Holy Trinity Barbecue

{{Short description|Defunct restaurant in Portland, Oregon, U.S.}}

{{Infobox restaurant

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| name = Holy Trinity Barbecue

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| logo_alt = Black-and-white logo with the text "Holy Trinity Barbecue"

| image = Food cart pod outside John's Marketplace on SE Powell, PDX, 2021 - 12.jpg

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| image_alt = Photograph of a blue food cart

| image_caption = The food cart's exterior in 2021

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| established = {{Start date and age|2019|05}}

| closed = {{End date and age|2021|10|23}}

| current-owner = Kyle Rensmeyer

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| chef = Kyle Rensmeyer

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| street-address = 3582 Southeast Powell Boulevard

| city = Portland

| county = Multnomah

| state = Oregon

| zip = 97202

| country = United States

| coordinates = {{Coord|45.4965|-122.6267|display=it}}

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Holy Trinity Barbecue (sometimes Holy Trinity BBQ) was a barbecue restaurant in Portland, Oregon.{{Cite web|last=Tepler|first=Benjamin|date=May 18, 2019|title=Holy Trinity Is Some of the City's Best New Barbecue|url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/05/holy-trinity-is-some-of-the-city-s-best-new-barbecue|url-status=live|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Portland Monthly|language=en-US|archive-date=March 8, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210308162203/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/05/holy-trinity-is-some-of-the-city-s-best-new-barbecue}}{{Cite web|last=Vaughn|first=Daniel|date=December 19, 2019|title=Portland Has the Best Texas Barbecue Scene Outside of Texas|url=https://www.texasmonthly.com/bbq/new-portland-barbecue/|url-status=live|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Texas Monthly|language=en|archive-date=April 16, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210416110044/https://www.texasmonthly.com/bbq/new-portland-barbecue/}} Kyle Rensmeyer established the business as a food cart in southeast Portland's neighborhood Creston-Kenilworth in 2019. Holy Trinity and its barbecue garnered a positive reception; The Oregonian deemed Holy Trinity one of the city's best new food carts and Portland Business Journal said its barbecue was "hailed as among the best" in the United States. The restaurant closed in October 2022 and Rensmeyer has since held pop-ups.

Description

Holy Trinity operated from a food cart in a parking lot on Powell Boulevard in southeast Portland's neighborhood Creston-Kenilworth.{{Cite web|last=Frane|first=Alex|date=October 14, 2021|title=Portland Barbecue Destination Holy Trinity Is Closing This Month|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2021/10/14/22726384/holy-trinity-closing|url-status=live|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|publisher=Vox Media|language=en|archive-date=October 14, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211014195455/https://pdx.eater.com/2021/10/14/22726384/holy-trinity-closing}}{{Cite web|date=December 26, 2019|title=Portland's Restaurant Newcomers of 2019, According to the City's Food Writers and Personalities|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/12/26/21035679/year-in-eater-2019-restaurant-newcomers|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=February 16, 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200216134914/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/12/26/21035679/year-in-eater-2019-restaurant-newcomers|url-status=live}} The cart was part of a pod outside John's Marketplace,{{Cite web |title=Where to Drink in Portland Right Now |url=https://www.thrillist.com/drink/portland/best-bars-in-portland |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190306044740/https://www.thrillist.com/drink/portland/best-bars-in-portland |archive-date=March 6, 2019 |access-date=May 2, 2023 |website=Thrillist |language=en}} which operated in a building Original Taco House previously occupied.{{Cite web |last=Andrea Damewood |title=Eat It Up: Portland's Five Most Essential Barbecue Carts |url=https://www.portlandmercury.com/food-and-drink/2019/10/24/27361671/eat-it-up-portlands-five-most-essential-barbecue-carts |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221205141017/https://www.portlandmercury.com/food-and-drink/2019/10/24/27361671/eat-it-up-portlands-five-most-essential-barbecue-carts |archive-date=December 5, 2022 |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Portland Mercury |language=en}} It was named for three constant menu items: smoked sausage, ribs, and smoked brisket.{{efn|Other sources say that the "holy trinity" of American barbecue consists of beef brisket, pulled pork, and spare ribs.{{cite book|title=Die Fleischbibel|trans-title=The Meat Bible|language=German|author1-first=Yannick |author1-last=Meurer|author2-first=Timo |author2-last=Schwarz|publisher={{ill|Heel Verlag|de}}|year=2020|isbn=978-3966641609|oclc=1238212973|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7CLoDwAAQBAJ&pg=PT474}}}} In 2019, David Landsel of Food & Wine wrote:

