Desi pub
{{Short description|British pub owned by Indian landlord}}
A Desi pub is a British pub owned or managed by a landlord of Indian origin. They generally serve Punjabi food while maintaining traditional British pub elements, such as ale and pub games. The term "Desi" comes from Hindustani, and is derived from the Sanskrit word for "land" or "country". Desi pubs originated during the 1960s following widespread migration from the Indian subcontinent to the UK. They have been cited as a successful example of cultural integration between Asian and British communities.
History
File:The Blue Gates.jpg, visited by Malcolm X in 1965, later became a Desi pub.]]
The introduction of the British Nationality Act 1948 following the breakup of the British Empire and the end of the Second World War precipitated an increase in immigrants arriving in the United Kingdom from former Commonwealth nations. Between 1951 and 1971, it is estimated that the British Indian population grew from around 30,000 to around 483,000.{{cite journal|title=Indians in Great Britain|last=Schaefer|first=Richard T.|journal=International Review of Modern Sociology|volume=6|issue=2|year=1976|pages=305–327|jstor=41420610}} These new arrivals were not well received by some sections, and many establishments introduced colour bars, including some pubs which had separate "white" and "coloured" rooms.{{cite web|url=https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/desi-pubs|title=The Triumphant Story of Britain's Desi Pubs|author=Jesudason, David|work=Atlas Obscura|date=21 April 2022|access-date=12 May 2022}} In 1965, the human rights activist Malcolm X was invited by Avtar Singh Jouhl of the Indian Workers' Association to visit one such pub, the Blue Gates in Smethwick, near Birmingham, to experience this discrimination and protest against racial segregation in the town.{{Cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-birmingham-31417235|title=Malcolm X's visit to Smethwick remembered in pictures|date=12 February 2015|work=BBC News|access-date=13 May 2022}}
Three years earlier, the first known landlord of Asian origin in a British pub, Sohan Singh, had taken over the Durham Ox in Leicester. The brewery that owned the pub had chosen an Indian manager as many of its clientele were from multi-ethnic backgrounds. In 1968, Hans Raj Dhanjal became the first Indian publican in the Black Country when he leased the Heart of Oak, a Mitchells & Butlers pub in Whitmore Reans, Wolverhampton.{{cite news|id={{gale|A654114480}}|title=Birth of a cultural revolution|author=Cooper, David|date=7 March 2021|newspaper=Sunday Mercury|location=Birmingham, England|page=8}} These bars spread throughout the region during the 1970s, often taking over struggling traditional pubs and targeting them towards a new customer base.{{cite news|url=https://www.birminghammail.co.uk/whats-on/food-drink-news/punjabi-pub-signs-put-up-11891967|title=Punjabi signs to be put up at Desi pubs in Black Country|author=Bains, Sanjeeta|newspaper=Birmingham Mail|location=Birmingham, England|date=17 September 2016|access-date=12 May 2022}}{{cite web|url=https://www.artscouncil.org.uk/news/story-east-meets-west-midlands|title=A story of East meets West Midlands|publisher=Arts Council England|date=29 September 2016|access-date=12 May 2022}} They came to be known as Desi pubs; the term "Desi" is borrowed from Hindustani and is derived from the Sanskrit word for "land" or "country".{{cite web|url=https://www.pelliclemag.com/home/2021/5/31/desi-style-the-history-and-significance-of-englands-anglo-asian-pubs|title=Desi Style — The History and Significance of England's Anglo-Asian Pubs|author=Jesudason, David|work=Pellicle Magazine|date=2 June 2021|access-date=12 May 2022}}
File:Glassy Junction, Southall, UB1 (3106439813).jpg, a former Desi pub in Southall, west London, accepted payments in Indian rupees.]]
As the number of Desi pubs grew, several pubs which had previously been meeting places for racist groups such as the National Front or which had barred non-white customers eventually became Indian-owned, including the Blue Gates.{{cite news|url=https://www.economist.com/prospero/2016/08/22/raising-a-glass-to-britains-indian-pubs|title=Raising a glass to Britain's Indian pubs|author=R.V.|newspaper=The Economist|date=22 August 2016|access-date=12 May 2022}} {{subscription required}} Desi pubs also appeared further afield, including the Glassy Junction in Southall, west London, which accepted payments in Indian rupees as well as pounds sterling. Most modern Desi pubs are gastropubs, serving Punjabi dishes such as saag and chicken tikka and traditional British pub drinks such as beer and ale.{{cite news|id={{gale|A598190119}}|title=How 'desi' pubs are breathing life into city boozers|author=Bains, Sanjeeta|date=3 September 2019|newspaper=Birmingham Mail|location=Birmingham, England|page=14}} The pubs are popular among people from different communities, including Caribbean, Somali and Eastern European. As of 2016, there were more than fifty Desi pubs in the Black Country. In 2024, the food critic Jay Rayner wrote that Desi pubs "have now become symbols not of exclusion, but of inclusion".
In popular culture
In 2010, Desi pubs were the subject of a BBC Radio 4 documentary presented by the Punjabi DJ Bobby Friction. It explored how the pubs had helped to bring diverse communities in the West Midlands closer together, and commented on alcohol-related illness among South Asian men.{{cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2010/aug/10/desi-pubs-radio-review|title=Radio review: Desi Pubs|author=Mahoney, Elisabeth|work=The Guardian|date=10 August 2010|accessdate=12 May 2022}} Creative Black Country, an arts collaborative based in West Bromwich, collated an extensive body of media related to Desi pubs, including portrait photographs, pub signs and stained glass windows. Part of the collection was displayed at the Royal Festival Hall in 2016 as part of the Alchemy festival of South Asian culture, following which some of the signs and windows were installed in Desi pubs around the Black Country.
In his 2012 book on modern British history, Hope and Glory, the author and radio presenter Stuart Maconie called the Desi pub "one of the most welcome additions to the Midlands high streets" and described the combination of Indian food and British beer as "a delicious tableau of integration".{{cite book|title=Hope and Glory: A People's History of Modern Britain|author=Maconie, Stuart|author-link=Stuart Maconie|year=2012|publisher=Ebury Publishing|location=London, England|isbn=978-1-4090-0575-9|format=e-book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=61d0hgIarZEC}} In 2024, the Campaign for Real Ale commissioned a documentary, Desi: A Pub Story.{{Cite news |last=Rayner |first=Jay |author-link=Jay Rayner |date=2024-12-01 |title=Desi Yew Tree, Wolverhampton: ‘Part of the brilliance of Desi pub culture’ – restaurant review |url=https://www.theguardian.com/food/2024/dec/01/desi-yew-tree-wolverhampton-part-of-the-brilliance-of-desi-pub-culture-restaurant-review |access-date=2025-01-21 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077}}