Jomolhari

The mountain is sacred to Tibetan Buddhists who believe it is the abode of one of the Five Tsheringma Sisters;Lopon Kunzang Thinley, 2008. p. 200 (jo mo tshe ring mched lnga) — female protector goddesses (Jomo) of Tibet and Bhutan, who were bound under oath by Padmasambhava to protect the land, the Buddhist faith and the local people.

On the Bhutanese side is a [https://bhutanpilgrimage.com/jomolhari-where-guru-rinpoche-meditated-in-a-cave-before-flying-to-tibet/ Jomolhari Temple], toward the south side of the mountain about a half-day's journey from the army outpost between Thangthangkha and Jangothang at an altitude of 4150 meters. Religious practitioners and pilgrims visiting Mt. Jomolhari stay at this temple. There are several other sacred sites near Jomolhari Temple, including meditation caves of Milarepa and Gyalwa Lorepa.{{Cite web |last= |first= |date= |title=Jomolhari, where Guru Rinpoche Meditated before flying to Tibet |url=https://bhutanpilgrimage.com/jomolhari-where-guru-rinpoche-meditated-in-a-cave-before-flying-to-tibet/ |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=bhutanpilgrimage.com |language=en-US}} Within an hour's walk up from the temple at an altitude of c. 4450 meters is Tseringma Lhatso, the "spirit lake" of Tsheringma.Lopon Kunzang Thinley, 2008. pp. 200-202

In Tibet there is an annual pilgrimage from Pagri to a holy lake, Jomo Lharang, which lies at c. {{convert|5100|m}} elevation, just north of the mountain.

Because Jomolhari was sacred and the home of goddesses, those living nearby believed it was impossible to climb, and that anyone who climbed too high would be thrown down.Chapman, pp 200-201

Despite its notability and spectacular visibility from the old trade route between India and Lhasa that passes through the Chumbi Valley,Chapman, Map showing Author's route for his ascent of Chomolhari the mountain has seen little climbing activity. It was known to climbers passing by on the way to Everest and was scouted by Odell as early as 1924.{{cite journal | title = Observations on the rocks and glaciers of Mount Everest 1925

| first = N. E. | last=Odell | journal =The Geographical Journal | volume = 66 |issue= 4 | date =October 1925 |pages= 289-313 | url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/1782942? | access-date= 23 March 2025}} In 1937 a permission to climb the sacred mountain was granted to a British expedition headed by Freddie Spencer Chapman by both "the Tibetans" and the "Maharajah of Bhutan.Chapman, page 214 Although no refusals are known of earlier climbing requests, Chapman believed this was the reason it had gone unclimbed until 1937. Six porters accompanied the 5 man climbing team from Phari across Sur LaSur La is approximately 4 miles southwest of Chomolhari summit, and 11 miles northeast of Tremo La Chapman, Map showing Author's route for his ascent of Chomolhari into Bhutan. Chapman, page 222, 226 Chapman and Pasang Dawa Lama (a Sherpa who was also part of the American K2 expedition fame) reached the summit via the southeast spur on 21 May 1937.{{cite journal |url= https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/10/10/the-ascent-of-chomolhari-1937/ | journal = Himalayan Journal |volume=10| date=1938 | title=The ascent of Chomolhari 1937 | first = F. Spencer |last=Chapman | access-date= 23 March 2025}} The protracted and epic descent, which they were fortunate to survive, is described in detail in Chapman’s Helvellyn to Himalaya published in 1940.

File:Chomolhari from Chelela.jpg

The second ascent was only on 24 April 1970 -over the same route- by a joint Bhutanese-Indian military expedition led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. This ascent was notable also for the disappearance of two climbing members and a sherpa in the second summit party the following day. Dorjee Lhatoo (Nanda Devi East 1975, West 1981) led the route, partnered with Prem Chand (2nd ascent Kanchenjunga 1977) all the way to the summit via two camps. Lhatoo was charged with laying a "Sachu Bumter" offering on the summit by the Bhutanese King in order to "appease" mountain deities - apparently a pot containing gold, silver and precious stones. The following day, the second party of three were spotted close to the ridge when they became obscured by cloud. When the cloud lifted, they were gone. A telephoto lens and fruit cans were found on the ridge by a search party. Prem Chand went up to the ridge and reported gunshots thudding into the ice and whipping up ice chips - thus ending any further attempts in locating the missing bodies. Lhatoo and Prem Chand, on their way up during their successful summit attempt had reported seeing a lot of PLA activity on the Lhasa-Chumbi highway. The reason for their disappearance remains speculative - did they fall or were they shot? All three were relatively inexperienced climbers and Lhatoo later speculated on the exposure on the knife-edged ridge leading to the summit slope as a possible incident site. He (an ex-Gurkha himself) is quoted as believing the shooting theory to be unlikely but possible, citing his difficulty in estimating the distance between the ridge and possible Chinese positions on the Tibetan side. An account of the expedition is available in the Himalayan Journal 2000. Prem Chand has not spoken publicly on the matter. Chinese displeasure with Bhutan over the expedition and sensitivities in New Delhi led to a complete media blackout of what was otherwise a notable Indian climb.

