Durag
{{Short description|Type of men's headscarf to maintain hair positioning}}
{{for-multi|the village in Poland|Durąg|the provinces in Iran|Durag, Iran (disambiguation)}}
{{More citations needed|date=December 2019}}
{{Infobox clothing type
| caption = American rapper Slim Thug wearing a durag
| type = Cap
| material = silk, satin, polyester, and cotton.
| location = United States
| introduced = 20th century
|title=Durag|image_file=Slim Thug wearing a do-rag.jpg}}
A durag (alternate spellings) is a close-fitting cloth tied around the top of the head to protect the hair; similarly a wave cap is a close-fitting cap for the same purpose. Durags may be worn to accelerate the development of long curly/kinky hair, waves or locks in the hair;{{citation | author=Tom Dalzell | entry=durag | title=The Routledge Dictionary of Modern American Slang and Unconventional English | publisher=Routledge | year=2009 | pages=308 | isbn=978-0-415-37182-7| author-link=Tom Dalzell }} to maintain natural oils in hair (similar to a bonnet); to stop hair breakage; to manage hair in general; or to keep hair, wave patterns and braids from shifting while sleeping. Durags are also worn as an identity-making fashion choice, popular in Black culture and African-American culture.
Spelling and etymology
Numerous alternative spellings exist for durag, including do-rag, dew-rag, and doo-rag, all of which may be spelled with a space instead of a hyphen, or with neither a hyphen nor a space. The simplest etymology for do-rag is that it is named as such because it is a rag worn to protect one's hairdo. However, one writer in The New York Times claims that the correct spelling of the word is durag.{{Cite news |last=Garcia |first=Sandra E. |date=2018-05-14 |title=The Durag, Explained |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/14/style/durag-solange-met-gala.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230404082218/https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/14/style/durag-solange-met-gala.html |archive-date=2023-04-04 |access-date=2021-03-29 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}} An alternative etymology claims that name should be spelled dew-rag, and dew is a euphemism for sweat.{{Cite web|url=https://listserv.linguistlist.org/pipermail/ads-l/2005-March/046931.html|title=Do-Rag (1966)|last=Preston|first=Dennis R.|date=23 March 2005|website=Lingualist|access-date=6 May 2019}}
=Early usage=
The Oxford English Dictionary dates the first published usage of "do-rag" to the 1964 Facing Reality pamphlet Negro Americans take the Lead,{{cite OED|do-rag|9165380679}} written by Martin Glaberman. The pamphlet noted that in the wake of the 1963 Detroit Walk to Freedom, "the leading local newspaper announced it would feature a one-a-week column by a prominent local Negro. Trying to be a laborer worthy of his hire, the prominent local figure wrote a column denouncing 'do-rags.' The common habit of wearing a silk stocking over the head, presumably to protect the setting, aroused his ire."{{cite book |title=Negro Americans take the Lead |chapter=American People and the American Crisis |pages=34–35 |publisher=Facing Reality |date=September 1964 |location=Highland Park, Michigan |last=Glaberman |first=Martin |author-link=Martin Glaberman |via=Adam Matthew Digital }}
Other early published usages include:
- In the August 27, 1965, edition of LIFE magazine, a page 22 photo caption describes a man wearing a {{"'}}do-rag' on his new hair-do".{{cite magazine |last1=Alexander |first1=Shana |title=Out of the Cauldron of Hate - Arson and Death |magazine=LIFE |date=27 August 1965 |page=22 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WFMEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA22 |access-date=13 September 2020}}
- On June 4, 1966, the Akron Beacon Journal printed "do rag ... a cloth band worn around the forehead as a sweatband or to keep hair in place".{{Cite web|title=The Akron Beacon Journal from Akron, Ohio on June 4, 1966 · Page 37|url=http://www.newspapers.com/newspage/152630510/|access-date=2021-03-29|website=Newspapers.com|date=4 June 1966 |language=en}}
