Ben Lawers

{{Short description|1214m high mountain in Scotland}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2019}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Ben Lawers

| other_name ={{lang|gd|Beinn Labhair}}

| photo = Ben Lawers in Scotland - 2008.jpg

| photo_caption = Ben Lawers seen from Beinn Ghlas

| elevation_m = 1214

| elevation_ref = {{cite web |url=http://www.hill-bagging.co.uk/mountaindetails.php?rf=141 |title=Ben Lawers (Beinn Labhair) |author= |year=2019 |publisher=Hill Bagging - the online version of the Database of British and Irish Hills (DoBIH) |access-date=20 June 2019}}

| prominence = {{c.|915 m}}

| prominence_ref =
Ranked 11th in British Isles

| parent_peak = Ben Nevis

| listing = Munro, Marilyn, Council top (Perth and Kinross), County top (Perthshire)

| translation = mountain of the loud stream{{cite web|url=https://www.ainmean-aite.scot/placename/ben-lawers/ |title=Ben Lawers |work=Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba: Gaelic Place-Names of Scotland}}

| pronunciation = {{IPA|gd|peɲ ˈl̪ˠavɪɾʲ|lang}}

| location = Perth and Kinross, Scotland

| range = Grampian Mountains

| coordinates = {{coord|56|32|44|N|4|13|15|W|type:mountain_region:GB|display=inline,title}}

| grid_ref_UK = NN636414

| topo = OS Landranger 51

| easiest_route =

}}

Ben Lawers ({{langx|gd|Beinn Labhair}}) is the highest mountain in the Breadalbane region of the Scottish Highlands. It lies north of Loch Tay and is the highest peak of the 'Ben Lawers group', a ridge that includes six other Munros: Beinn Ghlas, Meall Garbh, Meall Corranaich, An Stùc, Meall Greigh and Meall a' Choire Leith. It is also the highest peak in Perthshire, and the tenth highest Munro in Scotland. Ben Lawers was long thought to be over {{convert|4,000|ft|m|abbr=off|0}} in height, but accurate measurement in the 1870s showed it to be only {{convert|3983|ft|m}}.D. Bennet (ed.) The Southern Highlands. Scottish Mountaineering Club District Guides - Scottish Mountaineering Trust. 2nd edition (August 1986). p. 161 It is formed of metamorphic rock, most notably calcareous mica-schists, and lower down, schistose grits.{{cite book |last=Johnstone |first=Scott |editor-last=Mardon |editor-first=David |date=1986 |chapter=Formation of the Ben Lawers Range |edition=Revised |title=Ben Lawers |location=Edinburgh |publisher=The National Trust for Scotland |isbn=090162554X |pages=8–9}}

Ben Lawers lies on the watershed between the rivers Tay and Lyon. Since the 1950s, water has been captured from the numerous burns on the south face of Ben Lawers and Meall nan Tarmachan as part of the Breadalbane Hydro-Electric Scheme. The water is diverted to the Lochan na Lairige, from where it is piped to drive hydro-electric turbines at Finlarig on the banks of Loch Tay. The level of the Lochan na Lairige was raised by the construction of the 344-metre-long Lawers Dam, a buttress-type dam that is 42 m high.

Due to its high elevation and underlying geology, Ben Lawers is home to an exceptionally rich selection of arctic-alpine plant species and habitats. Since 1964, it has been designated as a National Nature Reserve (NNR).

History

There is much evidence of former settlements and other human activity on the southern slopes of Ben Lawers above Loch Tay. The fertile limestone and schist soils on these southern slopes have been farmed since very early times and there are many Bronze Age remains. The discovery of many boulders with cup and ring marks led Derek Alexander, an archaeologist for the National Trust for Scotland, to note that the Ben Lawers was likely to have been "a very significant landscape in prehistory."{{cite web |title=Ancient stone artwork discovered |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/tayside_and_central/8205035.stm |date=17 August 2009 |publisher=BBC |access-date=20 September 2009| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20090921102637/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/tayside_and_central/8205035.stm| archive-date= 21 September 2009 | url-status= live}}

Overgrown tracks climb up the mountain from the valley to the peat beds and sheilings on the hillside, and there are ruins of cottages each surrounded by a small group of trees. These, along with the remains of ridged pastures, are signs of early cultivation. This evidence of habitation, and the presence of huts associated with transhumance at high elevation, demonstrate that local people are likely to have visited most if not all of the summits of the Ben Lawers range whilst grazing animals at height during the summer. The mapmaker Timothy Pont visited the area 1590s, and writer Ian R. Mitchell considers that Pont's surveys show that he, or one of his associates, is likely to have climbed Ben Lawers, and should therefore be credited with earliest recorded ascent.{{cite book|author=Ian R. Mitchell| title=Scotland's Mountains Before the Mountaineers|publisher=Luath Press|date=2004|pages=189–190|isbn=0946487391}} Otherwise, the earliest recorded ascent was by members of a party organised by military surveyor William Roy: although it is not certain that Roy himself climbed the peak, his writings show that measurements were taken from the summit of Ben Lawers on 17 September 1776.{{cite book|author=Ian R. Mitchell| title=Scotland's Mountains Before the Mountaineers|publisher=Luath Press|date=2004|pages=39–40|isbn=0946487391}}

