Matty Hong
{{short description|American rock climber (born 1991)}}
{{use mdy dates|date=October 2021}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = Matty Hong 2019.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Hong in 2019
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age | df = yes |1991|09|04}}{{cite web |title=Matty Hong |url=https://www.scarpa.com/community/athletes/matty-hong |publisher=Scarpa |access-date=October 14, 2021}}
| birth_place = Boulder, Colorado, United States
| occupation = Rock climber, film director, photographer
| spouse =
| typeofclimber =
| knownfor = Becoming the fourth American climber to send a {{Climbing grade|5.15b}} route
| education = University of Colorado Boulder
| highestredpoint = {{Climbing grade|5.15b}}
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|5.13a}}
| highestboulder = {{Boulder grade|V15}}
}}
File:2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Semifinals - Matty Hong - 01.jpg
Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at {{Climbing grade|5.15b}}. As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a {{climbing grade|9a+}} graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.{{cite news |last1=Davis |first1=Shannon |title=Behind the Lens of Reel Rock, Climbing's Best Film Tour |url=https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/behind-the-lens-of-reel-rock-climbings-best-film-tour |access-date=October 14, 2021 |publisher=REI |date=November 20, 2017}}
Early life and education
Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.{{cite news |title=Strong Climber Matty Hong Grew Up in a Climbing Family |url=https://gripped.com/news/strong-climber-matty-hong-grew-climbing-family/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Gripped |date=April 29, 2018}} He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first {{Climbing grade|5.13d}} and {{Climbing grade|5.14a}} routes in Rifle.{{cite news |last1=Chrobak |first1=Ura |title=Generation 5.16: Matty Hong |url=https://www.climbing.com/people/generation-5-16-the-matty-hong-profile/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Climbing |date=April 28, 2018}}
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder,{{cite web |title=Matty Hong |url=https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/de_LU/athletes/matty-hong/ |publisher=Black Diamond Equipment |access-date=October 15, 2021}} Hong climbed his first {{Climbing grade|5.15a}} route, Papichulo {{Climbing grade|5.15a}} in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.
Climbing career
=Sport climbing=
In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle{{cite news |last1=Carpenter |first1=Hayden |title=Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the "Boys Club" of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) |url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/margo-hayes-18-breaks-the-boys-club-of-bad-girls-club-5-14d/ |access-date=October 14, 2021 |work=Rock & Ice |date=August 15, 2016}} and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.{{cite news |last1=Purtell |first1=Joe |title=Snapshot: Matty Hong – Raised on Rifle |url=https://www.rockandice.com/people/snapshot-matty-hong-raised-on-rifle/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Rock & Ice |date=December 7, 2017}}
In May 2018, he climbed the {{Climbing grade|5.15b}} Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade{{cite news |last1=Anderson |first1=Sam |title=Matty Hong Claims First Repeat of 'Flex Luthor,' 5.15b, 18 Years After First Ascent |url=https://explorersweb.com/2021/10/13/matty-hong-claims-first-repeat-of-flex-luthor-5-15b-18-years-after-first-ascent/ |access-date=October 14, 2021 |work=explorersweb.com |date=October 13, 2021}} after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.{{cite news |title=Matty Hong Becomes Fourth American to Climb 5.15b |url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/matty-hong-becomes-fourth-american-to-climb-5-15b/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Rock & Ice |date=May 3, 2018}}
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to {{Climbing grade|5.15b}} from {{Climbing grade|5.15a}} after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.{{cite news |last1=Potter |first1=Steven |title=Matty Hong Sends Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luther—Upgrades to 5.15b. |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/matty-hong-sends-tommy-caldwells-flex-luther-upgrades-to-5-15b/ |access-date=October 19, 2021 |work=Climbing |date=October 18, 2021}}{{cite news |title=Breaking News: Matty Hong repeats Flex Luthor, proposes 5.15b |url=https://gripped.com/news/breaking-news-matty-hong-repeats-flex-luthor-proposes-5-15b/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Gripped |date=October 13, 2021}} In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to {{climbing grade|5.15a}}.{{cite web | website=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/jonathan-siegrist-flex-luthor-downgrade/ | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=November 9, 2022 | accessdate=November 21, 2022 | title=Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor', Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade.}}
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie {{climbing grade|9a+}}, in Ceuse.
=Competition climbing=
Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category.{{cite web |title=Matty Hong — IFSC |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&task=athlete.display&id=6088 |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing |access-date=October 15, 2021}} He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.{{cite news |last1=Fox |first1=Amanda |title=Austrians Rule American Roost: Lead World Cup |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/austrians-rule-american-roost-lead-world-cup/ |access-date=October 15, 2021 |work=Climbing |date=October 10, 2011}}
Notable ascents
=Redpoint=
- {{Climbing grade|5.15b|link=no}}
- Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018
- Flex Luthor, Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, 2021.
- {{Climbing grade|5.15a|link=no}}
- Realization/Biographie, Ceuse. France, 2023.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/hong-does-biographie-cobra-crack-sees-a-repeat-and-70th-anniversary-of-everest-fa/ | title=Hong Does 'Biographie,' Cobra Crack Sees a Repeat, and 70th Anniversary of Everest FA | date=30 May 2023 | accessdate=20 July 2023 | first=Delaney | last=Miller}}
- La Rambla, Siurana, Spain, 2017
- Papichulo, Oliana, Spain, 2017
- Joe Mama, Oliana, Spain, 2017
=First ascent=
- {{Climbing grade|5.14d|link=no}}
- Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011
- Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014
- Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
- {{Climbing grade|5.14c|link=no}}
- La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015
- Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
- Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
=Onsight=
- {{Climbing grade|5.13a|link=no}}
- Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
- {{Climbing grade|5.14b|link=no}}
- Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya
=Bouldering=
- {{Boulder grade|V15|link=no}}
- Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012
- Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020
=Competition climbing=
- Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO
Filmography
- Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2282396/extraordinary-effort-margo-hayes|title=The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes|last=Salabert|first=Shawnte|date=2020-03-12|website=Outside Online|language=en|archive-url=|archive-date=|access-date=2021-10-19}}
References
{{Ref list}}
External links
- {{IMDb name | id= nm9464230 }}
- [https://www.thenorthface.com/about-us/athletes/matty-hong.html The North Face profile]
- [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/athletes/matty-hong-9669 UKclimbing.com profile]
- [https://www.thecrag.com/climber/mattyhong Matty Hong's profile on theCrag]
{{DEFAULTSORT:Hong, Matty}}
Category:American rock climbers
Category:Sportspeople from Boulder, Colorado
Category:American documentary film directors