Loch Maree

{{short description|Loch in Wester Ross, in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland}}

{{Infobox body of water

| name = Loch Maree

| image = File:Loch Maree and Slioch - geograph.org.uk - 897208.jpg

| caption = Panorama of Loch Maree, with Slioch in the background.

| image_bathymetry =

|pushpin_map=Scotland Highland

| caption_bathymetry =

| location = Northwest Highlands, Scotland

| coords = {{coord|57|41|23|N|5|27|27|W|region:GB_type:waterbody|display=inline,title}}

| type =

| inflow =

| outflow =

| catchment = Beinn Eighe, Slioch, Fisherfield, Glen Docherty, Coulin, Slattadale, Talladale

| basin_countries = Scotland

| length = {{convert|13.46|mi|km|abbr=on|order=flip}}Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume I, Table 1.

| width = {{convert|4|km|abbr=on}}

| area = {{convert|11.08|mi2|km2|abbr=on|order=flip}}Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume I, Table 2.

| depth = {{convert|125|ft|abbr=on|order=flip}}Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume I, Table 4.

| max-depth = {{convert|367|ft|abbr=on|order=flip}}Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume I, Table 3.

| volume = {{convert|38.5|e9cuft|km3|abbr=on|order=flip}}Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume I, Table 5.

| islands = 60

| embedded = {{Designation list

| embed = yes

| designation1 = Ramsar

| designation1_date = 19 September 1994

| designation1_number = 700{{Cite web|title=Loch Maree|website=Ramsar Sites Information Service|url=https://rsis.ramsar.org/ris/700|access-date=25 April 2018}}}}

| islands_category= Islands of Loch Maree}}

Loch Maree ({{langx|gd|Loch Ma-ruibhe}}){{cite web|url=https://www.ainmean-aite.scot/gaelic-place-names-database/?term=Loch%20Maree&query_type=match-phrase&search_type=custom&target_field=english_form&filter_by=none&filter_term|title=Database - Loch Maree|publisher=Ainmean-Àite na h-Alba|access-date=2019-02-07}} is a loch in Wester Ross in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland. At {{convert|13.46|mi|km|abbr=on|order=flip|1}} long and with a maximum width of {{convert|4|km|mi|spell=in|frac=2}}, it is the fourth-largest freshwater loch in Scotland; it is the largest north of Loch Ness. Its surface area is {{convert|11.08|mi2|km2|abbr=on|order=flip}}.

Loch Maree contains five large wooded islands and over 60 smaller ones,{{cite web|url=http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk/loch-maree-islands|title=Loch Maree Islands - Scotland's National Nature Reserves|website=Nnr-scotland.org.uk|date=14 April 2014|access-date=7 November 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160127025005/http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk/loch-maree-islands/|archive-date=27 January 2016|url-status=dead}}{{cite web|url=http://www.scotlandinfo.eu/loch-maree-wester-ross|title=Loch Maree Wester Ross – Scotland Info Guide|website=Scotlandinfo.eu|date=20 June 2014|access-date=7 November 2016}} many of which have their own lochans. The largest island, Eilean Sùbhainn, contains a loch that itself contains an island,Ordnance Survey. 1:25000 Explorer map. Sheet 433, Torridon - Beinn Eighe & Liathach. a situation that occurs nowhere else in Great Britain.{{Cite web|date=2013-04-03|title=Country diary: Loch Maree, Highlands: Wild winds in an ancient woodland|url=http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2013/apr/03/loch-maree-highlands-winds-ancient|access-date=2022-02-21|website=the Guardian|language=en}} Isle Maree holds the remains of a Pre-Reformation chapel and Christian pilgrimage shrine believed to be the 8th century hermitage of Saint Máel Ruba (d. 722), a Celtic Church missionary from Bangor Abbey in Gaelic Ireland who also founded the monastery of Applecross in 672.{{canmore|num=12049|desc=Isle Mare}} It is after him that Loch Maree is named; prior to the saint's arrival in the area the loch is believed to have been named Loch Ewe, as evidenced by the name of the village of Kinlochewe ({{langx|gd|Ceann Loch Iù}}, meaning "Head of Loch Ewe") which is located at the eastern end of Loch Ewe.

The loch is important for wildlife. It is the site of one of the largest breeding concentrations of black-throated diver in Great Britain, and also holds an important population of otter. The islands of Loch Maree are the location of some of the best native Caledonian pinewood in Scotland, and are particularly noted for their dragonflies, with 12 species having been recorded. The waters, islands and shoreline of Loch Maree are protected by several overlapping conservation designations.

