Eric Langmuir
{{Short description|Scottish mountaineer and educationalist}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Eric Duncan Grant Langmuir
| image =
| image_size =
| caption =
| nationality =
| birth_date = {{birth date|df=y|1931|05|03}}
| birth_place = Glasgow, Scotland
| death_date = {{death date and age|df=y|2005|09|18|1931|05|03}}
| death_place = Scotland
| spouse = Maureen Lyons (m.1957)
| children = 4, including olympians Sean (1992 Winter Olympics) and Roddy (1980 Winter Olympics)
| occupation = mountaineer, educationalist
| awards = MBE (1986), FRSE (1978)
| notable_works = Author of Mountaincraft and Leadership
| known for = Principal of Glenmore Lodge National Outdoor Training Centre, Aviemore.
{{Plainlist|
- First ascent of Spartan Slab, Trilleachan Slabs, Glen Etive, 1954
- First ascent of The Mole, Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass, Wales, 1961{{cite book | title = Llanberis Pass | date=1994| first = Paul| last = Williams | isbn =9780901601537 |publisher =Climbers Club }}
}}
}}
Eric Duncan Grant Langmuir MBE FRSE (3 May 1931 – 18 September 2005) was a Scottish mountaineer and educationalist.
Education
Langmuir attended the independent school Fettes College in Edinburgh (1943–1950) and, after national service, Peterhouse, Cambridge, where he read natural sciences (Geology, Zoology and Physiology) from 1952 to 1955. Whilst at Cambridge he joined the Cambridge University mountaineering club (CUMC), later becoming its president (1954–55).{{cite news | title = Obituary: Eric Langmuir | work =The Guardian| date= 27 September 2005| first =Ed | last = Douglas | access-date = 26 April 2024 |url = https://www.theguardian.com/news/2005/sep/27/guardianobituaries.mainsection }}
Climbing
In 1954, he established the first modern rock climbing routes on the "Etive Slabs" on Beinn Trilleachan when he went with Mike O'Hara and others "to investigate a report that Eric's father had given of some rocks on Beinn Trilleachan that he had spotted when fishing on the loch and which might be of interest. They made the first ascent of "Sickle" and of "Spartan Slab" (the latter a 3-star classic climb at VS 4c). In 1958, he led a group of climbers from Cambridge University to Wintour's Leap in Gloucestershire, where they discovered the then unclimbed "North Wall"; the routes they established on that wall almost doubled the number of climbs on Wintour's Leap and were several grades harder than any of the existing climbs there.{{cite book | title = Wye Valley. Volume 1 Wintour's Leap / Symonds Yat Western Cliffs | date=1977| first1 = John| last1 = Willson | first2 =David |last2 =Hope | isbn =9780904405064 |publisher =Cordee |pages= 17 }} His alpine climbing included the first British ascent of the NE face of the Piz Badile in 1955.{{cite journal | title = In good hands, 1955: A tribute to Eric Langmuir | journal =Scottish Mountaineeering Club Journal| date= 2006| first =Ted | last = Maden | volume =#39 | issue =197 | pages= 273–276 | access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://simrich.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/SMCJ/Number%20197%20-%20Vol%2039%20-%202006%20Reduced.pdf#page=39 }}{{cite journal | title = Expeditions: three climbs in 1955 | journal =Alpine Journal| issn=0065-6569| date=1956| first =Alan| last = Blackshaw | volume =#61 | pages=385–386 | access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1956_files/AJ61%201956%20381-386%20Expeditions.pdf#page=5 }}
Career
After graduation he worked as an exploration geologist in Canada from 1956 to 1958. Soon after his return to the UK he was appointed as Principal of the White Hall Centre for Open Country Pursuits,{{cite web | title = History of White Hall | website =Derbyshire Council| access-date = 26 April 2024 |url = https://www.derbyshire.gov.uk/education/outdoor-learning/white-hall/about/history/history-of-white-hall.aspx }} near Buxton, (1959-63) which had been established in 1951 by Sir Jack Longland (in his role as Director of Education for Derbyshire).{{cite web | title = White Hall: Our Story | date = 14 December 2023 | url = https://whitehall.derbyshire-outdoors.org/our-story/ }} The centre employed a number of Britain's leading climbers as instructors{{cite book | title = The Story of White Hall Centre: Outdoor Education across the Decades | date=2018| first = Pete | last = McDonald | isbn= 978-0473425272 |publisher =Bookpoint }} and Langmuir appointed Joe Brown as the chief instructor.{{cite book | title = The Hard Years | date=1967| first = Joe| last = Brown | publisher =Gollancz |pages= 151 }}
