Escada
{{Short description|German luxury fashion house}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=February 2020}}
{{other}}
{{Infobox company
| name = Escada SE
| logo = ESCADA_Logo_Combi.png
| logo_size = 250px
| image = Escada Headquarters.jpg
| image_caption = Headquarters in Aschheim, Germany
| type = Private
| foundation = {{#statements:inception}}
| founders = Margaretha Ley
Wolfgang Ley
| location = {{#statements:headquarters location}}, {{#statements:country}}
| industry = {{#statements:industry}}
| owner = Regent, L.P.
| products = Women's Fashion
Handbags
Shoes
Fragrances
Eyewear
| homepage = {{url|escada.com}}
| key_people = {{Unbulleted list|Michael Reinstein (Chairman)}}
}}
Escada SE is a luxury women's designer clothing company headquartered in Aschheim, Germany. The company is owned by Regent, L.P., an international private equity firm led by investor Michael Reinstein.[https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/escada-owner-said-in-advanced-talks-to-sell-brand-1203358732/ Escada Owner in Advanced Talks to Sell Brand – WWD]. Wwd.com (30 October 2019). Retrieved on 2020-02-05.
The company was founded in 1978 by designer Margaretha Ley. It currently retails fashion accessories and ready-to-wear. As of 2017, Escada SE operates in 80 countries with 600 points of sale worldwide. The luxury fashion label employs around 1,500 employees with international locations in Milan, Paris, Tokyo, London, Beverly Hills, and New York City.
History
Escada was founded in {{#statements:P571|from=Q600986}} by Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley in Munich, Germany.{{cite web|url=http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Da-Es/Escada.html|title=Escada – Fashion Designer Encyclopedia – women, men, shoes, style, new, body, history, collection, designs|website=www.fashionencyclopedia.com|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160920071514/http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/Da-Es/Escada.html|archive-date=20 September 2016}} Being a former model and having a solid education in tailoring from the Royal Court in Stockholm, Margaretha Ley became known for her bold, feminine designs. The Escada womenswear collection, which featured exquisite inlays and appliqués, was first presented in 1978. The company soon stood out with its distinctive creations featuring unusual combinations of colors and patterns, exclusive embroidery, and elaborately designed knitted fashions. Escada saw a rapid upswing and continually extended its collections and its creative work.
In the course of its international expansion, Escada SE went public in 1986, with the Leys retaining 51 percent of the voting stock.Anne-Marie Schiro (9 June 1992), [https://www.nytimes.com/1992/06/09/nyregion/margaretha-ley-chief-designer-of-sportswear-company-is-dead.html Margaretha Ley, Chief Designer Of Sportswear Company, Is Dead] New York Times. In addition to the Escada label, the company also manufactured women's clothing under the Crisca, Laurèl, Apriori and Natalie Acatrini labels, produced the Cerruti 1881 women's collection under a licensing agreement and owned a majority percentage of St. John Knits (from 1990) and Badgley Mischka (from 1992).Anne-Marie Schiro (9 June 1992), [https://www.nytimes.com/1992/06/09/nyregion/margaretha-ley-chief-designer-of-sportswear-company-is-dead.html Margaretha Ley, Chief Designer Of Sportswear Company, Is Dead] New York Times.Woody Hochswendr (28 January 1992), [https://www.nytimes.com/1992/01/28/news/patterns-341892.html Badgley Mischka Acquired] New York Times. Escada introduced its first signature scent in 1990.Melissa Drier and Jennifer Weil (30 June 2000), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1196191/ Escada's New Persona] Women's Wear Daily.
