Mark Twight

In 1988, Twight made the first ascent of "The Reality Bath" on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which was unrepeated until january 2025.{{Cite news |title=The reality Bath in the Rockies repeated solo |url=https://gripped.com/profiles/the-reality-bath-in-the-rockies-repeated-solo/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR2fojuquFaToPqgY6wzgUptI5xPzCJlorVVpfkU5sK0EKPaV25snBe1X1g_aem}} The route has been described by Canadian Rockies guidebook author, Albi Sole as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined."Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Albi Sole 1988 2nd edition In his own guidebook to the Rockies, Joe Josephson declared that "The Reality Bath is undoubtedly the most dangerous ice route in the range."Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Joe Josephson, 1994 Rocky Mountain Books That same season Twight established a speed record on the 925 meter-high "Slipstream" (2hrs 4min) on the east face of Snowdome.Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better, Vol 2, pp108, Hans Florine, Bill Wright 2004, Falcon Press Publishing {{ISBN|978-0-7627-3095-7}}

Twight's first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif near Chamonix, France, include "Richard Cranium Memorial" on the northwest face of Les Droites with Barry Blanchard (1990), "Beyond Good And Evil" on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins with Andy Parkin (1992), and "There Goes The Neighborhood" on the northwest face of the Aiguille Sans Nom with Scott Backes (1993).American Alpine Journal, 2001 pp145 {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}

In the Himalayas, Twight attempted more routes than he succeeded on, being turned away by the South Pillar of Nuptse with Jeff Lowe (twice), and shut down {{convert|1200|ft}} below the summit of Nanga Parbat when a storm forced retreat down the Rupal Face (accompanied by Barry Blanchard, Kevin Doyle and Ward Robinson).Extreme Alpinism: Climbing, Light, Fast And High, pp 103, Mark Twight, James Martin 1999 The Mountaineers Books, {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/twight/|title=Mark Twight|website=www.mountainzone.com}} Other notable Himalayan climbs include the first ascent of the northwest face of Kangtega with Alison Hargreaves, Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe.Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, pp246, Jeff Lowe, 1996 The Mountaineers Books {{ISBN|978-0-89886-446-5}}

Twight made several notable ascents in the Alaska Range. In 1994, he and Scott Backes climbed "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter in 72 hours roundtrip, which halved the previous fastest ascent of the North Buttress.American Alpine Journal |year=1995, pp11, "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter by Mark Twight, 1995 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-61-0}} The 39 hours non-stop ascent is considered a landmark moment in the single-push climbing movement.American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp131 Baby Steps: Lessons From Alaskan Alpinism by Steve House 2001, American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}} Twight's participation in this style of climbing culminated with the 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali in June 2000 with Backes and Steve House.American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp48 Mt McKinley's Slovak Route by Scott Backes 2001 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}[https://web.archive.org/web/20040426015136/http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/Jukebox/DENALI/html/matw.htm Denali National Park Jukebox interview]{{Cite web|url=http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000237/http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html|url-status=dead|title=Steve House profile|archivedate=September 19, 2010}} During his visits to the Alaska Range, Twight participated in a variety of high-profile rescues.{{Cite web|url=https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/denali/disp-20000613.html|title=NOVA | Deadly Ascent | Dispatches | A Climber Saved (June 13, 2000) | PBS|website=www.pbs.org}}{{Cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1995_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080210130024/http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1995_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf|url-status=dead|archive-date=February 10, 2008|title=NPS Mountaineering Summary, 1995}} Twight was nominated for the Piolet d'Or twice during his career, in 1993 for "Beyond Good and Evil" and 1995 for "Deprivation".

On February 25, 2017, Twight received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award from the American Alpine Club.{{Cite web|url=https://alpinist.com/newswire/american-alpine-club-to-present-five-awards-at-its-annual-benefit-dinner-feb-25/|title=American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25|first=Alpinist|last=Magazine|date=December 12, 2016}} The award is given annually, "to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in the various fields of mountaineering endeavor."{{Cite web|url=https://americanalpineclub.org/awards/|title = Awards}}

Mark Twight was the founder of Gym Jones,{{Cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/hell-earth-fitness-plan/|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000227/http://outsideonline.com/outside/bodywork/200811/hell-on-earth-fitness-plan-1.html|url-status=dead|title=The Hell-On-Earth Fitness Plan|first=Nick|last=Heil|date=December 10, 2008|archivedate=September 19, 2010|website=Outside Online}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB124208076438008273|title=Training That's Beyond Boot Camp - WSJ|first=Michael J.|last=Ybarra}} where he trained athletes (including MMA fighters, NFL players and professional cyclists), military personnel, actors and others.