From 1963 to 1969 he was the Principal of Glenmore Lodge Outdoor Centre near Aviemore.{{cite book | title = Creagh Dhu Climber: The Life and Times of John Cunningham | date=1999| first = Jeff| last = Connor | isbn= 9780948153549 |publisher =Ernest Press |pages=172 }} Prior to his appointment, Glenmore was known for hosting residential courses for schoolchildren, but under Langmuir's influence its focus moved towards providing specialised training in mountain skills, particularly for aspiring mountain leaders. His responsibilities at Glenmore included mountain rescue, and he was leader of the Glenmore rescue team from 1963 to 1969 and also became rescue co-ordinator for the northern Cairngorms.{{cite journal | title = In Memoriam: Eric Duncan Grant Langmuir MBE, 1931-2005 | journal =Alpine Journal| issn=0065-6569| date=2006| first =John | last = Peacock | volume =#111 |issue= 355 | pages=373–405 | access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2006_files/AJ%202006%20373-405%20In%20Memoriam.pdf#page=18 }} He later became a member of the Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotland and was its chairman from 1968.
After his stint at Glenmore, he was appointed to set up an outdoor education unit at Moray House{{cite journal | title = A history of outdoor education at Dunfermline College of Physical Education and Moray House College and Institute of Education, Edinburgh – 1970-2000 | journal =Horizons| date= 2000| first1 =Neville| last1 = Crowther | first2 = John | last2 = Cheesmond | first3 = Peter | last3 = Higgins | issue = 7 | pages= 18–23 | issn=1462-0677 |access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = http://www.docs.hss.ed.ac.uk/education/outdoored/crowther_cheesmond_higgins_history.pdf }}{{cite web | title = Our History – Moray House | website =University of Edinburgh| date= 24 January 2023| access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://www.ed.ac.uk/education/institutes/etl/outdoor-environmental/aboutus/our-history }} in Edinburgh, where he worked from 1970 to 1975 and became a senior lecturer. Whilst there he published the first of his papers relating to snow conditions and avalanche risk, work he had started whilst at Glenmore,{{cite journal | title = Snow Profiles in Scotland | journal =Weather| date= 1970| first =Eric | last = Langmuir | volume =#25| issue= 5 | pages= 203–209 | doi =10.1002/j.1477-8696.1970.tb03262.x| bibcode =1970Wthr...25..205L| access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://rmets.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/j.1477-8696.1970.tb03262.x }} that and a following publication{{cite journal | title = Snow Profiles and Avalanche Activity in the Cairngorm Mountains, Scotland | journal =Journal of Glaciology| date= 1985| first =Eric | last = Langmuir | volume = 31 | issue=107 | pages= 18–27 | doi =10.3189/S0022143000004949| access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/A688879DD0A7973FD66C90001FC38EE5/S0022143000004949a.pdf/snow_profiles_and_avalanche_activity_in_the_cairngorm_mountains_scotland.pdf }} established a framework for a better understanding of avalanche risk in the Scottish mountains.
In 1976, he became Assistant Director of the Lothian Department of Leisure Service, where his responsibilities included the Hillend ski centre, which had been opened ten years earlier as Britain's largest artificial ski centre, a new sailing training centre at Port Edgar and the setting-up of the Pentland Hills Regional Park.
