Ashima Shiraishi
{{Short description|American rock climber (born 2001)}}
{{use mdy dates|date=October 2022}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Shiraishi (BT0A2525)-3.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Shiraishi at the Climbing World Championships 2018
| name = Ashima Shiraishi
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|2001|4|3}}
| birth_place = New York City, U.S.
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| occupation = Student, rock climber, sport climber
| height = 154 cm
| typeofclimber = Bouldering, Lead climbing
| highestgrade =
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|5.14d/5.15a (9a/+)}}
| highestonsight =
| highestflash =
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|V15}}
| knownfor = Youngest person to climb a {{Climbing grade|5.14d/5.15a (9a/+)}} route, and first female to climb a {{Boulder grade | V15}} boulder
| firstascents =
| namedroutes =
| majorascents =
| website =
| updated = October 31, 2017
|medaltemplates =
{{MedalSport | Women's competition climbing }}
{{MedalCountry | {{USA}} }}
{{MedalCompetition|World Cup}}
{{MedalSilver|2017 Xiamen|Lead}}
}}
Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, Shiraishi Ashima, born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accomplishments include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).{{cite web |url=https://vimeo.com/55184231 |title=Return to the Red |publisher=Vimeo.com |date=2012-12-08 |access-date=2017-08-31 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161002064907/https://vimeo.com/55184231 |archive-date=2016-10-02 |url-status=dead }}
At age 13 she became the second-ever female, and youngest person, to climb a sport route with a difficulty grade of 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+). In 2016, she made the second ascent of Horizon in Mount Hiei, Japan and became the first-ever female to send a {{boulder grade|v15}} boulder.{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-first-female-8c-boulder-with-horizon.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi claims first female 8C boulder with Horizon|author=Planetmountain|date=22 March 2016}}
Biography
Shiraishi was born in New York City on April 3, 2001. She is the only child of Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, who immigrated from Japan in 1978 to New York City. Her father, Hisatoshi "Poppo" Shiraishi, was trained as a dancer in Butoh. Shiraishi grew up in Chelsea, Manhattan.{{cite web | url=https://www.ssense.com/en-us/editorial/culture/year-old-ashima-shiraishi-is-our-favorite-rock-climbing-star | title=Off the Wall with 17-Year-Old Rock Climbing Superstar Ashima Shiraishi | date=December 17, 2018 }} When she was 6 years old, her parents took her to Central Park, where she started climbing at Rat Rock. She later climbed at Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, Brooklyn.
Shiraishi began climbing competitively at age 7, in 2008, and paired with coach Obe Carrion, an accomplished climber. Their partnership ended in 2012, largely due to tensions and disagreements between Carrion and Shiraishi's father, who has coached her since.{{cite web|last=Weil|first=Elizabeth |url=http://www.espn.com/espn/feature/story/_/id/14098651/ashima-shiraishi-become-best-female-climber-world-just-14 |title=Ashima Shiraishi Could Become Best Female Climber in the World at Just 14 |publisher=ESPN |date=2015-12-07 |access-date=2017-08-31}}
At age 8, Shiraishi climbed the classic boulder problem Power of Silence (V10), in Hueco Tanks, Texas. At age 9, she climbed Chablanke (V11/12) and Roger in the Shower (V11) in Hueco Tanks, and several other difficult boulders. At age 10, she climbed Fred Nicole's notorious Crown of Aragorn (V13) also in Hueco Tanks, and is the youngest person ever to climb this grade.{{cite web|last=Fox|first=Amanda |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/10-year-old-repeats-crown-of-aragorn-v13-2/ |title=10 year old repeats crown of aragorn |publisher=Climbing |date=2012-03-21 |access-date=2013-04-16}}
Shiraishi also excelled in lead climbing. At age 11, in October 2012, she climbed Southern Smoke at the Red River Gorge, a grade 5.14c (8c+) sport route, becoming the youngest person to climb a route of this difficulty.{{cite web |last=Climbing |first=DOM |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-southern-smoke-514c/ |title=Ashima Sends Southern Smoke |publisher=DPM Climbing |date=2012-10-26 |access-date=2013-04-16 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130201071825/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/ashima-sends-southern-smoke-514c |archive-date=2013-02-01 |url-status=dead }}
