Aurora James

{{short description|Canadian creative director, activist, poet and fashion designer}}

{{Infobox artist

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| name = Aurora James

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| image =Aurora James in at The Museum of Modern Art.png|thumb|Aurora James in at The Museum of Modern Art in 2024

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| birth_date = July 12th {{birth year and age|1984}}

| birth_place = Guelph, Ontario, Canada

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| known_for = Fashion design

| notable_works = 15 Percent Pledge

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| awards = 2020 The Bloomberg 50
2021 Time 100

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| website = {{URL|https://brothervellies.com/}}

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Aurora James is a Canadian creative director, activist, and fashion designer. In 2013, she founded the fashion label Brother Vellies, with the goal of promoting traditional African design practices and techniques. In 2020, James founded the 15 Percent Pledge as a non-profit organization to support Black-owned businesses. Her memoir Wildflower was released in 2023.

Early life

James was born to a Ghanaian father and a Canadian mother in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.{{cite news |last1=Okwudo |first1=Janelle |title=Aurora James on Fashion, Feminism, and the Fifteen Percent Pledge |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/aurora-james-september-issue-2020-15-percent-pledge |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=VOGUE |date=August 26, 2020}} Her childhood was split between Canada and Jamaica.{{cite news |last1=Holman |first1=Jordyn |title=Aurora James, the Founder Seeking Shelf Space |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2020-12-03/aurora-james-founder-of-fifteen-percent-pledge-foundation-bloomberg-50-2020 |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg |date=December 7, 2020}} In 2010, James relocated to Los Angeles and later to New York City.

Career and brand

After traveling across Africa{{Cite news|last=Zarrella|first=Katharine K.|date=June 12, 2020|title=Meet Aurora James, a Designer Advocating for Black-Owned Businesses|language=en-US|work=Wall Street Journal|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/meet-aurora-james-a-designer-advocating-for-black-owned-businesses-11591977188|access-date=August 17, 2018|issn=0099-9660}} in 2011, James spent the next few years experimenting with design, testing designs at local markets in New York and working with various artisan groups. She launched Brother Vellies in January 2013, started with $3,500 in savings, with a goal of promoting the work of African artisans. The first formal Brother Vellies collection was produced for the spring 2014 season and was created entirely with shoemakers in South Africa. James later expanded to working in other countries within Africa and beyond, including Mexico and Honduras, to continue producing desert boots, shoes, slippers, and sandals.{{cite web |last1=Milch |first1=Nora |title=Brother Vellies' Aurora James Just Wants Women to be Comfortable in their Shoes |url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/brother-vellies-aurora-james-accessories-interview/ |website=W|date=March 25, 2016 |access-date=16 December 2020}}

In 2015, James began producing handbags for Brother Vellies, the same year she won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize.

In 2020, James was featured on the cover of the September issue of Vogue magazine, in a portrait by Jordan Casteel.{{cite news |last1=Laing |first1=Sarah |title=Why Aurora James being on Vogue's September cover is so significant |url=https://www.thestar.com/life/fashion_style/2020/08/25/why-aurora-james-being-on-vogues-september-cover-is-so-significant.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=The Toronto Star |date=August 25, 2020}}{{cite news |last1=Kazanjian |first1=Dodie |title=The Making of Vogue's September 2020 Covers |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/september-issue-cover-2020-global-hope |access-date=25 December 2020 |work=Vogue |date=August 25, 2020}}