After Margareth Ley died in 1992, Michael Stolzenburg (1992–1994) and Todd Oldham (1995–1997) served as the brand's design directors.Suzy Menkes (11 October 1994), [https://www.nytimes.com/1994/10/11/style/IHT-todd-oldham-will-join-escada.html Todd Oldham Will Join Escada] International Herald Tribune. In 1993, the company sold its share in St. John Knits.Mariana Popp (7 April 1994), [https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/wolfgang-ley-escada-is-on-road-to-recovery-1155719/ Wolfgang Ley: Escada is on Road to Recovery] Women's Wear Daily. In 1995, the company launched the Escada Sport label,{{Cite web|date=17 July 2010|title=Escada|url=https://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/escada/|access-date=19 October 2020|website=Vintage Fashion Guild}} established its own accessories collection including bags and shoes and granted major licenses, collaborating with such partners as Procter & Gamble. In 2001, the first Escada lingerie collection was produced and distributed by Hanro of Switzerland.Melissa Drier (22 January 2001), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1178536/ Hanro Launches Escada Lingerie] Women's Wear Daily. With the exception of Escada Sport, the company discontinued all of its sub-lines in 2001, such as Escada Weekend or Escada Couture, focusing instead on the Escada main brand.Melissa Drier and Jennifer Weil (30 June 2000), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/article-1196191/ Escada's New Persona] Women's Wear Daily. After 12 years in the category, Escada exited the beauty business in 2002 by selling its assets and licensing its name to Wella; in turn, Wella signed a long-term, worldwide licensing agreement with Escada for the manufacturing and marketing of fragrances and cosmetics.Jennifer Weil (5 March 2002), [https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/escada-exits-beauty-wella-licenses-brand-1172372/ Escada Exits Beauty, Wella Licenses Brand] Women's Wear Daily.
In 2006, Damiano Biella joined Escada 2006 in the new position of creative director.Melissa Drier (18 September 2006), [https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/escada-names-biella-as-creative-director-523287/ Escada Names Biella As Creative Director] Women's Wear Daily.Melissa Drier (12 February 2009), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/biella-exits-escada-1982519/ Escada Restructures, Hammerl Takes Design Reins] Women's Wear Daily. In 2007, the artist Stefan Szczesny created a new collection in Saint-Tropez, France.
From 2008, Bruno Sälzer served as Escada's CEO with responsibilities for design, marketing, and sales.Christian Kraemer (19 August 2009), [https://www.reuters.com/article/escada-shares/update-1-escada-ceo-sells-own-shares-at-steep-loss-idUSLJ9191220090819 Escada CEO sells own shares at steep loss] Reuters. Under his leadership, the company sold its Münster-based subsidiary Primera AG, which comprised the brands apriori, cavita, and Laurèl,Eva Kuehnen (26 May 2009), [https://www.reuters.com/article/escada-primera/update-1-stricken-escada-casts-off-fashion-brands-idUSLQ10254620090526 Stricken Escada casts off fashion brands] Reuters. as well as BiBA to financial investor Mutares. Shortly after, it launched an unsuccessful plan to raise 29 million euros ($41 million) in a rights issue as part of a plan to restructure its debts.Anousha Sakoui (21 July 2009), [https://www.ft.com/content/f9ef1c8e-761a-11de-9e59-00144feabdc0 Escada pegs plans on rights issue] Financial Times.
