Burford
{{short description|Town in Oxfordshire, England}}
{{about|the town in Oxfordshire}}
{{Use British English|date=May 2016}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2016}}
{{Infobox UK place
|official_name= Burford
|static_image_name= Main Street in BurfordOxfordshire, UK.jpeg
|static_image_caption= Looking north along 'The Hill'
|population= 1422
|population_ref= (parish, 2011 Census)
|coordinates = {{coord|51.808|-1.637|display=inline,title}}
|os_grid_reference= SP2512
|london_distance=
|civil_parish= Burford
|shire_district= West Oxfordshire
|shire_county= Oxfordshire
|region= South East England
|country= England
|post_town= Burford
|postcode_area= OX
|postcode_district= OX18
|dial_code= 01993
|constituency_westminster= Witney
|website= [http://www.burford-tc.gov.uk/ Burford Town Council]
}}
Burford ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|b|ɜːr|f|ər|d}}) is a town on the River Windrush, in the Cotswold hills, in the West Oxfordshire district of Oxfordshire, England. It is often referred to as the 'gateway' to the Cotswolds. Burford is located {{convert|18|mi}} west of Oxford and {{convert|22|mi}} southeast of Cheltenham, about {{convert|2|mi|0}} from the Gloucestershire boundary. The toponym derives from the Old English words burh meaning fortified town or hilltown and ford, the crossing of a river. The 2011 Census recorded the population of Burford parish as 1,422.{{cite web |url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11121417&c=Burford&d=16&e=62&g=6459904&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1418412232234&enc=1 |title=Area: Burford (Parish): Key Figures for 2011 Census: Key Statistics |work=Neighbourhood Statistics |publisher=Office for National Statistics |access-date=12 December 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304003705/http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadKeyFigures.do?a=7&b=11121417&c=Burford&d=16&e=62&g=6459904&i=1001x1003x1032x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1418412232234&enc=1 |archive-date=4 March 2016 |url-status=dead }}
Economic and social history
The town began in the middle Saxon period with the founding of a village near the site of the modern priory building. This settlement continued in use until just after the Norman Conquest of England when the new town of Burford was built. On the site of the old village a hospital was founded which remained open until the Dissolution of the Monasteries by King Henry VIII. The modern priory building was constructed some 40 years later, in around 1580.{{cite news|title=Best Burford – Places To Visit in the Cotswolds|url=http://englandexplore.com/best-places-to-visit-in-the-cotswolds/|access-date=29 March 2016|work=englandexplore|archive-date=28 March 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160328194543/http://englandexplore.com/best-places-to-visit-in-the-cotswolds/|url-status=live}}
The town centre's most notable building is the Church of St John the Baptist, a Church of England parish church,{{cite web|url=http://www.burfordchurch.org/|title=Burford Church : Burford Church|publisher=burfordchurch.org|access-date=12 March 2017|archive-date=13 March 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170313125044/http://www.burfordchurch.org/|url-status=live}} which is a Grade I listed building.{{NHLE|num=1053287 |desc=Church of St John the Baptist |grade=I |access-date=23 October 2019}} Described by David Verey as "a complicated building which has developed in a curious way from the Norman",{{cite book |first=David |last=Verey |title=Cotswold Churches |publisher=B. T. Batsford Ltd. |date=1976 |page=115 |isbn=0713430540}} it is known for its merchants' guild chapel, memorial to Henry VIII's barber-surgeon, Edmund Harman, featuring South American Indians and Kempe stained glass. In 1649 the church was used as a prison during the Civil War,{{harvnb|Gardner|1852|pp=497–498}} when the New Model Army Banbury mutineers were held there. Some of the 340 prisoners left carvings and graffiti, which still survive in the church.
