Roberto Cavalli

{{Short description|Italian fashion designer and inventor (1940–2024)}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2024}}

{{about|the designer|his fashion house|Roberto Cavalli (company)}}

{{Infobox fashion designer

|image = Roberto Cavalli Photographed by Ed Kavishe.jpg

|caption = Cavalli in 2009

|name = Roberto Cavalli

|birth_date = {{birth date|1940|11|15|df=y}}{{cite news |work=The New York Times |author=Steven Kurutz |title=Roberto Cavalli, Designer Who Celebrated Excess, Dies at 83 |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2024/04/12/fashion/roberto-cavalli-dead.html |date=12 April 2024}}

|birth_place = Florence, Kingdom of Italy

|death_date = {{death date and age|2024|04|12|1940|11|15|df=y}}

|death_place = Florence, Italy

|spouse = {{marriage|Silvanella Giannoni|1964|1974|end=div}}
{{marriage|Eva Düringer|1980|2010|end=div}}

|partner = Sandra Nilsson

|children = 6

|education =

|occupation = Founder of Roberto Cavalli

|label_name = {{hlist|Roberto Cavalli|Justcavalli|Roberto Cavalli Junior|Roberto Cavalli Parfums|Roberto Cavalli Home}}

|awards =

}}

Roberto Cavalli ({{IPA|it|roˈbɛrto kaˈvalli}}; 15 November 1940 – 12 April 2024) was an Italian fashion designer and inventor. He was known for exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans. The Roberto Cavalli fashion house sells luxury clothing, perfume and leather accessories.{{Cite news |last=Friedman |first=Vanessa |last2=Bernstein |first2=Jacob |date=2024-04-12 |title=Roberto Cavalli, a Life Out Loud |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2024/04/12/style/roberto-cavalli-a-life-out-loud.html |access-date=2025-01-12 |work=The New York Times |language=en-US |issn=0362-4331}}

Early life

Cavalli was born in a suburb of Florence, Italy on 15 November 1940. His grandfather, Giuseppe Rossi, an artist and member of the Macchiaioli Movement, produced work that was exhibited in the Uffizi Gallery. His father was killed in 1944 in the {{Interlanguage link|Cavriglia massacre|it|Strage di Cavriglia}}, a Nazi reprisal on civilians, when he was four.{{cite news |last1=Cuozzo |first1=Ciro |title=Addio allo stilista Roberto Cavalli: il padre ucciso dai nazisti, le tre donne della sua vita, i sei figli (Giorgio nato un anno fa) e la malattia |url=https://www.ilriformista.it/addio-allo-stilista-roberto-cavalli-il-padre-ucciso-dai-nazisti-le-tre-donne-della-sua-vita-i-sei-figli-giorgio-nato-un-anno-fa-e-la-malattia-417294/ |access-date=13 April 2024 |work=Il Riformista |date=12 April 2024 |language=it-IT |archive-date=12 April 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240412202416/https://www.ilriformista.it/addio-allo-stilista-roberto-cavalli-il-padre-ucciso-dai-nazisti-le-tre-donne-della-sua-vita-i-sei-figli-giorgio-nato-un-anno-fa-e-la-malattia-417294/ |url-status=live }} Cavalli enrolled at the local art institute, concentrating on textile print. While still a student, he made a series of flower prints on knit that caught the attention of major Italian hosiery manufacturers.{{Cite web |date=2024-04-13 |title=Roberto Cavalli, chi è l'ex moglie Silvana Cavalli/ Dopo il matrimonio sono nati due figli |url=https://www.ilsussidiario.net/news/roberto-cavalli-chi-e-lex-moglie-silvana-cavalli-dopo-il-matrimonio-sono-nati-due-figli/2690288/ |access-date=2025-01-12 |language=it-IT}}

Career

In the early 1970s, he invented and patented a printing process on leather, and started creating patchworks of different materials. He debuted these techniques in Paris, immediately winning commissions from the likes of Hermès and Pierre Cardin. At age 32, he presented his first namesake collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris. He brought it to the catwalks of the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti in Florence, and later his Milano Collezioni featured jeans made of printed denim, intarsia leathers, brocade, and wild-animal prints. In 1972, he opened his first boutique in Saint-Tropez.{{cite news |last1=Zargani |first1=Luisa |date=12 April 2024 |title=Roberto Cavalli Dies At 83 |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/roberto-cavalli-fashion-designer-dies-1235713655/ |access-date=12 April 2024 |work=WWD |publisher=Penske Media Corporation |archive-date=13 April 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240413063501/https://gum.criteo.com/syncframe?origin=publishertagids&topUrl=wwd.com&us_privacy=1---&gpp=DBABBg~BUoAAAKA.QA&gpp_sid=8 |url-status=live }}