- On September 2, 1966, the Dayton Daily News printed "the man with the black dew rag... one with the black bandana".{{Cite web|title=Dayton Daily News from Dayton, Ohio on September 2, 1966 · 4|url=http://www.newspapers.com/newspage/404489403/|access-date=2020-12-26|website=Newspapers.com|date=2 September 1966 |language=en}}
- In late 1966, "do rag ... processed hair done up in black rags" appeared in Newsweek.{{Cite web|title=" the do rag " - Google Search|url=https://www.google.com/search?q=%22+the+do+rag+%22&tbm=bks|access-date=2021-03-29|website=www.google.com}}
The Merriam-Webster online dictionary places the earliest usage of do-rag in 1968.{{Cite web|title=Definition of DO-RAG|url=https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/do-rag|access-date=2021-03-29|website=www.merriam-webster.com|language=en}}
History
In the 1930s, during the Harlem Renaissance and Great Depression, the durag was used to maintain hairstyles.{{cn|date=October 2024}}
During the Black Pride movement of the 1960s and '70s, durags became a fashion statement.{{cite book |last1=Shen |first1=Ann |title=Nevertheless, She Wore It: 50 Iconic Fashion Moments |date=2020 |publisher=Chronicle Books LLC |location=San Francisco |isbn=978-1452184012 |page=44}} In the 1990s, durags were further popularized by rappers like Jay-Z, Nelly, and 50 Cent. The popularity of rappers such as A$AP Ferg{{Cite web|last=Dawson|first=Lamar|title=How to Tie a Durag, According to A$AP Ferg|url=https://www.gq.com/story/how-to-tie-a-durag|access-date=2021-03-29|website=GQ|date=6 April 2018|language=en-us}} and the waves hairstyle have re-popularized the use of durags.{{cn|date=October 2024}}
In popular culture
File:Gza-01-mika.jpg wearing a durag in 2000]]
The 1974 song "Uncle Remus," cowritten by Frank Zappa and George Duke, includes the lyric, "I can't wait till my Fro is full-grown / I'll just throw 'way my Doo-Rag at home."{{cite web
|url=http://www.donlope.net/fz/lyrics/Apostrophe_(').html#Remus|title=Apostrophe('): Uncle Remus |last=García Albertos |first=Román |website=Information Is Not Knowledge |access-date=January 12, 2022}}
American singer and bassist Thundercat's album It Is What It Is features the song entitled "Dragonball Durag". The lyrics references the headwear as the title piece to impress women. The durag referenced has a pattern taken from popular Japanese television cartoon Dragon Ball.
Rapper Royce da 5'9" has a song on the 2020 album The Allegory entitled "Rhinestone Doo Rag".{{cn|date=October 2024}}
Rihanna wore a durag on the cover of the British Vogue, which marked a milestone of durags as seen as a fashion symbol.{{Cite web|date=2020-03-31|title=Rihanna makes history: 'Did I ever imagine that I would see a durag on the cover of Vogue?'|url=http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/mar/31/rihanna-makes-history-did-i-ever-imagine-that-i-would-see-a-durag-on-the-cover-of-vogue|access-date=2020-11-02|website=the Guardian|language=en}}
The character of Leon Black on Curb Your Enthusiasm is famous for wearing his durag on the show.{{Cite web|title=Is Leon Black on "Curb Your Enthusiasm" The Most Influential Durag Ambassador on TV?|url=https://duragwave.com/wavers-blog/is-leon-black-on-curb-your-enthusiasm-the-most-influential-durag-ambassador-on-tv/|access-date=2021-03-29|website=Durag Wave|language=en|archive-date=2021-04-21|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210421115212/https://duragwave.com/wavers-blog/is-leon-black-on-curb-your-enthusiasm-the-most-influential-durag-ambassador-on-tv/|url-status=dead}}
In 2021, contestant Symone wore an outfit with a durag, which extended to a train, on the thirteenth season of RuPaul's Drag Race.{{Cite web|title=Eliminations return as RuPaul's Drag Race celebrates cheesy holiday movies |first1=Kate |last1=Kulzick |url=https://www.avclub.com/eliminations-return-as-rupaul-s-drag-race-celebrates-ch-1846115263|access-date=2021-03-29|website=TV Club|date=23 January 2021 |language=en-us}}
The rapper Baby Keem, with a feature from Travis Scott, released a single in 2021 with the name "durag activity".