File:The Tolsey, Burford - geograph.org.uk - 300511.jpg]]
The town centre also has some 15th-century houses and the baroque-style townhouse that is now Burford Methodist Church. Between the 14th and 17th centuries Burford was important for its wool trade. The Tolsey, midway along Burford's High Street, which was once the focal point for trade, is now a museum.{{cite web|url=http://www.tolseymuseumburford.org/|title=Tolsey Museum Burford|access-date=12 March 2017|archive-date=13 March 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170313124344/http://www.tolseymuseumburford.org/|url-status=live}} The authors of Burford: Buildings and People in a Cotswold Town (2008) argue that Burford should be seen as less a medieval town than an Arts and Crafts town.{{cite journal |last1=Catling |first1=Chris |title=The Story of Burford: How to do local history |journal=Current Archaeology |date=30 April 2009 |url=https://www.archaeology.co.uk/articles/features/the-story-of-burford-how-to-do-local-history.htm |access-date=3 April 2019 |archive-date=3 April 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190403191130/https://www.archaeology.co.uk/articles/features/the-story-of-burford-how-to-do-local-history.htm |url-status=live }} A 2020 article in Country Life magazine summarized the community's recent history:{{cite magazine |url=https://www.countrylife.co.uk/architecture/how-the-cotswolds-came-to-define-the-vision-of-the-english-idyll-216788 |title=How the architecture of the Cotswolds came to define the archetypal English country village |first=Clive |last=Aslet |date=14 July 2020 |magazine=Country Life |access-date=16 July 2020 |url-access=registration |archive-date=17 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200717112058/https://www.countrylife.co.uk/architecture/how-the-cotswolds-came-to-define-the-vision-of-the-english-idyll-216788 |url-status=live }}
"Burford, similarly, had bustled during the coaching era, but coaching inns such as Ramping Cat and the Bull were diminished or closed when the railways came. Agriculture remained old-fashioned, if not Biblical, and was badly affected by the long agricultural depression that started in the 1870s. The local dialect was so thick that, in the 1890s, Gibbs had to publish a glossary to explain George Ridler’s Oven, one of the folk songs he collected. In the late 19th century, the Cotswolds assumed a Sleeping Beauty charm, akin to that of Burne-Jones’s Legend of the Briar Rose at Buscot Park in the Thames Valley."
=Priory=
Burford Priory is a country house that stands on the site of a 13th-century Augustinian priory hospital. In the 1580s an Elizabethan house was built incorporating remnants of the building.{{sfn|Sherwood|Pevsner|1974|p=510}} It was remodelled in Jacobean style, probably after 1637, by which time the estate had been bought by William Lenthall, Speaker of the House of Commons in the Long Parliament. After 1912 the house and later the chapel were restored for the philanthropist Emslie John Horniman, MP, by the architect Walter Godfrey.{{sfn|Sherwood|Pevsner|1974|pp=510–511}} From 1949 Burford Priory housed the Society of the Salutation of Mary the Virgin, a community of Church of England nuns. In 1987, in declining numbers, it became a mixed community including Church of England Benedictine monks. In 2008 the community relocated and sold the property which is now a private dwelling.{{cite news |url=http://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/2299702.monks_on_the_move/ |newspaper=Oxford Mail |date=27 May 2008 |title=Monks on the Move |publisher=Newsquest |access-date=18 March 2009 |archive-date=5 October 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111005061413/http://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/2299702.monks_on_the_move/ |url-status=live }} A Time Team excavation of the Priory in 2010 found pottery sherds from the 12th or 13th century.{{cite web |title=Time Team Series 17: Priory Engagement (Burford, Oxfordshire) |url=https://www.wessexarch.co.uk/news/time-team-series-17-priory-engagement-burford-oxfordshire |website=Wessex Archaeology |access-date=3 April 2019 |date=2011 |archive-date=3 April 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190403191130/https://www.wessexarch.co.uk/news/time-team-series-17-priory-engagement-burford-oxfordshire |url-status=live }}
= English Civil Wars – the Banbury mutiny =
