Groves classification system

The Groves Classification is a numbering system to enable the shape of any academic gown or hood to be easily described and identified. It was devised by Nicholas Groves to establish a common terminology for hoods and gowns to remedy the situation of individual universities using differing terms to describe the same item. As such it is used in same manner as an heraldic blazon whereby a textual description enables a coat of arms to be drawn. The system was first described in the Burgon Society's annual in 2001 and adopted as standard by robe makers and scholars of academic dress.{{Citation | surname=Groves | given=Nicholas | title=Towards a Standard Terminology for Describing Academic Dress | journal=The Burgon Society Annual | volume=1 | year=2001 | pages=9–12 | url=http://www.burgon.org.uk/society/library/trans/annual2001.pdf | access-date=2011-04-04 | archive-date=2015-09-23 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150923195303/http://www.burgon.org.uk/society/library/trans/annual2001.pdf | url-status=dead }}.

Classes

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|+ align="bottom" style="caption-side: bottom; text-align: right;" | The major classes of academic hoods.

style="background:#C0C0C0"| Capestyle="background:#C0C0C0"|Cowlstyle="background:#C0C0C0"|Liripiperowspan="4" colspan="1" | Parts of a hood
style="background:#75b2dd"| Full{{yan}}{{yan}}{{yan}}
style="background:#dd757e"| Simple{{nan}}{{yan}}{{yan}}
style="background:#ddd475"| Aberdeen{{yan}}{{yan}}{{nan}}

The original Groves Classification included a standardization for shapes and patterns of hoods and gowns worn by graduates and undergraduates. Further information was given regarding the use of different fabrics and standardization of colours, but the focus was placed on gowns and hoods which are explained further below.

The Classification undergoes periodic revision as new hood and gown patterns emerge.

=Hoods=

Hoods in the Classification are divided into three different types as summarised in the table below. Unlike the gowns and robes, these are based on the shape of the hood rather than the degrees for which they are worn.

  • [f] full shape hoods are those that have a cape, a cowl and a liripipe.
  • [s] simple shape hoods have only a cowl and a liripipe.
  • [a] Aberdeen shape hoods have only a cape and a vestigial cowl.

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Code
number
NamePattern
Rear view. {{space|10}} Flat view
Notes
colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#C0C0C0" | Full shape hoods
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f1]style="background:#d3e7f4"|CambridgeCambridgeCape with square corners.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f2]style="background:#d3e7f4"| DublinFile:Dublin hood outline.svgAs [f1] but the liripipe is curved at the inner corner.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f3]style="background:#d3e7f4"|LondonFile:London hood shape outline.svgAs [f1] but the cape corners are rounded.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f4]style="background:#d3e7f4"| Durham
Doctors

File:Durham doctors hood shape.svgUsed for doctoral degrees at the University of Durham. As [f7] but the liripipe is cut at a 45-degree angle and the cowl is slanted downwards.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f5]style="background:#d3e7f4"| Oxford FullFile:Oxford full shape outline.svgUsed for doctoral degrees at the University of Oxford. As [f7] but larger and with a narrow squared 'slot' between the liripipe edge and the cape.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f6]style="background:#d3e7f4"| Durham BAFile:Durham BA outline.svgTraditional shape for BA degrees at the University of Durham. As for [f7] but with a large, semi-circular cape, and the space between the cape and liripipe is cut in a quadrant arc. The liripipe is sewn on separately.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f7]style="background:#d3e7f4"| Durham BScFile:Durham BSc hood shape outline.svgAs [f3] but the bottom of the cape has a rounded, semi-circular edge.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f8]style="background:#d3e7f4" |Edinburgh
Full
File:Edinburgh full hood outline.svgAs [s4] but with a cape sewn on the back.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f9]style="background:#d3e7f4"|GlasgowFile:Glasgow hood shape outline.svgLarger version of [f1], with a longer cape and a long narrow liripipe. Typically made with a wide neckband.
style="background:#75b2dd"|[f10]style="background:#d3e7f4"| St AndrewsFile:St Andrews hood shape outline.svgSimilar to [f3] but the liripipe is slightly slanted outward and has a slight bell-shape to the end.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f11]style="background:#d3e7f4"| Warham Guild
File:Warham Guild hood shape outline.svgCreated to resemble the more ancient version of the hood.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f12]style="background:#d3e7f4"| King's FullFile:KCL full shape outline.svgDesigned by Dame Vivienne Westwood in 2008 and features two long (4') streamers which serve as gown facings. There is no neckband, and the hood is held in place by a button fixed to the each shoulder of the gown. Owing to its unique shape the hood cannot be folded flat. For clergymen that require it, a version with a neckband is available.
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f13]style="background:#d3e7f4"|UMISTFile:UMIST hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f14]style="background:#d3e7f4"| ICC DoctorsFile:American ICC hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#75b2dd"| [f15]style="background:#d3e7f4"| TorontoFile:Toronto hood shape outline.svgAs [f14] but the liripipe is vertical rather than slanted.
colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#C0C0C0" | Simple shape hoods
style="background:#dd757e"| [s1]style="background:#f4d3d6"| Oxford
Simple