The little blue trailer that ... Holy Trinity Barbecue calls home is not a thing one just happens to run across; it hides behind approximately six construction fences, adjacent to a shuttered strip mall, currently under redevelopment, out along one of the last great unwashed commercial thoroughfares, Powell Boulevard, in Portland's increasingly scrubbed-up Southeast.{{Cite web |last=Landsel |first=David |date=October 3, 2019 |title=Portland Is the Unlikely Barbecue Hero the West Coast Needed |url=https://www.yahoo.com/now/portland-unlikely-barbecue-hero-west-144524145.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230420203912/https://www.yahoo.com/now/portland-unlikely-barbecue-hero-west-144524145.html |archive-date=2023-04-20 |access-date=2023-04-20 |website=Food & Wine |language=en-US}}

The menu included Texas-style brisket, Czech sausages, pulled pork,{{Cite web |title=Barbecue |url=https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2019/11/05/barbecue/ |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Willamette Week |date=November 5, 2019 |language=en |archive-date=September 26, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220926003754/https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2019/11/05/barbecue/ |url-status=live }} and ribs.{{Cite web|last=Jackson-Glidden|first=Brooke|date=December 20, 2019|title=2019's Rising Stars in Portland's Food and Drink Scene|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/12/20/21031825/2019-rising-stars-portland-food-drink|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=June 12, 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200612140924/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/12/20/21031825/2019-rising-stars-portland-food-drink|url-status=live}}{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=May 21, 2020 |title=Where to Find Barbecue in Portland for Takeout or Delivery |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2020/5/21/21260250/barbecue-korean-texan-carne-asada-barbacoa-jamaican-hawaiian-takeout-delivery-portland-covid-19 |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=July 20, 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210720193916/https://pdx.eater.com/2020/5/21/21260250/barbecue-korean-texan-carne-asada-barbacoa-jamaican-hawaiian-takeout-delivery-portland-covid-19 |url-status=live }} Sides included cheesy grits, pickles,{{Cite web|last=Woo|first=Nick|date=June 10, 2015|title=15 Outstanding Portland Food Carts|url=https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-food-carts-portland|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=September 18, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210918081209/https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-food-carts-portland|url-status=live}} and banana pudding.{{Cite book |last= |first= |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Iz_ZDwAAQBAJ&dq=%22Holy+Trinity+Barbecue%22&pg=PT224 |title=Fodor's Inside Portland |date=April 7, 2020 |publisher=Fodor's Travel |isbn=978-1-64097-251-3 |language=en |access-date=April 20, 2023 |archive-date=April 20, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230420151753/https://books.google.com/books?id=Iz_ZDwAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PT224&dq=%22Holy+Trinity+Barbecue%22&hl=en |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=January 6, 2021 |title=Portland Chefs, Bakers, and Pitmasters on the Stuff They Put on Everything |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2021/1/6/22213758/portland-chefs-bakers-and-pitmasters-favorite-condiments-spreads-seasonings-dips-pantry-staples |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=February 3, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230203073825/https://pdx.eater.com/2021/1/6/22213758/portland-chefs-bakers-and-pitmasters-favorite-condiments-spreads-seasonings-dips-pantry-staples |url-status=live }}

