Fengguan

{{Transliteration|zh|Fengguan}} literally means "phoenix crown" in English language, a name that originates from its adornments: phoenixes made of inlaid kingfisher feathers, as well as gold dragons, beaded pheasants, pearls, and other gemstones. One of the earliest phoenix crowns that has been excavated belonged to Empress Xiao of the Sui dynasty.{{sfnp|China Daily|2016}} The type became most popular during the Ming dynasty, with many changes made over time.

{{multiple image

| direction =

| width = 200

| image1 = Donor portrait, Mo-Kao-Khu Cave 17.jpg

| caption1 = Noblewoman wearing a gold phoenix crown

| image2 = Lady Chai, aka Lady Liang-kuo.jpg

| caption2 = Lady Liang-kuo wearing a silver phoenix crown

| footer_align = center

| footer =

| header = Late-Tang style phoenix crowns

| total_width = 400

}}

{{Transliteration|zh|Fengguan}} evolved from {{Transliteration|zh|Fengchai}} ({{zh|p=fèngchāi|c=鳳釵||l=phoenix hairpin}}), the Chinese hairpin worn by empresses and emperor's concubines. The wearing of {{Transliteration|zh|fengchai}} was issued by Emperor Qin Shihuang (259BC–210BC).{{cite book |title=Zhonghua gu jin zhu |url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%8A%E6%B3%A8/%E4%B8%AD%E8%8F%AF%E5%8F%A4%E4%BB%8A%E8%A8%BB |quote=始皇又金银作凤头，以玳瑁为脚，号曰凤钗。}} It was in Eastern Jin (317–420 AD) that the word {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}} first came up; however, it was referring to the hairpin which was imitating the comb of Chinese phoenix.{{cite book |title=Shi Yi Ji |url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%8B%BE%E9%81%BA%E8%A8%98/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B9%9D |chapter=9 |quote=萦金为凤冠之钗...鋳金钗象凤皇之冠。}}

The earliest {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}} discovered was the crown of Empress Xiao of the Sui dynasty, unearthed from the Emperor Yang of Sui's tomb in 2013. The crown was made under the order of Emperor Taizong of Tang after the empress's death.{{cite book |title=Zizhi Tongjian |url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E8%B3%87%E6%B2%BB%E9%80%9A%E9%91%91/%E5%8D%B7198 |chapter=198 |quote=庚子，隋萧后卒。诏复其位号，谥曰愍；使三品护葬，备卤簿仪卫，送至江都，与炀帝合葬。}} [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW388etApKA The artifact was protect-repaired and studied in Shaanxi Provincial Cultural Heritage Administration]; later, a replica was made based on the studies.{{cite web |title=隋炀帝墓萧后冠亮相扬州博物馆 |url=http://www.chinamuseum.org.cn/a/zixun/gedizixun/2016/0923/8755.html}}

Kingfisher feathers were extremely rare during the Ming dynasty and were potentially sourced from Cambodia.{{sfnp|Song|2015|p=82}} The numbers of phoenixes, dragons and precious gems on each crown is different. For example, the phoenix crown of Ming Empress Xiaoduanxian has 6 dragons, 3 phoenixes, 5,449 pearls, 71 rubies, and 57 sapphires.{{CN|date=March 2023}} Other phoenix crowns of empresses excavated from the Ming tombs have 9 phoenixes, between 12 and 9 dragons, more than 3,500 pearls, and more than 150 gemstones.{{CN|date=March 2023}} The pearls, gemstones and kingfisher feathers were made into ornamental flowers, leaves, clouds, and temple ornaments ({{zh|c=兩博鬢|p=liǎngbóbìn}}; the 'wings' at the sides and back of the crown). The weight of the entire crown can range from {{convert|2|-|3|kg}}.{{sfnp|Ming Tombs|2015}}

There are different varieties of {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}}. The number of dragons, phoenixes and pheasants, in addition to the presence of certain ornaments was dictated by rank.

File:Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic356 - 九龍四鳳冠.svg

{{Transliteration|zh|Shierlongjiu fengguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=十二龍九鳳冠}}) is the 12-dragons-9-phoenixes crown.

{{Transliteration|zh|Jiulongjiu fengguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=九龍九鳳冠}}) is the 9-dragons-9-phoenixes crown.

{{Transliteration|zh|Jiulongsi fengguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=九龍四鳳冠}}) is the 9-dragons-4-phoenixes crown.

{{Transliteration|zh|Liulongsan fengguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=六龍三鳳冠}}) is the 6-dragons-3-phoenixes crown.

{{Transliteration|zh|Sanlonger fengguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=三龍二鳳冠}}) is the 3-dragons-2-phoenixes crown.

Only the crowns of empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) can have temple ornaments adorned, with the empress's crown having 6 blades of temple ornaments (3 on each side).

{{Transliteration|zh|Jiudiguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=九翟冠|l=nine-pheasants crown}}), {{Transliteration|zh|qidiguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=七翟冠|l=seven-pheasants crown}}) and {{Transliteration|zh|wudiguan}} ({{Lang-zh|c=五翟冠|l=five-pheasants crown}}), adorned with beaded pheasants and gold phoenixes, are worn by royal concubines and princesses (includes wives of princes), with the number of pheasants representing the wearer's royal rank. The crown princess can only have 4 blades of temple ornaments (2 on each side)

All other noblewomen/wives and daughters of officials wear the pearl-and-emerald crown ({{Lang-zh|c=珍珠翡翠冠|p=zhēnzhūfěicuìguān}}), where the crown is just adorned with pearls and gemstones (in various ornamental shapes).{{sfnp|Jlsdaj.gov.cn|2009}} Phoenix crowns worn with {{Transliteration|zh|diyi}} have no strings of pearls by the sides of the head. Noblewomen cannot have temple ornaments on their headdresses.

