Maggy Rouff
{{Short description|French fashion designer (1896 - 1971)}}
File:Portrait de Mme Besançon de Wagner.jpg
File:Maggy Rouff, autograph.jpg.]]
Maggy Rouff (September 1, 1896– August 7, 1971){{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jbmFBwAAQBAJ&q=maggy%2520rouff&pg=PA332|title=Who's Who in Fashion|last1=Alford|first1=Holly Price|last2=Stegemeyer|first2=Anne|date=2014-09-25|publisher=Bloomsbury Publishing USA|isbn=9781609019693|language=en}} was a French fashion designer of Belgian origin.{{cite book |last=Pouillard |first=Véronique |title=Producing fashion commerce, culture, and consumers |date=2008 |publisher=University of Pennsylvania Press |location=Philadelphia |isbn=9780812206050 |page=66 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vRKu_r1VnAUC&pg=PA66|editor=Regina Lee Blaszczyk|chapter=In the Shadow of Paris?}}
Family and early life
Maggy Rouff was born Marguerite de Wagner in 1896,{{Base Léonore|19800035/1090/25308|id=32619}} to a Belgian couple (though Madame de Wagner was German-born).{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=47JJAQAAIAAJ&q=Wagner|title=High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art|last=Reeder|first=Jan Glier|date=2010|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=9781588393630|location=New York|page=64}} In 1902, Rouff's parents opened a couture house in Paris under the name Drécoll. This was a branch of the well-known Viennese fashion house Drécoll. Founded in 1896 by Christoff von Drécoll, the fashion house was a favorite of the Austro-Hungarian imperial family.{{Cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157457|title=House of Drécoll {{!}} Dinner dress {{!}} Austrian {{!}} The Met|website=The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum|access-date=2016-09-15}} Monsieur and Madame de Wagner paid for the right to use the Drécoll name in Paris while designing their own fashions.{{Cite web|url=http://amhistory.si.edu/costume/object.cfm?recordnumber=365571|title=NMAH {{!}} Costume Collection|website=amhistory.si.edu|date=4 August 2015 |access-date=2016-09-15}}
Career
Marguerite (Maggy) de Wagner married Pierre Besançon in October 1917 in Paris and both subsequently adopted the name Besançon de Wagner.
In 1929, Marguerite Besançon de Wagner opened a new fashion house at 136 avenue des Champs Elysees under the name Maggy Rouff.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=4oO1sxv8jBwC&q=maggy%2520rouff&pg=PA118|title=Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design|last=Sumathi|first=G. J.|date=2007-01-01|publisher=New Age International|isbn=9788122413717|language=en}}
Rouff was known for her understated sportswear designs at the beginning of her career, and later for the feminine detailing in her garments such as ruffles, shirring, and the bias cut.{{cite book |last=Koda |first=Harold |title=Goddess : the classical mode|date=2003|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|location=New York, NY |isbn=9780300098822 |page=131 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=haAAxvwEmMMC&pg=PA131}}
In 1937, Rouff opened a London outpost at 12a Stanhope Gate, Park Lane. The business was housed in an old home which Rouff decorated herself.{{Cite news|url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19371120&id=WFZVAAAAIBAJ&pg=4685,3303070&hl=en|title=Champagne Party to Show New Season's Frocks|last=Wilson|first=Betty|date=November 20, 1937|work=The Sydney Morning Herald|access-date=September 15, 2016}}
In the 1930s, Rouff headed PAIS (Association pour la Protection des Arts Plastiques et Appliques, also known as the Association pour la Protection des Industries Artistiques Saisonnieres), one of the most important anti-piracy and counterfeiting trade networks in Paris couture, which was founded by Madeleine Vionnet in 1922.
Famous clients
Maggy Rouff is listed as costume designer or as part of the costume department for twelve films between 1938 and 1961.{{Cite web|url=https://www.imdb.com/name/nm1754982/|title=Maggy Rouff|website=IMDb|access-date=2016-09-15}} The latter films may have been designed by Anne-Marie Besançon de Wagner using the Maggy Rouff label.
In 1938, the "children of France" gifted Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret two dresses and a set of handkerchiefs.{{Cite web|url=https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/search#/page/1|title=Explore the Royal Collection online|website=www.royalcollection.org.uk|access-date=2016-09-15}} Other well-known clients included Grace Kelly{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=M1UEAAAAMBAJ&q=princess+grace+maggy+rouff&pg=PA175|title=LIFE|date=1959-10-26|publisher=Time Inc|language=en}} and Clarissa Churchill Eden.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=P7yZUMBcbxAC&q=clarissa%2520churchill%2520maggy%2520rouff&pg=PA85|title=Wait for Me!: Memoirs|last1=Devonshire|first1=Deborah Mitford, Duchess of Deborah Mitford, Duchess of|last2=Mosley|first2=Charlotte|date=2010-11-09|publisher=Macmillan|isbn=9781429917933|language=en}}
Writings
Later life
References
{{reflist}}
{{Authority control (arts)}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Rouff, Maggy}}
Category:French fashion designers
Category:French women fashion designers
Category:French people of Belgian descent
Category:French people of German descent
{{France-artist-stub}}