He also consults as the technical director of Mountain Mobility Group, LLC, which provides "cold weather, high altitude, and fitness training, as well as R&D for the Department of Defense."{{cite web|url=http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id%3D1 |title=Mark Twight - Discourse - Biography |access-date=January 30, 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201155530/http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id=1 |archive-date=February 1, 2014 }} He was hired as the subject matter expert during the development of the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) currently issued to special operations personnel.{{Cite web|url=https://soldiersystems.net/2008/07/24/pcu-alternate-source-of-supply/|title=PCU Alternate Source of Supply - Soldier Systems Daily|date=July 24, 2008}}{{Cite web |url=http://www.backpacker.com/august_2003_feature_special_forces_gear_test/articles/6543?page=4 |title=Backpacker Magazine article |access-date=October 8, 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100221155123/http://www.backpacker.com/august_2003_feature_special_forces_gear_test/articles/6543?page=4 |archive-date=February 21, 2010 |url-status=dead }}{{Cite web|url=http://www.allbusiness.com/retail-trade/miscellaneous-retail-miscellaneous/4479324-1.html|title=Sporting Goods Business Business, February 1, 2005}}

In 2005, Twight trained the cast and stunt crew for the movie 300,{{Cite web|url=http://www.300ondvd.com/300.html|title=300 main website}}{{Cite web |url=http://raincloud.warnerbros.com/wbmovies/300/journals/journal3_hi.mov |title=300 Video Journal No. 3 |access-date=October 8, 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110724220122/http://raincloud.warnerbros.com/wbmovies/300/journals/journal3_hi.mov |archive-date=July 24, 2011 |url-status=dead }} adhering to a philosophy that "appearance is a consequence of fitness".{{Cite web|url=https://www.mensjournal.com/health-fitness/top-10-hollywood-bulk-ups-all-time|title=The 25 Most Intense Hollywood Bulk-ups of All Time|first=Matthew|last=Jussim|date=September 9, 2021|website=Men's Journal}} One training regimen that his crew underwent in the movie came to be known as the 300 Workout, spawning many variations by other fitness personalities and trainers.

Through Gym Jones, Twight continues to prepare actors for movie roles. His credits include, "Man of Steel", "300: Rise of an Empire", "Batman vs. Superman", "Wonder Woman" and "Justice League".{{Cite web|url=https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/03/mark-twight-hollywood-trainer|title = Meet the Trainer Building Hollywood's Most Fit Superheroes|website = Vanity Fair|date = March 18, 2016}}

The name "Gym Jones" was chosen by Twight's former wife, Lisa.{{cite web |url=http://www.mensfitness.co.uk/lifestyle/1906/gym-jones-training-best |title=Gym Jones: Hollywood's trainer {{!}} Men's Fitness UK |website=www.mensfitness.co.uk |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131011075917/http://www.mensfitness.co.uk/lifestyle/1906/gym-jones-training-best |archive-date=2013-10-11}} It is a reference to People's Temple leader Jim Jones. On the Gym Jones website, Mark Twight claims his favorite drink is Flavor Aid,{{Cite web|url=http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070809184411/http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1|url-status=dead|title=Twight's Disciple page at Gym Jones|archivedate=August 9, 2007}} the same product that Jones' followers mixed with cyanide in one of the largest murder-suicides in recent history in 1978. Additionally, one of the few Gym Jones shirts available for public purchase comes with the line "there's a fine line between salvation and drinking poison in the jungle" printed on the back. Twight says that "wearing it in public will require some commitment. Some readers will be offended, while others will merely scratch their ignorant heads."{{Cite web|url=http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100316195941/http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php|url-status=dead|title=Gym Jones T-Shirts Page|archivedate=March 16, 2010}}