On 17 May 1649, three soldiers who were Levellers were executed on the orders of Oliver Cromwell in the churchyard at Burford following a mutiny started over pay and the prospect of being sent to fight in Ireland. Corporal Church, Private Perkins, and Cornet Thompson were the key leaders of the mutiny and, after a brief court-martial, were put up against the wall in the churchyard at Burford and shot. The remaining soldiers were pardoned. Each year on the nearest weekend to the Banbury mutiny is commemorated as 'Levellers Day'.{{Cite web|title=Levellers Day|url=https://www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org/whats-on/levellers-day-p1522731|website=Levellers Day|language=en|access-date=2020-05-07|archive-date=27 September 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200927211156/https://www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org/whats-on/levellers-day-p1522731|url-status=live}}
=Bell foundry=
Burford has twice had a bell foundry: one run by the Neale family in the 17th century and another run by the Bond family in the 19th and 20th centuries. Henry Neale was a bell founder between 1627 and 1641 and also had a foundry at Somerford Keynes in Gloucestershire.{{cite web |url=http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/founders.php |title=Bell Founders |author=Dovemaster |date=25 June 2010 |work=Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers |access-date=11 January 2011 |archive-date=4 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150904010159/http://dove.cccbr.org.uk/founders.php |url-status=live }} Edward Neale had joined him as a bell-founder at Burford by 1635 and continued the business until 1685. Numerous Neale bells remain in use, including at St Britius, Brize Norton, St Mary's, Buscot, and St James the Great, Fulbrook. A few Neale bells that are no longer rung are displayed in Burford parish church. Henry Bond had a bell foundry at Westcot from 1851 to 1861. He then moved it to Burford where he continued until 1905. He was then succeeded by Thomas Bond, who continued bell-founding at Burford until 1947. Bond bells still in use include four of the ring of six at St John the Evangelist, Taynton, one and a Sanctus bell at St Nicholas, Chadlington{{cite web |url=https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=CHADLINGTO |title=Dove's Guide: Chadlington |author=Dovemaster |date=19 March 2019 |work=Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers |access-date=20 March 2019 |archive-date=2 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210502180845/https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=CHADLINGTO |url-status=live }} and one each at St Mary the Virgin, Chalgrove{{cite web |url=https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=CHALGROVE |title=Dove's Guide: Chalgrove |author=Dovemaster |date=19 March 2019 |work=Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers |access-date=20 March 2019 |archive-date=4 August 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200804032233/https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=CHALGROVE |url-status=live }} and St Peter's, Whatcote in Warwickshire.{{cite web |url=https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=WHATCOTE |title=Dove's Guide: Whatcote |author=Dovemaster |date=19 March 2019 |work=Dove's Guide for Church Bell Ringers |access-date=20 March 2019 |archive-date=6 August 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200806192559/https://dove.cccbr.org.uk/detail.php?DoveID=WHATCOTE |url-status=live }}
=Easter Synod=
For many years before the 7th century there had been strife between the Celtic Church and the Early Church over the question of when Easter Day should be celebrated. The Britons adhered to the rule laid at the Council of Arles in 314, that Easter Day should be the 14th day of the Paschal moon, even if the moon were on a Sunday. The Roman Church had decided that when the 14th day of the Paschal moon was a Sunday, Easter Day should be the Sunday after. Various Synods were held in different parts of the kingdom with the object of settling this controversy, and one was held for this object at Burford in 685.{{sfn|Monk|1891|p=29}} Monk deduces from the fact of the Synod being held at Burford, that the Britons in some numbers had settled in the town and neighbourhood. This Synod was attended by Æthelred, King of Mercia, and his nephew Berthwald (who had been granted the southern part of his uncle's kingdom); Theodore, Archbishop of Canterbury; Bosel, Bishop of Worcester; Seaxwulf, Bishop of Lichfield; Aldhelm, Abbot of Malmesbury; and many others. Aldhelm was ordered at this conference to write a book against the error of the Britons in the observance of Easter. At this Synod Berthwald gave 40 cassates of land (a cassate is enough land to support a family) to Aldhelm who afterwards became Bishop of Shereborne. According to Spelman, the notes of the Synod were published in 705.
