Marmolada
{{short description|Mountain in the Dolomites, Italy}}
{{Expand Italian}}
{{More citations needed|date=May 2014}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Marmolada
| photo = Marmolata, 3343m.jpg
| photo_caption = Marmolada seen from Col di Rosc in June 2019
| elevation_m = 3343
| elevation_ref = [http://peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/EuroCoreP1500m.html "Europe Ultra-Prominences"]. Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
| prominence_m = 2131
| prominence_ref =
Ranked 9th in the Alps
| map = Alps
| map_caption = Alps
| listing = Ultra
Alpine mountains above 3000 m
| location = Italy
| range = Dolomites
| coordinates = {{coord|46|26|05|N|11|51|03|E|type:mountain_region:IT_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| range_coordinates =
| first_ascent = 28 September 1864 by Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Fulgenzio Dimai
| easiest_route = rock/ice climb
| other_name = Queen of the Dolomites
}}
{{Distinguish|Marmelade|Marmalade}}
Marmolada (Ladin: Marmolèda; German: Marmolata, {{IPA|de|maʁmoˈlaːta|pron|De-Marmolata.ogg}}) is a mountain in northeastern Italy and the highest mountain of the Dolomites (a section of the Alps). It lies between the borders of Trentino and Veneto. The Marmolada is an ultra-prominent peak (Ultra), known as the "Queen of the Dolomites". In 2009, as part of the Dolomites, the Marmolada massif was named a UNESCO World Heritage site.{{Cite web |title=Marmolada: the 2nd System of the UNESCO Dolomites |url=https://www.dolomitiunesco.info/en/the-dolomites-unesco-world-heritage-site/the-nine-systems-of-the-dolomites/marmolada |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage |language=en-US}}{{Cite web |title=The Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage {{!}} Italy |url=https://www.dolomites.org/dolomites-unesco-world-heritage/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=dolomites.org |language=en}} The largest glacier in the Dolomites, the Marmolada Glacier, is located on the northern face of the mountain.{{Cite web |title=Marmolada: il Sistema 2 delle Dolomiti UNESCO |url=https://www.dolomitiunesco.info/dolomiti-patrimonio-mondiale-unesco/i-nove-sistemi-dolomitici/marmolada |access-date=2024-12-13 |website=Dolomiti Patrimonio Mondiale UNESCO |language=it-IT}}
Geography
The mountain is located about {{convert|100|km}} north-northwest of Venice, from which it can be seen on a clear day. It consists of a ridge running west to east. Towards the south it breaks suddenly into sheer cliffs, forming a rock face several kilometers long. On the north side, there is a comparatively flat glacier, the only large glacier in the Dolomites (the Marmolada Glacier, Ghiacciaio della Marmolada).
The ridge is composed of several summits, decreasing in altitude from west to east: Punta Penia {{convert|3,343|m}}, Punta Rocca {{convert|3,309|m}}, Punta Ombretta {{convert|3,230|m}}, Monte Serauta {{convert|3,069|m}}, and Pizzo Serauta {{convert|3,035|m}}. An aerial tramway goes to the top of Punta Rocca. During the ski season, the Marmolada's main ski run is open for skiers and snowboarders alike, making it possible to ski down into the valley.
{{Infobox UNESCO World Heritage Site|WHS=The Dolomites|Criteria=vii, viii|ID=1237rev-002|Coordinates=N46 25 54.00
E11 51 23.00|Year=2009|Link=https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1237/maps/|Location=Dolomites}}
History
Paul Grohmann made the first ascent in 1864, along the north route. The south face was climbed for the first time in 1901 by Beatrice Tomasson, Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel.{{cite journal|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2001_files/AJ%202001%20105-113%20Reisach%20Tomasson.pdf|title=Beatrice Tomasson and the South Face of the Marmolada|last=Reisach|first=Hermann|journal=Alpine Journal|pages=105–113|year=2001|access-date=8 April 2014}}
= First World War =
{{See also|White War}}
Until the end of World War I the border between Austria-Hungary and Italy ran over Marmolada, so it formed part of the front line during that conflict. Austro-Hungarian soldiers were quartered in deep tunnels bored into the northern face's glacier, and Italian soldiers were quartered on the south face's rocky precipices. It was also the site of fierce mine warfare on the Italian Front.
