book |url=https://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/pageview/4693458 |title=Épître au sieur Noël maître d'hôtel par l'empereur de la Chine |year=1772 |location=Pékin}}{{Cite book |last=Parthey |first=Gustav |url=https://www.deutschestextarchiv.de/book/view/parthey_jugenderinnerungen01_1871/?p=256 |title=Jugenderinnerungen |publisher=Schade |year=1871 |location=Berlin |pages=244–245, t. 1 |language=de}}{{Cite book |last=de Hesse-Cassel |first=Charles |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nR9NAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA127 |title=Mémoires de mon temps |publisher=Schultz |year=1861 |pages=126–127 |language=fr}} It is mentioned in a 137-verse poem by Frederick II, Epître au sieur Noël maître d'hôtel par l'Empereur de la Chine, published in Potsdam in 1772.{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|loc=t. 13|page=98|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/13/98/}}

:I'm not laughing; really, Mr. Noël,

:Your great talents will make you immortal

File:Farci2.JPG,{{Cite book |last=Taylor |first=Marie |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=HjYl18M_-RgC&pg=PA116 |title=Letters to a Young Housekeeper |publisher=Applewood Books |year=2007 |page=116|isbn=9781429010955 }} a dish known throughout Europe, of which Allen Weiss counts over 77,000 variants, among which, according to this author, the most extravagant is Édouard Nignon's "marroné lyonnaise".{{Cite journal |last=Weiss |first=Allen S. |date=2007 |title=Reflections on the Stuffed Cabbage |journal=Gastronomica |volume=7 |issue=1 |pages=70–75 |doi=10.1525/gfc.2007.7.1.70}}{{Cite book |last=Weiss |first=Allen S. |title=Autobiographie dans un chou farci |publisher=Mercure de France |year=2006 |language=fr}}{{Cite book |last1=Nignon |first1=Édouard |title=Éloges de la cuisine française |last2=Guitry |first2=Sacha |publisher=Piazza |year=1933 |language=fr |author-link=Édouard Nignon |author-link2=Sacha Guitry}}]]

Sources differ as to the attribution of the recipe. For Jean-Robert Pitte, André Noël is the inventor. Heidi Driesner suggests that André Noël invented it, but that Frederick II chose the name of the dish.{{cite web|access-date=21 December 2016|date=21 July 2012|first=Heidi|language=de|last=Driesner|title=König, Koch und Kohlkopf: Die Bombe kam aus der Küche|url=http://www.n-tv.de/leute/essen/Die-Bombe-kam-aus-der-Kueche-article6781626.html|website=n-tv}}. Pierre René Auguis proposes a third version: according to him, the king, tasting what Carlo Denina called "infernal cuisine", chose the ingredients, or rather demanded the incorporation of some, and Noël named the dish:In an epistle to his brother Henri, Frédéric II, referring to Boileau's [https://fr.wikisource.org/wiki/Boileau_-_%C5%92uvres_po%C3%A9tiques/Satires/Satire_III Third Satire], ({{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=5, t. 11|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/11/5/}}) evokes a maître d'hôtel ({{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=147, t. 9|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/volz/9/147/}}) who "from the kitchen to the palace drawing room / Leads with great pomp a Luculle supper; / The slightest dish, it is he who entitles it / With a baroque and very mismatched name".({{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=5, t. 11|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/11/5/}})

{{Blockquote|text=He imagined a combination of ingredients so violent as to outrage any other man: Noël protested against such an unhealthy dish, but obeyed repeated orders. The King, delighted with his cooking, spoke up and said: Noël, I have had the glory of creating a delicious dish, and I leave you the honor of naming it. At first, the maître d'hôtel apologized, but then, in a hurry, he replied brusquely: "Call it bombe à la sardanapale". The King laughed and said to the Count of Schullenbourg: "It's out of affection for me that he's getting angry!".{{cite book|date=1823|first1=Pierre René|last1=Auguis|location=Paris|page=225|publisher=Béchet|title=Les Conseils du trône, donnés par Frédéric II, dit Le Grand, aux rois et aux peuples de l'Europe, pour servir de commentaire a tous les congrès présents et futurs|url=https://archive.org/stream/bub_gb_w8EYYJ67CjcC#page/n280/mode/1up/}}}}

According to Friedrich Nicolai, the "bombe de Sardanapale" is a head of cabbage or savoy cabbage, stuffed with spicy meat, olives, capers, anchovies and "other fine ingredients", "cooked or roasted with particular care". Lucien Noël also names bacon, garlic and saffron among the ingredients. Friedrich Nicolai reports having seen the king annotate his "bombe" menus with a "bravo Noël!" on several occasions, and adds that the king ate so much of it that he developed indigestion. The same Nicolai assures that he asked Noël for his recipe and tried to reproduce the dish in his own kitchen, but never succeeded, despite "weeks of preparation and instruction from the cook".