History

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Kyle Rensmeyer opened Holy Trinity in May 2019.{{Cite web |title=2019's Cart Standouts Were All About the Meat and Potatoes |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/10/2019-s-cart-standouts-were-all-about-the-meat-and-potatoes |access-date=May 2, 2023 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=September 26, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220926191655/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/10/2019-s-cart-standouts-were-all-about-the-meat-and-potatoes |url-status=live }}{{Cite web|last=Jackson-Glidden|first=Brooke|date=February 26, 2019|title=Another Texas Barbecue Cart Is Joining the Increasingly Competitive Portland Market|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/2/26/18241640/holy-trinity-barbecue-cart-q-portland|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=June 12, 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200612140938/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/2/26/18241640/holy-trinity-barbecue-cart-q-portland|url-status=live}} The business initially operated on weekends, and added Thursday and Friday service in August 2019.{{Cite web|last=Jackson-Glidden|first=Brooke|date=August 16, 2019|title=Longstanding Steakhouse Ringside Now Has a Killer New Happy Hour|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/8/16/20808831/ringside-reopening-happy-hour-cage-free-oregon-holy-trinity-bbq-carts-vandals-la-neta-change|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=September 13, 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190913200348/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/8/16/20808831/ringside-reopening-happy-hour-cage-free-oregon-holy-trinity-bbq-carts-vandals-la-neta-change|url-status=live}}{{Cite web |title=Did New Food Truck Holy Trinity Just Steal Portland's Texas BBQ Crown? |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/07/did-new-food-truck-holy-trinity-just-steal-portlands-texas-bbq-crown |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=July 1, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220701192213/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2019/07/did-new-food-truck-holy-trinity-just-steal-portlands-texas-bbq-crown |url-status=live }} Tortillas were sourced from Caramelo Tortillas in Lawrence, Kansas, as of 2019.{{Cite journal |last=Gallagher |first=Natalie Torres |date=July 24, 2019 |title=Elite BBQ Spots All Over America Now Serve Righteous Flour Tortillas From Kansas |url=https://kansascitymag.com/uncategorized/elite-bbq-spots-all-over-america-now-serve-righteous-flour-tortillas-from-kansas/ |journal=Kansas City Magazine |access-date=April 20, 2023 |archive-date=October 22, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221022204453/https://kansascitymag.com/uncategorized/elite-bbq-spots-all-over-america-now-serve-righteous-flour-tortillas-from-kansas/ |url-status=live }}

Like many businesses, Holy Trinity's business model changed during the COVID-19 pandemic. Holy Trinity sold chilled and vacuum-packed meats in bulk via delivery until the health department received a complaint. The delivery operation was shut down and following a trial in late March, Rensmeyer and an employee "[established] a protocol that [allowed] for a relatively risk-free pickup situation and minimal wait times".{{Cite web |title=Can American Barbecue Survive This? |url=https://www.foodandwine.com/travel/restaurants/can-american-barbecue-survive-this |access-date=May 2, 2023 |website=Food & Wine |language=en |archive-date=February 17, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230217142301/https://www.foodandwine.com/travel/restaurants/can-american-barbecue-survive-this |url-status=live }} Holy Trinity offered Thanksgiving options as take out.{{Cite web |date=November 18, 2020 |title=Support your Portland restaurants with Thanksgiving-to-go |url=https://www.koin.com/news/support-your-portland-restaurants-with-thanksgiving-to-go/ |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=KOIN.com |language=en-US |archive-date=March 8, 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210308140557/https://www.koin.com/news/support-your-portland-restaurants-with-thanksgiving-to-go/ |url-status=live }} Rensmeyer closed the food cart for two days during a heat wave in July 2021, resulting in a loss of $7,000.{{Cite web|last=Asmelash|first=Leah|date=July 1, 2021|title=As the Pacific Northwest heats up, restaurants are grappling with a new wave of challenges|url=https://www.cnn.com/2021/07/01/us/pacific-northwest-restaurants-heat-wave-struggle-trnd/index.html|url-status=live|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=CNN|archive-date=July 1, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210701232553/https://www.cnn.com/2021/07/01/us/pacific-northwest-restaurants-heat-wave-struggle-trnd/index.html}}

