Mugs Stump
{{Short description|American rock climber and mountaineer (1949–1992)}}
{{Infobox person
|name= Mugs Stump
|image=
|birth_name= Terry Stump
|birth_date= August 28, 1949
|birth_place= Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, US
|death_date= May 21, 1992 (aged 42)
|death_place= Denali Borough, Alaska, AK
|nationality= American
|organization= United States Antarctic Program, National Science Foundation
|occupation= Mountaineer
|parents= Warren Stump and Florence Manbeck
|relatives= 3 brothers: Ed, Quig, and Thad
}}
Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies. He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21, 1992, while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.{{cite news|title=Expedition Leader Killed in Mount McKinley Fall|date=26 May 1992|work=Daily Sitka Sentinel|page=8|url=https://sitkasentinel.newspaperarchive.com/sitka-daily-sentinel/1992-05-26/page-8/|url-access=subscription}}
He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson with Jamie Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali's Cassin Ridge.
Climber Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film Meru.{{cite web | last = Schaffer| first = Grayson| title = How Conrad Anker Risked It All to Chase a Dream | date = 18 June 2015| publisher = Outside | url = https://www.outsideonline.com/1990471/meru-conrad-anker-profile | access-date = 2017-06-15 }}
Stump, along with his geologist brother, contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation.
The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.{{cite web | last = Heinrich | first = Doug | title = about Mugs / Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award | publisher = Black Diamond Equipment | url = http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/mugs_stump/about.html | access-date = 2009-05-29 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20090106015515/http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/mugs_stump/about.html | archive-date = 2009-01-06 | url-status = dead }}
Early life
Mugs was born in Mifflintown, Pennsylvania, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father Warren and three brothers.
First ascents and notable ascents
- 1978 Stump/Logan, Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jamie Logan.{{cite journal | last = Logan | first = James | title = Mount Robson's Emperor Face | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 22 | issue = 53 | pages = 122–124 | publisher = American Alpine Club| location = New York, NY USA | year = 1979 | isbn = 978-0-930410-75-9 }}
- 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters, East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, US (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Jim Bridwell{{cite journal | last = Beckwith | first = Christian | title = Gods and Monsters | journal = Alpinist | issue = 8 | publisher = Alpinist Magazine | date = September 1, 2004 | url = http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP08/editors-note-monsters | access-date = 2009-05-29 }}
- 1981 Moonflower Buttress, North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest.{{cite web | title = 1981 Mountaineering Summary, Denali National Park and preserve | publisher = National Park Service | url = http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1981_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20080210131949/http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1981_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf | url-status = dead | archive-date = February 10, 2008 | access-date = 2009-05-29}}
- 1987 South Face Broken Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range (IV 5.10+ A3). FA with Steve Quinlan{{cite journal | title = Climbs and expeditions 1987 | journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 30 | issue = 62 | pages = 109, 115 | publisher = American Alpine Club| location = New York, NY USA | year = 1988 | isbn = 0-930410-33-5 }}
- 1990 Rodeo Queen, Streaked Wall, Zion National Park, FA with Conrad Anker{{cite web | title = First Ascent Info | publisher = Bigwall dot Com | url = http://bigwall.com/fainfo.html | access-date = 2008-02-06}}
- 1991 Freezer Burn aka Free or Burn (IV 5.11+), East Temple, Zion National Park, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler{{Cite book | last = Bjornstad | first = Eric | title = Desert Rock – Rock Climbs in the National Parks | publisher = Chockstone Press | year = 1996 | location = Evergreen, CO | page = 75 | isbn = 0-934641-92-7 }}
- 1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with John Middendorf. First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter.
References
{{Reflist|30em}}
External links
- [http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/02/the-dream-a-journey-of-the-spirit-with-mugs-stump.html The Dream – A Journey of the Spirit with Mugs Stump]
- [http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=440954&tn=0&mr=0 mugs]
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Category:American mountain climbers
Category:American rock climbers
Category:Mountaineering deaths
Category:People from Juniata County, Pennsylvania
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