Edinburgh International Climbing Arena

File:Edinburgh International Climbing Arena 2010 292.JPG

Originally used for supplying stone to the Central Belt of Scotland due to its proximity to the Union Canal, the quarry expanded from around a third of its present size in 1853 to the current outline in 1895.{{cite web |url=http://nora.nerc.ac.uk/6930/1/EarthHeritageRathomaeb.pdf |title=Scaling the heights of your local geodiversity: The Edinburgh International Climbing Arena (EICA) |publisher=Natural Environment Research Council |first=Martin |last=Smith |first2=Mike |last2=Browne |access-date=2 February 2014}} Edinburgh climbers Rab Anderson, Duncan McCallum and architect David Taylor formed the Ratho Quarry Company, and purchased the quarry in 1995 as the site for the climbing centre.{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/edinburgh_and_east/6690625.stm |title=£30m climbing centre's rocky road |first=Jonathan |last=Lessware |work=BBC News |date=25 May 2007 |access-date=1 February 2014}}{{cite web |url=http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/ratho-adventure-centre |title=Ratho Climbing Wall, Edinburgh |publisher=edinburgharchitecture.co.uk |access-date=1 February 2014}} The quarry, which had been unused for around ninety years, was filled with compacted rubble and heavily overgrown with trees and shrubs, making assessment of the site difficult until significant work had been carried out, but the assumption that the floor of the quarry was flat proved to be correct. Plans unveiled in late 2001 showed the estimated cost to be {{GBP|7 million}}, with funding of {{GBP|1.5 million}} to come from a Sportscotland lottery fund grant.

The climbing centre is located in the smaller of two lobes of a figure of eight that make up the quarry.{{Google maps |url=https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=edinburgh+international+Climbing+Arena&ll=55.923453,-3.397173&spn=0.00183,0.005284&t=h&z=18 |access-date=1 February 2014}} After {{convert|250000|t}} of rubble was removed, the quarry was shown to have a broadly level floor and be almost {{convert|30|m}} deep. During construction in April 2002, the partially completed roof was ripped off in a storm.{{cite news |url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/scotland/top-stories/no-rock-solid-opening-date-for-climbers-1-866915 |title=No rock-solid opening date for climbers |date=29 May 2003 |work=The Scotsman |access-date=1 February 2014}}

When it opened in December 2003, the centre was the largest indoor climbing arena in the world, but problems during construction increased the final cost to {{GBP|22 million}}.{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/3047298.stm |title=Adventure sports climbing high |publisher=BBC News |date=5 July 2003 |access-date=31 January 2014}} In March 2004 the centre went into receivership due to a leaky roof, poor management, and a lack of money, leaving a number of contractors unpaid.{{cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37433 |title=Ratho Re-Opens |date=May 2007 |publisher=UKClimbing |access-date=1 February 2014 |first=Mick |last=Ryan}}{{cite news |url=http://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/climb-base-firms-won-t-get-a-penny-1-1019812 |title=Climb base firms 'won't get a penny' |work=The Scotsman |date=16 June 2004 |access-date=1 February 2014}} It was purchased by the City of Edinburgh Council in October 2005 for {{GBP|3.87 million}}, and then closed in August 2006 to allow full completion of the venue.{{cite news |url=http://news.stv.tv/east-central/216719-council-faces-550000-roof-bill-for-edinburgh-international-climbing-arena/ |title=Council faces £550,000 bill to replace roof on climbing centre |work=STV News |date=7 March 2013 |access-date=1 February 2014}}{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/4228540.stm |title=Centre climbs out of money woes |work=BBC News |date=9 September 2005 |access-date=1 February 2014}}{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/edinburgh_and_east/6689179.stm |title=Climb centre reopens after refit |work=BBC News |date=25 May 2007 |access-date=1 February 2014}}

It reopened on 25 May 2007, under the management of Edinburgh Leisure, a non-profit organisation which provides sport and leisure facilities on behalf of the City of Edinburgh Council. {{GBP|6 million}} was spent overhauling the roof, the plumbing, improving the car park and converting an unopened scuba diving tank into a dedicated bouldering room. Under new management, more emphasis was placed on making the centre accessible to families and visitors as well as experienced climbers. The roof, consisting of {{convert|8500|sqm}} of tensioned fabric, was replaced at the end of 2013 at a cost of around {{GBP|500,000}}.{{cite web|url=http://www.basestructures.com/us/in-the-news/news/edinburgh-international-climbing-arena-press-release.html |title=City of Edinburgh Council selects Base for 6 figure membrane roof contract for the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |publisher=Base Structures |access-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203114827/http://www.basestructures.com/us/in-the-news/news/edinburgh-international-climbing-arena-press-release.html |archive-date=3 February 2014}}

File:Edinburgh International Climbing Arena 2010 296.JPG

There are over 15,000 bolt-on holds in the centre, with 300 routes ranging in difficulty from grades 2 to 8b.{{cite web |url=http://www.eica-ratho.co.uk/facilities/climbing-arena-0 |title=Climbing Arena |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014}}{{cite news |url=http://www.scotsman.com/news/biggest-climbing-wall-is-finally-on-the-up-1-881018 |title=Biggest climbing wall is finally on the up |date=29 May 2003 |work=The Scotsman |access-date=1 February 2014}} There are a variety of lead and top rope walls at the centre ranging from 6 to 28 metres. In December 2024 new bouldering facilities were opened replacing the original trio of boulders in the centre of the main hall, these will allow the centre to hold World cup level bouldering events. There is also a dedicated bouldering room, with routes ranging in difficulty from V0 to V15.{{cite web |url=http://www.eica-ratho.co.uk/facilities/bouldering-room. In December 2024 new bouldering facilities were added to the arena allowing World Cup level bouldering events to be hosted at the centre. |title=Bouldering Room |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014}}