In 2013, Shiraishi continued to excel at both bouldering and lead climbing, adding a 5.14a (Slow Food at Céüse){{cite web|last=Larson|first=Jens |url=http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=28008&ObjectClass=CLS_UserNewsComment&CountryCode=GLOBAL |title=Céüse 8b+ by Mirko (12) and Ashima (11) |publisher=8a.nu |date=2013-07-26 |access-date=2013-10-25}} two more V13s (One Summer in Paradise and Automator){{cite web|last=Parker |first=Chris |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/12-year-olds-mirko-caballero-and-ashima-shiraishi-send-v13-in-magic-wood |title=12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-08-15 |access-date=2013-10-25}}{{cite web |last=Kahn |first=Chris |url=http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/ashima-sends-automator-v13-8b |title=Ashima sends Automator V13/8B |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-09-25 |access-date=2013-10-25 |archive-date=October 23, 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131023125617/http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/ashima-sends-automator-v13-8b |url-status=dead }} and finally two 5.14c's (24 Karats and 50 Words for Pump).{{cite web |last=Hewitt |first=Andrew |url=http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ashima-makes-first-female-ascent-of-24-karats-5-14c-in-the-red |title=Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red |publisher=Rock and Ice |date=2013-10-07 |access-date=2013-10-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131029183550/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ashima-makes-first-female-ascent-of-24-karats-5-14c-in-the-red |archive-date=2013-10-29 |url-status=dead }} In July 2014, she climbed what might be her first V14, Golden Shadow; however, there is a suggestion that Golden Shadow is V13 or V13/V14.{{cite web|url=https://27crags.com/crags/roadcrew/routes/golden-shadow|title=Golden Shadow|work=27 Crags}} She was the second officially recorded female climber (after Tomoko Ogawa) to successfully climb a V14 problem.{{cite web |url=http://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-becomes-second-female-to-climb-v14/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14 |author=Leslie Hittmeier |date = 11 July 2014 |access-date =11 July 2014 |publisher=Climbing Magazine}} On the first day of 2015, she climbed her second V14 (V13/V14), The Swarm, claiming the first female top-out of the problem.{{cite web|url=https://27crags.com/crags/buttermilks/routes/the-swarm|title=The Swarm|work=27 Crags}}{{cite web |url=http://neverstopexploring.com/2015/01/29/ashima-shiraishi-and-paige-claassen-join-the-north-face/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi and Paige Claassen Join The North Face |date=2015-01-29 |access-date=2015-02-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150209224024/http://neverstopexploring.com/2015/01/29/ashima-shiraishi-and-paige-claassen-join-the-north-face/ |archive-date=2015-02-09 |url-status=dead }}{{cite web|url=http://cruxcrush.com/tag/ashima-shiraishi/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi Earns FFA of The Swarm |website=cruxcrush.com |date=2015-01-01 |access-date=2015-02-09}}
At age 13, Shiraishi climbed her first 5.14d (9a), Open Your Mind Direct R1 in Santa Linya. The difficulty of the route had become harder while Shiraishi was attempting it, for a few months earlier a hold had broken off near the top leading to its reclassification as 5.15a.. However, on Christmas Day of 2015, Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Shiraishi's end point to the second top and confirmed Shiraishi's route as a 5.14d (9a).
In the same climbing trip, Shiraishi climbed Ciudad de Dios, making her the youngest athlete to climb a 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+) and the second female climber to climb at this level. The route has been climbed by 6 other athletes, but there is still no definite consensus on whether the grade is 5.14d or 5.15a.
In 2015, 2016, and 2017 Shiraishi won the IFSC World Youth Championships for both Lead and Bouldering in the Female Youth B category.{{Cite news|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/latest-news/item/843-bouldering-double-victories-for-females|title=BOULDERING: Double Victories for Females|access-date=2016-11-15}} In March 2016, at 14 years old, she climbed the boulder problem Horizon (8C/V15) in Mount Hiei, Japan.{{Cite news|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-first-female-8c-boulder-with-horizon.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi claims first female 8C boulder with Horizon|work=PlanetMountain.com|access-date=2017-10-10|language=en}} She is the second person ever to finish this problem. With this achievement she became the first female climber as well as, at the time, the youngest climber to climb this bouldering grade.{{Cite news|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-sets-new-standard/|title=Ashima Shiraishi Climbs First V15|work=Climbing Magazine|access-date=2017-10-10|language=en-us}} (In 2019, Mishka Ishi overtook Ashima as the youngest person to climb 8C/V15.) {{Cite news|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/deeper-look-at-mishka-ishis-landmark-ascent-of-byaku-dou/|title=Deeper Look at 13-Year-Old Mishka Ishi's Ascent of Byaku-Dou|work=Climbing Magazine|access-date=2024-03-28|language=en-us}} A few months later, she climbed Sleepy Rave, another V15 (or V14 according to some), in Grampians National Park, Australia.
