Mount Stuart

{{short description|Mountain in Washington, United States}}

{{Other uses}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=January 2025}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Mount Stuart

| photo = Mount Stuart.jpg

| photo_caption = Mount Stuart from the south.

| elevation_ft = 9415

| elevation_ref = {{ngvd29}}{{cite peakbagger|2182|Mount Stuart, Washington}}

| prominence_ft = 5354

| prominence_ref =

| listing = {{unbulleted list

|US most prominent peaks 102nd

}}

| location = Chelan County, Washington, U.S.

| range = Stuart Range, Cascade Range

| map = USA Washington

| map_caption = Location in Washington

| map_size = 250

| label_position = right

| coordinates = {{coord|47.4751179|N|120.9031444|W|type:mountain_region:US-WA_scale:100000_source:ngs|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| range_coordinates =

| coordinates_ref = {{cite ngs|SX1189|Mount Stuart}}

| topo = USGS Mount Stuart

| type = Granite

| age = Late Cretaceous

| first_ascent = 1873 by A. McPherson and party

| easiest_route = Major scramble

}}

Mount Stuart is a mountain in the Cascade Range, in the U.S. state of Washington. It is the second highest non-volcanic peak in the state, after Bonanza Peak and seventh-highest overall.{{cite web |last=Howbert |first=Jeff |title=Washington 100 Highest Peaks |publisher=The Northwest Peakbaggers Asylum |url=http://howbert.com/mountains/WA_top_100x400P/WA_top_100x400P_list.html}} Mount Stuart is the highest peak in the Stuart Range, and it is located in the central part of the Washington Cascades, south of Stevens Pass and east of Snoqualmie Pass in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Name

Mount Stuart was given its name by George B. McClellan in September 1853 in honor of his oldest and best friend, "the late Capt. Jas. [Jimmie] Stuart of the Rifles—a gallant soldier & accomplished gentleman." Stuart had died of an arrow wound on June 18, 1851, following a skirmish with Native Americans at the base of the Siskiyou Mountains in southwest Oregon.{{cite book |last=Beckey |first=Fred |authorlink=Fred Beckey |title=Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range |publisher=Oregon Historical Society Press |year=2003 |isbn=0-87595-243-7 |pages= 80, 83}}Meany, Edmond Stephen, [https://journals.lib.washington.edu/index.php/WHQ/article/viewFile/6122/5196 Origin of Washington Geographic Names, Volum XI, page 217], The Washington Historical Quarterly, 1920

Topography

Mount Stuart is more notable for its local relief than for its absolute elevation. For example, the south face rises {{convert|5000|ft}} in just {{convert|2|mi|km|adj=pre|horizontal}}. The northeast and northwest sides of the mountain exhibit similar steep relief.{{cite map |publisher=USGS |title=Mount Stuart quadrangle, Washington |url=http://www.topoquest.com/map.php?lat=47.47513&lon=-120.90239&datum=nad83&zoom=4&map=auto&coord=d&mode=zoomin&size=l |scale=1:24000 |series=7.5 Minute Topographic}} Due to its location away from higher peaks, Mount Stuart has a topographic prominence of {{convert|5354|ft}}, making it the sixth most prominent in the state.{{cite web |last=Howbert |first=Jeff |title=All Washington Peaks with 2000 Feet of Prominence |publisher=The Northwest Peakbaggers Asylum |url=http://howbert.netherweb.com/mountains/WA_all_2000P/WA_all_2000P_list_Psort.html }} The rock of Mount Stuart is rugged due to the extensive jointing of the granite. The north slopes of the mountain shelter three glaciers - Stuart, Ice Cliff and Sherpa Glaciers from west to east.

Climate

{{Weather box

|location = Mount Stuart 47.4749 N, 120.9001 W, Elevation: {{cvt|8484|ft}} (1991–2020 normals)

|single line = y

|width=auto

|Jan high F = 24.6

|Feb high F = 24.3

|Mar high F = 26.1

|Apr high F = 31.0

|May high F = 39.8

|Jun high F = 46.0

|Jul high F = 56.4

|Aug high F = 57.1

|Sep high F = 51.2

|Oct high F = 40.2

|Nov high F = 28.0

|Dec high F = 23.1

|Jan mean F = 19.6

|Feb mean F = 18.1

|Mar mean F = 18.8

|Apr mean F = 22.6

|May mean F = 30.8

|Jun mean F = 36.5

|Jul mean F = 45.4

|Aug mean F = 46.1

|Sep mean F = 40.5

|Oct mean F = 31.3

|Nov mean F = 22.6

|Dec mean F = 18.4

|Jan low F = 14.6

|Feb low F = 11.9

|Mar low F = 11.4

|Apr low F = 14.2

|May low F = 21.7

|Jun low F = 27.0

|Jul low F = 34.4

|Aug low F = 35.1

|Sep low F = 29.9

|Oct low F = 22.4

|Nov low F = 17.2

|Dec low F = 13.7

|precipitation colour = green

|Jan precipitation inch = 12.07

|Feb precipitation inch = 8.17

|Mar precipitation inch = 7.58

|Apr precipitation inch = 4.12

|May precipitation inch = 2.87

|Jun precipitation inch = 1.75

|Jul precipitation inch = 0.71

|Aug precipitation inch = 0.80

|Sep precipitation inch = 2.09

|Oct precipitation inch = 6.69

|Nov precipitation inch = 12.12

|Dec precipitation inch = 10.82

|source=PRISM Climate Group{{cite web

|url= http://prism.oregonstate.edu/explorer/

|title= PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University

|publisher= PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University

|access-date= September 28, 2023

|quote= To find the table data on the PRISM website, start by clicking Coordinates (under Location); copy Latitude and Longitude figures from top of table; click Zoom to location; click Precipitation, Minimum temp, Mean temp, Maximum temp; click 30-year normals, 1991-2020; click 800m; click Retrieve Time Series button.}}

}}

Climbing history

It is not known for sure who made the first ascent of Mount Stuart. According to Fred Beckey: "Claude Rusk... was told by Frank Bryant of Yakima about finding a stick at the summit bearing the name `Angus McPherson—1873.' A. H. Sylvester, who climbed to the summit in 1897 and 1899 for triangulation, believed the first ascent was made by Frank Tweedy and Richard Goode during the Northern Pacific land survey."{{cite book |last=Beckey |first=Fred W. |title=Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 1, Columbia River to Stevens Pass |edition=2nd |year=1987 |publisher=Mountaineers Books |page=300}} Tweedy (after whom Tweedy's pussypaws is named) climbed Mount Stuart on August 5, 1883, and two days later again with Goode (after whom Goode Mountain is named). They did not report finding evidence of an earlier ascent.John Roper, [http://www.rhinoclimbs.com/WA100HighestFAChronology.htm Washington's highest mountains first ascent chronology], 2004 Since [http://www.summitpost.org/cascadian-couloir/156462 the easiest route] is not too technical, an earlier Native American ascent is also a possibility.

The standard route is the Cascadian Couloir up the southeast flank of the mountain, which ascends to a false summit just southeast of the main summit, and finishes along a short ridge. The route involves scrambling and often steep snow. Far more technical climbs are available on the complex north face and other aspects of the mountain.

See also

References

{{Reflist|30em}}