File:Oxford simple shape hood outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s2]style="background:#f4d3d6"|Oxford
Burgon

File:Oxford Burgon hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s3]style="background:#f4d3d6"| BelfastFile:Belfast hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s4]style="background:#f4d3d6"| EdinburghFile:Edinburgh simple hood shape outline.svgAs for [f8] with the cape portion removed.
style="background:#dd757e"| [s5]style="background:#f4d3d6"| WalesFile:Wales hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s6]style="background:#f4d3d6" |Leicester
Bachelors
File:Leicester bachelor hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s7]style="background:#f4d3d6"|LeedsFile:Leeds hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s8]style="background:#f4d3d6"| SussexFile:Sussex hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s9]style="background:#f4d3d6"| VictoriaFile:Victoria hood outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s10]style="background:#f4d3d6"| AstonFile:Aston hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#dd757e"| [s11]style="background:#f4d3d6" | Glasgow
Caledonian
File:Glasgow Caledonian hood shape outline.svgDesigned by Aileen Stewart in 1993
style="background:#dd757e"| [s12]style="background:#f4d3d6"| King's
Simple

File:KCL simple hood shape outline.svg
colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#C0C0C0" | Aberdeen shaped hoods
style="background:#ddd475"| [a1]style="background:#f4f1d3"| CNAAFile:CNAA hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a2]style="background:#f4f1d3" | Leicester
Masters
File:Leicester masters hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a3]style="background:#f4f1d3"| KentFile:Kent hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a4]style="background:#f4f1d3"| East AngliaFile:UEA hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a5]style="background:#f4f1d3"|Leicester
Doctors

File:Leicester doctors hood shape outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a6]style="background:#f4f1d3"| DundeeFile:Dundee outline.svg
style="background:#ddd475"| [a7]style="background:#f4f1d3"| AberdeenFile:Aberdeen hood shape outline.svg

=Gowns=

Gowns in the Groves system are divided into three classes. These generally follow the shapes associated with each different academic degree in the British educational system.

  • [b] bachelor's gowns typically have large open sleeves
  • [m] master's gowns typically have long closed sleeves with armhole at elbow level
  • [d] doctor's robes vary in shape widely between institutions and are all classed as [d].

==Bachelors==

class="wikitable sortable"
CodeExampleNotes
colspan="3" align="center" | Bachelors gowns
[b1]Basic bachelorplain open sleeves, point reaching knee
[b2]Cambridge BAsleeve has slit in foream seam
[b3]Cambridge MBfront of sleeve has foldback and cord and button
[b4]London BAfront of sleeve is pleated and held by cord and button
[b5]Durham BAlower 8" of forearm seam left open, and held by button and loop
[b6]Wales BAlower 6" of forearm seam left open and folded back, held by 2 buttons, with third button on seam in middle
[b7]Bath BAas [b5], but with button at top of slit
[b8]Oxford BAas [b1], but sleeves reach hem of gown
[b9]Belfast BAbell sleeve, pleated as [b4]
[b10]Dublin BAas [b1], but sleeves much smaller
[b11]Reading BAas [b2], but sleeve point is rounded off
[b12]Sussex BAbag sleeve with small armhole

==Masters==

Sleeve pattern

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

style="height:10px""

|

align="center"|Degree

|align="center"|Oxford MA

|align="center"|Cambridge MA

|align="center"|Dublin MA

|align="center"|Wales MA

|align="center"|London MA

|align="center"|Victoria MA

|align="center"|Lampeter BD

|align="center"|Leicester MA

|align="center"|Bristol MA

bgcolor="#C0C0C0"

!Code number

[m1][m2][m3][m4][m5][m6][m7][m8][m9]
style="height:30px"

|

align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

|align="center"|90px

style="height:10px""

|

align="center"|Basic Master

|align="center"|Lancaster MA

|align="center"|Scottish MA

|align="center"|Not used

|align="center"|Open

|align="center"|Warwick MA

|align="center"|Bath MA

|align="center"|Sussex MA

|align="center"|Manchester MA

|align="center"|King's MA

bgcolor="#C0C0C0"

![m10]

