Marinière

File:Marin français vers 1910.jpg

Regulations of 27 March 1858 introduced the blue-and-white marinière to the French Navy's official uniform for seamen, describing it thus:

{{quote|

:{{lang|fr|Le corps de la chemise devra compter 21 rayures blanches, chacune deux fois plus large que les 20 à 21 rayures bleu indigo.}}

:The body shall have 21 white stripes, each twice as wide as the 20 or 21 navy blue stripes.

}}

A genuine marinière has, front and back, twenty navy blue stripes each {{convert|10|mm|in|1}} wide, spaced {{convert|20|mm|in|1}} apart, and on the sleeves fourteen navy blue stripes spaced the same.There can be twenty-one on the body and fifteen on the sleeves for very tall sailors. Legend has it that each of the twenty-one represents one of Napoleon's victories. The three-quarter-length sleeves must be no longer than those of the overjacket,{{cite journal|language=fr|first=Anne Cécile|last=de Monplanet|title=La marinière en 4 dates|journal=L'Express Styles|publisher=L'Express |issue=3167|date=14 March 2012|page=30|issn=0014-5270}} and the flared collar must reach the neck.

The "{{lang|fr|Tricot bleu de service courant Marine nationale}}" ("French Navy Standard Duty Blue Jersey") is part of Uniforms 22bis and 23.{{citation needed|date=January 2015}}

Sailors used to say that the stripes made it easier to see men who had fallen into the sea. {{citation needed|date=July 2021}}

Marinières were made by independent tailors, but eventually were made in navy workshops; army tailoring was a separate duty, often performed by conscripts. Marinières became a large product in France, manufactured by companies such as Saint James, Armor Lux{{cite web|url=http://www.puretrend.com/rubrique/histoire-de-la-mode_r16/tres-chere-mariniere_a32132/1|title=Très chère marinière|website=puretrend.com|date=July 2009 |trans-title=Very dear marinière}} and Orcival.

File:Gabrielle Chanel en marinière.jpg, in the interwar period]]

Although it originated in the Navy, the marinière has been an important fashion item ever since. During the First World War, Coco Chanel regularly took seaside holidays and was inspired by the local sailors' uniforms. At her second shop in Deauville she launched the "Navy Style", a short marinière. In doing so she continued the emancipation of women's bodies and the "practical" side of her creations, by using simple jersey fabric during times of privation. Her marinières became widespread luxury items. Years later, Karl Lagerfield paid homage to House of Chanel by regularly recreating the marinière for his fashion shows,{{cite web|first=Aurore|last=Charlot|url=http://www.elle.fr/Mode/Dossiers-mode/Les-basiques-de-la-maison-Chanel-871206#La-mariniere-871223|title=Les basiques de la maison Chanel|language=fr|trans-title=House of Chanel basics|date=9 June 2009|work=Elle magazine|accessdate=15 December 2012}} especially in his ready-to-wear summer collection "Croisière".{{cite web|first=Julien|last=Neuville|url=http://www.ykone.com/les-quinze-collections-croisieres-qui-nous-ont-fait-chavirer|title=Les quinze collections croisières qui nous ont fait chavirer!|language=fr|trans-title=Fifteen Croisière collections that had us all at sea!|date=27 June 2012|website=ykone.com|accessdate=4 November 2012|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120902030756/http://www.ykone.com/les-quinze-collections-croisieres-qui-nous-ont-fait-chavirer|archivedate=2 September 2012}}

In the 1940s the marinière was worn by John Wayne, then Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Brigitte Bardot, Marcel Marceau. Much later, Sting modelled for photographs wearing one.

File:Marcel Marceau (1963) by Erling Mandelmann.jpg, 1963, by Erling Mandelmann]]

In the 1960s, after Jean Seberg's appearance in a marinière in the film Breathless, Yves Saint Laurent introduced it into his premier collections,{{cite news|first=Anne-Laure|last=Quilleriet |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/informations/saint-laurent-forever_723513.html |title=Saint Laurent forever...|date=5 June 2008 |work= L'Express|accessdate=3 January 2015|language=fr}} causing a fashion revolution in haute couture.

Jean Paul Gaultier has been in love with the marinière since the 1980s, in all its forms, styles and the most diverse materials. In 1983, it was the major element of his Boy Toy collection, Gaultier greeting the audience at the end of the show in a "classic classic", a marinière.Two years later, in 1985, Charlotte Gainsbourg wore one in L'Effrontée.

