Eiko Ishioka

{{short description|Japanese artist and costume designer (1938-2012)}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=March 2016}}

{{Infobox artist

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| name = Eiko Ishioka

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| image = Eiko Ishioka.jpg

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| caption = Eiko Ishioka by Brigitte Lacombe

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| birth_date = {{Birth date|1938|7|12}}

| birth_place = Tokyo, Japan

| death_date = {{Death date and age|2012|1|21|1938|7|12}}

| death_place = Tokyo, Japan

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| known_for = Art direction, costume design, graphic design

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| spouse = {{marriage|Nicholas Soultanakis|2011}}

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| awards = Grammy Award for artwork, Academy Award for Best Costume Design, Costume Designers Guild Award

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{{Nihongo|Eiko Ishioka|石岡 瑛子|Ishioka Eiko|July 12, 1938 – January 21, 2012}} was a Japanese art director, costume designer, and graphic designer known for her work in stage, screen, advertising, and print media.{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/27/arts/design/eiko-ishioka-designer-dies-at-73.html|title=Eiko Ishioka, Multifaceted Designer and Oscar Winner, Dies at 73|work=The New York Times|access-date=January 27, 2012|first=Margalit|last=Fox|date=January 26, 2012}}{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/theater-dance/costume-designer-eiko-ishioka-recently-known-for-broadways-spider-man-has-died-at-73/2012/01/26/gIQAyZhgTQ_story.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120205143125/http://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/theater-dance/costume-designer-eiko-ishioka-recently-known-for-broadways-spider-man-has-died-at-73/2012/01/26/gIQAyZhgTQ_story.html |archive-date=February 5, 2012 |title=Costume designer Eiko Ishioka, recently known for Broadway's 'Spider-Man,' has died at 73 |newspaper=The Washington Post |access-date=January 27, 2012 |url-status=dead}}

Noted for her advertising campaigns for the Japanese boutique chain Parco, she collaborated with sportswear company Descente in designing uniforms and outerwear for members of the Swiss, Canadian, Japanese, and Spanish teams at the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City{{cite news |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2002/01/20/magazine/the-way-we-live-now-01-20-02-gallery-design-in-the-zone-outerwear.html |first=Chee |last=Pearlman |title=The Way We Live Now: In-the-Zone Outerwear |access-date=March 21, 2016 |work=The New York Times Magazine |date=January 20, 2002}} and was the director of costume design for the opening ceremony of the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing. She won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for her work in Francis Ford Coppola's 1992 romantic-horror film Bram Stoker's Dracula, which was based on Bram Stoker's 1897 novel, and received a

posthumous nomination in the same category for her work in Tarsem Singh's 2012 fantasy comedy film Mirror Mirror.{{cite news|title=The genius of Eiko Ishioka|url=http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/HEzBPPdw0TVk2mAKcsaO9N/The-genius-of-Eiko-Ishioka.html|access-date=February 22, 2013|newspaper=HT Mint|date=February 22, 2013}}

Life and career

Ishioka was born in Tokyo to a commercial graphic designer father and a housewife mother. Although her father encouraged her interest in art as a child, he discouraged her desire to follow him into the business.{{cite news|title=Eiko Ishioka obituary|url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/jan/29/eiko-ishioka|access-date=February 22, 2013|newspaper=The Guardian|date=January 29, 2012|location=London|first=Veronica|last=Horwell}} She graduated from the Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music.{{cite journal|title=The Image Maker|journal=W Magazine|date=April 2012|url=http://www.wmagazine.com/artdesign/2012/04/eiko-ishioka-late-costume-designer-and-art-director|access-date=February 22, 2013|archive-date=January 14, 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130114151945/http://www.wmagazine.com/artdesign/2012/04/eiko-ishioka-late-costume-designer-and-art-director|url-status=dead}} As director of costume design for opening ceremony of 2008 Beijing Olympics, Ishioka found inspiration from art pieces such as Greek statues and African helmets. As a result, a large number of costumes that are able to visualize fabric texture, actions, and aura were designed under her hands.{{vague|reason=I can't actively tell what this sentence is trying to say.|date=July 2020}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.library.ucla.edu/news/trailblazer-provocateur-visionary|title=UCLA Library News {{!}} UCLA Library|website=www.library.ucla.edu|access-date=2019-03-22|archive-date=January 27, 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220127155740/https://www.library.ucla.edu/news/trailblazer-provocateur-visionary|url-status=dead}}

Advertising career

Ishioka began her career with the advertising division of the cosmetics company Shiseido in 1961 and won Japan's most prestigious advertising award four years later. Ishioka was discovered by Tsuji Masuda who created Parco Ikebukuro from the ailing Marubutsu Department Store. When Parco did well and expanded to a Shibuya location in 1973, Ishioka designed Parco Shibuya's first 15-second commercial for the grand opening with "a tall, thin black woman, dressed in a black bikini, dancing with a very small man in a Santa Claus outfit". She became deeply involved in Parco's image. Her last Parco campaign involved Faye Dunaway as "face of Parco" wearing black, on a black chair against a black wall, and peeling and eating an egg in one minute as "a film for Parco."The Brothers by Leslie Downer pp 239–240{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLoyu9PcmBc |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/yLoyu9PcmBc |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|title=Kazumi Kurigami - Parco - Faye Dunaway Hard Boiled Egg|via=YouTube|access-date=July 11, 2017}}{{cbignore}} She became its chief art director in 1971 and her work there is noted for several campaigns featuring Faye Dunaway and for its open and surreal eroticism. In 1983 she ended her association with Parco and opened her own design firm.

