Craig Luebben

{{Short description|American author, climber (1960–2009)}}

{{Infobox writer

| name = Craig Luebben

| image =

| caption =

| pseudonym =

| birth_date = May 20, 1960

| birth_place = Iowa

| death_date = August 9, 2009

| death_place = North Cascades, Washington State

| occupation = Rock Climber, Mechanical Engineer, Educator, Writer and Mountain Guide

| genre = essays, journals, histories, scientific papers, biographies, textbooks

| movement =

| influences =

| influenced =

| website = {{URL|http://www.craigluebben.com/}}

| spouse = Silvia Luebben (1997–his death)

| children = Giulia

| signature =

| subject = Mountaineering, rock climbing

| alma_mater = Colorado State University

| home_town =

| period = 1991–2006

| notable_works = Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

}}

Craig Luebben (20 May 1960 – 9 August 2009) was an American rock climber and author.

Luebben was born in Iowa and moved to Colorado at age seven, where he cultivated his love of the outdoors.{{Cite web |title=AAC Publications - Craig Luebben, 1960-2009 |url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201038100/Craig-Luebben-1960-2009 |access-date=2024-07-23 |website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}} A climber since the early 1980s, Luebben wrote a number of climbing-oriented books, and designed the {{ill|Big Bro|pl}} wide-crack climbing protection device–now manufactured by Trango–as part of obtaining his degree in Mechanical Engineering from Colorado State University,{{Cite web |title=Craig Luebben Memorial Service |url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/craig-luebben-memorial-service |access-date=2024-07-23 |website=www.thebmc.co.uk}} and was a senior contributing editor for Climbing Magazine.

Luebben made many first ascents in the United States and abroad, including China, Madagascar, Puerto Rico and France. Luebben was a mountain guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and instructor.{{Cite web |title=The Craig Luebben Education Fund |url=https://amga.com/donate-now/craig-luebben-fund/ |access-date=2024-07-23 |website=AMGA |language=en}}

"Craig was a 5.12 climber in that he could likely onsight any 5.12 on the planet."{{cite web|last=Shanti Pack|first=Pamela|title=Craig's List|url=http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/craigs_list/|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120501142807/http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/craigs_list/|archivedate=2012-05-01}}

Death

File:Mount Torment.jpg

Craig Luebben was killed on August 9, 2009, in an accident while climbing on Mount Torment in the Cascade Range of Washington.{{Cite web |last=Sedro-Woolley |first=Mailing Address: 810 State Route 20 |last2=Us |first2=WA 98284 Phone: 360 854-7200 Contact |title=Mountaineering Fatality in North Cascades National Park - North Cascades National Park (U.S. National Park Service) |url=https://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/news/mountaineering-fatality.htm |access-date=2024-07-23 |website=www.nps.gov |language=en}} A car-size block of ice calved off, taking Craig with it and resulting in a 30-foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope.{{cite web|last=MacDonald|first=Dougald|title=Craig Luebben Killed in North Cascades|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/passages/craig_luebben_killed_in_north_cascades/|accessdate=9 July 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120424070921/http://www.climbing.com/news/passages/craig_luebben_killed_in_north_cascades/|archivedate=24 April 2012}}

After his death, the American Mountain Guides Association established the Craig Luebben Education Fund in his honor to provide scholarships for new mountain guides.

Writing

Luebben's 2004 book, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, won that year's National Outdoor Book Award (Instructional).

=Published works=

  • A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock, Horsetooth Press, 1991, ASIN B000RJ3RFY
  • Knots for Climbers (1st & 2nd editions), The Globe Pequot Press, 1995 and 2001, {{ISBN|0-7627-1218-X}}
  • Advanced Rock Climbing, co-authored with John Long, The Globe Pequot Press, 1997, {{ISBN|1-57540-075-8}}
  • How to Climb: How to Ice Climb!, The Globe Pequot Press, 1999, {{ISBN|1-56044-760-5}}
  • How to Rappel!, The Globe Pequot Press, 2000, {{ISBN|1-56044-759-1}}
  • Go Climb!, North South Publications, 2001, {{ISBN|0-7566-1943-2}}
  • Betty And The Silver Spider: Welcome To Gym Climbing, Sharp End Publishing, 2002, {{ISBN|1-892540-22-3}}
  • Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, The Mountaineers Books 2004, {{ISBN|0-89886-743-6}}
  • Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, The Mountaineers Books, 2006, {{ISBN|1-59485-006-2}}

References

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