On 11 August 2009, Escada filed for insolvency at Munich Local Court, as an exchange offer for the outstanding bonds of 200 million euros was not accepted by the necessary 80% of all bond holders.vgl. [https://www.welt.de/wirtschaft/article4303481/Modekonzern-Escada-muss-Insolvenz-anmelden.html Modekonzern Escada muss Insolvenz anmelden] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120628022207/https://www.welt.de/wirtschaft/article4303481/Modekonzern-Escada-muss-Insolvenz-anmelden.html |date=28 June 2012 }} welt.de, 11. August 2009{{cite web| url=http://www.dailyfinance.com/2009/08/13/escada-out-of-fashion-declares-bankruptcy/| title=Escada out of fashion, declares bankruptcy| publisher=dailyfinance.com| date=13 August 2009| access-date=7 December 2015| author=Sarah Gilbert| url-status=dead| archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160131222522/http://www.dailyfinance.com/2009/08/13/escada-out-of-fashion-declares-bankruptcy/| archive-date=31 January 2016}} Sven Ley, the son of founder Wolfgang Ley, teamed up with the former head of Gucci, Giacomo Santucci, and Italian investment group Borletti to offer almost 80 million euros ($118.2 million) for Escada.Eva Kuehnen and Christian Kraemer (3 November 2009), [https://www.reuters.com/article/escada-idUKL359310820091103 Son of Escada founder bids for German fashion house] Reuters. In November 2009, the company was eventually acquired by India's London-based billionaire Lakshmi Mittal, whose daughter-in-law, Megha Mittal, emerged as the new the owner and became chair of the company's board.{{cite web|url=https://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601205&sid=azkhfjKQebj0|title=404. Page Not Found – Bloomberg|website=Bloomberg.com|date=30 August 2023 }}
Following the sale, Bettina Hammerl (2009–2012)Melissa Drier (12 February 2009), [https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/biella-exits-escada-1982519/ Escada Restructures, Hammerl Takes Design Reins] Women's Wear Daily. and Daniel Wingate (2012–2017)Melissa Drier (26 November 2012), [https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/escada-promotes-daniel-wingate-6502946/ Escada Promotes Daniel Wingate] Women's Wear Daily.Melissa Drier (18 January 2017), [https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/daniel-wingate-and-escada-part-ways-10755001/ Daniel Wingate and Escada Part Ways] Women's Wear Daily. oversaw Escada's fashion design. Sälzer stepped down as CEO by December 2014{{cite web | url=http://www.wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/bruno-slzer-to-step-down-at-escada-7489200?src=n/newsAlert/20140220-3 | title=Bruno Sälzer to Step Down at Escada | publisher=WWD | date=20 February 2014 | access-date=20 February 2014 | author=Drier, Melissa | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140321041329/http://www.wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/bruno-slzer-to-step-down-at-escada-7489200?src=n%2FnewsAlert%2F20140220-3 | archive-date=21 March 2014 }} and was succeeded by Glenn McMahon.Melissa Drier (15 December 2014), [https://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/glenn-mcmahon-named-escada-ceo-8075997/ Glenn McMahon Named Escada CEO] Women's Wear Daily.
From 2016 until 2019, Iris Epple-Righi served as Escada's CEO. During her time in office, Niall Sloan joined the company as the Global Design Director in 2017.{{cite web | url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/escada-recruits-next-creative-director-at-hunter-10913211/ | title=Niall Sloan joined Escada as the Global Design Directora | publisher=WWD | date=14 June 2017 | access-date=14 June 2017 | author=Hays, Kali }} Sloan presented his first runway collection for Escada at New York Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 19 to celebrate the company's 40th anniversary. {{cite web | url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/rebooting-escada-for-a-new-era | title=Rebooting Escada for a New Era | publisher=Business of Fashion | date=14 June 2017 | access-date=12 June 2019 | author=Blanks, Tim }} The event was held at the historic Park Avenue Armory. For the Fall / Winter 19 season Sloan presented his next collection, inspired by the life and legacy of Hedy Lamarr, during Paris Fashion Week in February at the Institut de France.{{cite web | url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/escada-autumn-2019-collection-preview | title=Meet The Ultra-Glamorous Muse Behind Escada's AW19 Collection | publisher=Vogue UK | date=27 February 2019 | access-date=12 June 2019 | author=Ellie, Pithers }}
Escada announced British singer Rita Ora as the brand's face of their spring campaign in 2019.{{cite web | url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/rita-ora-is-escadas-new-brand-ambassador-1202954974/ | title=Rita Ora Is Escada's New Brand Ambassador | publisher=WWD | date=14 January 2019 | access-date=2 June 2019 | author=Ma, Fiona }} Ora released a version of the ESCADA Heart Bag which she helped design and a portion of proceeds from the sale of the design was given to Women for Women International.{{cite web | url=https://www.vogue.com/article/rita-ora-escada-heart-bag-public-hotel | title=Rita Ora's Got a Brand-New Bag, and She Designed It for Escada | publisher=Vogue | date=28 March 2019 | access-date=2 June 2019 | author=Scott, Catherine }}
Mittal sold Escada in October 2019 to Regent, L.P. a global private equity firm in Beverly Hills, California. By September 2020, the company again filed for insolvency, with plans to limit corporate operations in the country and further limit its retail presence.Kali Hays (2 September 2020), [https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/escada-files-for-insolvency-bankruptcy-in-germany-1234573264/ Escada Files for Insolvency in Germany Amid Financial Stress] Women's Wear Daily.