In 2003, she designed the logo for the Houston Rockets.{{cite web|url=http://www.nba.com/rockets/news/The_Next_BIG_Thing-79841-34.html|title=The Next BIG Thing|publisher=Houston Rockets|access-date=August 26, 2012}}{{cite web|url=http://www.chron.com/CDA/archives/archive.mpl?id=2003_3692266|title=Red's in fashion again / Web sales put Rockets' sleek new look before public|work=Houston Chronicle|access-date=August 26, 2012}}

Film career

In 1985 director Paul Schrader chose Ishioka to be the production designer for his 1985 film Mishima: A Life in Four Chapters. Her work went on to win her a special award for artistic contribution at the Cannes Film Festival that year.{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=27 January 2012|title=Oscar-winning costume designer Eiko Ishioka dies|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-16755861|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170707091711/http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-16755861 |archive-date=July 7, 2017 |access-date=3 February 2021|website=bbc}} Ishioka's work with Francis Ford Coppola on the poster for the Japanese release of Apocalypse Now led to their later collaboration in Coppola's Dracula, which earned Ishioka an Academy Award. Ishioka also worked on four of Tarsem Singh's films, beginning with the Jennifer Lopez starrer The Cell in 2000 and including The Fall, Immortals, and Mirror Mirror.

Ishioka also designed costumes for theater and the circus. In 1999 she designed costumes for Richard Wagner's Der Ring des Nibelungen at the Dutch Opera. She designed costumes for Cirque du Soleil: Varekai, which premiered in 2002 as well as for Julie Taymor's Broadway musical Spider-Man: Turn Off the Dark, which premiered in 2011. She also directed the music video for Björk's "Cocoon" in 2002 and designed costumes for the "Hurricane" tour of singer Grace Jones in 2009.

Ishioka's work is included in the permanent collection of museums throughout the world, including the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Awards

Ishioka won a Grammy Award for Best Recording Package for her artwork for Miles Davis's album Tutu in 1987 and an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Bram Stoker's Dracula in 1992.{{Cite web|last=Hirschberg|first=Lynn|date=1 April 2012|title=The Late Eiko Ishioka Was a Costume Designer, Art Director, and Provocateur|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/eiko-ishioka-late-costume-designer-and-art-director/|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180514125547/https://www.wmagazine.com/story/eiko-ishioka-late-costume-designer-and-art-director |archive-date=May 14, 2018 |access-date=3 February 2021|website=W Magazine}} She also received two Tony Award nominations in 1988 for the stage and costume design of the Broadway play M. Butterfly.{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=10 May 1988|title=List of Nominations for 1988 Tony Awards With PM-Tony Nominations|url=https://apnews.com/article/6242870ac28374642ce34f0261db8987|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220127155729/https://apnews.com/article/6242870ac28374642ce34f0261db8987 |archive-date=January 27, 2022 |access-date=3 February 2021|website=AP News}} In 2012, she was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Mirror Mirror and won the CDG Award for Excellence in Fantasy Film. In 1992 she was selected to be a member of the New York Art Directors Club Hall of Fame. On July 12, 2017, she was honored with a Google Doodle.{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7t2kUxFdBA |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211221/h7t2kUxFdBA |archive-date=2021-12-21 |url-status=live|title=Eiko Ishioka (石岡瑛子) Google Doodle|last=Rajamanickam Antonimuthu|date=July 11, 2017|via=YouTube}}{{cbignore}}

Filmography

Books

The 1990 book Eiko by Eiko collects her work in art direction and graphic design.{{cite web|title=Eiko by Eiko|url=http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/674934.Eiko_by_Eiko|access-date=February 22, 2013}} A second book, "Eiko on Stage", followed in 2000.{{cite book|title=Eiko on Stage|isbn = 9780935112535|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=189qQgAACAAJ|access-date=February 22, 2013|last1 = Ishioka|first1 = Eiko|last2 = Coppola|first2 = Francis Ford|year = 2000}}

Death

Ishioka died of pancreatic cancer in Tokyo on January 21, 2012.{{cite web | url = http://asiapacificarts.usc.edu/w_apa/showarticle.aspx?articleID=17877&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 | title = Costume designer Eiko Ishioka Dies at 73 | publisher = Asia Pacific Arts | date = January 27, 2012 | access-date = February 1, 2012 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160116133533/http://asiapacificarts.usc.edu/w_apa/showarticle.aspx?articleID=17877&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 | archive-date = January 16, 2016 | url-status = dead | df = mdy-all }} She married her companion Nicholas Soultanakis in hospital a few months before her death.

Legacy

Her archive has been given to UCLA Library Special Collections.{{Cite web|url=http://www.laacollective.org/work/eiko-ishioka/|title=Eiko Ishioka|last=Haley|first=Melissa|date=2018-02-13|website=Los Angeles Archivists Collective|access-date=2019-01-23}}

References

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