=Battle of Burford and the Golden Dragon=
Malmesbury and other chroniclers record a battle between the West Saxons and Mercians at Burford in 752.{{sfn|Monk|1891|p=7}} In the end Æthelhum, the Mercian standard-bearer who carried the flag with a golden dragon on it, was killed by the lance of his Saxon rival.{{sfn|Gardner|1852|pp=497-498}} The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records "A.D 752. This year Cuthred, king of the West Saxons, in the 12th year of his reign, fought at Burford, against Æthelbald king of the Mercians, and put him to flight."{{sfn|Gardner|1852|pp=497-498}} The historian William Camden (1551–1623) wrote
"... in Saxon Beorgford [i.e. Burford], where Cuthred, king of the West Saxons, then tributary to the Mercians, not being able to endure any longer the cruelty and base exactions of King Æthelbald, met him in the open field with an army and beat him, taking his standard, which was a portraiture of a golden dragon."{{sfn|Gardner|1852|pp=497-498}}
The origin of the golden dragon standard is attributed to that of Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur of whom Geoffrey of Monmouth wrote:
[Uther Pendragon] "... ordered two dragons to be fashioned in gold, in the likeness of the one which he had seen in the ray which shone from that star. As soon as the Dragons had been completed this with the most marvellous craftsmanship – he made a present of one of them to the congregation of the cathedral church of the see of Winchester. The second one he kept for himself, so that he could carry it around to his wars."{{sfn|Geoffrey of Monmouth|1966|p=202}}
In the late 16th or early 17th century the people of Burford still celebrated the anniversary of the battle. Camden wrote: "There has been a custom in the town of making a great dragon yearly, and carrying it up and down the streets in great jollity on St John's Eve".{{sfn|Monk|1891|p=8}} The field traditionally claimed to be that of the battle is still called Battle Edge.{{sfn|Gardner|1852|pp=497-498}} According to Reverend Francis Knollis' description of the discovery, "On 21 November 1814 a large freestone sarcophagus was discovered near Battle Edge {{convert|3|ft}} below ground, weighing {{convert|16|long cwt}} with the feet pointing almost due south. The interior is {{convert|6|ft}} long and {{convert|2|ft|2|in|m}} wide. It was found to contain the remains of a human body, with portions of a leather cuirass studded with metal nails. The skeleton was found in near perfect state due to the exclusion of air from the sarcophagus."{{cite web |last1=Chase |first1=Reta |title=History of Burford |url=https://www.forgottenbooks.com/en/download/HistoryofBurford_10822635.pdf |publisher=Burford Advance |access-date=19 August 2020 |archive-date=2 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210502180835/https://www.forgottenbooks.com/en/download/HistoryofBurford_10822635.pdf |url-status=live }} The coffin is now preserved in Burford churchyard, near the west gate.