On December 13, 1916, an avalanche on Marmolada became known as White Friday, striking the Austro-Hungarian barracks and killing 270 soldiers. The Gran Poz avalanche is the deadliest avalanche ever recorded.https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/worst-avalanche-disaster-death-toll As glaciers retreat, soldiers' remains and belongings are occasionally discovered.{{Cite web |title=Dartmouth Undergraduate Journal of Science {{!}} History is lost in the Melt of Italy’s “Queen” |url=https://sites.dartmouth.edu/dujs/2020/11/09/history-is-lost-in-the-melt-of-italys-queen/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=sites.dartmouth.edu |language=en-US}}
= 2022 Serac collapse =
On 3 July 2022, a serac collapsed which led to the sliding downstream of over 200 000 m3 of ice and debris, killing eleven people and wounding eight more.{{Cite web |date=2022-07-03 |title=Italian glacier collapse kills seven |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-62029780 |access-date=2022-07-05 |website=BBC News |language=en-GB}}{{Cite web |title=Italian Alps glacier collapse death toll rises to 9, with 3 still missing |url=https://www.cnn.com/2022/07/06/world/italy-avalanche-glacier-rescue-victims-intl-hnk/index.html |access-date=2022-07-07 |website=CNN}}[https://mattinopadova.gelocal.it/regione/2022/07/08/news/tragedia-sulla-marmolada-i-corpi-recuperati-sono-dieci-manca-solo-nicolo-zavatta-1.41557308 Tragedia sulla Marmolada: i corpi recuperati sono dieci, manca solo Nicolò Zavatta]
Selected climbing routes
File:Marmolada d'Ombretta - South Face.jpg
The south face of Marmolada Ombretta has become a mecca for rock climbers. Climbers have set over 200 routes with varying difficulties.https://www.thecrag.com/it/arrampicata/italy/dolomites/agordino/area/5101994994{{Cite web |title=Marmolada - Punta Ombretta : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost |url=https://www.summitpost.org/marmolada-punta-ombretta/963711 |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=www.summitpost.org}} They include:
- 1979 – Don Quixote, south face of Marmolada di Ombretta. First ascent by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl{{Cite web |title=Don Quixote, Marmolada d'Ombretta, Marmolada, Dolomites |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/routes/don-quixote-marmolada-d-ombretta.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
- 1981 – Fish Route, south face of Marmolada di Ombretta. First ascent by Jindrich Suster and Igor Koller.{{Cite web |last=gripped |date=2017-02-22 |title=Hansjörg Auer Talks About His Solo of Marmolada Fish Route |url=https://gripped.com/video/hansjorg-auer-talks-solo-marmolada-fish-route/#:~:text=In%202007,%20Austrian%20climber%20Hansj%C3%B6rg,took%20only%20a%20few%20hours. |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}
- 1983 – Alì Babà, south face of Marmolada di Ombretta. First ascent by M. Giordani, F. Zenatti, P. Cipriani
- August 2008 – AlexAnna, southwest face of Punta Penia, Marmolada. First ascent by Rolando Larcher and Pilastro Lindo. 700m, 8a+/8b, 7b mandatory{{Cite web |title=AlexAnna, new route by Rolando Larcher on Marmolada, Dolomites |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexanna-new-route-by-rolando-larcher-on-marmolada-dolomites.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
- 2009/2011 – Invisibilis, south face of Marmolada di Ombretta. First ascent by Rolando Larcher and Geremia Vergoni. Route established over 5 days from 2009 to 2011. 405m, 7c+ max, 7a+ mandatory{{Cite web |title=Invisibilis on Marmolada, the long history of a new route by Larcher and Vergoni |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/invisibilis-on-marmolada-the-long-history-of-a-new-route-by-larcher-and-vergoni.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
- Summer 2011 – Bruderliebe, south face of Marmolada di Ombretta. first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and brother Vitus Auer. 8b/+{{Cite web |title=Bruderliebe, Marmolada d'Ombretta, Marmolada, Dolomites |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/routes/bruderliebe-marmolada-d-ombretta.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
- September 2023 – Madre Roccia, South Face. First ascent by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani. The 900m, 8b max and 7b mandatory.{{Cite web |title=Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-route-marmolada-dolomites-established-iris-bielli-matteo-della-bordella-massimo-faletti-maurizio-giordani.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
- August 2024 – Ego Land, South Face. First ascent by Bernardo Rivadossi and Massimo Faletti. 410-meter multi-pitch, 8c/c+ max, 7c+ mandatory{{Cite web |title=Ego Land added to Marmolada (Dolomites) by Bernardo Rivadossi, Massimo Faletti, Luca Bana |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ego-land-added-marmolada-dolomites-bernardo-rivadossi-massimo-faletti-luca-bana.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
Climbing incidents
- 26 July 1938 – Three Italian climbers were killed by rockfall when a lightning bolt struck the cliff face.{{Cite news |title=ITALIAN CLIMBERS KILLED; Three Alpinists Swept From Cliff on Mount Marmolada |url=https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1938/07/26/98169488.html?pageNumber=13 |access-date=2024-09-08 |work=The New York Times |language=en |issn=0362-4331}}
- 27 July 2022 – British hiker Louise Atkinson was hiking with her husband when they got lost on a via ferrata used for high-altitude fighting during World War I. She slipped and fell over 100 feet to her death.{{Cite web |title=British woman falls to death in Italian Dolomites - UPI.com |url=https://www.upi.com/Top_News/World-News/2022/07/27/British-woman-falls-to-death-in-Italian-Dolomites/2851658940922/ |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=UPI |language=en}}
- 3 September 2024 – Professional mountaineers Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin were fatally injured when they fell while climbing Don Quixote on Marmolada's south face. The cause of the accident was unknown.{{Cite web |title=Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin perish in Dolomites climbing accident |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/francesco-favilli-filippo-zanin-perish-dolomites-climbing-accident.html |access-date=2024-09-08 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}
Gallery
File:Marmolada + Sellaronda tour 34.jpg|The highest point of Marmolada, Punta Penia
File:Marmolada, Italy.jpg|Marmolada in autumn
File:Marmolada 3342 m Punta Rocca View from the West - panoramio.jpg|Punta Rocca, 3342 m
File:Marmolada - Malga Contrin, Pozza di Fassa, Trento, Italy - August 29, 2013 02.jpg|Marmolada - Malga Contrin
See also
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
{{Commons category|Marmolada}}
- Computer generated summit panoramas [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/panoramas/EUR/Marmolada-N.gif North] [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/panoramas/EUR/Marmolada-S.gif South] [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/panoramas.html Index]
- [http://www.hike.uno/mountain/punta_penia_marmolada/39/1366 Marmolada on Hike.uno]
{{Ultras of Europe}}{{Lists of World Heritage Sites}}{{Authority control}}
Category:World Heritage Sites in Italy
Category:Mountain ranges of Italy
Category:Highest points of Italian regions