Kvarforth, frontman of the Swedish depressive suicidal black metal band Shining, is known to wear a durag as part of his onstage look, in contrast to the corpse paint traditionally synonymous with black metal.{{cn|date=October 2024}}
Bans and controversy
In 1995, the National Football League (NFL) considered banning players from wearing "bandanas, known as do-rags." League executive Gene Washington said durags were associated with crime and gang violence but insisted that the idea was "driven largely by black people, not white people." Safety Merton Hanks said that he wore one because it made his helmet fit better and was therefore akin to safety equipment. Ultimately, the league decided to take no action.{{cite news |title=The idea of an NFL ban on bandanas isn't sitting well with some players |url=https://apnews.com/article/288544907afa41cdca4cc9340f9c7b0a |access-date=6 May 2022 |work=AP News |agency=Associated Press |date=May 23, 1995 |language=en |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220506133149/https://apnews.com/article/288544907afa41cdca4cc9340f9c7b0a |archive-date= 6 May 2022 }} In 2001, however, the league owners voted 30–1 to ban players from wearing all headwear under helmets except for "skull caps" in what the league claimed was "a matter of image." Although there were concerns that the move may have been racially biased, the league again framed the ban as being originated by black members of their competition committee, including Denny Green.{{cite news |title=NFL to players . . . dump the do-rags |url=https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2001-04-03-0104030012-story.html |access-date=6 May 2022 |work=Chicago Tribune |date=April 3, 2001 |language=en |url-status=live |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20220506131841/https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-2001-04-03-0104030012-story.html|archive-date= 6 May 2022 }}{{cite news |last1=George |first1=Thomas |title=On Pro Football; Blacks at Center Stage in Rancorous Debate on Headgear |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2001/04/04/sports/on-pro-football-blacks-at-center-stage-in-rancorous-debate-on-headgear.html |url-access=subscription |access-date=6 May 2022 |work=The New York Times |date=4 April 2001}} Some players argued unsuccessfully that wearing durags under helmets helped them prevent hair loss.
During a preseason game in 2000, the National Basketball Association (NBA) told Indiana Pacers player Sam Perkins that he could not wear a durag because it was "a safety hazard."{{cite news |title=League notes |url=https://www.sportsbusinessjournal.com/Daily/Issues/2000/10/17/Leagues-Governing-Bodies/LEAGUE-NOTES.aspx |access-date=6 May 2022 |work=Sports Business Journal |date=October 17, 2000 |language=en |url-status=live |archive-url=https://archive.today/20240221215010/https://www.sportsbusinessjournal.com/Daily/Issues/2000/10/17/Leagues-Governing-Bodies/LEAGUE-NOTES.aspx |archive-date= 21 February 2024 }} In October 2005, the NBA issued a dress code which, among other changes, forbade players from wearing durags not just on the court but while engaged in any manner of team or league business.{{cite news |last1=MacLeod |first1=Robert |title=Do-rags done for in NBA code |url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/sports/do-rags-done-for-in-nba-code/article18250318/ |access-date=6 May 2022 |work=The Globe and Mail |date=18 October 2005 |language=en-CA |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220506140838/https://www.theglobeandmail.com/sports/do-rags-done-for-in-nba-code/article18250318/ |archive-date=6 May 2022 }}
Some United States high schools have attempted to ban the wearing of durags.{{cite web |last1=Rubio |first1=Karolena |title=Du-Rag Controversy Resolved |url=https://raidervoice.com/uncategorized/2018/12/13/du-rag-controversy-resolved/ |website=OuRCity News |publisher=The Raider Voice |access-date=15 July 2019 |page=1 |language=en |date=13 December 2018 |archive-date=30 November 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201130224930/https://raidervoice.com/uncategorized/2018/12/13/du-rag-controversy-resolved/ |url-status=dead }}{{cite web |last1=Miller |first1=Rann |title=A Charter School's Explanation for Banning Durags Is Worse Than the Ban |url=https://progressive.org/public-school-shakedown/charter-schools-explanation-for-banning-durags-worse-than-ban-180720/ |website=progressive.org |access-date=15 July 2019 |page=1 |language=en |date=20 July 2018}} When John Muir High School in Pasadena, California, banned durags as part of a school dress-code policy, the Black Student Union staged a peaceful walk-out in February 2019.{{Cite web|url=https://atlantablackstar.com/2019/02/26/california-high-school-students-stage-mass-walkout-over-policy-banning-durags/|title=California High School Students Stage Mass Walkout Over Policy Banning Durags|last=Kenney|first=Tanasia|date=26 February 2019|website=Atlanta Black Star |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230404103209/https://atlantablackstar.com/2019/02/26/california-high-school-students-stage-mass-walkout-over-policy-banning-durags/ |archive-date= Apr 4, 2023 }} Protesting students contended that school administrators banned the headwear because of its affiliation with gang culture, although the principal claimed that durags were banned because "of values we have for how we present ourselves at school".
See also
References
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