John Lobb Bootmaker
{{Short description|British shoemaker}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2019}}
{{Use British English|date=October 2010}}
{{Infobox company
|name = John Lobb Limited
|image = Diamond Jubilee- 3rd June 2012 (7541415058).jpg
|type = Private limited company{{cite web|url= https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/01072595 |title= Company information |work= Companies House |access-date= 28 December 2020}}
|foundation = 1849 (as a bootmaker){{cite web |url=https://www.royalwarrant.org/company/john-lobb-ltd |title=John Lobb Ltd |work=Royal Warrant Holders Association |access-date=2020-12-30}}
1866 (London shop opened)
|founder = John Lobb
|location = 9 St James's Street
London, United Kingdom
|industry = Shoemaking
|products = Bespoke shoes, boots and accessories
|owner = Lobb family{{cite web|url= https://www.johnlobb1849.com/about/the-family |title= The Family |work= johnlobb1849.com |access-date= 17 May 2024}}
|homepage = {{URL|johnlobb1849.com}}
}}
John Lobb Bootmaker is a business that manufactures and retails a luxury brand of shoes and boots, mainly for men but also for women. Leather goods such as wallets and belts are also available. Founded in 1849 by John Lobb (1829–95),{{Cite ODNB|id=61386|title=Lobb, John|last=McConnell|first=Anita|author-link=Anita McConnell|date=23 September 2004}} the business has been in operation since 1866 in London and circa 1900 in Paris.{{cite video|year=2012 |title=By Royal Appointment |url=http://www.itv.com/itvplayer/video/?Filter=319628 |publisher=ITV3 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120629035710/http://www.itv.com/itvplayer/video/?Filter=319628 |archive-date=29 June 2012 |access-date=24 June 2012 |time=8:00pm |url-status=dead }}[http://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/8973fc26-f3ba-4d1c-b9a6-b8b86c96c93d#0 Gov.uk, National archives] John Lobb's son William took over the business, and after he died in 1916, the firm was led by Betsy Lobb.
The original London bespoke workshop at 9 St James's Street remains family-owned and continues to operate independently (as John Lobb Limited). In 1976, the French branch of the business was acquired by the Hermès Group, which has developed the John Lobb ready-to-wear shoe brand around the world. The two companies continue to maintain their bespoke shoe-making tradition, with the Lobb family's workshop in London and the Hermès-owned workshop in Paris.[https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/john-lobb-scaling-craft-based-business Robin Mellery-Pratt, John Lobb, Scaling a Craft-Based, 07/05/2014 in Business of fashion]
History
John Lobb opened his first store in Sydney, Australia, in 1854.{{Cite news |date=1854-06-03 |title=Advertising |work=Empire |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article60196788 |access-date=2023-04-12}} Lobb's initial success was in the importation of men's and women's shoes and boots, particularly women's footwear. Together with his lead bootmaker, William Cassull, John Lobb cemented his reputation as one of the Colony's top bootmakers.{{Cite news |date=1861-03-07 |title=SCHOOL OF ARTS' EXHIBITION |work=Sydney Morning Herald |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13053737 |access-date=2023-04-13}} In 1862, John Lobb, in collaboration with local tanner Alderson & Sons, and with Cassull as lead bootmaker, produced a pair of polished leather riding boots that won the Prize Medal at the 1862 International Exhibition.{{Cite news |date=1863-07-06 |title=Advertising |work=Sydney Morning Herald |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13081104 |access-date=2023-04-13}}{{Cite news |date=1862-08-16 |title=AUSTRALIAN LEATHER MANUFACTURES. |work=Mercury |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article8809746 |access-date=2023-04-13}}{{Cite news |date=1866-01-08 |title=Advertising |work=Sydney Morning Herald |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article13124324 |access-date=2023-04-13}}
In 1866, John Lobb opened a shop in London and produced footwear for European royalty.{{cite book|last=Dobbs|first=Brian|title=The Last Shall Be First: The Colourful Story of John Lobb The St. James's Bootmakers|year=1972|publisher=Elm Tree Books|isbn=0241022738}}{{cite book|author=Nicholas Storey|title=History of Men's Fashion: What the Well-dressed Man is Wearing|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=DUCREiwLDR8C&pg=PA66|year=2008|publisher=Casemate Publishers|isbn=978-1-84468-037-5|page=66}} He died in 1895, and his son William took over the business. Unusually, the firm did not mechanise like its competitors but stuck to craft techniques. Following the success of the London shop, William opened a shop in Paris in 1901 and another (unprofitable) shop in Regent Street, London, in 1904.