In 2006, the marinière was rediscovered as an item of eveningwear.{{cite book|language=fr |first1=Noël |last1=Palomo-Lovinski| others=Pomier, Lise-Éliane (translator)|title= Les plus grands créateurs de mode: de Coco Chanel à Jean Paul Gaultier |work=Eyrolles |place=Paris |year=2011 |chapter=Jean Paul Gaultier|page=75 |isbn=978-2-212-55178-5|quote=La marinière à rayures bleu marine et blanches est la signature de Gaultier... pour fêter trente ans de collections, clin d’œil de Gaultier à lui-même en créant cette robe du soir. [The blue-and-white marinière is Gaultier's signature... after thirty years of collections, in a blink of an eye it has become eveningwear.]}}

Yvette Horner dressed in a marinière to model it for Pierre and Gilles, who used it as the design of flacons for Gaultier's fragrance line "Le Mâle".{{cite web|url=http://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/shop/fr/le-male/le-male-l-eau-de-toilette.html|title=Le flacon "Le Mâle"|website=jeanpaulgaultier.com|accessdate=|language=fr}}{{cite web|url=http://www.strategies.fr/articles/r12729W/merci-jean-paul.html|title=Merci Jean-Paul|language=fr|accessdate=3 January 2015|date=26 May 2000|work=strategies.fr|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20141209075349/http://www.strategies.fr/articles/r12729W/merci-jean-paul.html|archivedate=9 December 2014}} For him and his "children"{{cite web |first=Katell |last=Pouliquen |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode-beaute/mode/jean-paul-gaultier-lance-sa-ligne-enfant_784364.html |title=Jean Paul Gaultier lance sa ligne enfant |language=fr |trans-title=Jean-Paul Gaultier launches his children's line|series=Styles|date=4 September 2009 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} and his partners{{cite web |first=Caroline |last=Ronin |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode-beaute/mode/jean-paul-gaultier-collabore-avec-pataugas_837116.html |title=Jean-Paul Gaultier collabore avec Pataugas |language=fr |trans-title=Jean-Paul Gaultier partners with Pataugas |series=Styles|date=18 December 2009 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} the marinière has become an integral part of the world of fashion.

In the 2000s, Kenzo Takada started selling marinières, with polka dots,{{cite web |first=Héloïse |last=Gray |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode-beaute/mode/esprit-marin_482879.html |title=Esprit marin |language=fr | trans-title=Sea spirit|date=2 March 2006 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} Sonia Rykiel having previously used differently coloured stripes, most often black, before returning to white on blue.{{cite web |first=Géraldine |last=Dormoy |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode-beaute/mode/la-collection-sonia-rykiel-pour-h-m-en-images_848041.html |title=La collection Sonia Rykiel pour H&M en images |language=fr| trans-title=Sonia Rykiel's collection for H&M in pictures|series=Styles|date=10 February 2010 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}}

In 2010, the marinière set the trend: the Elite modelling agency in its annual competition, it dressed the finalists in them; Prada added them in its September collection, Gilas Loaëc's Breton brand Kitsuné, took it up,{{cite web |first=Katell|last=Pouliquen |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode-beaute/mode/quand-les-voyages-inspirent-les-createurs_901036.html |title=Quand les voyages inspirent les créateurs |language=fr |trans-title=When travel inspires designers|series=Styles|date=24 June 2010 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} as did Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors and others.

The following year, the France national football team commissioned its supplier Nike for new away kit as a white jersey with blue stripes,{{cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHS-3DLTDOw|title=Maillot Marinière Équipe de France extérieur 2011 Nike|website=YouTube |language=fr|trans-title=Marinière of France's 2011 Nike away strip|accessdate=3 January 2015|date=}} taking inspiration from the marinière.{{cite web |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/actualite/sport/le-nouveau-maillot-des-bleus-il-est_969592.html |title= Le nouveau maillot des Bleus, il est...|language=fr|trans-title=The new Blues kit, it's...|date=7 March 2011 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} It was seldom used. Much commented upon – and criticised – this striped kit was dropped eleven months afterwards in favour of a much plainer all-white strip.{{cite news|title=Les Bleus abandonnent la marinière|work=Le Figaro|url=http://www.lefigaro.fr/sport-business/2012/02/24/20006-20120224ARTFIG00407-les-bleus-abandonnent-leur-mariniere.php|date=24 February 2012|accessdate=3 January 2015|language=fr|trans-title=Blues Drop Marinière}}