[m11][m12][m13][m14][m15][m16][m17][m18][m19]

==Doctors==

class="wikitable sortable"
CodeExampleNotes
colspan="3" align="center" | Doctors/Special gowns
[d1]Cambridge doctorswide open sleeves, similar to [b1], with the wrist turned back and held with a cord and button
[d2]Oxford doctorsbell sleeves
[d3]Cambridge MusDsmall bell sleeves with cuff
[d4]Cambridge LL.D undressflap-collar (QC's) gown
[d5]Oxford convocation habitsleeveless habit closed with two buttons at the front
[d6]Sussex doctorsMA-style sleeve with vertical slit, base hollowed into B shape
[d7]Astonnarrow sleeves
[d8]Cambridge DD undressbell sleeves gathered at wrist

=Headwear=

class="wikitable sortable"
CodeExampleNotes
[h1]Mortarboarda square board attached to a skull cap, often with a button and tassel
[h2]Tudor bonneta round soft hat with brim, often with a cord and tassels
[h3]John Knox capa square soft cap
[h4]Bishop Andrewes caplike [h1] but soft and with a silk tuff in lieu of button and tassel
[h5]Oxford ladies' capa soft square cap with a flap at the back and held up with two buttons
[h6]Sussex pileusa round cylindrical cap with a covered button on the top
[h7]Leicester doctoral capa modified biretta
[h8]UEA BAa skull cap with upturned brim (no longer used in practice, though still prescribed officially as the undergraduate cap)
[h9]UEA MAa skull cap with a triangular structure on top (no longer used by students, though worn by the Registrar at congregation ceremonies)

Additions

The Groves classification system was first published in 2001. Since that time, it has been adapted and changed to include newly devised academic dress and revisions of existing schemes. The Burgon Society maintains a comprehensive listing of system shapes on its website. In addition to those included above, the current list classifies undergraduate gowns in use throughout the United Kingdom and academic headwear.{{Cite web|url=http://www.burgon.org.uk/design/groves.php|title=The Design of Academical Dress|publisher=The Burgon Society|access-date=2011-04-04|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090223213337/http://www.burgon.org.uk/design/groves.php|archive-date=2009-02-23|url-status=dead}}

=American doctoral robes=

File:ICC Doctor Gown.JPG

In 2012, David Boven devised a system of classification to include unique doctoral robes in the United States of America. The Intercollegiate Code describes the form of dress for doctors at American institutions, but many have changed the colors of their robes.{{cite journal |last1=Boven |first1=David T. |title=A Touch of Colour: Surveying Variation in American Academic Dress and a System of Categories for Departures |journal=Transactions of the Burgon Society |date=2012 |volume=12 |pages=86–102 |doi=10.4148/2475-7799.1102 |url=https://newprairiepress.org/burgonsociety/vol12/iss1/7/ |access-date=26 February 2020|doi-access=free }} Several institutions have even developed unique forms of robes for the doctoral graduates. In all of these instances, there are some cases where institutions have developed "unique academic dress for their doctoral degree-holders" which does not easily fit into existing systems.{{rp|95}}

==ICC Shape==

class="wikitable"
CodeGown ColorFacing/Bar ColorPiping
[c1]ICC blackICC black (or discipline color)Colored
[c2]ICC blackColoredColored (or black)
[c3]ColoredICC black (or discipline color)Colored (or black)
[c4]ColoredColoredColored (or black)

==Unique shapes==

class="wikitable"
CodeNameDescription
[c5]PrincetonSimilar to ICC, but velvet removed from the robe and replaced with faille orange facings and sleeve bars. Sleeves shortened and orange lining added. Designed to be worn open.
[c6]StanfordModified version of the Cambridge doctors [d1] robe. Side panels of gown body cardinal red with black facings and black yoke. Sleeves black with cuffs covered in red and also lined in satin indicating discipline. Facings bear coat of arms. Designed to be worn open.
[c7]Stony BrookBlue robes with no sleeve bars, but three gold rays extending from bottom of sleeves and coming to point at shoulder. Right shoulder bears small representation of university’s seal. Rays attached to sleeve at wrist and shoulder, but remain unattached for rest of length.
[c8]RITBased on standard ICC robe with velvet facings and sleeve bars, but with addition of long pointed sleeves similar to the Cambridge doctor’s [d1] robe

References

{{Reflist}}

Further reading

  • Nicholas Groves (ed.) (2011) Shaw's Academical Dress of Great Britain and Ireland; 3rd ed. Published by the Burgon Society, {{ISBN|978-0-95612723-5}}

{{academic dress}}

Category:Academic dress

Category:Classification systems