In 2021 after James' dress with a message "Tax the Rich” across the back in big red lettering was worn by Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez at the 2021 Met Gala{{cite news |last1=Testa |first1=Jessica |title=A.O.C.’s Met Gala Designer Explains Her ‘Tax the Rich’ Dress |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/09/16/style/aoc-designer-tax-the-rich-dress.html |access-date=12 February 2022 |work=The New York Times |date=September 22, 2021}}{{cite news |last1=Abel |first1=Katie |title=Everyone's Talking About AOC's 'Tax the Rich' Dress, But Aurora James' Designs Have Been Making Powerful Statements for Years |url=https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/everyone-talking-aoc-tax-rich-155706167.html |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=Footwear News |publisher=Yahoo News |date=September 14, 2021}}{{cite news |title=The Best Met Gala 2021 Red Carpet Photos |url=https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2021/09/13/style/met-gala-photos-red-carpet/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=The New York Times |date=September 13, 2021 |quote=Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York sent a message with her gown by Aurora James. The back of her dress was emblazoned with the words "Tax the Rich" in red. Her bag had the same phrase.}}{{cite news |last1=Segran |first1=Elizabeth |title=Meet the visionary designer behind AOC's Tax the Rich dress |url=https://www.fastcompany.com/90676272/meet-the-visionary-designer-behind-aocs-tax-the-rich-dress |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=Fast Company |date=September 14, 2021}} several news outlets reported on the tax debt of James' company, totaling six figures, along with multiple warrants issued across various states. These reports ignited controversy and accusations of hypocrisy regarding James' political stance. {{cite news |last1=Levine |first1=Jon |last2=Boniello |first2=Kathianne |title=AOC’s ‘Tax the Rich’ dress designer Aurora James owes debt in multiple states |url=https://nypost.com/2021/09/18/aocs-tax-the-rich-dress-designer-aurora-james-is-a-tax-deadbeat/ |access-date=14 September 2024 |work=New York Post |date=18 September 2021}}

In 2022, she was unanimously elected as a Vice Chair of the CFDA.{{Cite web |title=CFDA |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-cfda-board-elects-new-vice-chairs-treasurer-secretary |access-date=2024-02-03 |website=cfda.com}}

In 2023, James was presented the Honorary Clio Award.{{Cite web |date=2023-06-12 |title=Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James |url=https://clios.com/content/creativity-conversation-qa-2023-honorary-clio-award-recipient-aurora-james |access-date=2024-02-14 |website=Clios |language=en}}{{Cite web |date=2023-06-12 |title=Honorary Award Recipient |url=https://clios.com/the-muse/clio-awards-female-quotient-honoray-award-presentation |access-date=2024-02-14 |website=Clios |language=en}}{{Citation |title=Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54gDTivwDd0 |access-date=2024-02-14 |language=en}}

Brother Vellies has been worn by activists, celebrities, artists and musicians, including Beyoncé, Solange Knowles,{{Cite news|last1=Salam|first1=Maya|last2=Bromwich|first2=Jonah Engel|last3=Safronova|first3=Valeriya|last4=Shutler|first4=Natalie|date=2018-06-28|title=Met Gala 2018: See Photos From the Red Carpet|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/07/fashion/met-gala-red-carpet.html|access-date=2020-08-17|issn=0362-4331}} Nicki Minaj,{{cite news |last1=Ho |first1=Jason |title=How Canadian designer Aurora James is persuading retailers to support Black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/aurora-james-interview-the-national-1.5804670 |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CBC News |date=November 19, 2020}} and Elaine Welteroth.{{cite news |last1=Laura |first1=Regensdorf |title=Aurora James on This Week's Big Win for the 15 Percent Pledge and Black-Owned Brands |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2020/06/aurora-james-15-percent-pledge-sephora-black-owned-brands |access-date=17 December 2020 |magazine=Vanity Fair |date=June 12, 2020}}

The 15 Percent Pledge

{{Main|15 Percent Pledge}}

In 2020, in the wake of the murder of George Floyd and the wave of Black Lives Matter activism that followed, James launched an initiative called the 15 Percent Pledge,{{cite web |last1=Kent |first1=Sarah |last2=Lieber |first2=Chavie |title=Designer Aurora James Calls on Retailers to Commit to Black-Owned Businesses |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/george-floyd-minneapolis-black-fashion-designers-aurora-james |website=Business of Fashion |date=May 31, 2020 |access-date=16 December 2020}}{{cite news |last1=Robinson |first1=Roxanne |title=Aurora James, The Designer Behind The #15PercentPledge, On Supporting Black-Owned Businesses Long Term |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/roxannerobinson/2020/06/16/aurora-james-the-designer-behind-the-15percentpledge-on-supporting-black-owned-businesses-long-term/?sh=6fa1492da34d |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Forbes |date=June 16, 2020}} with an Instagram post on May 29 that Vogue writes "immediately went viral and resulted in an outpouring of interest." The 15 Percent Pledge Foundation was then created as a non-profit organization to urge major retailers to commit 15 percent of their shelf-space to Black-owned businesses.{{cite web |last1=Rougeau |first1=Naomi |title=How Aurora James Took the 15 Percent Pledge From an Instagram Post to a 501(c)(3) |url=https://www.elle.com/fashion/a33966286/aurora-james-15-percent-pledge/ |website=Elle |access-date=16 December 2020 |date=September 15, 2020}} The foundation offers large corporations accountability and strategy suggestions{{cite web |title=Interested in taking the Pledge? |url=https://www.15percentpledge.org/pledge |website=Fifteen Percent Pledge |access-date=16 December 2020}} as well as consulting services. The goal of the foundation is to advocate on behalf of Black-owned businesses and to build generational wealth in Black communities;{{cite news |last1=Duffy |first1=Clare |title=15% Pledge calls on Target, Whole Foods and other retailers to dedicate shelf space to black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cnn.com/2020/06/07/business/15-percent-pledge-black-owned-businesses/index.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CNN Business |date=June 7, 2020}} according to its website, the initiative "was born from seeing multiple acts of social injustice and police brutality in the United States, with a lack of corporate accountability for the systemic issues at play."{{cite web |title=FAQ for businesses |url=https://www.15percentpledge.org/faq |website=Fifteen Percent Pledge |access-date=16 December 2020}}