Geography

File:Slioch from Loch Maree.jpg

File:Loch Maree - Sir David Young Cameron - ABDAG002667.jpg, {{circa|1900–1924}}]]

Loch Maree is much longer than it is wide, stretching along a northwest-southeast axis. The outflow is via the short River Ewe, through which water enters the sea loch of Loch Ewe, close to the village of Poolewe; the village of Kinlochewe lies at the head of the loch at the southeastern end. The A832 road between the two runs along much of the southwestern shore of the loch, but diverges from it in the north to run via Gairloch, along the coast from Poolewe.

Loch Maree is divided into three main basins, and has many islands: the ratio of the area of the islands to the area of the surface water is greater than any other large loch in Scotland.Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909. Volume II, Page 211. The deepest of the basins, at {{convert|367|ft|m|order=flip|abbr=on}}, is known as the Grudie Basin, and lies between Isle Maree and the head of the loch. To the northwest of this basin lies the Slattadale Basin, which contains the majority of the islands. North of the islands lies a shallower area, separating the Slattadale Basin from the Ardlair Basin, the most irregularly shaped of the three.

The most prominent mountain on the northern side of Loch Maree is Slioch, one of Scotland's Munros (a mountain over {{convert|3000|ft|m|abbr=on}} high), which dominates the eastern end of the loch above Kinlochewe. It is composed mainly of Torridonian sandstone of Precambrian age, lying on a bedrock of Lewisian gneiss. It is popular for hill walking, scrambling and climbing.{{cite book|editor=Donald Bennet & Rab Anderson|title=The Munros: Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers' Guide|publisher=Scottish Mountaineering Trust|date=2016|page=221|isbn=9780907521945}} Other peaks on the northern side include Beinn Àirigh Charr and Beinn Làir, both of which are classified as Corbetts.{{cite book|editor=Rob Milne & Hamish Brown|title=The Corbetts and Other Scottish Hills|publisher=Scottish Mountaineering Trust|date=2016|pages=211–212|isbn=9780907521716}} The entire length of the northeastern shore of Loch Maree forms part of the {{convert|86664|acre|ha|order=flip|abbr=on}} Letterewe, Heights of Kinlochewe & Tournaig Estate, which extends north over an area known as the Fisherfield Forest.{{cite web |url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=2263|title=Property Page: Letterewe, Heights of Kinlochewe & Tournaig|publisher=Who Owns Scotland |access-date= 2018-11-05}} The southwestern side of Loch Maree is also mountainous, comprising the Torridon Forest. The most prominent peak is Beinn Eighe, which is capped with white quartzite.{{cite book|editor=Donald Bennet & Rab Anderson|title=The Munros: Scottish Mountaineering Club Hillwalkers' Guide|publisher=Scottish Mountaineering Trust|date=2016|page=217|isbn=9780907521945}} Three main landowners occupy the southwestern shore: from south to north these are NatureScot (the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve), the {{convert|12737|acre|ha|order=flip|abbr=on}} Grudie & Talladale Estate,{{cite web |url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=2232|title=Property Page: Grudie & Talladale |publisher=Who Owns Scotland |access-date= 2018-11-05}} and the {{convert|53625|acre|ha|order=flip|abbr=on}} Gairloch (Flowerdale & Shieldaig) & Conon Estate.{{cite web |url=http://www.whoownsscotland.org.uk/property.php?p=2220|title=Property Page: Gairloch (Flowerdale & Shieldaig) & Conon|publisher=Who Owns Scotland |access-date= 2018-11-05}}

History

File:Victoria Falls 01.jpg.]]

Between 671 and 722, Celtic Church missionary St Máel Ruba arrived at Loch Maree, and founded a chapel and Christian pilgrimage shrine on Eilean Maolruibhe. Remains of this chapel were reportedly still visible in 1861 but no traces now remain, although the burial ground associated with the chapel is still extant. A small covered holy well on the island is said to have been consecrated by the saint.

