Mount Foraker

File: Mt. Foraker base camp.jpg

File:Mt Foraker Alaska Sunrise.jpg

Mount Foraker was named in 1899 by Lt. J. S. Herron after Joseph B. Foraker, then a sitting U.S. Senator from Ohio.{{cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=a-gqAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA345 | title=Geological Survey Professional Paper, Volume 567 | publisher=U.S. Government Printing Office | year=1967 | pages=345}}

The Koyukon native peoples in the Lake Minchumina area had a broadside view of the mountains and thus gave distinctive names to both Foraker and Denali. According to Hudson Stuck, the Koyukon had two names for Mount Foraker: Sultana meaning "the woman" and Menlale meaning "Denali's wife". The Denaʼina of the Susitna River valley called the mountain Be'u meaning his wife (Denali) and the Lower Tanana Athabascans to the north are reported to have had the same name (Denali) for Mount Foraker as they had for Denali (federally designated as Mount McKinley), and it appears that the names were not applied to individual peaks but instead to the Denali massif. The mountain, along with Denali, was called Bolshaya Gora ("big mountain") in Russian.{{Citation needed|date=September 2019}}

• 1934 West Ridge FA of Mount Foraker by Charles Houston, T. Graham Brown and Chychele Waterston.{{Cite journal | last = Roach | first = Gerard | title = The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 20 | issue = 50 | pages = 277 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1976 | isbn = 978-0-930410-73-5 }}
• 1963 Southeast Ridge. 2nd ascent. July 7. By Jim Richardson and Jeff Duenwald. Expedition led by Adams Carter.{{Cite web|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196405200/print|title=American Alpine Club Journal|last=Carter}}
• 1968 Talkeetna Ridge, South Ridge FA by Alex Bertulis, Warren Bleser, Hans Baer and Peter Williamson (US). The summit was reached on July 26, 1968. 4th ascent of peak.{{Cite journal | last1 = Bleser | first1 = Warren | last2 = Bertulis | first2 = Alex | title = Mount Foraker's South Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 16 | issue = 43 | pages = 289–294 | publisher = American Alpine Club

| location = Philadelphia, PA, USA | year = 1969 }}

• 1974 Southwest Toe of Southeast Ridge, variation to the South Ridge, ascent by Peter Reagan, Joe Davidson, Bob Fries, Jim Given, Mark Greenfield, Pippo Lionni, Eric Morgan and Frank Uher.{{Cite journal | last = Reagan | first = Peter | title = Mount Foraker, Southeast Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 20 | issue = 49 | pages = 116 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1975 }}
• 1975 Archangel Ridge, the north ridge, FA by Gerard and Barbara Roach, Brad Johnson, David Wright, Stewart Krebs and Charles Campbell. Summit reached on July 14, 1975. Subsequently skied.{{Cite journal | last = Roach | first = Gerard | title = The Archangel - Foraker's North Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 20 | issue = 50 | pages = 277–284 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1976 | isbn = 978-0-930410-73-5 }}
• 1976 French Ridge, the South/Southeast Ridge, FA by Henri Agresti, Jean-Marie Galmiche, Gerard Creton, Herve Thivierge, Isabelle Agresti (all France) and Werner Landry (US). Summit reached on June 3 and 4, 1976.{{Cite journal | last = Agresti | first = Henri | title = Mount Foraker, South-Southeast Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 21 | issue = 51 | pages = 149–152 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1977 }}
• 1977 Infinite Spur, on the south face by Michael Kennedy and George Lowe. Ascent time 6 days.{{Cite book | last = Selters | first = Andy | title = Ways to the Sky | publisher = American Alpine Club Press | year = 2004 | location = Golden, CO, USA | pages = 263 | isbn = 0-930410-83-1 }}
• 1977 Southwest Ridge, Nancey Goforth, Erik LeRoy, Chris Liddle, and Murray Marvin. The summit was reached on June 25, 1977, after 47 days spent on Mount Foraker.{{Cite journal | last = LeRoy | first = Erik | title = Foraker's Southwest Ridge | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 21 | issue = 52 | pages = 359–365 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1978 }}
• 1984 Pink Panther Route Daniel Vachon, Jean Francois Gagnon, Julien Dery (Canada)and Graham Sanders (Australia). Climbing the obvious S-shaped couloir in the middle of the East face to reach directly above the buttress and straight up to the S.E. ridge. Summit reached on May 25, 1984. From May 21 to May 27.{{cite journal|title=Foraker Pink Panther Route|first=Daniel|last=Vachon|journal=American Alpine Journal|volume=27|issue=59|url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198501400}}
• 1989 Infinite Spur, second ascent or route by Mark Bebie and Jim Nelson (US). Summit reached on June 24, 1989, after 13 days on the mountain.{{Cite journal | last = Bebie | first = Mark | title = Foraker's Infinite Spur | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 32 | issue = 64 | pages = 28–35 | publisher = American Alpine Club | location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1990 | isbn = 0-930410-43-2 }}
• 1990 False Dawn, on the southeast face, first ascent by John Phelan (US) and David Sharman (UK). Summit reached on May 27, 1990, after 5 days on the mountain.
• 2016 Infinite Spur, first solo ascent and fastest ascent to date, by Colin Haley. Ascent time was 12:29 from the bergschrund to summit. The descent was completed in a whiteout via the Sultana Ridge over the ensuing 48 hours.{{cite web|last1=Haley|first1=Colin|title=Infinite Spur Laps|url=http://www.colinhaley.com/infinite-spur-laps/|access-date=8 May 2017}}

{{panorama|image=File:Mt McKinley wide view from Kashwitna Lake.jpg|height=200px|caption=Mount Foraker, on the left, is 3,000' shorter than Denali on the right, but appears taller in this image due to foreshortening. Photo taken from Kashwitna Lake roughly {{convert|100|mi|km}} south of the mountains. Mount Hunter is just to the left of Denali.|align=left}}

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{{cite journal | url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199110400/print |title = False Dawn—Foraker

| publisher = American Alpine Club | access-date=2015-03-14}}

}}

1. {{note|fourth}} This ranking includes Denali North Peak as number 2.

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• [http://www.photomountains.com/dameasy/pages/Alaska_Range/Foraker/index.html PhotoMountains: High resolution aerial photographs of Mount Foraker climbing routes]

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Category:Alaska Range

Category:Mountains of Denali Borough, Alaska

Mount Foraker

Category:Mountains of Denali National Park and Preserve

Category:Denaʼina