Mary Randolph

{{Short description|American author (1762–1828)}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=March 2019}}

{{Infobox person

| name = Mary Randolph

| image = Mrs. David Meade Randolph, head-and-shoulders portrait, right profile LCCN2007677865 (cropped).jpg

| caption = 1807 engraving of Mary Randolph

| birth_date = {{Birth date|1762|8|9}}

| birth_place = Chesterfield County, Virginia

| death_date = {{Death date and age|1828|1|23|1762|8|9}}

| death_place = Washington, D.C., U.S.

| resting_place = Arlington National Cemetery

| occupation = Writer

| spouse = {{marriage|David Meade Randolph|1780}}

| children = 4

| parents = Thomas Mann Randolph Sr.
Ann Cary Randolph

| relatives = {{plain list|

}}

|}}

Mary Randolph (August 9, 1762 – January 23, 1828) was a Southern American cook and author, known for writing The Virginia House-Wife; Or, Methodical Cook (1824),[https://archive.org/details/virginiahousewif00randrich archive.org] one of the most influential housekeeping and cook books of the 19th century. Many of the recipes used local Virginia ingredients including Tanacetum vulgare virginia pudding, pickled nasturtiums and desserts with the native gooseberry.Snodgrass, M. E. Encyclopedia of Kitchen History, Fitzroy Dearborn Publishers (2004) She was the first person known to be buried at what would become known as Arlington National Cemetery.

Early life

File:Coat of Arms of William Randolph.svg

Mary Randolph was born on August 9, 1762, at Ampthill Plantation in Chesterfield County, Virginia.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vUEvDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA44|title=Richmond's Culinary History: Seeds of Change|last=Egan|first=Maureen|last2=Winiecki|first2=Susan|year=2017|publisher=Arcadia Publishing|isbn=978-1-4396-6314-1|page=44}} Her parents were Thomas Mann Randolph Sr. (1741–1794) and Anne Cary Randolph (1745–1789).{{cite web|url=http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/authors/author_randolph.html|title=Mary Randolph at Feeding America}} The extended Randolph family was one of the richest and most political significant families in 18th century Virginia.

Mary's father was orphaned at a young age and raised by Thomas Jefferson's parents who were distant cousins. Her father also served in the Virginia House of Burgesses, the Revolutionary conventions of 1775 and 1776, and the Virginia state legislature. Anne Cary Randolph was the daughter of Archibald Cary, an important Virginia planter. Anne's grandmother, Jane Bolling Randolph completed a cookbook manuscript in 1743 which was handed down to her daughter Jane Randolph Walke.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RAGQt70ViKkC&pg=PR19|title=Colonial Virginia's Cooking Dynasty|last=Harbury|first=Katharine E.|date=2004|publisher=Univ of South Carolina Press|isbn=978-1-57003-513-5|page=19}}

Mary Randolph was the oldest of Thomas and Anne's 13 children. Her brother Thomas Mann Randolph Jr. married Martha Jefferson (daughter of Thomas Jefferson) and became a Congressman and Governor of Virginia. One sister, Virginia Randolph Cary, was a noted essayist{{Cite web|url=http://www.lva.virginia.gov/public/dvb/bio.asp?b=Cary_Virginia_Randolph|title=Dictionary of Virginia Biography - Virginia Randolph Cary (30 January 1786-2 May 1852) Biography|website=www.lva.virginia.gov|language=en|access-date=November 12, 2017}} and another, Harriet, married Richard Shippey Hackley who became US Consul and they lived in Cadiz, Spain. She was probably the source of the Spanish recipes in Randolph's cookbook.{{cite web |title=Mary Randolph's family - Bizarre scandal, Pocahontas, Jefferson, eccentrics and Spanish foods |url=http://researchingfoodhistory.blogspot.com/2015/08/mary-randolphs-family-bizarre-scandal.html |website=Researching Food History |access-date=January 24, 2019|date=August 10, 2015 }} Her sister, Ann Cary "Nancy" Randolph, was the wife of Gouverneur Morris and mother of Gouverneur Morris Jr.{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=wi5d_lsF59kC&pg=PA133 |title=Women of the Constitution: Wives of the Signers |last=McKenney |first=Janice E. |date=November 15, 2012 |publisher=Scarecrow Press |isbn=978-0-8108-8499-1 |pages=133–134 |language=en}} Ann figured in a scandal involving her brother-in-law and distant cousin, Richard Randolph of Bizarre, in which he was accused of "feloniously murdering a child said to be borne of Nancy [Ann] Randolph."{{cite web | url=https://www.monticello.org/site/research-and-collections/ann-cary-randolph-morris#footnote1_mty9gtw | title=Ann Cary Randolph Morris | publisher=Monticello, Thomas Jefferson Foundation | access-date=January 13, 2020 }}

