Haik (garment)

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The haik ({{langx|ar|حايك}})({{langx|ar|حائك}}) is a traditional women's garment worn in Algeria.{{cite book|title=E.J. Brill's First Encyclopaedia of Islam 1913-1936|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xd5VonTOppMC&pg=PA220|year=1987|publisher=BRILL|isbn=90-04-08265-4|page=220}}{{cite web|url=https://www.library.cornell.edu/colldev/mideast/shroud.htm|title=The Shroud Over Algeria: Femicide, Islamism and the Hijab|access-date=2016-08-09|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140126150544/http://www.library.cornell.edu/colldev/mideast/shroud.htm|archive-date=2014-01-26|url-status=dead}} It can be white or black, though is usually white. It consists of a rectangular fabric covering the whole body,{{cite book|author1=Ambroise Queffélec|author2=Yacine Derradji|author3=Valéry Debov|author4=Dalila Smaali-Dekdouk|author5=Yasmina Cherrad-Benchefra|title=Le français en Algérie: Lexique et dynamique des langues|publisher=Duculot|place=Brussels|year=2002|page=343|isbn=2-8011-1294-1}} {{convert|6x2.2|m}} in length, rolled up then held at the waist by a belt and then brought back to the shoulders to be fixed by fibulae.

Etymology

The word is borrowed from the Maghrebi Arabic word {{transliteration|ar|hayk}}, which comes from the Arabic verb {{transliteration|ar|hāka}} which means "to weave". First used in French in the form {{lang|fr|heque}} (1654), it underwent many variations{{snd}} {{lang|fr|hayque}} (1667), {{lang|fr|alhaic}} (1670), {{lang|fr|eque}} (1670), {{lang|fr|haic}} (1683), {{lang|fr|hayc}} (1686). The word {{lang|fr|haik}} in French was at first of the feminine gender (1725) and became masculine in 1830.Alain Rey, Dictionnaire historique de la langue française, Le Robert, Paris, 1992 {{ISBN|2-85036-187-9}}.

Origins and description

File:Les navigations, peregrinations et voyages, faicts en la Turquie, par Nicolas de Nicolay - no-nb digibok 2013080124004-47.jpg

The haik is of Arab-Andalusian origin,{{cite web|title=Histoire du Hayek|url=http://www.daraziza.com/hayek/histoire.html|website=www.daraziza.com|access-date=2017-11-04|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200217075557/http://www.daraziza.com:80/hayek/histoire.html|archive-date=17 February 2020}} and present throughout the Maghreb.{{cite book|author=Hugh Murray|title=The Encyclopædia of Geography: Comprising a Complete Description of the Earth, Physical, Statistical, Civil, and Political ...|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xpBPAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA15|year=1838|publisher=Carey, Lea and Blanchard|page=15}}{{Cite web|title = El-Haik, une histoire à découvrir...au musée des arts populaires de Médéa|url = http://www.huffpostmaghreb.com/2015/06/29/el-haik-une-histoire-a-decouvrirau-musee-des-arts-populaires-de-medea_n_7687824.html|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20160130110321/http://www.huffpostmaghreb.com/2015/06/29/el-haik-une-histoire-a-decouvrirau-musee-des-arts-populaires-de-medea_n_7687824.html|url-status = usurped|archive-date = January 30, 2016|website = Al Huffington Post|date=29 June 2015|access-date = 2016-01-24}} In 1792, the m'laya, a black veil, popular in the eastern part of Algeria, made its appearance to mourn Salah Bey, Bey of Constantine.{{Cite web|title=El Haïk, une étoffe symbole de pureté|url=http://dziriya.net/el-haik-une-etoffe-symbole-de-purete/|website=dziriya.net|access-date=2016-01-24|archive-date=2017-09-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170905231550/http://dziriya.net/el-haik-une-etoffe-symbole-de-purete/|url-status=dead}} Made from wool, silk or synthetic silk fabric, the haik succeeded, in a very short time, to spread throughout all regions of the country, but its use was adapted to the socio-cultural specificities of the region. English anthropologist Thomas Athol Joyce describes women's attire of Algeria in his book, Women of all nations, a record of their characteristics, habits, manners, customs and influence (1915):

{{quote|The dress of Arab women usually consists of a white striped shawl, called a haik, made of coarse or fine stuff according to the social position and wealth of the wearer, which is thrown over the head, and completely veils the user from head to feet. Underneath this haik, arranged across the lower part of the face so that it covers all but the eyes, the bridge of the nose, and a small portion of the forehead left uncovered by the haik, is worn a handkerchief of white linen known as an adjar, which is fastened securely across the face. The costume of Berber women is simpler than that of the Arabs, and consists chiefly of a long tunic-like garment fastened with a girdle round the waist, and a coloured shawl or cloth worn over the shoulders. The women are permitted much greater freedom than among the Arabs, and the all-enveloping veil or haik is not worn. Their ornaments consist chiefly of necklaces, bracelets, chains of gold or beads, ear-rings, and sometimes nose-rings.{{Cite book |last=Joyce |first=Thomas Athol |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=BE7aAAAAMAAJ |title=Women of All Nations: A Record of Their Characteristics, Habits, Manners, Customs, and Influence |date=1915 |publisher=Funk & Wagnalls Company |pages=224 |language=en}}}}

One variety of the haik, the {{transliteration|ar|haik mrama}}, became very popular among women for its design, the way it was worn, and the quality of the fabric used by artisans. The {{transliteration|ar|haik mrama}} appeared at the end of the nineteenth century and was worn by urban women of Algiers and its suburbs. This type of veil is often associated with feminine beauty and has inspired many Chaabi poets and singers, who dedicated many of their works to them.{{Cite web |title=The Hayek, A Typical Algerian Heritage |url=https://www.aboutalgeria.com/2019/11/the-hayek-typical-algerian-heritage.html |access-date=2023-06-26 |website=About Algeria {{!}} Discover Algeria}}

A variation on the haik called the huik was worn from the 14th until the late 19th century in the Netherlands and Belgium, usually black and made of wool or silk. It was worn by women as a protection against bad weather. Later variants were worn during a period of mourning.

Present-day use

In Algeria, the haik tends to be abandoned. However, old women wear it, although rarely.{{Cite web|title=Le haïk, attribut de la femme Algéroise n'est plus {{!}} Radio Algérienne|url=https://radioalgerie.dz/news/fr/article/20140511/879.html|access-date=2022-02-19|website=radioalgerie.dz|language=fr}}
In Morocco, the use of haik has all but disappeared, except in the cities of Chefchaouen, Essaouira and Figuig, and rare appearances by old women in Oujda.{{cite book|title=Le français au Maroc: Lexique et contacts de langues|author1=Fouzia Benzakour|author2=Driss Gaadi|author3=Ambroise Queffélec|place=Brussels|publisher=Duculot|year=2000|isbn=2-8011-1260-7|page=213}} The color of the haik is black or blue in the cities of Taroudant and Tiznit.
In Tunisia, the sefseri, a Tunisian variant of haik made of a single piece of cloth that does not cover the face, has been virtually abandoned. However, it is still sometimes traditionally worn,{{cite book|author=Ann Jousiffe|title=Tunisia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Boo4GQdE-bcC&pg=PA25|year=2008|publisher=New Holland Publishers|isbn=978-1-84537-864-6|page=25}}{{Dead link|date=September 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} especially by older women.