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Boone Speed

{{Short description|American photographer and rock climber (born 1965)}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=May 2020}}

{{Infobox climber

| name = Boone Speed

| image =

| image_size = 250px

| alt =

| caption =

| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|1965|08|29}}

| birth_place = Provo, Utah

| death_date =

| death_place =

| other_names =

| known_for =

| occupation = Photographer / climber

| nationality = American

| height = 6 ft 1 in

| weight = 150 lb

| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|5.14c}}

| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|5.13b}}

| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|V12}}

}}

Boone Speed (born August 29, 1965) is an American photographer{{Cite web|title = Photographer Boone Speed|url = http://www.outsideonline.com/1858386/photographer-boone-speed|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150708080815/http://www.outsideonline.com/1858386/photographer-boone-speed|archive-date = July 8, 2015|url-status = dead}} and rock climber.{{Cite web|title = Climbing Legends – James Pearson on Boone Speed – THE NORTH FACE JOURNAL|url = http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/james-pearson-on-boone-speed/|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150325205942/http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/james-pearson-on-boone-speed/|archive-date = March 25, 2015|url-status = dead}} The only son of Western sculptor{{Cite web|title = Von Allen – Marriott Library – The University of Utah|url = http://www.lib.utah.edu/collections/utah-artists/UAP-Ulysses-Speed.php|website = lib.utah.edu|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} Ulysess Grant Speed (January 6, 1930 – October 1, 2011), Boone was raised outside of Provo, Utah, and studied Graphic Design at Brigham Young University.

Climbing career

Boone began climbing in the summer of 1985 near Salt Lake City, Utah. By the spring of 1987 Boone had climbed the most challenging routes in the region,{{Cite web|title = Get Shorty – The 5 best miniature sport routes in America – Climbing| date=April 2009 |url = http://www.climbing.com/route/get-shorty-the-5-best-miniature-sport-routes-in-america/|accessdate = July 12, 2015}} and began traveling to explore new crags in other undeveloped areas, including the sandstone of Red Rocks, outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, American Fork Canyon,{{Cite web|title = Documenting AF Canyon and the climbing revolution {{!}} KSL.com|url = http://www.ksl.com/?sid=22054263|website = www.ksl.com|accessdate = June 26, 2015}} Virgin River Gorge and Logan Canyon, Utah, where Boone became the first American to climb the grade of 5.14b with his first ascent of "Super Tweak"{{Cite web|title = Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade|url = https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm|website = web.stanford.edu|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} in 1994.

Boone has been on the cover of Climbing Magazine twice and has had published writing and photography in climbing, lifestyle and travel magazines worldwide.{{Cite web|title = Top Shots: Climbing's Indelible Images by Boone Speed|url = http://www.rockandice.com/photo-galleries/top-shots-climbings-indelible-images-by-boone-speed|website = rockandice.com|accessdate = July 12, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150905054858/http://www.rockandice.com/photo-galleries/top-shots-climbings-indelible-images-by-boone-speed|archive-date = September 5, 2015|url-status = dead}}

Timeline

  • 1988 Began developing American Fork's Hell Cave{{Cite web|title = 21 Questions with Boone Speed – Climbing| date=August 27, 2009 |url = http://www.climbing.com/climber/21-questions-with-boone-speed/|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} is home to many 1990's era test pieces including Speed's Power Junkie (5.14a) and his hardest route, "Ice Cream" (5.14c)
  • 1989 began to develop the Virgin River Gorge, where Boone established the demanding classics "Fall Of Man" 5.13b (1990) and "Route of all Evil" 5.14a (1994)
  • In August 1991, Boone was Climbing Magazine's cover feature and American Fork Canyon Climbing was its cover story, establishing Salt Lake City as a destination climbing area as well as an influence on the "limestone revolution" in America
  • 1990 Boone was featured in the video "Masters Of Stone" on Dead Souls (5.13d) and Burning (5.13b) in American Fork's "Hell Cave"
  • 1990 began to develop Logan Canyon, where Boone became the first American to successfully establish a consensus 5.14b route, "Super Tweak" in 1994
  • 1991 began employment as designer at Black Diamond Equipment
  • 1994 First ascent of Super Tweak featured in the video "Masters Of Stone 3"{{Cite web|title = Masters of Stone|url = http://www.mastersofstone.com/?view=videos&video=masters-of-stone-3and4|website = mastersofstone.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015}}
  • 1995 Discovered Joe's Valley for bouldering (on tip from Conrad Anker{{Cite web|title = Boone Speed Photography|url = http://conradanker.com/p/image/i/5444/boone-speed-photography.htm|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150911092109/http://conradanker.com/p/image/i/5444/boone-speed-photography.htm|archive-date = September 11, 2015|url-status = dead}}) and established first problems there
  • 1995 Original partner of innovative climbing company Pusher where Boone became an influential handhold and training board shaper
  • 1996 Pictured on cover of Climbing magazine (for second time) and feature article entitled "Boone Speed Tells All"{{Cite web|title = Boone Sheridan Speed – Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, Oregon| date=August 20, 2008 |url = http://www.climbing.com/climber/boone-sheridan-speed-photographer-product-designer-area-developer-entrepreneur-smack-talker-portland-oregon/|accessdate = July 1, 2015}}
  • 1997 met Chris Sharma at base of "Necessary Evil" and established ongoing friendship
  • 1997 climbed first ascent of "Ice Cream" 5.14c becoming one of the first 10 climbers in the world to climb the grade{{Cite web|title = Hard rock climbs – First routes of each grade|url = https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm|website = web.stanford.edu|accessdate = July 1, 2015}}
  • 1997–1999 Employed by Fila as a climbing shoe designer and climbing market authenticator
  • 1999–2001 Employed as creative director and photographer for Pusher{{Cite web|title = An Interview with Boone Speed: Athlete, Photographer, Innovator|url = http://www.theclymb.com/stories/trail-mix/an-interview-with-boone-speed-athlete-photographer-innovator/|accessdate = July 1, 2015|date = December 9, 2009}}
  • 2001–2007 worked as freelance designer and photographer for Bluewater Ropes and [https://www.epusa.com Entre Prises Climbing Walls]
  • 2005 Featured Photographer at Taos Mountain Film Festival{{Cite web|title = This Year's Featured Films – Taos Mountain Film Festival, October 7–9, 2005|url = http://www.mountainfilm.net/2005Films.php|website = mountainfilm.net|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160304052355/http://www.mountainfilm.net/2005Films.php|archive-date = March 4, 2016|url-status = dead}}
  • 2009 Photography show at Nau popup in New York
  • 2011 PDN's "The Shot" Grand Prize winner{{Cite web|title = The Shot 2011|url = http://www.pdngallery.com/contests/theshot/2011/flash_module.shtml|website = pdngallery.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015}}
  • 2013 Photographed Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda for ESPN The Magazine "The Body Issue"{{Cite web|title = ESPN's 2013 Body Issue's Bodies We Want|url = https://www.espn.com/espn/photos/gallery/_/id/9428872/image/18/chris-sharma-daila-ojeda-2013-body-issue-bodies-want-espn-magazine|access-date = July 1, 2015}}
  • 2014 Represented America as climbing Legend at The North Face's Kalymnos Climbing Festival{{Cite web|title = The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival|url = http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/climbing/kalymnos-climbing-festival/|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150624063315/http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/climbing/kalymnos-climbing-festival/|archive-date = June 24, 2015|url-status = dead}}
  • 2015 "Frightening Nature" film accepted into Cannes Short Film Corner (Director of Photography){{Cite web|title = FRIGHTENING NATURE|url = http://sub.festival-cannes.fr/SfcCatalogue/MovieDetail/13e19d3e-2870-4f4c-9df3-4e7ba5f1b737|website = sub.festival-cannes.fr|accessdate = July 1, 2015}}

