Gangapurna
{{Short description|Mountain in Nepal}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=December 2021}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Gangapurna
| native_name ={{native name|ne|गंगापूर्ण}}
| photo = Gangapurna Glacier.jpg
| photo_caption = Gangapurna in 2011, seen from the northeast
| elevation_m = 7455
| elevation_ref=
| prominence_m = 563
| prominence_ref=
| range = Annapurna
| listing = Mountains of Nepal
| country = Nepal
| state = Gandaki Province
| state_type = Province
| map = Nepal Gandaki Province#Nepal
| map_caption = Location in Gandaki Province
| coordinates = {{coord|28.60500431196019|83.96330632666488|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| first_ascent = 6 May 1965
| easiest_route =
}}
Gangapurna ({{Langx|ne|गंगापूर्ण}}) is a mountain in Gandaki Province, Nepal. It is part of the Annapurna mountain range in north-central Nepal at an elevation of {{Convert|7455|m}} and with the prominence of {{Convert|563|m}}. It was first ascended in 1965 by a German expedition via its south face and east ridge. Gangapurna is entirely located in the Annapurna Conservation Area.
Geography
Gangapurna is located at the border of Annapurna Rural Municipality, Kaski and Nesyang Rural Municipality, Manang in Gandaki Province at {{Convert|7455|m}} above sea level and its prominence is {{Convert|563|m}}.{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna|url=https://nepalhimalpeakprofile.org/gangapurna|access-date=13 December 2021|website=Nepal Himal Peak Profile}}{{Cite peakbagger|title=Gangapurna|pid=18712|access-date=2021-12-13}} It is part of the Annapurna mountain range in north-central Nepal, and Gangapurna is on the main ridge that connects Annapurna I to Gangapurna and Annapurna III.{{Cite book|last=Gurung|first=Harka B.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bRRuAAAAMAAJ|title=Vignettes of Nepal|date=1980|publisher=Sajha Prakashan|pages=229|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211118212048/https://books.google.com/books?id=bRRuAAAAMAAJ&newbks=0|archive-date=18 November 2021|url-status=live}}{{Cite book|last=Shirahata|first=Shirō|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=igbcAAAAMAAJ|title=Nepal Himalaya|date=1983|publisher=Heian International|isbn=978-0-89346-220-8|pages=220|language=en}} The main peak of the mountain range, Annapurna I Main, is the tenth highest mountain in the world at {{Convert|8091|m}} above sea level.{{Cite book|last1=Western|first1=David|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s5biLtQdZS4C|title=Natural Connections: Perspectives In Community-Based Conservation|last2=Wright|first2=Michael|date=2013-03-19|publisher=Island Press|isbn=978-1-61091-094-1|pages=264|language=en}}
The mountain is named after Ganga, the Hindu goddess who is a personification of the river Ganges.{{Cite book|last=Bezruchka|first=Stephen|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=TFa-ant72OgC|title=Trekking in Nepal: A Traveler's Guide|date=1997|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-0-89886-535-6|pages=186|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205184520/https://books.google.com/books?id=TFa-ant72OgC&newbks=0|archive-date=5 December 2021|url-status=live}} Gangapurna entirely lies in the Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal's largest protected area established in 1985,{{Cite book|last1=Singh|first1=R. B.|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mZfDCgAAQBAJ|title=Environmental Geography of South Asia: Contributions Toward a Future Earth Initiative|last2=Prokop|first2=Pawel|date=13 October 2015|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-4-431-55741-8|pages=274|language=en}} which also encompasses Annapurna Sanctuary and is known for several trekking routes including Annapurna Circuit.{{Cite book|last=Gurung|first=Manaslu|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mUraAAAAMAAJ|title=Women and Development in the Third World: A Case Study from Ghandruk, Nepal|date=2004|publisher=WWF Nepal Program Office|pages=76|language=en}}{{Cite book|last1=Western|first1=David|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s5biLtQdZS4C|title=Natural Connections: Perspectives In Community-Based Conservation|last2=Wright|first2=Michael|date=19 March 2013|publisher=Island Press|isbn=978-1-61091-094-1|pages=263|language=en}} The glaciers of Gangapurna, Annapurna IV, Khangsar Kang, and Glacier Dom create Gangapurna Lake,{{Cite web|last=Neupane|first=Tufan|date=3 September 2020|title=Forests replace glaciers in the Himalaya|url=https://www.nepalitimes.com/here-now/forests-replace-glaciers-in-the-himalaya/|access-date=13 December 2021|website=Nepali Times|language=en-US}} and the glaciers of the mountain have been melting extensively due to climate change.