In 1901, William Lobb married Betsy Smerdon, and after the wedding, they went on a grand tour. William died in 1916, and it was Betsy who saved the business.{{Cite book |url=https://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/8973fc26-f3ba-4d1c-b9a6-b8b86c96c93d |title=John Lobb Ltd |date=1899–1986 |others=
In 1976, Hermès was allowed to use the "John Lobb" brand name. Only about 100 pairs of ready-to-wear shoes are finished per day. The original, family-owned John Lobb firm still produces handmade shoes, one pair at a time. Until the 1980s, the business operated only custom-made activity in London and in Paris. From 1982 onwards, the ready-to-wear activity has complemented the made-to-measure, and distribution has expanded.
The London company was the subject of a 1945 British Pathé film, Shoes for the Famous,{{cite web |publisher=British Pathé |title=Shoes for the Famous |url=http://www.britishpathe.com/video/shoes-for-the-famous/query/lobb |access-date=15 September 2016}} and an episode of the June 2016 BBC Four documentary series, Handmade: By Royal Appointment.{{Cite episode |title= John Lobb Shoes |series= Handmade: By Royal Appointment |url= http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b07g9q28 |access-date= 13 June 2016 |station= BBC Four |date= 13 June 2016 |number= 2 }}
Present operations
The London bespoke workshop, John Lobb Limited, remains at 9 St James's Street and is still independently operating as a family business.
In 1976, John Lobb Paris became part of the Hermès Group. The ready-to-wear collection debuted in 1982, and the first store showcasing the line opened in 1990 in Paris. In June 2014, the Hermès Group announced the appointment of Paula Gerbase as John Lobb's first ever Artistic Director.[https://www.nytimes.com/2014/11/14/business/international/john-lobbs-shoes-paula-gerbase.html John Lobb Spruces Up Its Classic Footwear] The New York Times, Matthew Schneier, 13 November 2014
Gallery
File:Royal warrants of John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London (2).jpg|Royal Warrants of John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, London
File:Lobb bootmakers London.JPG|Storefront and workplace of John Lobb, London
File:Shop_interior_of_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg|Shop interior of John Lobb, London
File:Display_of_boots_at_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg|Boots from John Lobb, London
File:Workplace_of_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg|Workplace of John Lobb, London
File:Display of men's shoes at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London (2).jpg|Display of shoes at John Lobb, London
File:Shoemaker working at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London.jpg|Shoemaker at work, John Lobb, London
File:Selection_of_leather_swatches_at_John_Lobb,_bespoke_shoe_and_bootmaker,_88_Jermyn_Street,_London.jpg|Selection of leather swatches at John Lobb, London
File:Shoe lasts of Queen Victoria from 1898 at John Lobb, bespoke shoe and bootmaker, 88 Jermyn Street, London.jpg|Shoe lasts of Queen Victoria
See also
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
{{commons category|John Lobb Bootmaker}}
- [https://www.johnlobb1849.com/ John Lobb Limited] (at 9 St James's Street, London)
- [https://www.johnlobb.com/ John Lobb SAS] (part of the Hermès Group)
{{British Royal Warrant holders}}
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Lobb Ltd, John}}
Category:Shoe companies of the United Kingdom
Category:Manufacturing companies established in 1849
Category:Retail companies established in 1849
Category:1849 establishments in England
Category:British royal warrant holders