Filmography

  • "Masters of Stone"{{Cite web|title = Masters of Stone|url = http://mastersofstone.com|website = mastersofstone.com|accessdate = June 30, 2015}} (1990)
  • "Masters of Stone 3"{{Cite web|title = Masters of Stone|url = http://mastersofstone.com/|website = mastersofstone.com|accessdate = June 30, 2015}} (1994)
  • "Yank on This" (1995)
  • "Three Weeks and a Day"{{Citation|title = Three Weeks & A Day: The Road, Rock, Life, Reality – An Epic|asin = 6303891942}} (1996)
  • "Best Forgotten Art"{{Cite web|title = Best Forgotten Art – SteepEdge|url = http://steepedge.com/categories/rock-climbing/best-forgotten-art.html|website = steepedge.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150911062611/http://steepedge.com/categories/rock-climbing/best-forgotten-art.html|archive-date = September 11, 2015|url-status = dead}} (1996)
  • "Fast Twitch"{{Cite web|title = Rock Climbing Media Reviews: Books, Movies, and more.|url = http://www.chockstone.org/Media/Review.asp?Action=Show&BookID=247&LimitFormat=|website = chockstone.org|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (1997)
  • "Movement" (1998)
  • "Free Hueco"{{Cite web|title = The Crank Chronicles: Crank Media Review: Free Hueco!|url = http://crankchronicles.blogspot.com/2015/04/crank-media-review-free-hueco.html|website = The Crank Chronicles|date = April 21, 2015|accessdate = July 1, 2015|first = Crank|last = Climbing}} (1998)
  • "Frequent Flyers"{{Cite web|title = Review: Big Up Productions' Progression DVD|url = http://climbingnarc.com/2009/10/review-big-up-productions-progression-dvd/|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (2001)
  • "Best of the West"{{Cite web|title = Best of the West climbing video download from iCLIMB.com|url = http://www.iclimb.com/products/Best-Of-The-West-Download.html|website = iclimb.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (2004)
  • "Big Game"{{Cite web|title = Big game|url = http://www.outdoor-films.com/film/climbing/big-game|website = outdoor-films.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (2004)
  • "King Lines"{{Citation|title = King Lines|url = https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1144805/|date = March 1, 2007|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (2007)
  • "Perfecto{{Cite web|title = Perfecto|url = http://www.outdoor-films.com/film/climbing/perfecto|website = outdoor-films.com|accessdate = 2015-06-30}}" (2007)
  • "Heraklia"{{Cite web|title = Herakleia|url = http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/Herakleia?A=WebApp&CCID=16516&Page=4&Items=1|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160303234112/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/Herakleia?A=WebApp&CCID=16516&Page=4&Items=1|archive-date = March 3, 2016|url-status = dead}} (2008)
  • "Running From Crazy"{{Citation|title = Running from Crazy|url = https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2451742/|date = January 7, 2013|accessdate = July 1, 2015}} (2012)
  • "Project American Fork"{{Cite web|title = Project American Fork – Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles|url = http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/project-american-fork|website = dpmclimbing.com|accessdate = July 1, 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160304061014/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/project-american-fork|archive-date = March 4, 2016|url-status = dead}} (2013)

References

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Category:1965 births

Category:Artists from Provo, Utah

Category:Travel photographers

Category:American sports photographers

Category:American rock climbers

Category:Photographers from Oregon

Category:Living people

Category:Artists from Portland, Oregon

Category:Shoe designers