In October 2021, Rensmeyer confirmed plans to close on October 23.{{Cite web|last=Russell|first=Michael|date=October 14, 2021|title=One of Portland's best barbecue carts is closing next week|url=https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2021/10/one-of-portlands-best-barbecue-carts-is-closing-next-week.html|url-status=live|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=The Oregonian|language=en|archive-date=October 14, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211014195454/https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2021/10/one-of-portlands-best-barbecue-carts-is-closing-next-week.html}} Christopher Bjorke of Portland Business Journal said the business "won praise from here to Texas" but closed "amid flagging sales".{{Cite journal |last=Bjorke |first=Christopher |date=December 14, 2021 |title=PDX restaurant requiem: Favorite Portland eateries that closed this year |url=https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2021/12/14/restaurants-portland.html |journal=Portland Business Journal |quote=Novice chef and amateur smoker Kyle Rensmeyer opened his food cart Holy Trinity BBQ two years ago and won praise from here to Texas. But he closed shop in October amid flagging sales. |access-date=May 2, 2023 |archive-date=December 15, 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211215000715/https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2021/12/14/restaurants-portland.html |url-status=live }} Holy Trinity continued to operate as a pop-up,{{Cite web |title=The Best Barbecue in Every State |url=https://www.foodandwine.com/travel/best-bbq-restaurants |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Food & Wine |language=en |archive-date=March 17, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230317221408/https://www.foodandwine.com/travel/best-bbq-restaurants |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |title=Portland's Best Spots for Smoky Southern Barbecue |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/best-southern-barbecue-bbq-portland |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=January 27, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230127151351/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/best-southern-barbecue-bbq-portland |url-status=live }} including a dinner collaboration at Renata and a stint at Culmination Brewing in May 2022.{{Cite web |title=Hello, Goodbye: A Roundup of the City's Newest Dishes a Portlander Will Miss After Moving to the East Coast |url=https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2022/10/12/hello-goodbye-a-roundup-of-the-citys-newest-dishes-a-portlander-will-miss-after-moving-to-the-east-coast/ |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Willamette Week |date=October 12, 2022 |language=en |archive-date=January 14, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230114085542/https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2022/10/12/hello-goodbye-a-roundup-of-the-citys-newest-dishes-a-portlander-will-miss-after-moving-to-the-east-coast/ |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |title=Portland Food News and Events: May 19–25 |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2022/05/food-news-may-19-2022 |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=November 9, 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221109162107/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2022/05/food-news-may-19-2022 |url-status=live }}

Reception

Michael Russell of The Oregonian deemed Holy Trinity one of Portland's best new food carts.{{Cite web |title=Holy Trinity Barbecue smokes meats in Southeast Portland |url=https://www.oregonlive.com/galleries/2OMXKGDNNZA7BE7W3VWJPG3KEY/ |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211026122406/https://www.oregonlive.com/galleries/2OMXKGDNNZA7BE7W3VWJPG3KEY/ |archive-date=October 26, 2021 |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=The Oregonian |language=en}} In 2019, the business was included in Portland Mercury{{'s}} list of the city's five "most essential" barbecue carts, as well as Portland Monthly{{'s}} overview of the best new restaurants and "standout" carts. Writers for the magazine said, "Five minutes after Holy Trinity opens, a line already snakes outside of Rensmeyer’s royal blue cart, which opened in May, sparking debate over which PDX food cart serves the best Texas barbecue ... Whatever the alchemy behind Rensmeyer's seemingly simple meat-craft, it's a winning formula: for our money it's one of the best spots, if not the best, to get Texas barbecue in the city."