Corporate affairs
File:ESCADA store panorama.jpg
Escada divides its business activities in three segments:
- Fashion with the brands Escada Mainline{{cite news|title=Escada Mainline Online Store|url=https://www.escada.com/us/clothing/?p=1&o=1&n=12&s=1|date=25 December 2018}} and Escada Sport.{{cite news|title=Escada Sport Online Store|url=https://www.escada.com/us/clothing/?p=1&o=1&n=12&s=2|date=25 December 2018}}
- Accessories consisting of bags, shoes, and small leather goods. {{cite news|title=Escada Accessories Online Store|url=https://www.escada.com/us/shoes-accessories/|date=25 December 2018}}
- Licenses which utilizes the Escada brand for fragrances, eyewear. {{cite news|title=Escada Fragrances|url=https://www.escada-fragrances.com|date=25 December 2018}}
Notable clients
File:Impression Escada Store.jpg
Diana, Princess of Wales was a customer of Escada, famously wearing an Escada coat for a formal visit to Berlin in 1987. Kim Basinger was awarded the Oscar in 1998 in an Escada gown. Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden is a regular Escada customer. In 2010, she wore Escada to the pre-wedding party at the wedding of Prince Nikolaos of Greece. In 2011, she wore Escada to the Monaco royal wedding, the pre-wedding dinner for the British royal wedding, as well as the state visit to Germany. Sarah, Duchess of York, wore Escada to Elton John's White Tie and Tiara Ball in 2011.
Controversy
In a 1994 lawsuit filed in New York State Supreme Court, former Escada Beauté president Lawrence H. Appel claimed he was fired without cause, less than three weeks after the company offered and then withdraw a "buyout" proposal. Appel also alleged that Wolfgang Ley, who was named as a defendant, made numerous "derogatory comments" about Jews.[https://wwd.com/business-news/financial/former-exec-sues-escada-for-slander-discrimination-breach-of-contract-1158934/ Former Exec Sues Escada for Slander, Discrimination, Breach of Contract] Women's Wear Daily, 14 June 1994.
On 18 October 2007, the group "Global Network Against the Fur Industry",{{cite web |url=http://www.escada-campaign.org/ |title=ESCADA Campaign - Global Network to Abolish the Fur Industry |access-date=12 November 2007 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071113060036/http://www.escada-campaign.org/ |archive-date=13 November 2007 }} which is made up of organizations such as Coalition to Abolish the Fur Trade or Offensive gegen die Pelzindustrie, launched a campaign against Escada, in the form of a day of action, in hopes of getting Escada to stop selling fur. According to their website, on 18 October, there were 40 actions against Escada in 14 countries.[http://www.escada-campaign.org/news_details.php?lang=en&id=1]{{dead link|date=January 2018|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}} On 6 October 2007, Escada headquarters were vandalized by the Animal Liberation Front.{{cite web|url=http://www.directaction.info|title=BITE BACK Magazine|website=www.directaction.info|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071127015242/http://www.directaction.info/|archive-date=27 November 2007}} Since that date the campaign against Escada continues with regular pickets in front of Escada outlets worldwide. In October 2010, the company confirmed to the campaigners that Escada would go completely fur-free by 2011.{{fact|date=September 2024}}
References
{{reflist}}
External links
{{Commons category-inline|Escada (company)|Escada}}
- [http://www.escada.com/ Official website]
Category:Clothing brands of Germany
Category:Design companies established in 1978
Category:Clothing companies established in 1978
Category:Companies listed on the Frankfurt Stock Exchange
Category:Companies that filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2009
Category:Companies that filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2022