Avon Gorge

File:Bristol ag from csb 041004.jpg on the right.]]

The gorge cuts through a ridge mainly of limestone, with some sandstone. This particular ridge runs from Clifton to Clevedon, 10 miles (16 km) away on the Bristol Channel coast, although limestone is found throughout the Bristol area. The fossil shells and corals indicate that the limestone formed in shallow tropical seas in the Carboniferous, 350 million years ago.{{cite web|url=http://www.goodquarry.com/documents/GeoandBiolft.pdf |title=Geology and biodiversitymaking the links |publisher=English Nature |access-date=10 September 2008 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090319215806/http://www.goodquarry.com/documents/GeoandBiolft.pdf |archive-date=19 March 2009 }} For a long time it was unclear what caused the Avon to cut through the limestone ridge, rather than run southwest through the Ashton Vale towards Weston-super-Mare. However, Bristol was at the southern edge of glaciation during the Anglian ice age, and it has been suggested that ice blocked the river's natural route through Ashton Vale to the west.River Avon Trail, '[http://www.riveravontrail.org.uk/avongorgewildlife.html Avon Gorge]'. Accessed 5 May 2006.{{cite book|last=Haslett|first=Simon K.|title=Somerset Landscapes: Geology and landforms|year=2010|publisher=Blackbarn Books|location=Usk|isbn=978-1-4564-1631-7|pages=108–112}} At the Clifton Suspension Bridge the Gorge is more than {{convert|700|ft|m|0}} wide and {{convert|300|ft|m|0}} deep.{{cite web|url=http://www.avongorge.org.uk/wildlife.php?ContentID=11|title=Geology|publisher=Avon Gorge and Downs|access-date=11 September 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070918221118/http://www.avongorge.org.uk/wildlife.php?ContentID=11|archive-date=18 September 2007|url-status=dead}}

In the 18th century the gorge was quarried to produce building stone for the city. Stone was taken by boat into the floating harbour. In the 19th century celestine was discovered in Leigh Court estate and the Miles family authorised quarrying. Between 1880 and 1920 Bristol was producing 90% of the world's celestine, but the enterprise did not last long into the 20th century.C.G. Down, 1968. "[http://www.irsociety.co.uk/Archives/22/Paradise.htm Paradise Bottom]." The Industrial Railway Record No. 22 – p352-354 Bristol Diamonds, brilliant quartz crystals found in geodes in dolomitic conglomerate in the gorge,{{cite journal|last=Savage|first=Robert J. G.|date=Spring 1989|title=Natural History of the Goldney Garden Grotto, Clifton, Bristol|journal=Garden History|pages=1–40|publisher=The Garden History Society|location=Reading, England|volume=17|issue=1|jstor=1586914|issn=0307-1243|doi=10.2307/1586914}} were popular souvenirs for visitors to the Hotwells spa in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.{{Cite book |url= https://archive.org/stream/bristolitsfamous00hutt/bristolitsfamous00hutt_djvu.txt

|title=Bristol and its famous associations|last=Hutton|first=Stanley|publisher=J. W. Arrowsmith |location=Bristol|year=1907

}} Quarries on the Bristol side of the gorge are now popular with climbers and are a habitat for Peregrine falcons and other wildlife.

File:Clifton.bridge.arp.750pix.jpg.]]

The steep walls of the gorge support some rare fauna and flora, including species unique to the gorge. There are a total of 24 rare plant species and two unique trees: the Bristol and Wilmotts's whitebeams.BBC Bristol, "[https://www.bbc.co.uk/bristol/content/nature/02.shtml The Avon Gorge – Bristol's Great Glacier?]" Accessed 5 May 2006. Other notable plants include Bristol rock cress, Bristol onion, spiked speedwell,{{cite web|url=http://www.avongorge.org.uk/documents/adg_leaflet_text_only.doc|title=Discover the wildlife of the Avon Gorge & Downs|last=Leivers|first=Mandy|publisher=Bristol Zoo|access-date=10 September 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090319215806/http://www.avongorge.org.uk/documents/adg_leaflet_text_only.doc|archive-date=19 March 2009|url-status=dead}} autumn squill and honewort.Myles (2000), page 161 Because of its steep sides, there are many parts of the gorge on which trees cannot grow, making way for smaller plants. The gorge is also home to rare invertebrate species.Avon Wildlife Trust, "[http://wil12391.hostinguk.com/people/avon_habitat.htm The wildlife and habitats of Avon] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110712221538/http://wil12391.hostinguk.com/people/avon_habitat.htm |date=12 July 2011 }}." Accessed 24 March 2009. The gorge has a microclimate around 1 degree warmer than the surrounding land. The steep south-west facing sides receive the afternoon sunlight, but are partially sheltered from the prevailing winds. When winds come from the Bristol Channel in the north west they may be funnelled into the gorge, creating harsh and wet conditions.

