Janga (mountain)

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Janga

| other_name = Dzhangi-Tau or Jangi-Tau

| etymology =

| native_name ={{native name|ka|ჯანღა}}

| translation =

| pronunciation =

| photo = Shkhara Katyntau southside en.jpg

| photo_caption = Main Caucasus Ridge panorama between Katyn-Tau and Shkara peaks from georgian side. 2011

| elevation_m = 5085

| elevation_ref =

| map = Caucasus mountains#Russia Kabardino-Balkaria#Georgia Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

| map_caption = Location of Janga within the Caucasus mountains

| location = Mestia, Georgia / Russia

| parent = Caucasus Mountains

| coordinates = {{coord|43|1|5|N|43|3|29|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| country = Russia and Georgia

| mountain_type =

| age =

| first_ascent = 1888

| easiest_route =

}}

Janga or Jangi-Tau or Dzhangi-Tau Archil Badriashvili [http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214258/Dzhangi-tau-Southwest-Face-Kartvelishvili-Route-with-Variant Dzhangi-tau, Southwest Face, Kartvelishvili Route with Variant] The American Alpine Club 2020 ({{lang-ka|ჯანღა}} {{IPA|ka|dʒanɣa|}}; {{Langx|ru|Джанги-Тау}}, Džangi-Tau) is a summit in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. Mountain has three peaks - the main peak Jangi-Tau with elevation above sea level {{Convert|5085|m|ft|0|abbr=on}},[https://peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10413 Jangi-Tau, Russia/Georgia] peakbagger.com West Peak with elevation {{Convert|5059|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}[https://peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10412 Jangi-Tau - West Peak, Russia/Georgia] peakbagger.com and East Peak with elevation {{Convert|5034|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}[https://peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10415 Jangi-Tau - East Peak, Russia/Georgia] peakbagger.com Mountain lies on the border of Svaneti (Georgia) and Kabardino-Balkaria (Russia).[https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Dzhangi-Tau/forecasts/5051 Dzhangi-Tau. Weather Forecast, Georgia] mountain-forecast.com The slopes of the mountain are heavily glaciated. They are most famous for the dormant volcanoes that are hidden under the ice caps{{Citation needed|date=September 2011}}.

History

On September 12, 1888, English climber John Garford Cockin with Swiss guides Ulrich Almer and Christian Roth, were the first to climb East Janga, who had climbed the main ridge a few days earlier, and later - Ushba and Dykh-Tau.J. G. Cockin, « Shkara, Janga, and Ushba », The Alpine Journal, vol. XVI, n° 122, novembre 1893, pp. 477-494 - reproduced in Douglas W. Freshfield, [https://search.library.wisc.edu/digital/ACA6IJKBCQI4HV87/pages/A5S2YNIDXJ2SYX8S The exploration of Caucasus], E. Arnold, 1896, Volume II, pp. 38-58 The most difficult, 5 B category (Russian Grading) route (south-western wall) was first traced by Georgian mountaineers (Grisha Gulbani - group leader Giorgi Berdzenishvili, Jokia Gugava, Sozar Gugava, Ilo Kavlashvili, Suliko Khabeishvili). The first ascent to the main Janga also belongs to foreign climbers.[http://www.sok.ge/ge/%e1%83%af%e1%83%90%e1%83%9c%e1%83%a6%e1%83%90/ Jangha] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160407145709/http://www.sok.ge/ge/%e1%83%af%e1%83%90%e1%83%9c%e1%83%a6%e1%83%90/ |date=2016-04-07 }} The Olympians Club of Georgia

On July 23, 1935, they climbed the peak of the north-eastern ridge (5 A category, Russian Grading ) to R. Schwarzgruber (group leader) v. Marini, f. Peringer et al. Thaler. Only one route passes through the Khalde Glacier. In 1965, Givi Kartvelishvili (group leader), Tamaz Bakanidze, Nugzar Bakradze, Besik Bakradze, Tengiz Berishvili and Dimitri Sharashenidze reached the peak of the main wall through the south wall of the USSR championship program. West Janga is the most inaccessible among the peaks of the array.

It cannot be taken from the north due to "frost and avalanche" danger. There are two routes from Khalde Glacier (1960 - Otar Khazaradze, 1964 - I. Reformatorski).

References

Category:Mountains of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti

Category:Mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria

Category:Georgia (country)–Russia border

Category:International mountains of Europe

Category:Five-thousanders of the Caucasus