Coloured hats worn by commoner women on their wedding ceremony during the Ming and Qing dynasty was also called {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}}. The practice is believed to have started during Southern Song when the Emperor rewarded a girl for saving his life.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oen_AgAAQBAJ&dq=phoenix%20coronet%20wedding&pg=PA111|title=Chinese auspicious culture|date=2012|publisher=Asiapac Books|author=Evy Wong|isbn=978-981-229-642-9|edition=English|location=Singapore|pages=111|oclc=818922837}} Women wearing the {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}} as part of their set of wedding clothing has been a long tradition in the area of Zhejiang.{{Cite book|last=Juan|first=Hunjia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KbytDwAAQBAJ&dq=phoenix%20coronet%20wedding&pg=PT33|title=Marriage.|date=2016|publisher=Time AACP|isbn=978-1-921816-97-0|oclc=967096753}} The {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}} was a symbol of good fortune. However, women who were remarrying for a second times and who were to be become a man's concubine were not allowed to wear {{Transliteration|zh|fengguan}}.

File:A Tang Dynasty Empress Wu Zetian.JPG|Tang dynasty phoenix crown worn by Empress regnant Wu Zetian.

File:China's Ming Dynasty Empress XiaoKe.jpg|Ming dynasty phoenix crown with diyi worn by Empress Xiaoke.

File:Chinese Ming Dynasty Empress XiaoZhuangRui.PNG|Ming dynasty phoenix crown with strings of pearls worn by Empress Xiaozhuangrui.

File:Noblewoman5.jpg|Ming dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 9 pheasants and traditional Ming dress, known as fengguan xiapei.

File:Noblewoman4.jpg|Ming dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 5 pheasants and traditional Ming dress.

File:Phoenix crown back.jpg|View of the reverse of a Ming dynasty empress' phoenix crown with 3 dragons and 3 phoenixes.

File:Traditional chinese wedding.jpg|Bride wearing a phoenix crown for a wedding.

File:O1CN01Yh8thK1PMoGPqjGqX !!1115331827.jpg|Diyi worn with phoenix crown.

File:O1CN013Dn1Ku1PMoGVRUOgY !!1115331827.jpg|Dashan (大衫) worn with phoenix crown (side view).

File:Ming Empress Crown a.jpg|Ming dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes.

File:Ming Empress Crown b.jpg|Ming dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes. (side view)

File:China's Ming Dynasty Empress Xiaoding.jpg|Empress Dowager Xiaoding of the Ming dynasty wearing a crown and traditional Ming costume.

File:Chinese Ming Dynasty Empress XiaoJie.JPG|Empress Xiaojiesu of the Ming dynasty wearing a phoenix crown and traditional Ming costume.

File:Empress crown, Palace Museum, 2017-05-21 01.jpg|A Ming dynasty crown with three dragons and two phoenixes.

File:Ming Empress Crown, Dingling Museum (9863924404).jpg|Ming dynasty phoenix crown with 6 dragons and 3 phoenixes belonging to Empress Xiaoduanxian.

File:B Song Dynasty Empress of Huizong.JPG|Fengguan of Empress Xiansu of the Song dynasty.

File:B Song Dynasty Empress of Qinzong.JPG|Fengguan of Empress Zhu of the Song dynasty.

• Chinese hairpin
• {{Transliteration|zh|Xiapei}}
• {{Transliteration|zh|Fengguan xiapei}}

• Consort crown
• Hanfu
• Qungua
• Kokoshnik

{{reflist|2}}

{{refbegin}}

{{refend}}

• {{cite web |ref={{harvid|China Daily|2016}}

|url=http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/culture/2016-09/19/content_26827501.htm

|title=Ancient phoenix crown of Sui Dynasty unveiled in E China

|author=

|date=19 September 2016

|website=China Daily

|access-date=14 February 2017

}}

• {{cite web |ref={{harvid|Jlsdaj.gov.cn|2009}}

|url=http://www.jlsdaj.gov.cn/zonghe03/show.asp?id=9000

|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090709140206/http://www.jlsdaj.gov.cn/zonghe03/show.asp?id=9000

|archive-date=9 July 2009

|title=明代妇女的头饰

|trans-title=Women's headwear of Ming Dynasty

|website=Jlsdaj.gov.cn

|language=Chinese

|access-date=8 December 2009

}}

• {{cite web

|ref={{harvid|Ming Tombs|2015}}

|url=http://www.mingtombs.com/wwbh/200904/t20090418_768.htm

|title=文物鉴赏

|trans-title=Appreciation of cultural relics

|language=Chinese

|author=

|date=29 December 2015

|website=Ming Tombs

|publisher=Special Administrative Agency for the Thirteen Mausoleums, Beijing

|access-date=14 February 2017

|archive-date=8 October 2011

|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111008061827/http://www.mingtombs.com/wwbh/200904/t20090418_768.htm

|url-status=dead

}}

• {{cite thesis

|type=MA

|last=Song|first=Yuxian

|date=2015

|title=The Power of the Phoenix Crown: Imperial Women and Material Culture in Late Ming China

|institution=University of Alberta

|website=Education & Research Archive, University of Alberta Libraries

|url=https://era.library.ualberta.ca/files/9c67wq63r#.WKLXgG-LRxA

}}

{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

{{Folk costume}}

Category:Chinese traditional clothing

Category:Crowns (headgear)

Category:Chinese headgear