Randolph grew up at Tuckahoe Plantation in Goochland County, Virginia. The Randolphs were known to hire professional tutors to teach their children. Mary would likely have learned reading, writing, and arithmetic in addition to domestic skills.{{Cite news|url=http://makinghistorynow.com/2016/04/mary-randolph-and-african-culinary-connections/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160426170505/http://makinghistorynow.com/2016/04/mary-randolph-and-african-culinary-connections/|url-status=usurped|archive-date=April 26, 2016|title=Mary Randolph and African Culinary Connections|work=Making History|access-date=November 12, 2017|language=en-US}}

Marriage

File:David Meade Randolph, head-and-shoulders portrait, left profile LCCN2007677866 (cropped).jpg

In December 1780, 18-year-old Mary Randolph married her first cousin once removed, David Meade Randolph (1760–1830), a Revolutionary War officer and tobacco planter. The newlyweds lived at Presquile, a 750-acre plantation that was part of the Randolph family's extensive property in Chesterfield County, Virginia.{{Cite web|url=http://www.chesterfield.gov/content.aspx?id=2978|title=County of Chesterfield, VA {{!}} Historic Chesterfield - Mary Randolph - History|website=www.chesterfield.gov|access-date=November 12, 2017}} Over the course of their marriage, Mary and David had eight children, four of whom survived to adulthood.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ItJ2CQAAQBAJ&pg=PT36|title=True Richmond Stories: Historic Tales from Virginia's Capital|last=Kollatz|first=Harry Jr.|date=July 31, 2007|publisher=Arcadia Publishing|isbn=978-1-62584-401-9|page=36}}

Around 1795 President George Washington appointed David Randolph the U.S. Marshal of Virginia and by 1798, the family had moved to Richmond, where they built a mansion called "Moldavia" (a combination of Molly, a nickname for Mary, and David) at the corner of 5th and Main Streets. Mary Randolph was a celebrated hostess in Richmond.

David Randolph was a Federalist and an open critic of his second cousin Thomas Jefferson. After Jefferson's election to the presidency, he removed David Randolph from office and the family's fortunes declined.

Boarding house

In 1807, Mary Randolph opened a boarding house in Richmond. In March 1808, an advertisement appeared in The Richmond Virginia Gazette: "Mrs. RANDOLPH Has established a Boarding House in Cary Street, for the accommodation of Ladies and Gentlemen. She has comfortable chambers, and a stable well supplied for a few Horses." David was in England during the 1810 census which listed Mary as the head of a Richmond household that included nine slaves.{{cite web |title=To James Madison from David Meade Randolph, 14 June 1811 |url=https://founders.archives.gov/documents/Madison/03-03-02-0397 |website=Founders Online |access-date=January 25, 2019}}

In May 1815, Harriott Pinckney Horry spent a few days at the Randolph's boardinghouse and described Randolph's refrigerator in her journal.{{cite web |title=Mary Randolph's 1825 Refrigerator |url=http://researchingfoodhistory.blogspot.com/2012/04/mary-randolphs-1825-refrigerator.html |website=Researching Food History |access-date=January 24, 2019|date=April 24, 2012 }} Inside a 4 by 3 1/2 foot box there was another box four inches smaller. The space between the two was packed with powdered charcoal and the refrigerator was filled with ice daily to cool butter, meat and other foods.{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=feG7xCABZ44C&pg=PA11|title=A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770|last=Horry|first=Harriott Pinckney|date=1984|publisher=Univ of South Carolina Press|isbn=978-0-87249-437-4|page=11}} In the 1825 2nd edition of her cookbook, Randolph included sketches for a refrigerator and bath tub. Years later an author claimed (falsely) that Randolph invented the refrigerator and that her design was stolen and patented by a Yankee who stayed in her boardinghouse.

By 1819, the Randolphs had given up their boardinghouse and moved to Washington to live with their son William Beverly Randolph. While in Washington, Mary Randolph completed her cookbook and in 1824 The Virginia House-Wife was published.