However, a contemporary attempt was made to reproduce the famous recipe on the occasion of the tercentenary of the birth of Frederick II.{{cite web|access-date=21 December 2016|date=3 September 2012|language=de|title=Dithmarscher Kohltage: Bombe de Sardanapale - das Rezept|url=http://www.dithmarschen.de/26-Dithmarscher-Kohltage-Bombe-de-Sardanapale-das-Rezept.php?object=tx%7C2046.1.1&ModID=7&FID=647.3800.1&La=1|website=Kreis Dithmarschen}}.

File:Truffes du Piémont.jpg were a favorite of Frederick II.{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=165, t. 20|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/165/}}{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=181, t. 20|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/181/}}]]

Aware of the king's predilection for truffles, Baron de La Motte Fouqué sent for some dogs from Croatia, trained to find them. Truffles were found in the vicinity of Magdeburg, and Fouqué had a pâté prepared and sent to the king. Noël was then commissioned to make a "pâté du Périgord de Magdebourg"{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=152, t. 20|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/152-o2/}} with these truffles, which he did.{{Harvp|Frédéric II|1846|p=154, t. 20|ps=at http://friedrich.uni-trier.de/fr/oeuvres/20/154-o2/}}{{Cite journal |date=June 21, 1900 |title=Truffes et Pâtés du Périgord |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k950356z/f4.item |journal=L'Avenir illustré}}

In his Memoirs, Charles of Hesse-Kassel wrote about André Noël, whom he met in 1779.{{Harvp|Casanova|Vèze|1931|p=311}} He notes that Frederick II's cook prepared "admirable" soups, dishes "mostly in the French style and some of extraordinary strength", made with "all sorts of extremely delicate things". Among the dishes served to him, in addition to "bombe de Sardanapale", he cites a dish called "arrière-faix de Marie-Antoinette", which he describes as a "very curiously prepared stew".

File:Suédoises aux pommes.jpg (1842).{{Cite book |last=Carême |first=Marie-Antoine |url=https://archive.org/details/b21525407/page/n349/mode/2up?view=theater |title=Le Cuisinier parisien, ou l'art de la cuisine française au xixe siècle |publisher=Renouard |year=1842 |page=305 |language=fr |author-link=Marie-Antoine Carême}}]]

Although no pastry recipe is specifically attributed to André Noël, as fruit played an important role at Frederick II's table,{{Cite book |last=Campbell |first=Thomas |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mvcTAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA305 |title=Frederick the Great, his Court and Times |publisher=Colburn |year=1842 |page=305, t. 2}} he was fond of pastries.{{Cite book |last1=Pietzner |first1=Ronny |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pE56DAAAQBAJ&pg=PT169 |title=Preußen Krimi-Kochbuch: Kochen wie der Alte Fritz |last2=Balkow-Gölitzer |first2=Harry |publisher=be.bra verlag |year=2012 |page=169 |isbn=9783839361009 |language=de}} Pierre Lacam and Antoine Charabot credit André Noël with the invention of the pastry wheel: Wanting to make a frangipane tart without "banding it as usual",Banding a tart means topping it with strips of pasta. ({{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dHwGAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA445 |title=Le Grand Vocabulaire françois |publisher=Panckoucke |year=1768 |page=445}}) he took "a scrap spur from the stables" and made "fluted strips to toast it on and around". The king was pleased, and Noël had "an ironmonger make [...] a roulette wheel fluted on both sides with a handle". This, they say, "toured Germany and Austria", before being adopted in France by the great pastry chef Carême.{{Cite book |last1=Lacam |first1=Pierre |url=https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9735327k/f74.item |title=Le Glacier classique et artistique en France et en Italie |last2=Charabotelle |first2=Antoine |year=1893 |pages=63–64 |language=fr}}{{Cite journal |date=1946 |title=Lait, Beurre, Fromage |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WM6ZAAAAIAAJ&q=no%C3%ABl+roulette+%C3%A0+p%C3%A2tisserie+%C3%A9peron |journal=Hippocrate |language=fr |volume=14-15 |page=211}}{{Cite book |last1=Sender |first1=S. G. |title=La Grande Histoire de la pâtisserie-confiserie française |last2=Derrien |first2=Marcel |publisher=Minerva |year=2003 |page=116 |language=fr}}Carême, for his part, refers to a "round fluted pastry cutter"({{Cite book |last=Carême |first=Marie-Antoine |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R_aqIQ3JKqcC&pg=PA86 |title=Le Pâtissier royal parisien ou Traité élémentaire et pratique de la pâtisserie ancienne et moderne |publisher=Dentu |year=1815 |page=66 |language=fr |author-link=Marie-Antoine Carême}}), also mentioned by Leblanc ({{Cite book |last=Leblanc |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=yoYPAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA15 |title=Manuel du pâtissier |publisher=Librairie encyclopédique de Roret |year=1834 |page=15 |language=fr}}) and distinguished by the latter from the videlle, whose existence had been attested since 1694. ({{Cite book |last=Corneille |first=Thomas |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aG5yKQfQZl0C&pg=PA569 |title=Le Dictionnaire des arts et des sciences |year=1694 |page=569, t. 4 |language=fr |author-link=Thomas Corneille}})