The steep gorge walls make an ideal habitat for peregrine falcons, with a plentiful supply of food nearby in the form of pigeons and gulls. Peregrines have a history of nesting in the gorge, but having become rare in the British Isles they did not breed and were rarely seen in the gorge after the 1930s. In 1990 Peregrines returned to the gorge, and have successfully bred in most of the following years. On warm days a strong uplift forms in the gorge, on which birds of prey soar while hunting. The gorge also houses large populations of Jackdaw and horseshoe bats, both of which find homes in the caves and bridge buttresses.

File:Danby AshtonMeadow.jpg by Francis Danby, 1822]]

Due to its geology and ecology, an area of {{convert|155.4|ha|acre|1}} of the gorge and surrounding woodland has been protected as a biological and geological Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), the original notification taking place in 1952. The site may in future be protected as a Special Area of Conservation under the European Commission Habitats Directive (92/43/EEC).{{cite web|url=http://www.avongorge.org.uk/wildlife.php|title=Woldlife and Geology|publisher=Avon Gorge and Downs|access-date=11 September 2008|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081010211609/http://www.avongorge.org.uk/wildlife.php|archive-date=10 October 2008|url-status=dead}} The Leigh Woods side of the gorge is largely owned by the National Trust. The Downs on the city side of the gorge are owned by Bristol City Council and managed as a large public park. The gorge side is protected in partnership with Bristol Zoo, WWF and English Nature. The council's management of the gorge involves balancing the need to protect its ecology with recreational uses such as rock climbing.

Green-flowered helleborine is found on the western side of the gorge, in a wooded area next to the towpath below Leigh Woods.Myles (2000) page 249 lady orchid was discovered here in 1990, in Nightingale Valley on the west side of the Gorge; there is some doubt as to whether this was a wild plant or an introduction.Myles (2000) page 251 fly orchid and bee orchid are found in the gorge, along with their hybrid.Myles (2000) page 252 A single plant of lesser meadow-rue is present in the gorge.Myles (2000) page 68 Bristol rock-cress occurs here, and at nearby Penpole Point; in the gorge, there are about 3,000 plants on the Bristol side, and about 2,000 below Leigh Woods.Myles (2000), page 101 Hutchinsia is found on both sides of the gorge.Myles (2000), page 102 Bloody crane's-bill grows on the Bristol side of the gorge, where it is believed to be native.Myles (2000), page 155 Little robin occurs on both sides of the gorge.Myles (2000), page 156 Spiked speedwell grows on both sides of the gorge: the first British record of this plant was from the gorge, in 1641.Myles (2000), page 186

File:St Vincents Rocks Clifton.jpg

The gorge area was inhabited at least as early as the Iron Age, probably by the Dobunni tribe. In Leigh Woods above Nightingale Valley, a steep dry valley beside the suspension bridge, is Stokeleigh Camp, one of three Iron Age hill forts in the area.{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/bristol/content/nature/04.shtml|title=Avon Gorge|work=BBC Bristol — Nature|publisher=BBC|access-date=10 September 2008}} Stokeleigh was occupied from 3BC to 1AD, and was also used in the Middle Ages. The camp was protected on two sides by the cliff faces of the gorge and Nightingale Valley, and was also protected by earthworks, and is now a scheduled ancient monument.{{cite web|url=http://pastscape.org.uk/hob.aspx?hob_id=198375 |title=Stokeleigh Camp |work=Pastscape |publisher=English Nature |access-date=10 September 2008 }} A second hill fort was situated across Nightingale Valley, but has since been built on, and bridge road cuts through it. The third hill fort was situated on the opposite side of the gorge, in what is now observatory green. Archaeology, plus the configuration of the three forts, suggest they played a role in defending the gorge.

File:avon gorge and cave arp.jpg, looking towards the city of Bristol. The people are looking out of the Giants Cave view point on the gorge face.]]