Work in mountain training and safety
Whilst at White Hall he joined the Mountain Leadership working party under Longland (1962–64). One outcome was the establishment of a training programme for the Mountain Leadership Certificate, and by late 1964 that programme was fully operational in England.{{cite book | title = The First Fifty Years of the British Mountaineering Council | date=1997| editor-last1 =Milburn | editor-first1 = Geoff | editor-last2 = Walker | editor-first2 =Derek | editor-last3 =Wilson | editor-first3 = Ken | isbn = 9780903908078 |publisher =British Mountaineering Council |pages= 37 }} When the Scottish Mountain Leader Training Board was formed in 1964, Langmuir became a leading member.{{cite news | title = Eric Langmuir Former principal of Glenmore Lodge outdoor centre | work =The Herald| date= 27 September 2005| access-date = 26 April 2024 |url = https://www.heraldscotland.com/news/12478126.eric-langmuir-former-principal-of-glenmore-lodge-outdoor-centre/ }}
Langmuir was asked to initiate and edit a new handbook for all those taking part in the Board's training schemes, and the resulting book, Mountaincraft and Leadership, was first published in 1969.{{cite book |last=Langmuir |first=Eric |title=Mountain leadership: The official handbook of the Mountain Leadership Training Boards of Great Britain |publisher=Scottish Council of Physical Recreation | pages=88|isbn=9780950081328|year=1969}} Later editions of the book, which included a refinement Naismith's rule, were jointly published by the Scottish Sports Council (later to become SportScotland) and the Mountain Leader Training Board,{{cite book |last=Langmuir |first=Eric |title=Mountaincraft and Leadership: A Handbook for Mountaineers and Hillwalking Leaders in the British Isles |publisher=Scottish Sports Council|pages =362 |isbn=9780903908757|year=1984|edition=2nd | url=https://archive.org/details/mountaincraftlea0000lang| access-date=23 April 2024}}{{cite book |last=Langmuir |first=Eric |title=Mountaincraft and Leadership: A Handbook for Mountaineers and Hillwalking Leaders in the British Isles |publisher=Britain & Scottish Sports Council|pages =362 |location=Edinburgh Scotland|isbn=9781850602958|year=1995|edition=3rd | url=https://archive.org/details/mountaincraftlea0000lang_e3e7| access-date=23 April 2024}} more than 150,000 copies of those first three editions were sold. In 2013, after his death a fourth, revised, edition was published.{{cite book |last=Langmuir |first=Eric |title=Mountaincraft and Leadership: A Handbook for Mountaineers and Hillwalking Leaders in the British Isles |pages=453 |publisher=Mountain Training Boards of England and Scotland |year=2013 |isbn=9780956886903|edition=4th|url=https://archive.org/details/mountaincraftlea0000lang_n5y0|access-date=23 April 2024 }} The book remains in print 20 years after his death and is "the indispensable bible for all who would take parties of young people into the hills".
Whilst he was at Glenmore Lodge, Langmuir and Fred Harper (who succeeded Langmuir as principal at Glenmore), along with Hamish MacInnes, were actively pursuing ways in which they might improve awareness and understanding of avalanche risk in the Scottish mountains. Their initiatives led to the establishment of the Scottish Avalanche Project in 1988 and the Scottish Avalanche Information Service, which continues to be funded by Sportscotland.{{cite web | title = Avalanche transceiver training park opens in Glencoe | website =Walk Highlands| date= 5 January 2011| first =Helen | last = Webster | access-date = 16 May 2024 |url = https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/avalanche-transceiver-training-park-opens-in-glencoe/ }}
Honours
In recognition of his pioneering work on avalanche prognosis in Scotland, for his publications and his personal contribution to outdoor education and safety in the mountains, Langmuir was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Edinburgh in 1978. In 1986, he was awarded an MBE in the New Year Honours "For services to Mountaineering in Scotland."{{cite news | title=Modest Mountain Man maintains a family tradition | work =The Glasgow Herald| date= 31 December 1985 |pages=11 | first=Alan | last=Thomson | access-date=16 May 2024 |url =https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=dbdAAAAAIBAJ&pg=2113%2C5688028}} In 1993 the British Association of Ski Instructors named him Honorary President.
References
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Category:20th-century Scottish educators
Category:Alumni of Peterhouse, Cambridge
Category:Avalanche researchers
Category:Fellows of the Royal Society of Edinburgh
Category:Members of the Order of the British Empire
Category:People educated at Fettes College