"Whose fame is in that dark green tomb? Four stones with their heads of moss stand there. They mark the narrow house of death. Some chief of fame is here! Raise the songs of old! Awake their memory in the tomb." – Ossian
Amenities
Burford County Primary School is the town's primary school. Burford School, a mixed comprehensive school, is the town's secondary school. The primary school fête, held every summer, includes a procession (including a dragon) down High Street to the school, where there are stalls and games. The Blue Cross National Animal Welfare Charity is based at Burford.{{cite web|url=http://www.bluecross.org.uk/|title=Blue Cross|access-date=12 March 2017|archive-date=3 February 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150203052542/http://www.bluecross.org.uk/|url-status=live}} In September 2001 Burford was twinned with Potenza Picena, a small town in the Marche, on the Adriatic coast of Italy.{{cite web|url=http://www.burfordtown.com/burford%20and%20potenza%20picena.htm|title=10th Anniversary of Burford's Twinning with Potenza Picena |access-date=15 June 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150705161323/http://www.burfordtown.com/burford%20and%20potenza%20picena.htm|archive-date=5 July 2015|url-status=usurped}} In April 2009 Burford was ranked sixth in Forbes magazine's list of "Europe's Most Idyllic Places To Live".{{cite web |url=https://www.forbes.com/2008/11/18/europe-homes-dollar-forbeslife-cx_po_1118realestate_slide_6.html |title=In Pictures: Europe's Most Idyllic Places To Live |first1=Edward |last1=Beckett |first2=Parmy |last2=Olson |work=Forbes |date=18 Nov 2008 |access-date=23 October 2019 |archive-date=12 July 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190712181251/https://www.forbes.com/2008/11/18/europe-homes-dollar-forbeslife-cx_po_1118realestate_slide_6.html |url-status=live }}
Media
Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC South and ITV Meridian. Television signals are received from the Oxford TV transmitter.{{cite web|url=https://ukfree.tv/transmitters/tv/Oxford|title=Full Freeview on the Oxford (Oxfordshire, England) transmitter|date=1 May 2004|website=UK Free TV|accessdate=22 December 2023}} Local radio stations are BBC Radio Oxford, Heart South, Greatest Hits Radio South (formerly Jack FM) and Witney Radio, a community-based station which broadcast from Witney.{{Cite web |url=http://www.witneyradio.co.uk/|title=Witney Radio |access-date=22 December 2023}} The town's local newspapers are the Oxfordshire Guardian and Witney Gazette.{{cite web|url=https://www.britishpapers.co.uk/england-se/witney-gazette/|title=Witney Gazette|date=4 January 2014|website=British Papers|accessdate=22 December 2023}} The Bridge Magazine is a local community magazine produced by and for the people of Burford and surrounding villages in West Oxfordshire.{{Cite web |url=https://www.thebridgeburford.co.uk/|title=The Bridge Magazine |access-date=22 December 2023}}
Local legend and literature
Local legend tells of a fiery coach containing the judge and local landowner Sir Lawrence Tanfield of Burford Priory and his wife flying around the town that brings a curse upon all who see it.{{cite book |last=Sullivan |first=Paul |year=2012 |title=The Little Book of Oxfordshire |place=Stroud |publisher=The History Press |chapter=Legends, Superstition and the Supernatural – Ghostly One-Liners |isbn=978-0-7524-7738-1|pages=184–186}} Ross Andrews speculates that the apparition may have been caused by a local tradition of burning effigies of the unpopular couple that began after their deaths.{{cite book |last=Andrews |first=Ross |year=2010 |title=Paranormal Oxford |place=Chalford |publisher=Amberley |page=95 |chapter=Other Oxford, and Oxfordshire Haunted Venues |isbn=978-1-4456-0002-4}} In real life Tanfield and his second wife Elizabeth Evans are known to have been notoriously harsh to their tenants. The visitations were reportedly ended when local clergymen trapped Lady Tanfield's ghost in a corked glass bottle during an exorcism and cast it into the River Windrush.