''The Virginia House-Wife''

Randolph's influential housekeeping book The Virginia House-Wife was first published in 1824 and it was republished at least nineteen times before the outbreak of the Civil War. The book was 225 pages long, included nearly 500 recipes,{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m2MDbbzwXaQC&pg=PA19|title=Southern Food: At Home, on the Road, in History|last=Egerton|first=John|date=1987|publisher=UNC Press Books|isbn=978-0-8078-4417-5|page=19}} and resulted from Randolph's "practical experience as keeper of a large establishment, and perhaps in the hope of further augmenting the family income."{{cite encyclopedia|last=Rutledge|encyclopedia=Notable American Women (1607–1950)|first=Anna Wells|publisher=Belknap Press of Harvard University Press|title=Randolph, Mary Randolph|volume=3|location=Massachusetts|pages=117–118|date=1974}} The Virginia House-Wife is considered the first regional American cookbook.

The Virginia House-Wife was an overall household guide and in addition to recipes it also explained how to make soap, starch, blacking and cologne.{{Cite book |last=Randolph |first=Mary |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=oszKiYe2RyAC |title=The Virginia House-wife |date=1824 |publisher=Univ of South Carolina Press |isbn=978-0-87249-423-7}}

Later years

File:Arlington National Cemetery - NPS marker for grave of Mary Randolph - 2011.jpg, at Arlington National Cemetery.]]

Randolph spent the last years of her life caring for her son Burwell Starke Randolph, who had been disabled while serving in the Navy. Randolph was the first person known to be buried at what would become Arlington National Cemetery,{{cite web |url=https://www.arlingtoncemetery.mil/Explore/Notable-Graves/Women |title=Prominent Women Figures |publisher=Arlington National Cemetery |access-date=August 27, 2018 }}[https://ancexplorer.army.mil/publicwmv/#/arlington-national/search/results/1/CghyYW5kb2xwaBIEbWFyeQ--/ Burial Details: Randolph, Mary (Section 2, Grave S-6)] – ANC Explorer at the home of her cousin George Washington Parke Custis, stepgrandson of George Washington and father of Mary Custis, wife of Robert E. Lee.

Influence

Southern cookbooks similar to The Virginia House-Wife were published in the years that followed. Two of the most important were The Kentucky Housewife by Lettice Bryan (1839) and The Carolina Housewife by Sarah Rutledge (1847).

In 1982, James Beard praised Mary as "a far-seeing culinary genius" in The Richmond News Leader. He was particularly impressed by her use of tomatoes, writing "At a time when few people thought of tomatoes at all, she provided food recipes for tomato ketchup, tomato marmalade and tomato soy." According to culinary historian Andrew F. Smith, Randolph's wide range of tomato recipes "set the standard for tomato cookery over the next three decades."{{Cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/tomatoinamericae00smit_0|url-access=registration|title=The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery|last=Smith|first=Andrew F.|date=1994|publisher=Univ of South Carolina Press|isbn=978-1-57003-000-0|page=[https://archive.org/details/tomatoinamericae00smit_0/page/74 74]}}

In a 2014 essay for National Geographic, restaurateur José Andrés cited Mary Randolph as an influence. Andrés serves Randolph's gazpacho at his America Eats Tavern and believes that Randolph's "Gazpacho recipe demonstrates just how far back the notion of this country as a cultural melting pot goes."{{Cite news|url=http://theplate.nationalgeographic.com/2014/07/24/jose-andres-what-it-means-to-cook-american-food/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140729043523/http://theplate.nationalgeographic.com/2014/07/24/jose-andres-what-it-means-to-cook-american-food/|url-status=dead|archive-date=July 29, 2014|title=José Andrés: What It Means to "Cook American" Food|date=July 24, 2014|work=The Plate|access-date=November 12, 2017|language=en-US}}

Honors

File:Arlington National Cemetery - Grave of Mary Randolph - 2011.jpg

In 2009 Randolph was posthumously honored as one of the Library of Virginia's "Virginia Women in History".{{cite web|title=Virginia Women in History: Mary Randolph (1762–1828)|url=http://www.lva.virginia.gov/public/vawomen/2009/honoree.asp?bio=1|publisher=Library of Virginia|access-date=March 4, 2015}} In 1999, the state of Virginia erected a historical marker in her honor near the site of her birth in Chesterfield County.{{cite web|url=http://xroads.virginia.edu/~ma04/kane/thesis/mrmarker.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060901115804/http://xroads.virginia.edu/~MA04/kane/thesis/mrmarker.htm |url-status=dead |archive-date=September 1, 2006 |title=Mary Randolph, Chesterfield County |publisher=Xroads.virginia.edu |access-date=July 6, 2016}}

References

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