During the middle ages the island of Eilean Ghrùididh on Loch Maree was a centre for the MacBeaths; in or shortly after 1430 the MacBeaths were displaced by Clan MacLeod. Investigation of the island in 1965 found a fortified area measuring 44 by 36 metres with walls 1 m thick and 2 m high, with a 1.8 m deep dungeon in the southeast corner. No buildings were found within the fortifications.{{canmore|num=12046|desc=Eilean Ghruididh}}

Due to its remote location there is now little industry surrounding Loch Maree, however the area was formerly a centre for ironworking. During the seventeenth century up to 8 hectares of oak woodlands a day were turned into charcoal to fuel the smelting of bog iron at Letterewe on the northeast shore.{{cite book|title=The Scottish Lochs|author=Tom Weir|publisher=Constable|date=1980|isbn=978-0094632707|pages=155–163|author-link=Tom Weir}} Workmen from these iron furnaces are said to have been buried on Isle Maree. Remains of one iron furnace can be seen at a site known as the Red Smiddy on the northeast bank of the River Ewe between the outflow from the loch and Poolewe. Pieces of ore, slag and iron have been found at this site.{{canmore|num=11940|desc=Red Smiddy Iron Works}}

The loch became a popular spot for trout fishing after Queen Victoria visited the Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale in 1877,{{cite news|author=Unattributed|title=A Highland Loch|work=The Times|issue=29663|page=6|date=3 September 1879}} a visit which led to the naming of Victoria Falls, an attractive waterfall in the vicinity of the hotel.Black's Guide to Scotland. Published by Adam & Charles Black, London. 1903. p. 466. In 1893, there was a proposal to build a branch railway from Achnasheen to Aultbea along the south shore of Loch Maree. The railway would have increased Victorian tourist traffic, as well as providing a service for fisheries and the mail and a connection to Stornoway, however the plan was later abandoned.{{cite book|title=The West Highland Railway: Plans, Politics and People|author=John A. McGregor|publisher= John Donald Publishers|date=2005|isbn=978-0859766241}}

Ecology

Loch Maree is of international importance for its special wildlife and biodiversity, and is the site of one of the largest breeding concentrations of black-throated diver in Great Britain.{{cite web|url=https://apps.snh.gov.uk/sitelink-api/v1/sites/1007/documents/1|title=Loch Maree SSSI Citation|access-date=2018-11-02|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage}}

Sea trout and salmon are an important part of the loch's ecosystem, providing food for black-throated diver and otter (Lutra lutra): juvenile trout can be an important part of the diet of black-throated diver.{{cite journal|title=Browse journals by subject |journal=Bird Study|volume=52 |issue=3 |pages=225–236 |doi=10.1080/00063650509461396 |year=2005 |last1=Jackson |first1=Digger B. |s2cid=84699503 }} Until recently, thousands of adult sea trout (seagoing brown trout Salmo trutta) and salmon (Salmo salar) returned to the loch from the sea every summer. Sea trout gathered in huge numbers in certain bays, providing some of the most exciting angling in Scotland for which the loch had an international reputation. A British record sea trout of {{convert|19.5|lb|kg|abbr=on}} was caught on a "dapping fly" in the loch in 1952.{{cite web|title=Loch Maree Hotel: The best in Western Scotland|url=http://www.malcolmmowats.com/blogs/news/12305729-loch-maree-hotel-the-best-in-western-scotland|website=Malcolm Mowat's|access-date=24 January 2016}} The sea trout fishery collapsed in the 1980s and 1990s.{{cite web|url=http://www.wrft.org.uk/fisheries/seatrout.cfm|title=Wester Ross Fisheries Trust: Sea Trout|access-date=24 January 2016}} The loch also has two separate populations of Arctic charr (Salvelinus alpinus) about which little is known. One form of charr, with a big eye which feeds on the bottom in deep water matures at less than 15 cm. The other form grows to over 32 cm and can sometimes be seen in shoals ruffling the surface when the loch is calm.{{Cite journal|last1=ADAMS|first1=COLIN E.|last2=WILSON|first2=ALASTAIR J.|last3=FERGUSON|first3=MOIRA M.|date=2008-12-01|title=Parallel divergence of sympatric genetic and body size forms of Arctic charr, Salvelinus alpinus, from two Scottish lakes|journal=Biological Journal of the Linnean Society|language=en|volume=95|issue=4|pages=748–757|doi=10.1111/j.1095-8312.2008.01066.x|issn=0024-4066|doi-access=free}}