Time magazine writes that James wanted to "find a way that companies could make a tangible change", and "from there, the 15 Percent Pledge was born." Cam Wolf writes in GQ magazine that "James is careful to note that the 15 Percent Pledge is not the only solution", and that James said, "This is a really tough time for everyone, and people shopping is by no means going to ease the pain of the lives that we have lost ... There are also a lot of other things that we need people to be doing, like donating to bail funds."{{Cite web|last=Wolf|first=Cam|title=This Initiative Could Direct Billions of Dollars to Black-Owned Businesses|url=https://www.gq.com/story/15-percent-pledge|access-date=2021-03-22|website=GQ|language=en-us}}

Memoir

In May 2023, James' memoir Wildflower was released.{{cite news |title=WILDFLOWER |url=https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/aurora-james/wildflower-james/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=Kirkus Reviews |date=March 1, 2023 |language=en}} According to a review in Kirkus Reviews, "Throughout the text, James is vulnerable and frank, cultivating a narrative voice that is both intimate and captivating; on the line level, her language is impressively lyrical." The review also called Wildflower, "A well-written, profoundly empathetic memoir from an entrepreneur with a very bright future."{{Cite book |url=https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/aurora-james/wildflower-james/ |title=WILDFLOWER {{!}} Kirkus Reviews |language=en}}

Bianca Betancourt writes in Harper's Bazaar, "James doesn't hold back. She movingly intertwines memories of her youth with deeply honest accounts of the life she leads today as a designer and entrepreneur."{{cite news |last1=Betancourt |first1=Bianca |title=Aurora James Has Never Claimed to Be Perfect |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a43723428/aurora-james-wildflower-memoir-interview/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=Harper's Bazaar |date=9 May 2023}}

Cat Woods writes in Observer, "While reading Wildflower, it can sometimes be hard to see how James conjured up the resolve and determination to carry on in an industry notoriously defined by privilege, exploitation and savage competition."{{cite news |last1=Woods |first1=Cat |title=Aurora James Is Breaking the Fairytale Founder Memoir Mold |url=https://observer.com/2023/05/aurora-james-memoir-wildflower-review/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=Observer |date=8 May 2023}} In Fashionista, Andrea Bossi writes, "Sure, a fashion lover can appreciate how James takes the reader through learning about the footwear trade, but the book speaks to a broader audience. Specifically, it appeals to anyone who has ever questioned their path and purpose, especially women and women of color."{{cite news |last1=Bossi |first1=Andrea |title=There's Something for Everyone to Learn in Aurora James' Memoir |url=https://fashionista.com/2023/05/aurora-james-wildflower-memoir-book-interview |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=Fashionista |date=22 May 2023 |language=en}}

