Buckram

In the Middle Ages, "bokeram" simply designated a fine cotton cloth. The etymology of the term remains uncertain; the Oxford English Dictionary considers the commonly mentioned derivation from the name of the city of Bokhara unlikely.An example of the "Bokhara" etymology:

• {{cite book |last=King |first=Donald |title=Age of Chivalry: Art in Plantagenet England, 1200–1400 |date=1987 |publisher=Royal Academy of Arts; Weidenfeld & Nicolson |isbn=9780297791904 |editor1=Jonathan Alexander |location=London |pages=157–161 |chapter=Embroidery and Textiles |oclc=1223895666 |quote=Fine cotton cloth known as bokeram (derived from Bokhara; the cloth was originally imported from Asia) was used for garments, linings and banners. |editor2=Paul Binski |chapter-url=https://archive.org/details/ageofchivalryart0000unse_t1u3/page/156 |quote-page=157}}{{oed|buckram|quote=Of the ultimate etymology nothing is really known. Some refer to Italian {{lang|it|bucherare}} 'to pierce full of holes', supposing that the name was first given to a kind of muslin or net{{nbsp}}... Reiske (in Constantin. Porphyrog. ed. Niebuhr II. 530) proposes Arabic {{transl|ar|abū qirām}} {{lang|la|'pannus cum intextis figuris'|italic=no}}, but he does not say where he found this compound; the simple {{transl|ar|qirām}} is of doubtful meaning, the Arab lexicographers quoted in the {{transl|ar|Qāmūs}} giving the various renderings 'red veil', 'striped and figured woollen cloth', 'thin veil'{{nbsp}}... Others suggest derivation Bokhara, or Bulgaria, but this does not agree with the early French forms.}}
• Citing: {{lang|la|Constantini Porphyrogeniti Imperatoris de Cerimoniis Aulae Byzantinae Libri Duo Graece et Latine}}, edited by Niebuhr (1829) from the recension by Reiske, Volume II.

Several of buckram's qualities make it attractive for bookbinding. Highly durable, buckram does not allow the bookbinder's paste to seep through and discolor or stain the book's front and back covers.{{cite web |last=Thomson |first=Paul |title=Introduction to Bookbinding Supplies and Materials |url=https://www.ibookbinding.com/blog/bookbinding-supplies-and-materials/ |website=iBookBinding - Bookbinding Tutorials & Resources |access-date=8 October 2019 |date=8 November 2013}}

Pyroxylin-impregnated buckram is often favored due to its resistance to water, insects, fungi, and general wear. This is especially important for library binding, where many people will be repeatedly handling the same books.{{Cite web|title=Bookbinding and the Conservation of Books - A Dictionary of Descriptive Terminology|url=https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/dt/dt0414.html#:~:text=Pyroxylin%20impregnated%20fabrics%20are%20superior,for%20use%20in%20library%20binding.|url-status=live|access-date=2020-10-17|website=cool.culturalheritage.org|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200724175614/https://cool.culturalheritage.org/don/dt/dt0414.html |archive-date=2020-07-24 }} However, pyroxylin fabrics are less chemically stable than starch-filled fabrics and can be affected by extreme temperatures.{{Cite web|title=Books and Bound Items - Preservation Self-Assessment Program|url=https://psap.library.illinois.edu/collection-id-guide/bookbound#clothcover|access-date=2023-12-06|website=psap.library.illinois.edu }}

Millinery buckram is impregnated with a starch which allows it to be softened in water, pulled over a hat block, and left to dry into a hard shape.{{cite book |last1=Hart |first1=Eric |title=The Prop Building Guidebook: For Theatre, Film, and TV |date=2013 |publisher=Taylor & Francis |isbn=9780240821382 |page=292 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TSx5VSRqbfgC&pg=PA292 }} Millinery buckram comes in many weights, including lightweight or baby buckram (often used for children's and dolls' hats),{{cite journal |title=The Copyist |journal=The Illustrated Milliner |date=July 1913 |volume=14 |issue=7 |page=68 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_wlQAAAAYAAJ&pg=RA3-PA86 |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=The Illustrated Milliner Company }} single-ply buckram, and double buckram (also known as theatrical buckram or crown buckram).{{cite newsletter |last=McMasters |first=Lynn |title=Buckram 101 |journal=Finery |date=1 November 2005 |url=http://www.gbacg.org/finery/2005/buckram-101/ |access-date=8 October 2019 |publisher=Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild}}

{{Reflist}}

• [https://patents.google.com/patent/US1712991A/en US patent US1712991A], Method for preparing buckram

{{Fabric}}

Category:Woven fabrics