The islands of Loch Maree are wooded, being the location of some of the best native Caledonian pinewood in Scotland. These woodlands, along with others in Wester Ross, are genetically distinct from other pinewoods in Scotland, showing more similarity to those in southern Europe. It is thought that this results from the fact that western Scotland became ice-free first at the end of the last ice-age, allowing pine to move north along the western fringe of Europe. Pines reached Eastern Scotland from more northerly areas during a later period, as the ice sheets retreated further.{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-02/The%20Story%20of%20Beinn%20Eighe%20National%20Nature%20Reserve.pdf|title=The Story of Beinn Eighe and Loch Mare Islands National Nature Reserve|access-date=2018-10-05|date=2008|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|page=5}} Scots pine are the dominant species in these woodlands, however other tree species such as rock whitebeam and juniper are also present. The islands of Loch Maree are particularly noted for their dragonflies, with 12 species having been recorded, including the northern emerald, azure hawker and white-faced darter. Pine martens and white-tailed sea eagles can be found on the islands,{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-02/The%20Story%20of%20Beinn%20Eighe%20National%20Nature%20Reserve.pdf|title=The Story of Beinn Eighe and Loch Mare Islands National Nature Reserve|access-date=2018-10-05|date=2008|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|page=2}} which are also a breeding site for redwings; greylag geese were known to breed here in the past, but have not done so since the 1970s.{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-02/The%20Story%20of%20Beinn%20Eighe%20National%20Nature%20Reserve.pdf|title=The Story of Beinn Eighe and Loch Mare Islands National Nature Reserve|access-date=2018-10-05|date=2008|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|page=14}}

Conservation designations

{{Infobox protected area

| name = Loch Maree Islands National Nature Reserve

| alt_name =

| iucn_category = IV

| iucn_ref =

| photo = Lagoon amongst islands, Loch Maree - geograph.org.uk - 349769.jpg

| photo_alt = Amongst the islands of Loch Maree.

| photo_caption = Amongst the islands of Loch Maree.

| photo_width =

| map = Scotland Ross and Cromarty

| relief = 1

| map_alt =

| map_caption =

| map_width =

| location = Wester Ross, Scotland

| nearest_city =

| coordinates = {{coords|57.694|-5.509|region:GB_scale:20000|display=inline}}

| area = 200 ha

| established = 1977

| governing_body = NatureScot

| url = [https://www.nature.scot/enjoying-outdoors/scotlands-national-nature-reserves/beinn-eighe-and-loch-maree-islands-national-nature-reserve Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree Islands National Nature Reserve]

| embedded =

}}

The presence of black-throated divers on the loch has led to it being designated as Special Protection Area (SPA) under the EU Habitats Directive.{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/8532|title=Site Details for Loch Maree SPA|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}} The loch is also designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC), forming part of the Loch Maree Complex SAC, which extends to cover the surrounding hills including Beinn Eighe.{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/8299|title=Site Details for Loch Maree SAC|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}}

Over 60 islands within the loch are designated as the Loch Maree Islands National Nature Reserve (NNR),{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/5046|title=Site Details for Loch Maree Islands NNR|publisher=NatureScot|access-date=8 September 2020}} which has since 2014 been jointly managed with the neighbouring Beinn Eighe NNR as a single reserve.{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-03/Management%20Plan%20for%20Beinn%20Eighe%20NNR%202015-2025_0.pdf|title=The Management Plan for Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree Islands NNR 2015-2025|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|date=2018|access-date=2018-11-01|page=3}} The Beinn Eighe and Loch Maree Islands NNR forms part of the designated Core Zone of the Wester Ross UNESCO Biosphere reserve.{{cite web|url=https://static1.squarespace.com/static/588f52dc3e00be6360b1c824/t/588f7a00e3df28739f088975/1485857853999/Wester+Ross+Biosphere+Application+09%3A15.pdf|title=Wester Ross Biosphere Reserve Application|publisher=Wester Ross Biosphere Ltd.|date=September 2015|access-date=2018-07-05}}

Loch Maree is classified as a Category IV protected area by the International Union for Conservation of Nature,{{cite web|url=https://www.protectedplanet.net/11053|title=Loch Maree Islands|publisher=Protected Planet|access-date=29 January 2021}} and has been designated as a Ramsar site since 19 September 1994.{{Cite web|url=https://rsis.ramsar.org/ris/700|title=Loch Maree|date=2006|website=Ramsar Sites Information Service|access-date=11 February 2017}} It is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), and lies within the Wester Ross national scenic area.{{cite web|url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/9158|title=Wester Ross NSA|access-date=8 September 2020| publisher=NatureScot}}

In media

Button-box accordionist, Fergie MacDonald topped the Scottish pop charts in 1966 with the tune "Loch Maree Islands"{{cite web|url=https://projects.handsupfortrad.scot/hall-of-fame/fergie-macdonald/|title=Fergie MacDonald - Scottish Traditional Music Hall of Fame|publisher=Scottish Traditional Music Hall of Fame}} which pays tribute to the views of the loch, and vocal versions have been recorded by many artists over the years, notably Calum Kennedy. More recently a version of the song was included on Peat and Diesel's 2019 album Uptown Fank.{{cite web|url=https://www.peatanddiesel.band/albums|title=Albums|website=Peat and Diesel|access-date=28 January 2020}}

