Enchainment
{{short description|Mountaineering term to link up routes}}
{{for|the French linguistic phenomenon|enchaînement}}
File:Fitz Roy Chalten Argentina Todor Bozhinov 2013.jpg and Tommy Caldwell won the Piolet d'Or in 2015 for their enchainment of the entire Fitzroy Massif in a 5-day push]]
In mountaineering and climbing, enchainment (an anglicisation of the French word {{wikt-lang|fr|enchaînement}}, meaning "linking") is climbing two or more mountains or climbing routes on a mountain in one outing (often over the course of a day or a series of days). Rock climbing two or more routes in this manner are also called a "link up" in the United States. Climbers may do an enchainment of easy routes as a way of training for a more difficult objective, but some enchainments of hard routes are a prize in their own right, a notable example being the great north faces of the Alps.
In alpinism
By the 1970s, the number of possible new routes in the Alps seemed to be drying up, and so alpinists looked for other challenges. Developments in hang glider and paraglider technology, as well as advances in extreme skiing and the use of helicopters, meant that mountains could be descended much more quickly than they could by foot, making possible enchainments of long and difficult face routes. Early practitioners of this style of climbing were predominantly French, the most notable being Jean-Marc Boivin, {{ill|Christophe Profit|fr}}, and Jean-Christophe Lafaille.[http://jeanmarcboivin.free.fr/enchainements.htm Jean-Marc BOIVIN: ENCHAINEMENTS], jeanmarcboivin.free.fr, retrieved 4 October 2010
- In August 1975 Nicolas Jaeger (who had made the first solo traverse of the {{ill|Chamonix Aiguilles|fr|Aiguilles de Chamonix}} in 1973{{cite magazine |last1= |first1= |title= INFO: The Alps |url= | journal= Mountain |volume= |issue= 30 |pages = 12 |publisher= Mountain Magazine Ltd. |date= November 1973 | issn = 0964-3427 }}) accomplished the first solo ascent of the Bonatti-Gobbi route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle, descended to the Upper Freney Glacier and then made the second solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney, thereby reaching the summit of Mont Blanc over 17 hours.{{cite journal | last1= Rebuffat |first1=Gaston |title=In Memoriam:Nicolas Jaeger | page= 264-265 | journal= Alpine Journal |volume= 87 |issue= 331 | url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1982_files/AJ%201982%20261-272%20In%20Memoriam.pdf#page=4|date=1982 |access-date=31 March 2024 }}{{cite journal | last1= Griffin |first1=Lindsay |title=Above the Val de Bagnes | page= 197-200 | journal= Alpine Journal |volume= 102 |issue= 346 | isbn=9780948153433 |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20197-200%20Griffin%20Bagnes.pdf#page=2 |date=1996 |access-date=31 March 2024 }} That achievement has led to him being referred to as "the inventor of modern enchainments".{{cite web |last1=Ferrari |first1=Ivo |title= Loretan and Georges' Imperial Crown, merely the thought inspires |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/loretan-and-georges-imperial-crown-merely-the-thought-inspires.html | website= Planet Mountain | publisher= |date=15 January 2016 |access-date=31 March 2024 }}
- On 17 March 1986, Boivin, using skis, a paraglider, and a hang glider for his descents, linked up ascents of the north faces of the Aiguille Verte, Les Droites, Les Courtes, and the Grandes Jorasses, flying {{convert|15|km|abbr=on}} back to the Chamonix valley after his final ascent and arriving at 0:30 am.Mark Twight, [https://books.google.com/books?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC&dq=boivin+everest&pg=PA33 Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber], The Mountaineers Books, 2002, p. 33
- From 11 to 12 March 1987, Profit was the first to climb the three hardest of the six great Alpine north faces, "the Trilogy", (the Eiger, the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses) in under 24 hours.
- In April 1996, Lafaille made a 15-day solo enchainment of ten classic alpine faces, including routes on the Eiger, and the Matterhorn.{{cite journal | journal=American Alpine Club | url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199610300/The-Grand-Voyage-A-Solo-Enchainment-of-10-Alpine-Faces-in-15-Days | date=1996 | volume=38 | issue=70 | title=The Grande Voyage: A solo enchainment o f 10 Alpine faces in 15 days | first=Jean-Christophe | last=Lafaille | accessdate=24 December 2022 | pages=104–112}}
In rock climbing
- In 1986, John Bachar and Peter Croft made the first link-up of routes on El Capitan and Half Dome in Yosemite in a single day.{{cite web | magazine=Outside | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | date=1 June 2016 | accessdate=4 December 2022 | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | author=Editorial}}
- In 2014, over a 5-day period, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell completed the first-ever full enchainment, The Fitz Roy Traverse (5.11d C1 65 degrees, 5000m), on the Fitz Roy massif, in Patagonia.{{cite web | magazine=Rock & Ice | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/honnold-and-caldwell-complete-first-ascent-of-fitz-traverse/ | title=Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse | date=2014 | accessdate=24 December 2022}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14w/newswire-fitz-traverse-caldwell-honnold|title=Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse – Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|date=18 February 2014 }}
In mountaineering
- In May 2008, Japanese climbers Katsutaka Yokoyama, Yusuke Sato, and Fumitaka Ichimura, completed the enchainment on Mount Denali of the Isis Face (M4 5.8 A1, 60 degrees, 7,200-feet [to South Buttress], Stutzman-Tackle, 1982), and the Slovak Direct (5.9, 100 degrees, 9,000-feet, Adam-Korl-Krizo, 1984), in a single, eight-day push.{{cite web | magazine=alpinist | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-giri-denali-linkup | first=Christian | last=Backwidth | date=27 May 2008 | accessdate=24 December 2022 | title=Historic Enchainment on Denali}}