{{Cite web|last=Rana|first=Ramji|date=8 October 2018|title=Gangapurna Lake rapidly becoming shallower|url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/gangapurna-lake-rapidly-becoming-shallower|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205182715/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/gangapurna-lake-rapidly-becoming-shallower|archive-date=5 December 2021|access-date=5 December 2021|website=The Himalayan Times|language=en}}{{Cite book|last=Huettmann|first=Falk|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cPgf5NTcwg4C|title=Protection of the Three Poles|date=26 April 2012|publisher=Springer Science & Business Media|isbn=978-4-431-54005-2|pages=17|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211205184635/https://books.google.com/books?id=cPgf5NTcwg4C&newbks=0|archive-date=5 December 2021|url-status=live}}{{Cite book|last=Oestigaard|first=Terje|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PCpmAAAAMAAJ|title=Death and Life-giving Waters: Cremation, Caste, and Cosmogony in Karmic Traditions|date=2005|publisher=Archaeopress|isbn=978-1-84171-698-5|pages=158|language=en|access-date=5 December 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211120222738/https://books.google.com/books?id=PCpmAAAAMAAJ&newbks=0|archive-date=20 November 2021|url-status=live}} The base camp is located at {{Convert|4800|m}}.{{Cite book|last1=Club|first1=American Alpine|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bGmGKqbwe14C|title=1995 American Alpine Journal|last2=Carter|first2=H. Adams|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-42-5|pages=253|language=en}}
Climbing history
On 6 May 1965, Gangapurna was first climbed by Erich Reismueller, Ang Temba Sherpa, and Phu Dorjee Sherpa during a German expedition via its south face and east ridge.{{Cite book|last1=Isserman|first1=Maurice|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEKGGYEpZIC|title=Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes|last2=Weaver|first2=Stewart Angas|last3=Molenaar|first3=Dee|date=1 January 2010|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=978-0-300-16420-6|pages=521|language=en}} A Japanese expedition managed a second ascent in 1971 before avalanches killed eight members over a two-day period, the single worst climbing disaster in the Annapurna Himal to date.{{Cite aaj|article_id=12197218504|title=Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna|year=1982|volume=18|issue=1|pages=185|access-date=2025-06-07}} Another Japanese party succeeded without major incident in 1974.{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna, 1974|url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/|access-date=13 December 2021|website=The Himalayan Journal|language=en}}
In 1981, Canadian James Blench and John Lauchlan climbed the mountain using the alpine style,{{cite aaj|article_id=12198223301|title=Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna, South Face|year=1982|volume=24|issue=56|pages=233|links=off|access-date=2025-06-07}} which is considered to be a "remarkable achievement for the era".{{Cite web|title=Gangapurna, South Face Direct, Korean Way; Gangapurna West, South Face (Almost to Summit)|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214165/Gangapurna-South-Face-Direct-Korean-Way-Gangapurna-West-South-Face-Almost-to-Summit|access-date=13 December 2021|website=AAC Publications}}
In 1988, Gudmundur Petursson led an Icelandic expedition via the mountain's east ridge; due to a three-day thunderstorm that added 50 cm of snow to the mountain every day and increased the risk of an avalanche, the expedition was abandoned after it reached an altitude of {{Convert|5500|m}}.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2supqqoGy7wC|title=1988 American Alpine Journal|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-35-7|pages=218|language=en}} In 1992, Timothy Brill led an American expedition to climb Gangapurna in winter from the south ridge; however, this attempt only reached {{Convert|5800|m}}.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Qrhry6y9GYMC|title=1992 American Alpine Journal|publisher=The Mountaineers Books|isbn=978-1-933056-39-5|pages=216–217|language=en}} The same year, there were two unsuccessful expeditions led by Spanish mountaineer Francisco Jose Palacios. In 2017, three Korean climbers climbed Gangapurna using a newly discovered south face route, and won a "Special Mention" at the 2017 Piolet d'Or.
{{clear}}
Neighbouring peaks
{{wide image|Annapurna Massif Aerial View.jpg|500px|The Annapurna massif, view from aircraft}}
- Singu Chuli: {{Convert|6501|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} {{coord|28|35|14|N|83|52|59|E|display=inline}}
- Annapurna III: {{Convert|7555|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} {{coord|28|35|8|N|83|59|22|E|display=inline}}
- Annapurna IV: {{Convert|7525 |m|ft|0|abbr=on}} {{coord|28|32|15|N|84|4|58|E|display=inline}}
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
- [https://nepalhimalpeakprofile.org/gangapurna Gangapurna] at Nepal Himal Peak Profile
{{commons cat|Gangapurna}}