Nadiri
{{Short description|Type of overcoat}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2023}}
{{Use Indian English|date=May 2023}}
File:Jahangir - Abu al-Hasan.jpeg holding a globe—he is dressed in nadiri.{{Cite book |last1=Crill |first1=Rosemary |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ongF6dkNKAcC&dq=A+detailed+portrait+of+the+Mughal+Emperor+Jahangir+holding+a+globe+wearing&pg=PA76 |title=The Indian Portrait, 1560-1860 |last2=Jariwala |first2=Kapil |date=2010 |publisher=Mapin Publishing Pvt Ltd |isbn=978-81-89995-37-9 |language=en}}{{Rp|page=76}}]]
Nadiri was a type of a overcoat that was specifically reserved for the Mughal emperor Jahangir ({{reign|1605|1627}}) and his esteemed courtiers.{{Cite book |last=Umair Mirza |url=http://archive.org/details/a-short-history-of-muslim-rule-in-india |title=Indian History - Collection of Indian History- Collection 7 |date=2021-07-31 |pages=223}}{{Cite book |last=Findly |first=Ellison Banks |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ugxFjVDk3I8C&dq=nadiri(dress)&pg=PA221 |title=Nur Jahan: Empress of Mughal India |date=1993-03-25 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=978-0-19-536060-8 |pages=221 |language=en}} The vest was an invention of his own, which he had named 'Nadiri'.{{Citation |last=Koch |first=Ebba |title=Jahangir as Publius Scipio Maior |date=2018 |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350987579.ch-003 |work=Portraiture in South Asia Since the Mughals |access-date=2023-04-28 |publisher=I.B. Tauris|doi=10.5040/9781350987579.ch-003 |isbn=978-1-83860-897-2 }} Nadiri was known as {{Lang|pes|kurdi}} among the people in Persia.{{Cite book |last=Goswamy |first=B. N. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=1IHWAAAAMAAJ&q=%22Nadiri+coat%22+-wikipedia |title=Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles |date=1993 |publisher=D.S. Mehta |pages=119 |language=en}} The term 'nadiri' was meant to refer to rarity.{{Cite book |last=Kumar |first=Ritu |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qYK1AAAAIAAJ&q=jahangir+nadiri+rarity |title=Costumes and Textiles of Royal India |date=2006 |publisher=Antique Collectors' Club |isbn=978-1-85149-509-2 |pages=40 |language=en}}
Style
The Nadiri is a sleeveless coat that extends down to the thighs and features buttons at the front. It was traditionally worn over the Qaba, a long coat with sleeves and buttons.{{Cite book |last=Sharma |first=Sunil |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.2307/j.ctvgd336 |title=Mughal Arcadia |date=2017-11-27 |publisher=Harvard University Press |doi=10.2307/j.ctvgd336 |isbn=978-0-674-98124-9}}{{Cite book |last=Chaudhuri |first=K. N. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=cYY6AAAAIAAJ&dq=%22Nadiri+coat%22+-wikipedia&pg=PA182 |title=Asia Before Europe: Economy and Civilisation of the Indian Ocean from the Rise of Islam to 1750 |date=1990 |publisher=CUP Archive |isbn=978-0-521-31681-1 |pages=182 |language=en}}
Jahangir's fashion and artistic interests
According to historical records, Jahangir had a passion for fashion and his attire, including his turbans and jewelry, and tended to be more extravagant and ornate compared to the fashion sense of his father Akbar's era. Jahangir had a strong interest in art and architecture. He documented events, descriptions of flora and fauna, and daily life in his reign in his autobiography, the Jahangirnama. He also commissioned court painters like Ustad Mansur to create detailed artworks to accompany his writing.{{Cite book |last=Beach |first=Milo Cleveland |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0RjwxGMKC9cC&q=Cleveland+Beach,+Milo+(1992).+Mughal+and+Rajput+Painting.+Cambridge:+Cambridge+University+Press. |title=Mughal and Rajput Painting |date=1992-09-24 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-0-521-40027-5 |pages=89, 90 |language=en}} Jahangir adorned himself with magnificent clothing crafted from intricate silks and brocades. In addition, he introduced a variety of new dresses, including the nadiri, which he reserved for those whom he chose to grant it to.{{Cite book |last=Mohamed Nasr |url=http://archive.org/details/51oT8g03aBL.SX312BO1204203200 |title=Nur Jahan Empress of Mughal India |pages=63}}
Jahangir's fashion was closely monitored and emulated by the court. He issued a decree that specified certain textiles and garments to be made exclusively for his use. As a reward for their loyalty and service, the emperor bestowed selected courtiers with gifts of clothing and jewelry, including the nadiri that was designed by himself.{{Cite book |last=Dey|first=Gouri |url=http://archive.org/details/fashionanddesigningunderthemughalsakbartoaurangzeb.ahistoricalperspective |title=Fashion And Designing Under The Mughals Akbar To Aurangzeb. A Historical Perspective |pages=138 |language=English}}
As stated in the emperor's memoir, Jahangir had a unique outfit consisting of nadiri, tus shawl, batugiriban, qaba made of Gujarati satin, chera, and waist-belt woven with silk and gold threads, which he kept for himself.{{Cite book |last=Mohamed Nasr |url=http://archive.org/details/MughalCostumes16th18thCenturyAndRoyalCostumes |title=Mughal Costumes ( 16th 18th Century) And Royal Costumes |pages=129 |language=English}}
Jahangir holding a globe
Mughal paintings have elements from Central Asia and Europe as well as Persian and Indian styles and methods.{{Cite journal |last=Asher |first=Catherine B. |date=2017-07-31 |title=Mughal Paintings: Art and Stories, The Cleveland Museum of Art. Edited by Sonya Rhie Quintanilla with Dominique DeLuca . London: D. Giles Limited, 2016. 386 pp., 400 color illustrations. {{text|ISBN:}} 9781907804892 (cloth). |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/s0021911817000717 |journal=The Journal of Asian Studies |volume=76 |issue=3 |pages=823–825 |doi=10.1017/s0021911817000717 |issn=0021-9118 |s2cid=164872106}} Mughal paintings spanning the 16th to 19th century depict various aspects of life during that period, including legendary tales, warfare, courtly activities, gardens, hunting, and wildlife.{{Cite book |last1=Ali |first1=Azmat |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ABvzDwAAQBAJ&dq=Victoria+and+Albert+Museum+in+London+houses+a+large+and+impressive+collection+of+Mughal+paintings.&pg=PA32 |title=IAS Mains Paper 1 Indian Heritage & Culture History & Geography of the world & Society 2020 |last2=Sahni |first2=Janmejay |last3=Sharma |first3=Mohit |last4=Sharma |first4=Prajjwal |last5=Goel |first5=Dr Priya |date=2019-11-12 |publisher=Arihant Publications India limited |isbn=978-93-241-9210-3 |language=en}}
Jahangir is depicted here [in the above image] wearing magnificent court attire, including a patterned sleeveless jacket that he dubbed nadiri ('rarity'). He is wearing two patkas (sashes) around his waist: the longer one is intricately embroidered with gold floral designs, while the shorter one is made of Rajasthani tie-dye fabric.{{Cite book |url=http://archive.org/details/indianportrait150000unse |title=The Indian portrait, 1560-1860 |date=2010 |location=London |publisher= National Portrait Gallery Publications |isbn=978-1-85514-409-5 |pages=76}}
References
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{{Clothing in South Asia}}
{{Historical clothing}}