File:La Mettrie by Lavater.tif by Lavater, in 1741, ten years before the disastrous pâté.]]

Casanova reports that

Without Noël [...] or rather without the skill of this culinary artist, the famous Lamettrie, that atheist doctor, would not have died of indigestion; for the pâté he ate to excess at Lord Tyrconel's [Richard-François Talbot, comte de Tyrconnel, French ambassador to the Prussian court] had been made by Noël.

Frederick II's meal menu generally consisted of eight courses,See above, however, the testimony of Charles of Hesse-Kassel. four of which were French-inspired, two Italian-inspired and two other ones.{{Cite book |last=Kappelt |first=Olaf |title=Friedrich der Große: Meine Koch- und Küchengeheimnisse |publisher=Berlin historica |year=2006 |language=de}} Vehse gives the menu for one of his last meals, arranged with Noël on August 5, 1786, twelve days before his death, where the king signified his approval of the dish with a cross (†):

On March 12, 1804, an actor played André Noël at a Berlin masked ball in honor of Queen Louise:

{{Blockquote|text=The spirit of the late Noël, Frederick II's famous cook, appeared. Not to depart from his eternal habit, he didn't appear without his umbrella, from which, to characterize the spirit, a light crêpe dangled. He confessed that one of the principal organs of a good cook, the nose, had brought him out of the underworld, and apostrophized the company with these words: The smell of pheasants and truffles draws me from Paradise. I've come to offer my most humble services for this evening, because there are no good feasts without old Noël.As Raoul Vèze recalls, the appearance of Noël greatly struck his contemporaries. His curious appearance," he says, "aroused attention everywhere. "He had retained the costume fashionable in Paris at the time of Louis XIV, and never appeared without a hand-width gold braid on each piece of his clothing. An enormous hammered wig adorned his head, as did a richly trimmed tricorne}}

André Noël is one of the characters in the historical novel Potsdam und Sans-Souci (1848), written by Eduard Maria Oettinger.{{Cite book |last=Oettinger |first=Eduard Maria |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LOM6AAAAcAAJ |title=Potsdam und Sans-Souci: Historischer Roman |year=1848 |pages=t. 2 p. 6–9, 11–12, 16, 18, 26, 28, 143–144, 146, 157, 201, 212, 214–215, 218: t. 3, p. 31, 33, 35–36, 40–41, 45–47, 60, 125, 127–131, 133, 136–137, 139–140, 142, 150–151, 155–156, 169, 174–175, 185, 188, 192, 198, 200 |language=de |author-link=Eduard Maria Oettinger}} In this novel, set in 1750 at the Château de Sans-Souci, Noël - who goes by the name Jacques Narcisse - reads Le Comte de Gabalis and frequents Voltaire and La Mettrie.

{{reflist}}

• {{cite book |date=1803 |first1=Joseph |language=fr |last1=Berchoux |publisher=Giguet et Michaud |title=La Gastronomie, poëme}}
• {{cite book|author-link1=Giacomo Casanova|date=1931|first1=Giacomo|first2=Raoul|language=fr|last1=Casanova|last2=Vèze|location=Paris|publisher=La Sirène|title=Mémoires|title-link=Histoire de ma vie (Casanova)}}
• {{cite book |date=1846 |language=fr |last1=Frédéric II |publisher=Johann David Erdmann Preuß |title=Œuvres de Frédéric le Grand}}
• {{cite book|author-link1=Jean-Charles Laveaux|date=1789|first1=Jean-Charles|language=fr|last1=Laveaux|publisher=Treuttel|title=Vie de Frédéric II, roi de Prusse, accompagnée de remarques, pièces justificatives et d'un grand nombre d'anecdotes dont la plupart n'ont point encore été publiées}}
• {{cite book|author-link1=Dieudonné Thiébault|date=1804|first1=Dieudonné|language=fr|last1=Thiébault|location=Paris|publisher=Buisson|title=Mes souvenirs de vingt ans de séjour à Berlin, ou Frédéric le Grand : sa famille, sa cour, son gouvernement, son académie, ses écoles, et ses amis littérateurs et philosophes}}

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