Mark Twight and Michael Blevins started Nonprophet in 2018.{{Cite web|url=https://www.nonprophet.media/|title=nonprophet|website=nonprophet}} They released their first episode of The Dissect Podcast on May 11, 2018.[https://www.nonprophet.media/dissect-podcast/2018/5/11/the-dissect-podcast-ep-1 Unknown]{{Dead link|date=February 2022 | fix-attempted=yes}}

After leaving climbing, Twight took up photography and competitive pistol shooting.Mark F. Twight, "Eat or Be Eaten" S.W.A.T., March 2000 (p. 60). PDF version at http://www.rangemaster.com[http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_151_25/ai_70380678/ "Dane Burns: Practical Guns For Serious Users"] American Handgunner, March 2001 by Mark Twight{{Cite web|url=http://marsguns.com/custom1911/THUG1911/THUG1911-SureFireCombatTactics2007.pdf|title=Surefire Tactics review of MARS THUG}} In the mid-2000s Twight competed in ski mountaineering races in Europe and the US.{{Cite web |url=http://www.gymjones.com/gym/disciple/1/ |title=Gym Jones / Disciples / Mark Twight |access-date=January 30, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131105105558/http://www.gymjones.com/gym/disciple/1/ |archive-date=November 5, 2013 |url-status=dead }} Twight has become a dedicated and serious road cyclist following shoulder surgery in 2006.{{Cite web |url=http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/analysis/at-mark-twights-gym-jones-clients-pick-their-poison_270872 |title=At Mark Twight’s Gym Jones, clients pick their poison |access-date=January 30, 2014 |archive-date=February 2, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140202111835/http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/analysis/at-mark-twights-gym-jones-clients-pick-their-poison_270872 |url-status=dead }} He has competed in a wide range of races, from omniums and hill climbs to the grueling LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson) Classic{{Cite web|url=https://www.usacycling.org/results/?compid=250690|title = The Official Website - USA Cycling}} and has also written essays about cycling on his own and other websites.{{Cite web |url=https://www.marktwight.com/blogs/discourse |title=Discourse - Mark F. Twight |access-date=March 20, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321091030/https://www.marktwight.com/blogs/discourse |archive-date=March 21, 2017 |url-status=dead }}{{cite web | url=http://thechurchofthebigring.com/author/mark-twight | title=Archive by Author | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203045512/http://thechurchofthebigring.com/author/mark-twight | archive-date=2014-02-03}}{{cite web| url = https://medium.com/mft-discourse| url-status = dead| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20170321083218/https://medium.com/mft-discourse| archive-date = 2017-03-21| title = MFT Discourse – Medium}} Twight has lived in Salt Lake City, Utah since 2001.

His first book, "Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High”[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1064 Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High] {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}} (1999) won the Mountain Exposition award at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival{{Cite web|url=http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Exposition.htm|title=Banff Mountain Book Festival - Mountain Exposition Awards}} and the National Outdoor Book Award.{{Cite web|url=http://www.noba-web.org/bookrel99.htm|title=Media Information Page: 1999 National Outdoor Book Awards|website=www.noba-web.org}} "Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber"[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1248 Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber] {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}} (2001) won the Mountain Literature{{Cite web|url=http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Literature.htm|title=Banff International Mountain Book Festival Mountain Literature award winners}} category at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival, 2001, and was shortlisted at the Trento mountain book festival in Italy, 2005.[http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 34th Premio ITAS award winners] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110722034813/http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 |date=July 22, 2011 }}, 2005 His personal website contains much recent writing about fitness, mental attitude, and other topics. His essays and articles have been published in seven countries, and translated into five languages.

• Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}
• Extreme Alpinism {{ISBN|978-0-89886-654-4}}
• Refuge {{ISBN|978-1-7335180-1-7}}

{{Reflist}}

• [http://www.gymjones.com Gym Jones]
• [http://www.marktwight.com Personal Site]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20090905174534/http://www.andrew-pleavin.com/aspgj.html Andrew Pleavin's site]

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Category:American mountain climbers

Category:1961 births

Category:Living people