The only official world record International Federation of Sport Climbing speed climbing walls has two identical speed routes allow speed climbing competitions to be conducted head to head, and there is an articulated competition wall known as "The Hanger" that can be raised or lowered to change the angle of overhang.{{cite web|url=http://www.wyc-2010.com/content/arena-walls/2858/ |title=Arena Walls |publisher=wyc-2010 |access-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203141819/http://www.wyc-2010.com/content/arena-walls/2858/ |archive-date=3 February 2014}}

The larger "lobe" of the quarry is also used for outdoor climbing, although some of the rock is described as "loose and scary". Formed from dolerite, there are around 65 known routes, including many central belt classics such as Shear Fear (E2 5b) and Wally I (E2 5C).{{cite web |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12 |title=Ratho Quarry |publisher=UKClimbing |access-date=1 February 2014}}{{cite web |url=https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Ratho_Quarry |title=Ratho Quarry |publisher=scottishclimbs.com |access-date=1 February 2014}}

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There is a cafe overlooking the main arena as well as smaller cafe on the ground floor.{{cite web |url=http://www.eica-ratho.co.uk/facilities |title=Facilities |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014}} The centre has a fully equipped gym.{{cite web |url=http://www.eica-ratho.com/content/gym/1132/ |title=Gym |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121113020833/http://www.eica-ratho.com/content/gym/1132 |archive-date=13 November 2012}} Other classes are held in the Fitness Studio.{{cite web |url=http://www.eica-ratho.co.uk/facilities/fitness-class-studio |title=Fitness Class Studio |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014}}

The centre also has a softplay with a café called Scrambles for children aged around 0-10 . The centre also houses Scottish National Judo Academy, and Canoe Scotland's Sprint Performance programme.

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File:Edinburgh International Climbing Arena 2010 530.JPG

EICA hosted the UIAA-ICC Boulder & Lead World Cup in December 2003, the IFSC World Cup Lead and Speed in September 2017,{{cite web |url=http://www.raremanagement.co.uk/ratho_world_cup_finals.htm |title=Ratho UIAA-ICC Climbing World Cup Finals |publisher=Rare Management |access-date=18 March 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060507073055/http://www.raremanagement.co.uk/ratho_world_cup_finals.htm|archive-date=7 May 2006}} the IFSC European Championship (Lead and Speed) in October 2019,{{cite web |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/10/ifsc_european_lead_and_speed_championships_edinburgh_-_report-72095 |title=IFSC European Lead and Speed Championships Edinburgh - Report |publisher=UK Climbing |access-date=13 March 2023}} and the 13th event of the IFSC World Cup series from 9 to 11 September 2022.{{cite web |url=https://www.edinburghleisure.co.uk/news/ifscworldcupseries |title=EICA: Ratho, Edinburgh to host IFSC World Cup Series |publisher=Edinburgh Leisure |access-date=13 March 2023}}

The centre also hosted the IFSC World Youth Championship in 2004 and 2010,{{cite web |url=http://www.raremanagement.co.uk/ratho_youth_champs.htm |title=Ratho UIAA-ICC World Youth Climbing Championships |publisher=Rare Management |access-date=1 February 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060507073024/http://www.raremanagement.co.uk/ratho_youth_champs.htm|archive-date=7 May 2006}}{{cite web|url=http://www.wyc-2010.com/ |title=IFSC World Youth Championships 2010 |publisher=Edinburgh International Climbing Arena |access-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203131807/http://www.wyc-2010.com/ |archive-date=3 February 2014}} The European Youth Championships in 2015, and the European Youth Cup 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014.

At a national level the British Lead Climbing Championships and the Youth Climbing Series Grand Final have been held alternately at the centre since 2008.{{cite news|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/british-lead-and-speed-climbing-championships-2013 |first=Rob |last=Adie |title=British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships 2013 |work=British Mountaineering Council |date=6 September 2013 |access-date=1 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203002229/https://www.thebmc.co.uk/british-lead-and-speed-climbing-championships-2013 |archive-date=3 February 2014}}{{cite news |url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64041 |publisher=UK Climbing |date=September 2011 |title=First ever British Speed Climbing Championships |access-date=1 February 2014}}

In the Edinburgh International Festival 2013, Leaving Planet Earth used the centre as the stage.{{cite news |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-23574868 |title=Edinburgh International Festival leaves planet Earth |first=Steven | last=Brocklehurst |work=BBC News |date=9 August 2013 |access-date=1 February 2014}}

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On 20 April 2015 the Scottish National Party held their manifesto launch for the 2015 general election in the main climbing arena.

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• {{Official website|http://www.eica-ratho.co.uk/}}

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Category:2003 establishments in Scotland

Category:Climbing areas of Scotland

Category:Sports venues in Edinburgh

Category:Indoor climbing venues