In April 2011, the boutique Colette had the marinière as its theme, represented by many ready-to-wear brands: Chanel, Comme des Garçons, Hermès, Ladurée, Longchamp and its Montblanc range of baggage, YSL, Swatch, and others. Jean Paul Gaultier had an offering as always, but so did Salvatore Ferragamo, Oscar de la Renta, and The Row. Alexis Mabille{{cite web |first=Katrin|last=Acou-Bouaziz |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/defiles-de-mode/defile-alexis-mabille-et-me-deshabille_1006043.html |title=Défilé: Alexis Mabille et me déshabille |trans-title=Exposed: Alex Mabille and my undressing|date=24 June 2011 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}} incorporated it into collections. A year later, Thom Browne used the blue-and-white motif on trousers, for Moncler,{{cite web|url=http://www.lefigaro.fr/lefigaromagazine/2012/07/05/01006-20120705ARTFIG00776-les-rayures-prennent-le-large.php|language=fr|title=Les rayures prennent le large |trans-title=Stripes are feeling the width|date=5 July 2012 |work=Le Figaro Magazine|accessdate=4 November 2012}} followed by A.P.C. and Marc by Marc Jacobs.{{cite web|url=http://www.lemonde.fr/web/recherche_breve/1,13-0,37-1204503,0.html |title=Le B.A.-BA... de la marinière|language=fr|trans-title=DYB DYB DYB... in a marinière|date=24 March 2012|work=Le Monde|accessdate=4 November 2012}}

In addition to traditional French companies Armor Lux, Saint James only since 1982 (which at that time completed its historic wool manufacture with cotton){{cite web|language=fr-FR|title=Saint-James, la mode marine " made in Normandy " |date=22 November 2009 |publisher=La Fabrique hexagonale|url=https://www.lafabriquehexagonale.com/2009/11/saint-james-la-mode-marine-made-in-normandy/|accessdate=2020-03-12}}{{cite web|language=FR|title=Les tricots Saint James|url=http://fr.viadeo.com/fr/groups/detaildiscussion/?containerId=0021f0tsmt4rgmfr&forumId=002163tlv6ysz98x&action=messageDetail&messageId=00226kyg34kz2ai7|website=viadeo|date=22 December 2012|access-date=30 November 2019}} and the venerable Orcival,{{cite news |first=Marc |last=Beaugé|url=http://www.lemonde.fr/style/article/2012/11/02/est-ce-bien-raisonnable-de-porter-une-mariniere_1784091_1575563.html|title=Est-ce bien raisonnable de porter une marinière?|language=fr|trans-title=Is it very wise to wear a marinière?|quote= Encore largement produite en France, chez Saint James, Orcival ou Armor-Lux [Once again one of France's growing products]|series=Style|date=2 November 2012 |work=Le Monde Magazine |accessdate=31 May 2013}} who has been manufacturing marinières in France since it supplied the French Navy, the brand Petit Bateau{{cite web|url=http://www.tendances-de-mode.com/2008/04/14/792-la-mariniere-petit-bateau|title=La marinière Petit Bateau|language=fr|trans-title=The Petit Bateau marinière|date=14 April 2008 |website=tendances-de-mode.com|accessdate=4 November 2012}} have taken up the marinière after a long absence, using it in a range of styles.{{cite web |first=Clémence |last=Pouget|url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/mode/la-collection-herman-duene-pour-petit-bateau_1087084.html |title=La collection Herman Düne pour Petit Bateau |language=fr|series=Styles|date=29 February 2012 |work= L'Express|accessdate=17 October 2012}}{{cite web |first=Claire-Marie|last=Allègre |url=http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/minute-mode/une-nouvelle-collection-petit-bateau-avec-tsumori-chisato_1105651.html |title=Une nouvelle collection Petit Bateau avec Tsumori Chisato |trans-title=New Petit Bateau collection with Tsumori Chisato|language=fr|series=Styles|date=18 April 2012|work= L'Express |accessdate=17 October 2012}}

In 2017, the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) has chosen the Orcival Breton top to epitomize the genuine Breton top for its exhibition "Is Fashion Modern?"{{cite web|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/05/arts/design/moma-items-is-fashion-modern-review.html|title=MoMA Plunges Headfirst Into Fashion|language=en |date=5 October 2017 |website=The New York Times|accessdate=6 November 2017}}

On 19 October 2012, Arnaud Montebourg, the French Industry Minister, wore an Armor Lux marinière in a cover photo for Le Parisien's magazine.{{cite web|url=http://www.purepeople.com/article/arnaud-montebourg-en-mariniere-made-in-france-sauf-sa-montre_a109048|accessdate=3 January 2015|title=Arnaud Montebourg en marinière: Made in France... sauf sa montre!|language=fr|trans-title=Arnaud Montebourg wearing a marinière... but without his watch!|date=24 October 2012|website=purepeople.com|publisher=Le Parisien}} Montebourg had agreed to the magazine's request to wear the marinière, with a French-made watch, in front of French-made household appliances. The cover article was a ten-page dossier on "Made in France", Montebourg's domestic production drive.

{{Portal|Fashion}}

• Sailor suit
• Telnyashka – An undershirt used with military uniforms in Russia inspired by the marinière

{{reflist|group=Note}}

{{reflist|2}}

{{Wiktionary|marinière}}

• {{Commonscategory-inline|Marinière shirts}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Mariniere}}

Category:French fashion

Category:French military uniforms

Category:French Navy

Category:Tops (clothing)