{{cite book |last=Yurdan |first=Marilyn |year=2002 |title=Unexplained Oxford and Oxfordshire |publisher=The Book Castle |place=Dunstable |page=5 |isbn=978-1-903747-21-6}} During droughts locals would fill the river from buckets to ensure that the bottle did not rise above the surface and free the spirit.{{cite book |last=Robinson |first=Joe |year=2000 |title=Oxfordshire Ghosts |place=Barnsley |publisher=Wharncliffe Books |pages=96–99 |chapter=Supernatural Events in Burford |isbn=978-1-871647-76-1}} Burford is the main setting for The Wool-Pack, a historical novel for children by Cynthia Harnett.{{cite web |last1=Harnett |first1=Cynthia |title=The Wool Pack. |url=https://cynthiaharnett.storymole.com/books/The%20Wool%20Pack. |access-date=19 August 2020 |archive-date=2 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210502180921/https://cynthiaharnett.storymole.com/books/The%20Wool%20Pack. |url-status=live }} The author J. Meade Falkner, best known for the novel Moonfleet, is buried in the churchyard of St John the Baptist.{{cite web |url=https://www.johnmeadefalknersociety.co.uk/meetings |title=Society Meetings |publisher= John Meade Falkner Society |access-date=3 November 2022}}
Notable people
File:Sir William Beechey, self-portrait, c1800.jpg, self-portrait, ca.1800]]
- Elizabeth Cary, Viscountess Falkland (1585–1639), poet, dramatist and historian
- William Lenthall (1591–1662 in Burford), politician, Speaker of the House of Commons in the Civil War period{{Cite EB1911|wstitle=Lenthall, William|volume=16|pages=429–430|short=1}}
- Peter Heylyn (1599–1662), ecclesiastic and author of polemical, historical, political and theological tracts
- Lucius Cary, 2nd Viscount Falkland (ca.1610–1643), author and politician{{Cite EB1911|wstitle=Falkland, Lucius Cary, 2nd Viscount|volume=10||last= Yorke | first= Philip Chesney |author-link=|pages=149–151|short=1}}
- Marchamont Nedham (1620–1678), journalist, publisher and pamphleteer during the English Civil War
- Christopher Kempster (1627–1715), master stonemason and architect
- William Beechey (1753–1839), portrait painter{{Cite EB1911|wstitle=Beechey, Sir William|volume=3|page=640|short=1}}
- Charles Henry Newmarch (1824–1903), cleric and author
- Katharine Mary Briggs (1898–1980), folklorist and writer, lived in Burford
- Edward Mortimer (1943–2021), UN civil servant, journalist, author and academic
In popular culture
Burford was referred to as Beorgford in The Saxon Stories by Bernard Cornwell.
See also
- Oxford Blue – a cheese made in Burford
References
{{reflist|30em}}
Sources
- {{cite book |last=Gardner |first=Robert |year=1852 |title=Directory of Oxfordshire |chapter=Burford Town and Parish |pages=497–498 |url=http://www.genoot.com/eng/oxf/b/burford/gardner.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304025349/http://www.genoot.com/eng/oxf/b/burford/gardner.html |archive-date=4 March 2016 |df=dmy-all }}
- {{cite book |author=Geoffrey of Monmouth |author-link=Geoffrey of Monmouth |title=The History of the Kings of Britain |orig-year=circa 1136 |year=1966 |place=Harmondsworth |publisher= Penguin Books |page=202 }} translated by Lewis Thorpe.
- {{cite book |last=Monk |first=William John |title=The History of Burford |url=https://archive.org/details/historyburford00monkgoog |year=1891 |place= Burford & London |publisher=C.W. Swatman; Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co. Ltd. }}
- {{cite book |last1=Sherwood |first1=Jennifer |last2=Pevsner |first2=Nikolaus |author-link2=Nikolaus Pevsner |series=The Buildings of England |title=Oxfordshire |year=1974 |publisher=Penguin Books |place=Harmondsworth |isbn=0-14-071045-0 |pages=501–522 }}
External links
{{Commons category|Burford, Oxfordshire}}
{{Wikivoyage}}
{{EB1911 poster|Burford}}
- {{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20150501192515/http://www.burfordtown.com/ Burford – Gateway to the Cotswolds]}} (Town Council website)
- [https://www.geograph.org.uk/search.php?i=2652508 www.geograph.co.uk : photos of Burford and surrounding area]
{{West Oxfordshire}}
{{Oxfordshire}}
{{authority control}}
Category:Civil parishes in Oxfordshire
Category:History of Oxfordshire