During the Middle Ages and Industrial Revolution the area which now forms The Downs was used as common grazing land. It was mined for lead, calamine, iron and limestone, and became home to a windmill which produced snuff from the tobacco which had become one of the city's principal imports.{{cite web |url=http://www.bristol.gov.uk/ccm/content/Environment-Planning/Parks-and-open-spaces/parks/the-downs.en;jsessionid=F93D58ED14D151A80F09F63AA11C7A4E.tcwwwaplaws1 |title=The Downs |work=Environment — Parks and Open spaces |publisher=Bristol City Council |access-date=29 November 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091107001630/http://www.bristol.gov.uk/ccm/content/Environment-Planning/Parks-and-open-spaces/parks/the-downs.en |archive-date=7 November 2009 |url-status=dead}} In 1777 the windmill burnt out in a storm, and the building was converted into the observatory, which houses a camera obscura.{{cite web | title=The Observatory | work=Bristol link | url=http://www.bristol-link.co.uk/history/observatory.htm | access-date=3 May 2007| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20070615171551/http://www.bristol-link.co.uk/history/observatory.htm| archive-date= 15 June 2007 | url-status= live}} In the 18th and 19th centuries Bristol's economy boomed and Clifton became a desirable place to live. Mansion houses were built overlooking the gorge, but after grazing was stopped, trees grew and obscured the view from these mansions. In the Victorian era, with houses creeping further onto the Downs, an Act of Parliament was passed to protect them as a park for the people of Bristol. In 1754 a bridge to span the gorge was proposed, but it was nearly 80 years before work began on Isambard Kingdom Brunel's Clifton Suspension Bridge, and a further 30 years before it was completed.Vaughan, Adrian: Isambard Kingdom Brunel — Engineering Knight Errant, John Murray, 1991, {{ISBN|0-7195-5748-8}}.Beckett (1980). Chapter 6: "Bridges". Today the bridge is perhaps the best known landmark in Bristol.

Throughout Bristol's history the gorge has been an important transport route, carrying the River Avon, major roads and two railways. It is the gateway to Bristol Harbour, and provided protection against storms or attack. The Bristol Channel and Avon estuary have a very high tidal range of {{convert|15|m|ft}},{{cite web | url= http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/commondata/acrobat/severnpositionmay2006_1508223.pd| work= UK Environment Agency | title= Severn Estuary Barrage | date= 31 May 2006 | access-date= 3 September 2007 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070930155720/http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/commondata/acrobat/severnpositionmay2006_1508223.pd |archive-date = 30 September 2007}} second only to Bay of Fundy in Eastern Canada;{{cite book | title= Extreme Depositional Environments: Mega End Members in Geologic Time

| first= Marjorie A.| last= Chan |author2=Archer, Allen William | location= Boulder, Colorado | isbn= 0-8137-2370-1 | publisher= Geological Society of America | year= 2003 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=b3_1Ry0gDqEC&pg=PA152&lpg=PA152&dq=bristol+channel#PPA151,M1 | page= 151 }}{{cite web | url= http://www.bbc.co.uk/bristol/content/articles/2005/07/04/bristolchannel_feature.shtml | title= Coast: Bristol Channel | work= BBC | access-date= 27 August 2007 }} and the gorge is relatively narrow and meandering, making it notoriously difficult to navigate. Several vessels have grounded in the gorge including the SS Demerara soon after her launch in 1851, the schooner Gipsy in 1878, the steam tug Black Eagle in 1861 and the Llandaff City.{{cite web|title=Wrecks on the River Avon|url=http://www.brh.org.uk/site/articles/wrecks-on-the-river-avon/|publisher=Bristol Radical History Group|access-date=3 March 2013}} The phrase "ship shape and Bristol fashion" arises from when the main harbour in Bristol was tidal, the bottom of which was rocky. If ships were not of stout construction then they would simply break up as the tide receded, hence the phrase.[http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/ship-shape%20and%20Bristol%20fashion.html Ship-shape and Bristol fashion on www.phrases.org.uk] (retrieved 20 August 2007)

File:Bristol ag railway tunnel 02.jpg runs through a short tunnel under the bridge buttress.]]

A railway, the Bristol Port Railway, was built through the gorge on the east side from Hotwells to Avonmouth between 1863 and 1865. The Portishead Railway was opened on the west side in 1867. The section of the Bristol Port Railway between Hotwells and Sneyd Park junction was closed in 1922, when construction of a major road through the gorge, the Portway, was started. The Portway was opened in 1926. The road is now part of the A4 road, linking Bristol city centre to the M5 motorway, which bypasses the city near Avonmouth. In the late 1990s the wide pavement through nearly all the Avon Gorge was designated to be legally usable by both cyclists and the fewer pedestrians.

Two railways still run through the gorge. On the east side the Severn Beach Line to Avonmouth and Severn Beach uses the remaining part of the Bristol Port Railway through part of the gorge, and through a tunnel under the Downs. On the west side the Portishead Railway was closed by the Beeching Axe in the 1960s, but has since been reopened for freight traffic as far as Royal Portbury Dock, 2.5 miles (4 km) downstream,Portishead Railway Group, 2006. "[http://www.portisheadrailwaygroup.org/index.html History of the Portishead Railway] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081007054023/http://www.portisheadrailwaygroup.org/index.html |date=7 October 2008 }}." Accessed 15 April 2006 and funding is now in place to reopen the rest of the line and reintroduce passenger services to Portishead.{{cite web |url=https://www.railfuture.org.uk/article1826-Money-for-Portishead |title=Money for Portishead |publisher=Railfuture |date=17 April 2019}}{{cite news |url=https://www.bristolpost.co.uk/news/bristol-news/bristol-portishead-railway-network-rail-3021245 |title=Plans to reopen Bristol to Portishead railway ready to be submitted and line could open in 2023 |website = Bristol Live |first=Kate |last=Wilson |date=26 June 2019}} Between 1893 and 1934, the Clifton Rocks Railway linked the passenger steamer pier at Hotwells with Clifton on the rim of the gorge.{{cite web | title = Clifton Rocks Railway — History | url = http://www.cliftonrocksrailway.org.uk/history_06.htm | publisher = Subterranea Britannica | access-date = 3 June 2007 | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20070617022427/http://www.cliftonrocksrailway.org.uk/history_06.htm| archive-date= 17 June 2007 | url-status= live}}

A footpath and National Cycle Network cycleway run alongside the Portishead Railway and along the old towpath.

The gorge's proximity to the urban population of Bristol made it a popular venue for rock climbing from the 1940s{{Cite news|url=http://climbbristol.com/history/|title=THE HISTORY OF CLIMBING IN THE AVON GORGE|work=Climb Bristol|access-date=2018-03-14|language=en-US|archive-date=30 September 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200930013337/http://climbbristol.com/history/|url-status=dead}} – a time when most UK climbing was centred in mountain areas. The first guide to climbing routes in Avon Gorge was published in 1955 by the University of Bristol Mountaineering Club. The same year, British mountaineer Chris Bonington climbed Main Wall putting up Mercavity.{{Cite journal|last=Bonnington|first=Chris|date=1957|title=Three Climbs at Avon|url=http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1957%20Journal-p36-39.pdf|journal=Climbers Club Journal|pages=36–37}} The 2017 edition of The Climbers' Club Guide to Avon Gorge by Martin Crocker{{Cite book|title=Avon Gorge : the definitive climbers' club guide|last=Martin|first=Crocker|isbn=978-0-9572815-4-7|location=[U.K.?]|oclc=1023538943}} lists 400 pages of routes and guidance. Avon Gorge is often criticised as being so over-climbed many of the routes are "polished".{{Cite web|url=https://www.dicksclimbing.com/blogs/news/45804993-gronk-my-favourite-route-at-avon|title=Gronk – My favourite route at Avon! {{!}} Dick's Climbing|website=www.dicksclimbing.com|language=en|access-date=2018-03-14|archive-date=27 August 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210827201841/https://www.dicksclimbing.com/blogs/news/45804993-gronk-my-favourite-route-at-avon|url-status=dead}}

File:Goram the Giant.JPG]]

The formation of the Avon Gorge is the subject of mediaeval mythology. The myths tell tales of two giant brothers, Goram and Vincent, who constructed the gorge. One variation holds that Vincent and Goram were constructing the gorge together and Goram fell asleep, to be accidentally killed by Vincent's pickaxe. Another variation tells of the brothers falling for Avona, a girl from Wiltshire, who instructs the giants to drain a lake which stretches from Rownham Hill to Bradford-on-Avon (i.e. the Avon valley). Goram began digging the nearby Hazel Brook Gorge in Blaise Castle estate, but consumed too much beer and fell asleep. Vincent dug the Avon Gorge and drained the lake, winning the affection of Avona. Upon waking Goram stamped his foot, creating "The Giant's Footprint" in the Blaise Castle estate, and threw himself into the Bristol Channel, turning to stone and leaving his head and shoulder above water as the islands of Flat Holm and Steep Holm.Eugene Byrne & Simon Gurr, 2002. "[https://web.archive.org/web/20050506033737/http://www.bristol2008.com/comic/how/bmal.htm Bristol Myths and Legends]." Bristol 2008: St Vincent's Rock.

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{{reflist |colwidth=30em}}

• Beckett, Derrick (1980). Brunel's Britain. Newton Abbot: David & Charles. {{ISBN|0-7153-7973-9}}.
• Hussey, David (2000). Coastal and River Trade in Pre-industrial England: Bristol and its Region 1680–1730. Exeter: University of Exeter Press. {{ISBN|0-9674826-4-X}}.
• Myles, Sarah (2000) The Flora of the Bristol Region {{ISBN|1-874357-18-8}}

• [http://www.avongorge.org.uk/ Avon Gorge and Downs Wildlife Project]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20081203184721/http://www.bristoldownswatch.org.uk/ Downswatch: Bristol Downs and Avon Gorge Preservation Group]

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Category:Landforms of Bristol

Category:Geology of Bristol

Category:Geology of Somerset

Category:Canyons and gorges of England

Category:Sites of Special Scientific Interest in Avon

Category:Sites of Special Scientific Interest notified in 1952

Gorge