Awards and honors

  • 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund – Winner{{Cite web|last=Codinha|first=Alessandra|title=Breaking News! Brother Vellies, Gypsy Sport, and Jonathan Simkhai to Share 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Win|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/2015-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-winners-brother-vellies-gypsy-sport-jonathan-simkhai|access-date=2020-08-17|website=Vogue|language=en-us}}
  • 2016 Inductee to the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA){{cite web |title=Aurora James Profile |url=https://cfda.com/members/profile/aurora-james-brother-vellies |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020}}
  • 2016 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Accessory Design – Nominee{{cite web |title=The 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees and Honorees |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2016-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 17, 2016}}
  • 2016 Vogue Talents Award – Winner
  • 2016-2018 CFDA Fashion Incubator Member
  • 2018 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Nominee{{cite web |title=The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees & Honorees Are In! |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2018-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees-are-in |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 15, 2018}}
  • 2019 Planned Parenthood Influencer Award{{cite web |last1=Greene |first1=Greg |title=Honoring the Black Women Who Stand Up for Reproductive Health Care |url=https://www.plannedparenthoodaction.org/blog/honoring-the-black-women-who-stand-up-for-reproductive-health-care |website=Planned Parenthood Blog |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=September 21, 2019}}
  • 2019 CAFA Award: International Canadian Designer Award – Winner{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=|title=2019 International Canadian Designer Award Recipient – Aurora James|url=https://www.cafawards.ca/2019/03/18/official-2019-international-canadian-designer-award-recipient/|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200805214250/https://www.cafawards.ca/2019/03/18/official-2019-international-canadian-designer-award-recipient/ |archive-date=2020-08-05 |access-date=2020-08-17|website=www.cafawards.ca}}
  • 2019, Crain's New York Business 40 Under 40{{Cite web|date=2019-03-24|title=40 Under 40 - Aurora James|url=https://www.crainsnewyork.com/awards/40-under-40-2019-aurora-james|access-date=2020-08-17|website=Crain's New York Business|language=en}}
  • 2020 British Fashion Award, People{{cite news |title=The Fashion Award 2020 Winners Share Their Hopes for the Future of the Fashion Industry |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/the-fashion-award-2020-winners |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=Vogue |date=December 3, 2020}}{{cite news |last1=Marriott |first1=Hannah |title=British Fashion Awards: move online heralds different set of priorities |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/dec/03/british-fashion-awards-move-online-heralds-different-set-of-priorities |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=The Guardian |date=December 3, 2020}}
  • 2020 The Bloomberg 50{{cite news |title=Aurora James Brings the Fifteen Percent Pledge to Store Shelves |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/videos/2020-12-04/aurora-james-brings-the-fifteen-percent-pledge-to-store-shelves-video |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg BusinessWeek |date=December 4, 2020}}{{cite news |title=The Bloomberg 50 |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/features/2020-bloomberg-50/ |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg BusinessWeek |date=December 7, 2020}}
  • 2020 Footwear News Person of the Year{{cite news |last1=Butler-Young |first1=Sheena |title=FNAA Person of the Year Aurora James Is Fashion's Vitamin Supplement — Why It Needs Her Bold, Brilliant Energy Daily |url=https://footwearnews.com/2020/business/awards/aurora-james-fnaa-2020-person-year-2-1203080870/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=Footwear News |date=December 7, 2020}}
  • 2021 Time 100, Time{{'}}s annual list of the 100 most influential people in the world{{cite web |last1=Dewberry |first1=Sarah |title=TIME unveils list of 100 most influential people of 2021 |url=https://www.ksby.com/entertainment/time-unveils-list-of-100-most-influential-people-of-2021 |website=KSBY |access-date=November 11, 2021 |language=en |date=September 16, 2021}}
  • 2021 Founder's Award at the CFDA Awards{{Cite web |date=2021-11-11 |title=Christopher John Rogers And Emily Bode-Aujla Take Top Honora At The CFDA Awards – See All The Winners |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/2021-cfda-award-winners |access-date=2024-02-23 |website=British Vogue |language=en-GB}}{{Cite web |date=2021-11-11 |title=All of the CFDA Fashion Award Winners |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a38223879/cfda-fashion-awards-2021-winners/ |access-date=2024-02-23 |website=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-US}}
  • 2022 Glamour Woman of the Year{{cite web |last1=Ogunnaike |first1=Lola |title=With the Fifteen Percent Pledge, Aurora James Is Offering Corporate America a Deal |url=https://www.glamour.com/story/aurora-james-glamour-women-of-the-year-2022 |website=Glamour |access-date=August 2, 2023 |language=en |date=October 25, 2022}}
  • 2022 Vice Chair of the CFDA
  • 2023 CAFA Vanguard Award{{Cite web |date=2023-10-16 |title=Inside the 10th Annual Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards |url=https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/10th-annual-canadian-arts-and-fashion-awards |access-date=2024-02-03 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}

References

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