Fabric inspection
{{short description|Systematic evaluation of fabric quality}}
Fabric inspection, also known as fabric checking, is a systematic fabric evaluation in which defects are identified. Fabric inspection helps understand quality in terms of color, density, weight, printing, measurement, and other quality criteria prior to garment production. Fabric inspection takes place at various stages of manufacturing, including intermediate and final. "Perching" was another term for fabric inspection.{{Cite book|last=Stout|first=Evelyn E.|url=http://archive.org/details/introductiontote1970stou|title=Introduction to textiles|date=1970|publisher=New York, Wiley|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-471-83097-9|pages=334}}{{Cite book|last=Harder|first=Frances|url=http://archive.org/details/isbn_9780972776318|title=Fashion for profit : a professional's complete guide to designing, manufacturing, & marketing a successful line|date=2004|publisher=Harder Publications|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-9727763-1-8|location=Rolling Hills Estate, California USA|pages=110}}
Procedure
Quality control in textiles is to inspect whether a manufactured material meets the specifications set by the buyers. It is a broader aspect that includes the quality of the final product and the encompassing materials, for example, yarn and fabric. Fabric quality addresses fabric-related issues. Fabric inspection is a step of visual examination apart from the performance criteria; It finds various flaws and irregularities. Accordingly, it grades the fabrics as per quality level, fabric weight, shading color, number, and size of the defects.{{Cite web |last=truents |date=2010-10-27 |title=Fabric Inspection in apparel manufacturing |url=https://www.textileschool.com/219/fabric-inspection-in-apparel-manufacturing/ |access-date=2022-04-06 |website=Textile School |language=en-US}}{{Cite book|last=Kadolph|first=Sara J.|url=http://archive.org/details/textiles0010kado|title=Textiles|date=2007|publisher=Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Pearson Prentice Hall|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-13-118769-6|pages=14|quote=Keep in mind that fabric quality is not the same thing as product quality. Fabric quality addresses the fabric used to produce the product. Other factors such as design and construction also influence product quality,}}{{Cite book|last=Kadolph|first=Sara J.|url=http://archive.org/details/textiles0000kado|title=Textiles|date=1998|publisher=Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Merrill|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-13-494592-7|pages=397, 405}} In addition to ensuring the quality of the garment, fabric inspection also helps manufacturing companies reduce their reject pile, essentially improving both efficiency and delivery times.
Various methods are selected in fabric inspection, including inspection on a flat table or a fabric inspection machine. In-house or third-party inspectors can do the job.
= Visual Inspection and grading =
Most mills use their customized inspection standards, but commonly used is the point system. It is a widely accepted system of fabric inspection as it is based on penalty points.{{Citation|last1=Vijayan|first1=A.|title=5 - Fabric sourcing and selection|date=2015-01-01|url=http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781782422327000059|work=Garment Manufacturing Technology|pages=109–128|editor-last=Nayak|editor-first=Rajkishore|series=Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles|publisher=Woodhead Publishing|language=en|isbn=978-1-78242-232-7|access-date=2020-12-25|last2=Jadhav|first2=A.|editor2-last=Padhye|editor2-first=Rajiv}}{{Cite book|last=Sarkar|first=Prasanta|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=aYBZDwAAQBAJ&dq=fabric+checking&pg=PA160|title=Garment Manufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology|publisher=Online Clothing Study|isbn=978-93-83701-75-9|pages=160|language=en}} For example standard test methods for visually inspecting and grading fabrics (ASTM D5430){{Cite web|title=Textile Standards|url=https://www.astm.org/Standards/textile-standards.html#D13.59|access-date=2020-12-29|website=www.astm.org |publisher=ASTM}} and four-point system. Today, the 4-point system is the most commonly used fabric inspection system which as implied by the name, works with a 1 to 4 deduction system in which the highest defect rating is 4 points.{{Cite web |title=7 things you need to know about fabric inspection |url=https://www.eurofins.com/assurance/consumer-products/resources/articles/7-things-you-need-to-know-about-fabric-inspection/ |access-date=2022-04-06 |website=7 things you need to know about fabric inspection}} In the 4-point system, fabric quality is assessed based on unit points per 100 square yards. Typically, a fabric roll is deemed satisfactory if it contains 40 points per 100 yards.{{Cite book |last1=Mehta |first1=Pradip V. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PvtKaEzDFkQC&dq=four+point+system+in+fabric+inspection&pg=PA18 |title=Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry |last2=Bhardwaj |first2=Satish K. |date=1998 |publisher=New Age International |isbn=978-81-224-1166-9 |pages=18 |language=en}}
= Computerized Inspection =
The fabric inspection machine is equipped with lights and a table enabled with guide rollers that help the inspector or a fabric checker observe every yard.
Manual and computerized inspection are both used.{{Cite journal|last1=Tsang|first1=Colin S. C.|last2=Ngan|first2=Henry Y. T.|last3=Pang|first3=Grantham K. H.|date=2016-03-01|title=Fabric inspection based on the Elo rating method |url=http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0031320315003532|journal=Pattern Recognition|language=en|volume=51|pages=378–394|doi=10.1016/j.patcog.2015.09.022|hdl=10722/229176|issn=0031-3203|hdl-access=free}}{{Cite book|last1=Nayak|first1=Rajkishore|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3YeZDgAAQBAJ&dq=Fabric+inspection&pg=PA75|title=Automation in Garment Manufacturing|last2=Padhye|first2=Rajiv|date=2017-11-10|publisher=Woodhead Publishing|isbn=978-0-08-101133-1|language=en}}{{Cite web|last=Jana|first=Prabir|date=2013-02-01|title=Camera Based Visual Fabric Inspection|url=https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/manufacturing-tech/technology-levels-for-fabric-inspection/|access-date=2020-12-25|website=Apparel Resources|language=en-US}}
= Artificial Intelligence based fabric inspection =
Artificial intelligence based fabric inspection systems are being developed.{{Cite web|last=News-Desk|first=Apparel Resources|date=2018-10-22|title=Researchers develop AI based fabric detection system for textile industry {{!}} Technology News Hong Kong|url=https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/manufacturing-tech/researchers-develop-ai-based-fabric-detection-system-textile-industry/|access-date=2020-12-30|website=Apparel Resources|language=en-US}}
Repair and remedies
= Mending =
= Burling or specking =
Burling is a repairing finish. It helps in improving the fabric's final appearance. During the inspection process, woven fabrics may require burling, which includes the removal of certain manufacturing defects such as burrs, knots, loose and protruding threads. Burling tools are used to push these defects to the fabric's back side.{{Cite book|last=Gioello|first=Debbie Ann|url=http://archive.org/details/understandingfab0000gioe|title=Understanding fabrics : from fiber to finished cloth|date=1982|publisher=Fairchild Publications|location=New York|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-87005-377-1|pages=133}}
= Spotting =
Spotting is a method of removing stains that can be used in the garment stage or on fabric as well.{{Cite book|last=Souza|first=D. Noemia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LA0NdnTHmLMC&dq=Fabric+spotting&pg=PA116|title=Fabric Care|date=1998|publisher=New Age International|isbn=978-81-224-1143-0|pages=116|language=en}}