In 2017, she was the winner of the female sport category at the USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships (SCS nationals) held in Denver, Colorado, and placed second at the USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals (ABS nationals) to 10-time champion Alex Puccio.{{cite web| last =Yap | first = Audrey Cleo | title=15-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Nabs First Place at USA Climbing Championships| work = NBC News| date = March 14, 2017 |url=https://www.nbcnews.com/news/asian-america/15-year-old-ashima-shiraishi-nabs-first-place-usa-climbing-n733371| access-date=2017-03-19}} In the same year, she started competing in the Climbing World Cup as an adult.
In 2020 Shiraishi wrote How To Solve A Problem, an illustrated children's book with drawings by Yao Xiao.{{cite web |url=https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564542/how-to-solve-a-problem-by-ashima-shiraishi-illustrated-by-yao-xiao/ |title=How to Solve a Problem by Ashima Shiraishi |publisher=Penguin Random House |access-date=2023-09-08}}
She is sponsored by Evolv, Arc’teryx, Clif Bar, Petzl, Coca-Cola Japan, All Nippon Airways and Nikon.
In 2021, she enrolled at University of California, Los Angeles, studying neuroscience and environmental science. {{cite web|url=https://arcteryx.com/us/en/athletes/ashima-shiraishi |title= Arc'teryx Athletes & Ambassadors: Ashima Shiraishi}}
She has been referred to as a "bouldering phenom" by the New York Times{{cite web|last=Doyne|first=Shannon |url=http://learning.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/05/14/ashima-shiraishi-11-bouldering-phenom/ |title=Bouldering Phenom |work=New York Times |date=2012-04-12 |access-date=2013-04-16}} and as a "Gretzky of the granite" by The New Yorker.
Rankings
= World Cup =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2017 |
| align="left" | Lead
| 8 |
= Climbing World Championships =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2015 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2016 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2017 |
| align="left" | Lead
| style="background: Gold;" | 1 | style="background: Gold;" | 1 | style="background: Gold;" | 1 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| style="background: Gold;" | 1 | style="background: Gold;" | 1 | style="background: Gold;" | 1 |
| align="left" | Speed
| - | - | 28 |
| align="left" | Combined
| - | - | style="background: Silver;" | 2 |
= USA Open Championships =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2019 |
| align="left" | Bouldering{{cite web|url=http://www.usaclimbing.org/scoring-and-results/results.htm?CEID=283|title=Bouldering Open National Championship Results}}
| style="background: Gold;" | 1 |
| align="left" | Lead{{cite web|url=http://www.usaclimbing.org/Nationals_Information/Sport___Speed_Nationals/Sport___Speed_Open_Nationals/Results.htm|title=Sport&Speed Open National Championships Results}}
| style="background: Silver;" | 2 |
Notable ascents
= [[Bouldering|Boulder problems]] =
{{Boulder grade|8C}}:
:* Horizon - Mount Hiei (JPN) - 2015
:* Sleepy Rave - Grampians National Park (AUS) - 2016{{Cite news|url=http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2017/ashima-shiraishi-sport-climber-boulderer/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161107014813/http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/adventurers-of-the-year/2017/ashima-shiraishi-sport-climber-boulderer/|url-status=dead|archive-date=November 7, 2016|title=Could This 15-Year-Old Redefine Rock Climbing?|date=2016-11-03|access-date=2017-10-12}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/sleepy-rave|title=HardClimbs.info {{!}} Ascents for Sleepy Rave|website=www.hardclimbs.info|access-date=2017-10-12}}
{{Boulder grade|8B+}}:
:* Jade - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 2021.{{Cite web |url=https://gripped.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-sends-jade-v14-in-colorado/ |title=Ashima Shiraishi Sends Jade V14 in Colorado |date=August 20, 2021 |access-date=2021-08-20}}
:* Phenomena - Hinokage (JPN) - 2015
:* Nuclear War - New York City (USA) - 2015
:* Golden Shadow - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2014
{{Boulder grade|8B}}:
:* Wheel of Chaos - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 2021
:* Mana - Grampians National Park (AUS) - 2016
:* Terre de Sienne - Hueco Tanks (USA) - 2015
:* The Swarm - Bishop (USA) - 2015 - Some say this may be 8B/+(V13/14).
