Challis (fabric)
{{Short description|Supple, lightweight, plain-woven fabric, originally of silk and worsted}}
File:Crinkle challis fabric.jpg
Challis, sometimes referred to as challie{{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=I8uxpd6ajqkC&dq=challie+challis+fabric&pg=PA293 | title=Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper's Bazar, 1867-1898] | author=Stella Blum | date=1974 | publisher=Courier Corporation| isbn=9780486229904 }} or chally,{{cite magazine | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=I8uxpd6ajqkC&dq=challie+challis+fabric&pg=PA293 | title=Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers | volume=23 | page=144 | author=S.N. Dexter North | date=1893| publisher=Courier Corporation | isbn=9780486229904 }} is a lightweight woven fabric, originally a silk-and-wool blend, which can also be made from a single fibre, such as cotton, silk or wool,{{cite book|last=Dooley|first=William Henry|title=Textiles for Commercial, Industrial, and Domestic Arts Schools|year=1924|publisher=Istodia Publishing LLC|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JBdXRrrfLUAC&pg=PA66|isbn=9781449589363|pages=66–67}} or from man-made fabrics such as rayon.{{cite book|last=Stauffer|first=Jeanne|title=Sewing Smart with Fabric|year=2004|publisher=DRG Wholesale|page=106 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8_-NkR8TEyEC&pg=PA106|isbn=9781592170180}} It was first manufactured in Norwich, England, in about 1832, when it was designed as a thin, soft material similar to Norwich crepe, but matte-textured rather than glossy, and more pliable.{{cite book|last=James|first=John|title=History of the worsted manufacture in England: from the earliest times; with introductory notices of the manufacture among the ancient nations, and during the middle ages|year=1857|publisher=Longman, Brown, Green, Longmans, and Roberts|url=https://archive.org/details/historyofworsted00jame|page=[https://archive.org/details/historyofworsted00jame/page/436 436]}}
It was being exported to Australia in 1833.{{cite web | url=http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/12846065 | title=THE arrival of the Mary | newspaper=Sydney Herald | date=January 14, 1833 | access-date=April 30, 2021}} Challis could be made with woven designs, or printed. 'French challis' has a glossy finish. The designs were often floral, paisley, or geometric,{{cite book |last=Maitra |first=K. K. |title=Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Clothing and Textiles |year=2007 |publisher=Mittal Publications |isbn=9788183242059 |page=72 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jwHv0mmIagQC&pg=PA72}} and based on French silk patterns.
The term is derived from an Anglo-Indian word, shallee, which means 'soft'. At least one source suggests the term is American Indian.{{cite book|last=Pizutto|first=Joseph James|title=Fabric science|year=1987|publisher=Fairchild Publications|page=352|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=D1lQAAAAYAAJ&q=+shallee|author2=Arthur Price|author3=Allen C. Cohen|isbn=9780870055829|access-date=16 July 2013}}