In the 2009-10 series of the BBC's Natural World, episode 6, Highland Haven, stayed closer to home than usual, with a year-long look at the environment and wildlife of Loch Maree and its surroundings.Interview on Two Lochs Radio, 27 November 2009.{{cite web|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00p9210|title=Natural World (2009-10), Episode 6: A Highland Haven|publisher=BBC|access-date=2018-11-12}}

Loch Maree and its islands, including Isle Maree, Juniper and Rough Islands are the setting of Oscar de Muriel's 2018 historical-crime novel Loch of the Dead, the fourth book in his Frey & McGray series.{{cite web|title=Loch of the Dead - Book by Oscar de Muriel |url=https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Loch-of-the-Dead/Oscar-de-Muriel/9781643130101|publisher=Simon & Schuster|language=english|access-date=February 11, 2022}}

Loch Maree is mentioned in the Runrig song "The Summer Walkers" from the album The Stamping Ground.{{cite web|url=http://www.jimwillsher.co.uk/Site/Runrig/Lyrics/Lyrics_Detail.php?AlbumID%3D38#TheSummerWalkers|title=The Stamping Ground Lyrics|access-date=4 January 2012|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120204124013/http://www.jimwillsher.co.uk/Site/Runrig/Lyrics/Lyrics_Detail.php?AlbumID=38|archive-date=4 February 2012}}

:And it's up by the Shin

:''And up by the 'Naver

:And the long winding shores Of Loch Maree

:By Ben Hope and Ben Loyal

:Stack and by Arkle

:The road reaches far

:Now the summer is here

Folklore

Thomas Pennant, writing in 1772, recorded that the loch was considered a holy well whose waters were thought to have curative effects, with being submerged in the water thought to be a cure for lunacy.

Isle Maree holds an oak wish tree made famous by a visit in 1877 by Queen Victoria mentioned in her published diaries. The tree, and others surrounding it, are festooned with hammered-in coins. It is near the traditional Christian pilgrimage shrine and holy well of local Celtic Church missionary St. Máel Rubha, whose intercession was believed to cure mental illnesses. In annual feast day festivals similar to Irish pattern days and Breton Pardons, votive offerings were made, including the slaughter and roasting of bulls, which continued up to the 18th century, according to records.Sharp, Mick (1997). Holy Places of Celtic Britain. Blandford. {{ISBN|1-85079-315-8}}. P. 149. This has led to speculation that the island was a place of pre-Christian pagan worship which was taken over by the saint. The same island contains ancient stands of oak and holly which have been linked with ancient Scottish druids.{{cite book |last1=Talboys |first1=Graeme |title=The Druid Way Made Easy |date=2011 |publisher=O-Books |location=Ropely, England |isbn=9781846948879 |chapter=Survival and revivival}}

Like Loch Ness and Loch Morar, Loch Maree has its own monster in the form of the muc-sheilch.{{cite book |last1=Armstrong |first1=Edward Allworthy |author1-link=Edward Allworthy Armstrong |editor1-last=Miller |editor1-first=Dean |title=Legendary creatures and monsters |date=2014 |publisher=Cavendish Square Pub |location=New York |isbn=9781627125789 |page=77}}

References

Sources

{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2018-02/The%20Story%20of%20Beinn%20Eighe%20National%20Nature%20Reserve.pdf|title=The Story of Beinn Eighe and Loch Mare Islands National Nature Reserve|access-date=2018-10-05|date=2008|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage}}
{{cite EB1911|wstitle=Maree, Loch}}
{{Cite web|url=https://maps.nls.uk/bathymetric/contents.html|title=Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909|website=National Library of Scotland|access-date=2018-11-05|author1=John Murray |author2=Laurence Pullar |date=1909}}

Category:Lochs of Highland (council area)

Category:Celtic Christianity

Category:Christian pilgrimage sites

Category:Christianity in medieval Scotland

Category:History of Catholicism in Scotland

Category:Holy wells in Scotland

Category:Mass stones in Scotland

Category:Roman Catholic shrines in the United Kingdom

Category:Ross and Cromarty

Category:Ramsar sites in Scotland

Category:Sites of Special Scientific Interest in South Wester Ross and Cromarty

Loch Maree