:* Blood Meridian - Bishop (USA) - 2014
:* Beta Move - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2014
:* The Automator - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 2013
:* One Summer in Paradise - Magic Wood (Switzerland) - 2013
:* Fragile Steps - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2012
:* Steady Plums Direct - Topside (ZAF) - 2012
:* Crown of Aragorn - Hueco Tanks (USA) - 2012 - Youngest person to climb the 8B (V13) difficulty.{{Cite web |url=http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/3rd-v13-ashima-shiraishi |title=3rd V13 for Ashima Shiraishi - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles |access-date=2016-12-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120830083811/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/3rd-v13-ashima-shiraishi |archive-date=2012-08-30 |url-status=dead }}
Other Bouldering Achievements:
:* The Shining - {{Boulder grade|V12/13}}
:* Lethal Design - {{Boulder grade|V12}} - flash
:* Chablanke - V11/V12 (8a/8a+)
:* Roger in the Shower - {{Boulder grade|V11}}
:* Power of Silence - {{Boulder grade|V10}}
:* Ashimandala - {{Boulder grade|V8}} - First Ascent (Age 7)
= [[Redpoint (climbing)|Redpointed]] routes =
9a or 9a+ (5.14d or 5.15a):
:* Ciudad de Dios - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 23, 2015 - First female ascent. The route has been repeated by several others, but they have not reached consensus about its grade
{{climbing grade|9a}}:
:* Open Your Mind Direct R1 - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 17, 2015 - First female ascent. The route was initially graded {{climbing grade|9a}}, but later a hold broke off leading to speculation that the route might have become harder, possibly 9a+. Shiraishi was the first climber who climbed it after the hold had broken. However, in December 2015 Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Shiraishi's end point to a higher top and confirmed the initial {{climbing grade|9a}} rating for Shiraishi's route.
{{climbing grade|8c+}}:
:* Southern Smoke - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012
:* Lucifer - Red River Gorge (USA) - September 2012
:* 24 Karats - Red River Gorge (USA) - October 2013
:* 50 Words for Pump - Red River Gorge (USA) - October 2013
:* La Fabela - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014 - First female ascent
{{climbing grade|8c}}:
:* Digital system - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014
:* Rollito Sharma extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 2014
See also
References
{{Reflist|refs=
{{Cite magazine |last=Paumgarten|first=Nick| title=The Wall Dancer: Ashima Shiraishi's route to the top| url=https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/01/11/the-wall-dancer| magazine=The New Yorker |publisher=Condé Nast |issue=2016–01–11}}
{{Cite web|title= Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint|url = http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40227|website= planetmountain.com|access-date= 2015-04-08}}
{{cite web|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69608|title=Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+, by Ashima|publisher=UK Climbing|date=23 March 2015|access-date=7 April 2015}}
{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/mar/22/rock-climbing-ashima-shiraishi-breaking-record-spain|title=Reaching new heights: girl ascends to rock-climbing royalty at only 13 |publisher=Guardian|date=22 March 2015|access-date=24 March 2015}}
{{cite web|last1=Fernández|first1=Isaac|title=Edu Marín hace 'Open your mind direct' 9a+: "2015 ha sido uno de mis mejores años"|url= http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-hace-open-your-mind-direct-9a-plus--2015-ha-sido-uno-de-mis-mejores-anos|website= Desnivel.com|date=December 24, 2015 |access-date= 1 February 2016}}
{{Cite news|title= Ashima Shiraishi, 11, Conquers Difficult Bouldering Climbs|url= https://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/13/sports/ashima-shiraishi-11-conquers-difficult-bouldering-climbs.html|newspaper= The New York Times|date= 2012-05-12|access-date= 2015-04-21|issn= 0362-4331|first= Julie|last= Bosman}}
{{Cite web|url=http://www.outsideonline.com/news-from-the-field/Shiraishi-Becomes-First-Female-to-Climb-a-515.html|title=Shiraishi Becomes First Female to Climb a 5.15|date=18 March 2015|publisher=Outside On Line|access-date=24 March 2015}}
{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ashima-shiraishi-climbs-9a9a-a-santa-linya-in-spain.html|title=Ashima Shiraishi climbs 9a/9a+ at Santa Linya in Spain|publisher=Planet Mountain}}
{{Cite news|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70605/ashima_repeats_sleepy_rave_8c|title=Ashima repeats Sleepy rave, ~8C|access-date=2017-10-10|publisher=UK Climbing}}
{{Cite web|url=https://www.hardclimbs.info/ascents/ashima-shiraishi-sleepy-rave|title=Ascent of Sleepy Rave by Ashima Shiraishi|website= hardclimbs.info|access-date=2017-10-10}}
{{Cite news|url=http://onbouldering.com/8b-senders-ladies-club/|title=8B Senders Ladies Club|date=2013-08-19|work= OnBouldering.com|access-date= 2017-10-12|language=en-US}}
}}
External links
- {{IFSC profile|id=1812|old_id=13960|archive=20200711041438}}
- {{Instagram|ashimashiraishi}}
{{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Shiraishi, Ashima}}
Category:Sportspeople from New York City
Category:21st-century American sportswomen
Category:American sportspeople of Japanese descent
Category:American rock climbers
Category:American female climbers