File:Food cart pod outside John's Marketplace on SE Powell, PDX, 2021 - 14.jpg

Comparing the restaurant to Matt's BBQ in 2019, Thrillist's Pete Cottell said Holy Trinity "is giving Matt's a run for its money as the resident siren for authentic 'cue-deprived Texans". Holy Trinity was a finalist in the Food Cart of the Year category of Eater Portland{{'s}} 2019 Eater Awards. Brooke Jackson-Glidden said, "Portland is already spoiled on the barbecue front; it didn't need another hardcore talent with a smoker. But the Texas barbecue at Jojo's neighbor, Holy Trinity, is far better than it needs to be, with gorgeous brisket, well-seasoned sausages, and knockout green-chile-cheese grits."{{Cite web|last=Jackson-Glidden|first=Brooke|date=November 18, 2019|title=Meet the Finalists for Eater Portland's Best Restaurant of 2019 and More|url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/11/18/20970882/eater-awards-2019-finalists-best-design-restaurant-food-cart|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=September 4, 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200904112840/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/11/18/20970882/eater-awards-2019-finalists-best-design-restaurant-food-cart|url-status=live}} She also named Rensmeyer a "rising star" in the city's food and drink scene.

In 2021, Jackson-Glidden and Nick Woo included Holy Trinity in Eater Portland{{'s}} list of 15 outstanding Portland food carts. She also included the business in a 2021 list of the city's 38 "essential" eateries.{{Cite web|last=Jackson-Glidden|first=Brooke|date=January 9, 2018|title=The 38 Essential Restaurants and Food Carts in Portland|url=https://pdx.eater.com/maps/38-best-portland-oregon-restaurants|access-date=October 14, 2021|website=Eater Portland|language=en|archive-date=September 25, 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210925020237/https://pdx.eater.com/maps/38-best-portland-oregon-restaurants|url-status=live}} Alyssa Therrien included Holy Trinity in the Daily Hive{{'s}} 2021 list of seven of the "juiciest" barbecue eateries in the metropolitan area.{{Cite web |title=7 of the juiciest barbecue spots in and around Portland {{!}} Dished |url=https://dailyhive.com/portland/portland-best-barbecue |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210905221150/https://dailyhive.com/portland/portland-best-barbecue |archive-date=September 5, 2021 |access-date=April 20, 2023 |website=Daily Hive |language=en}} Covering Holy Trinity's pending closure, Christopher Bjorke of Portland Business Journal said the business "had won local recognition for its food as well as being named as one of the best Texas-style barbecues outside the state by Texas Monthly".{{Cite journal |last=Bjorke |first=Christopher |date=October 15, 2021 |title=Top Portland barbecue spot is closing this month |url=https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2021/10/15/top-portland-barbecue-s.html |url-status=live |journal=Portland Business Journal |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220108164852/https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2021/10/15/top-portland-barbecue-s.html |archive-date=January 8, 2022 |access-date=April 20, 2023}} Portland Mercury{{'s}} food columnist Janey Wong called the closure "a gut-wrenching loss". Bill Oakley also considered the closure a loss, and Jackson-Glidden wrote: "it's hard for me to ignore the way my heart broke when Holy Trinity announced its closure. Considering its brief tenure in Portland, I have so many fond memories of eating Holy Trinity beef ribs, those green chile grits, that banana pudding. I'll admit, I'm still holding out hope it returns eventually, in one form or another."{{Cite web |last= |first= |date=December 20, 2021 |title=Portland Food Writers' Saddest Restaurant and Food Cart Closures of 2021 |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2021/12/20/22846862/year-in-eater-saddest-closings-2021-portland |access-date=May 2, 2023 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=March 21, 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230321204824/https://pdx.eater.com/2021/12/20/22846862/year-in-eater-saddest-closings-2021-portland |url-status=live }}