The third ascent was made in 1996 by a joint Japanese-Chinese expedition which reached the south col from the Tibetan side and climbed the peak over the south ridge. On 7 May 2004, British climbers Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne reached the summit via the c. 5800 m south col as well, in a single day's dash from the col, after attempts to climb the impressive northwest pillar were thwarted by strong winds.{{cite web|url=http://www.rogerpayne.info/Chomolhari%20Report%202004.pdf|title=Chomolhari climbing report|publisher=Roger Payne|year=2004|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120223005744/http://www.rogerpayne.info/Chomolhari%20Report%202004.pdf|archivedate=2012-02-23}}

In October 2006, a six-member Slovenian team climbed two new routes, registering the fifth and sixth ascents. Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Samo Krmelj and Matej Kladnik took the left couloir of the north face to the East ridge at c. 7100 m, from which they followed the ridge to the top, while Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic climbed the northwest ridge in a six-day round trip.{{cite web|url=http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,283,0,1,news.html|title=Chomolhari 2006|publisher=Climb and More|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240222065504/https://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,283,0,1,news.html|archive-date=2024-02-22}} This climb earned Prezelj and Lorencic the Piolet d'Or in January 2007.{{cite web|url=http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=1655|title=Piolet d'Or - 2006: Ascents, comments of the climbers|publisher=mountain.ru|access-date=2024-06-09}}

• Mountains of Bhutan
• Chomo Lonzo
• Chomo Yummo
• Chomolungma
• Chomolhari Kang

{{reflist|refs=

{{cite aaj | article_id=12200544400 | title=Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Yadong County, Chomolhari (7,326m), Alpine Style Ascent

| department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Julie-Ann | last=Clyma

| year=2005 | volume=47 | issue=79 | pages=444 | access-date=2025-06-09}}

{{cite aaj | article_id=12200701400 | title=The Winds of Chomolhari

| department=Feature Article | first=Marko | last=Prezelj

| year=2007 | volume=49 | issue=81 | pages=14 | links=off | access-date=2025-06-09}}

{{cite journal | title=Ascent of Chomolhari | journal=Himalayan Journal | volume=56 | year=2000

| department=Expeditions and Notes | first=Dorjee | last=Lhatoo | pages=149-154

| url=https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/56/16/expeditions-and-notes/#point2 | access-date=2025-06-09}} An account of the second ascent of the mountain from Bhutan in 1970, by a joint Bhutanese-Indian expedition.

}}

;Notes

{{notelist}}

• {{cite book |last1= Chapman |first1= F. Spencer|date= 1940|title= Helvellyn to Himalaya: Including an Account of the First Ascent of Chomolhari

|location= London|publisher=Chatto & Windus}}

• {{cite book|last=Thinley|first=Lopon Kunzang|author2=KMT Research Group|title=Seeds of Faith: A Comprehensive Guide to the Sacred Places of Bhutan. Volume 1

|publisher=KMT Publications|year=2008|location=Thimphu|isbn=99936-22-41-9}}

File:Bundesarchiv Bild 135-KA-06-039, Tibetexpedition, Landschaftsaufnahme.jpg

File:Bundesarchiv Bild 135-S-01-10-18, Tibetexpedition, Landschaftsaufnahme, Gebäude.jpg

File:Bundesarchiv Bild 135-S-06-06-25, Tibetexpedition, Landschaftsaufnahme, Chomolhari.jpg

File:Bundesarchiv Bild 135-S-02-12-21, Tibetexpedition, Landschaftsaufnahme.jpg

File:Mount Jomolhari 2009-10-06 a.jpg| Mt. Jomolhari at dawn from Thangthangkha camp

File:Mount_Jomolhari_2009-10-11_a.jpg| Mt. Jomolhari at dawn from Jangothang

File:Mount_Jomolhari_from_Bhutan_2009-10-11_b.jpg| Mt. Jomolhari from Jangothang, Bhutan

File:Mount Jomolhari from below Neleyla 2009-10-10 a.jpg|Mt Jomolhari viewed from near Neleyla pass

File:Mount Jomolhari from flight.jpg|Mt Jomolhari viewed from flight Kathmandu - Paro

File:Mount Jomolhari 2016.jpg|Mount Jomolhari

• [http://www.schweboo.com/portfolio/chomolhari/ Chomolhari from Tibet] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140303215053/http://www.schweboo.com/portfolio/chomolhari/ |date=2014-03-03 }}
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20110724102925/http://tibet.prm.ox.ac.uk/thumbnails.php?collection=All&inc_collection=inc&photographer=All&inc_photographer=inc®ion=Chomolhari&inc_region=inc&month=All&year=All&namedPerson=All&inc_namedPerson=inc&q=&Submit=Search&adv=1 Pre-1950 photos of Chomolhari]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20180808011310/https://www.panoramio.com/user/1010955/tags/Jumolhari%20Mountain Photos of Jumolhari Mountain from Bhutan]
• [http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=10657 "Chomo Lhari, Bhutan/China" on Peakbagger]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20190501032221/https://www.4dvt.com/jomolhari-china-bhutan.html Virtual Aerial Tour of Jomolhari]

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Category:Mountains of Bhutan

Category:Mountains of Tibet

Category:Sacred mountains of China

Category:Bhutan–China border

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Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas