List of friction hitch knots

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A friction hitch is a kind of knot used to attach one rope to another in a way that is easily adjusted. These knots are commonly used in climbing as part of single-rope technique, doubled-rope technique and as "ratchets" to capture progress on a moving rope, most typically in a mechanical advantage system such as a Z-drag. These hitches are a simple and cheap alternative to mechanical ascenders.

List of friction hitches

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KnotDescriptionImage
Adjustable grip hitchA simple and useful friction hitch, which may easily be shifted up and down the rope while slack.100px
Autoblock (Machard or French Prusik)A friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Commonly used to back up belays. Similar to the Prusik only in function. French Prusik is equivalent to bi-directional Machard.100px
Bachmann hitch100px
Blake's hitchA friction hitch commonly used by arborists and tree climbers as an ascending knot. Blake's hitch is known by some climbers as a Swicero (Suicero) knot or Verones knot.100px
Distel Hitch100px
Ezelius' adjustable grip hitchA slip and grip knot that gives good grip and has a wide range of use. Functions well on a wide range of rope materials, including slippery types like polyamide (nylon) and high-modulus polyethylene (Dynema™). Attaching cord can be of same or smaller diameter. Grip in one direction.100px

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Farrimond friction hitchA quick-release adjustable friction hitch for use on lines under tension.100px
Gripping sailor's hitchA secure, jam-proof hitch used to tie one rope to another, or a rope to a pole, boom, spar, etc., when the pull is lengthwise along the object. It is also known as Michoacan/Martin among friction knots used in climbing.100px
Icicle hitchA knot that is excellent for connecting to a post when weight is applied to an end running parallel to the post in a specific direction.100px
Klemheist hitchA friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Similar to the Prusik. Klemheist knot is a full equivalent to uni-directional Machard.100px
Knut hitchA friction hitch used for climbing a rope, not to be confused with the Knute hitch.national.sherrilltree.com/site/Climbing_Hitches.pdf100px
Machard TresseA mono-directional variant of the common Machard. Tresse, French for braided, indicates a final crossing turn, which increases the hitch's hold and ease of release.
Michoacan/MartinA friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded.{{cite web|title=History of a Knot|url=https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=5574.0|website=International Guild of Knot Tyers Forum|publisher=International Guild of Knot Tyers|access-date=25 December 2016}}{{cite web|title=Climbing Friction Knots|url=http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/climbing-friction-knots.41044/|website=ArboristSite.com|publisher=Johnson Management, Inc.|access-date=25 December 2016}} Similar to the Prusik. Michoacan/Martin is a full equivalent to Gripping sailor's hitch100px
Pile hitchThe pile hitch is easier to tie than the icicle hitch, and can be tied in the bight without access to either end of the rope.100px
Prusik or PrussikA friction hitch or knot used to put a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, and by arborists.100px
Rolling hitch (Taut-line hitch)100px
Schwabisch hitchA friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Similar to the Prusik100px
Todd-Kramer hitchA friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Similar to the Prusik100px
Valdotain TresseFriction knot used to be fixed on a tautline (a taut-rope), also known as a "Valdostano". It is the single cord equivalent of the Machard Tresse (which uses a loop of cord)100px
Cooper's hitchFriction knot used primarily instead of the Valdotain Tresse to which it is similar in design and function.

See also

References

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  • [http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/0505_geneology.pdf Son of a Hitch: A Genealogy of Arborists’ Climbing Hitches]