In 1878, a group of twenty men led by Malcolm Ferguson spent a day building a {{convert|20|ft|m|0|order=flip|adj=mid|-high}} cairn nearly {{convert|50|ft|m|0|order=flip}} in diameter in the hope of bringing the summit above the "magic" figure of {{convert|4000|ft|m|1}}. The cairn, which was topped with a massive block of white quartz is no longer there; in any case the Ordnance Survey ignored it as an artificial structure that was not truly part of the hill.{{canmore|num=279696|desc=Ben Lawers}}

Ownership

Prior to the 14th century, the mountain stood on the lands of Clan MacMillan. Chalmers of Lawers obtained the land by force from the clan in the mid-14th century in the reign of David II. The land was confiscated from the Chalmers family in 1473 by James III and given to Sir Colin Campbell of Glenorchy after Thomas Chalmers was implicated in the murder of James I. The lands have mainly remained in the ownership of the Campbells of Glenorchy and Breadalbane up to the present day, with some notable exceptions. Many of the farms were sold off in the late 1940s.{{cite book |last=Campbell |first=M. S. |editor-last=Mardon |editor-first=David |date=1986 |chapter=History and Legend |edition=Revised |title=Ben Lawers |location=Edinburgh |publisher=The National Trust for Scotland |isbn=090162554X |pages=4–7}}{{acn|date=August 2024}}

Most of the south side of the Ben Lawers range has since 1950 been owned by the National Trust for Scotland,NTS Guide (2018). and was purchased through the generosity of Percy Unna, a mountaineer and one time president of the Scottish Mountaineering Club. The area of land under trust ownership was extended in 1996 by the purchase of the neighbouring Tarmachan range. The trust built a visitor centre at the western end of the range that had an exhibition explaining the geological formation of the mountain, but this was closed and demolished in 2010.{{canmore|num=103356|desc=Ben Lawers Visitor Centre}} A new car park has been built on the opposite side of the road, from where a path leads to the summit of Ben Lawers by way of the intermediate peak of Beinn Ghlas. There is a nature trail on the lower section of this path, with information leaflets available in the car park.{{cite web|url=https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/new-visitor-facilities-planned-for-ben-lawers/001752/|title=New visitor facilities planned for Ben Lawers|date=2010-06-08|access-date=2004-09-16|publisher=Walk Highlands}}{{cite web|url=https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/perthshire/ben-lawers.shtml|title=Ben Lawers and Beinn Ghlas|access-date=2004-09-16|publisher=Walk Highlands}}

The northern side of the Ben Lawers range comprises three privately owned estates, at Roroyere, Roromore, and South Chesthill. All three cover land extending from Glen Lyon to the watershed of the ridge.{{cite web|url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=5075|title=Property Page: Roroyere|access-date=2018-11-14|publisher=Who Owns Scotland|date=2004-09-16}}{{cite web|url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=5093|title=Property Page: Roromore|access-date=2018-11-14|publisher=Who Owns Scotland|date=2004-09-16}}{{cite web|url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=5059|title=Property Page: South Chesthill|access-date=2018-11-14|publisher=Who Owns Scotland|date=2004-09-13}} As with all land in Scotland, there is a freedom to roam on the hills regardless of whether the land is in public or private ownership, provided that access is exercised responsibly, in accordance with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-05/Publication%202005%20-%20Scottish%20Outdoor%20Access%20Code.pdf|title=Scottish Outdoor Access Code|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|date=2005|access-date=2018-01-16}}

Nature and conservation

{{Infobox protected area

| name = Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve

| alt_name =

| iucn_category = II

| iucn_ref =

| photo =

| photo_alt =

| photo_caption =

| photo_width =

| map = Scotland Perth and Kinross

| relief = 1

| map_alt =

| map_caption =

| map_width =

| location = Perth and Kinross, Scotland

| nearest_city =

| coordinates = {{coords|56|32|44|N|4|13|15|W|region:GB_scale:20000|display=inline}}

| area_km2 = 44.4

| area_ref =

| established = 1964

| designation = NatureScot

| owner = National Trust for Scotland

| url = [https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/ben-lawers Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve]

| embedded =

}}

Ben Lawers is regarded by botanists as one of the richest areas for alpine flora in the UK, due to the schist rocks of the mountain which are situated at the correct elevation for the plants. The rocks supply an adequate amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium and iron to the plants and breaks down to a clayish soil which retains moisture. Some of the plants found on Lawers include alpine forget-me-not, roseroot, net-leaved willow and most of the saxifrages. The Sunday Times reported on 15 February 2021 that efforts are being made on Lawers to save the rare flower Sabulina rubella, also known as Mountain Sandwort, from extinction.{{Cite news|last=Watson|first=Jeremy|title=Botanists in race to save rare flower from extinction|newspaper=The Times |language=en|url=https://www.thetimes.com/uk/scotland/article/botanists-in-race-to-save-rare-flower-from-extinction-ls7l0nfm7|access-date=2021-02-16|issn=0140-0460}}

The mountain is also of interest to zoologists. Some of the bird species include ravens, ring ouzels, red grouse, ptarmigan, golden eagle, peregrine falcon, dotterel, golden plover, and short-eared owls.{{cite web|url=https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/ben-lawers|title=Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve|publisher=National Trust for Scotland|access-date=2018-11-13}}{{cite web|url=https://apps.snh.gov.uk/sitelink-api/v1/sites/185/documents/3|title=Ben Lawers SSSI Site Management Statement|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|access-date=2018-11-13|date=2011-03-25}} Other rare species include the viviparous lizard and the wildcat."Ben Lawers (NTS Guide)" Pages 24 & 25 (Gives biology details).

Ben Lawers is internationally significant for its lichen flora, with over 430 species recorded from its high ground. The mountain's combination of calcareous mica-schist geology, severe climate, and extensive summit cliffs creates ideal conditions for arctic–alpine lichens, particularly in the summit cliffs and Lochan nan Cat corrie areas. The site has yielded several species previously unknown in the British Isles and is considered one of the most important locations for alpine lichens in Britain.{{cite journal |author-link1=Oliver Gilbert (lichenologist) |last1=Gilbert |first1=O.L. |author-link2=Brian John Coppins |last2=Coppins |first2=B.J. |author-link3=Brian William Fox |last3=Fox |first3=B.W. |title=The lichen flora of Ben Lawers |journal=The Lichenologist |volume=20 |issue=3 |year=1988 |doi=10.1017/S0024282988000271 |pages=201–243}}

The Ben Lawers range has been designated as a National Nature Reserve (NNR) since 1964.{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/5005|title=Site Details for Ben Lawers NNR|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}} In 2005 the boundary was altered so that all NTS land at Ben Lawers (including the neighbouring Tarmachan range) was included in the NNR, which the trust now manages on behalf of NatureScot. Ben Lawers is also designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC),{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/8202|title=Site Details for Ben Lawers SAC|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}} and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).{{cite web|url=https://apps.snh.gov.uk/sitelink-api/v1/sites/185/documents/1|title=Ben Lawers Site of Special Scientific Interest Citation|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|access-date=2018-11-13}} The Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve is classified as a Category II protected area by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.{{cite web|url=https://www.protectedplanet.net/1460|title=Ben Lawers|publisher=Protected Planet|access-date=29 January 2021}}

The Ben Lawers range forms part of the Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon National Scenic Area,{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/9137|title=Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}} one of forty such areas in Scotland, which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development by restricting certain forms of development.{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/professional-advice/protected-areas-and-species/protected-areas/national-designations/national-scenic-areas|title=National Scenic Areas|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}}

Climbing

Ben Lawers is a popular mountain, resulting in path erosion and vegetation loss from the number of visiting hillwalkers. Since the 1980s NTS, in partnership with other groups, have undertaken work on the path network in an attempt to control the impact of the high visitor numbers. The simplest route of ascent starts from the NTS carpark, following a path that reaches the summit via an intermediate peak, Beinn Ghlas. Alternative routes that avoid the erosion caused by the popularity of the main route usually start by following Lawers Burn, which meet the A827 at the village of Lawers. Heading north from this burn allows the walker to climb the peaks to the northeast of Ben Lawers on the way. The most direct route to the summit of Ben Lawers from Lawers is to continue along the Lawers Burn as far as the Lochan nan Cat ("lochan of the cats"), before heading straight to the summit by way of the east ridge.{{cite book|editor=Donald Bennet & Rab Anderson|title=The Munros: Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers' Guide|publisher=Scottish Mountaineering Trust|date=2016|page=32|isbn=9780907521945}}

Gallery of images

File:Ben Lawers from Loch Tay.JPG|Ben Lawers seen from Loch Tay

Image:Ben Lawers 014.jpg|Ben Lawers in winter

Image:Lochan Nan Cat from the summit of Ben Lawers.JPG|Lochan Nan Cat from the summit of Ben Lawers

Image:Lawers.jpg|Ben Lawers and Meall Garbh

Image:Prelucrare 3D pentru Meall Garbh, An Stuc, Ben Lawers - Scotia.jpg|Ben Lawers 3D map

See also

References

{{Reflist}}

  • Ben Lawers, National Trust for Scotland, {{ISBN|978-0-901625-54-0}}