In 1975, he founded the house of Roberto Cavalli fashion, incorporating "femininity, spiritedness, and leopard print" as its pillars. The brand acquired appeal for its stable and unvarying looks despite the changing trends.{{cite web |last=Ramzi |first=Lilah |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/future-fashion-collectibles |title=Before the Met’s Show of Costume Institute Treasures, A Prediction of Future Fashion Collectibles |magazine=Vogue |date=3 May 2024 |access-date=18 May 2024 |archive-date=10 May 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240510083954/https://www.vogue.com/article/future-fashion-collectibles |url-status=live}}

In Milan in 1994, Cavalli presented the first sand-blasted jeans. By December of the same year, he had opened boutiques in Saint Barth, in the French Caribbean, followed by others in Venice and Saint-Tropez. Besides his main line, which is sold in more than 50 countries worldwide, Cavalli designed RC Menswear, as well as the youth-aimed diffusion line Just Cavalli, launched in 2000,{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/roberto-cavalli-biography|author=Caroline Leaper|title=Roberto Cavalli|work=Vogue|date=22 April 2008|access-date=6 June 2017|archive-date=10 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180610164447/http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/roberto-cavalli-biography|url-status=live}} today encompasses men’s and women’s wear and accessories, watches, jewelry, perfumes, eye wear, under garments, and beach attire. There is also the Angels & Devils Children Collection, the Class line, shoes and two underwear collections. In 2002, Cavalli opened his first café-store in Florence, revamping it with his signature animal prints. Soon after, in Milan, the Just Cavalli café at Torre Branca opened, as well as another boutique on Via della Spiga.

In July 2011, his company collection was presented at the catwalk of The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona.{{cite web|url=http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en |access-date=14 July 2011 |title=The Brandery Catwalk|url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110903012646/http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en |archive-date=3 September 2011 }}

On 18 June 2013, he was awarded an Honorary Master Diploma in Fashion Management from Domus Academy in Milan, during a ceremony after which he held a lectio magistralis.{{cite web |url=http://www.domusacademy.com/site/home/news--events/on-going-news/roberto-cavalli.html |title=Tuesday, June 18Th | Roberto Cavalli At |publisher=Domus Academy |date=22 September 2015 |access-date=26 September 2015 |archive-date=21 February 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140221042049/http://www.domusacademy.com/site/home/news--events/on-going-news/roberto-cavalli.html |url-status=live }}

Personal life and death

In 1964, Cavalli married Silvanella Giannoni, with whom he had two children, before their divorce in 1974.

In 1977, while serving as a judge at the Miss Universe pageant, he met contestant Eva Düringer, whom he married in 1980. Together, they had three children and Düringer became his business partner. They worked together until selling the business. They divorced in 2010.{{Cite news |last=Donnell |first=Chloe Mac |date=2024-04-13 |title=Roberto Cavalli, flamboyant Italian fashion designer, dies aged 83 |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2024/apr/12/roberto-cavalli-flamboyant-italian-fashion-designer-dies-aged-83 |access-date=2024-04-13 |work=The Guardian |language=en-GB |issn=0261-3077 |archive-date=12 April 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240412215758/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2024/apr/12/roberto-cavalli-flamboyant-italian-fashion-designer-dies-aged-83 |url-status=live }}

In 2023, Cavalli announced the birth of his sixth child, with his partner, Swedish model and actor Sandra Nilsson.{{cite news |date=8 March 2023 |title=Roberto Cavalli è diventato papà a 82 anni |url=https://www.tgcom24.mediaset.it/people/roberto-cavalli-papa-82-anni-_61985629-202302k.shtml |access-date=8 March 2023 |publisher=tgcom24.mediaset.it |agency=tgcom24.mediaset.it |archive-date=8 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230308134806/https://www.tgcom24.mediaset.it/people/roberto-cavalli-papa-82-anni-_61985629-202302k.shtml |url-status=live }}

Cavalli died at his home in Florence, Italy, on 12 April 2024, aged 83, following a long period of ill-health.{{cite news |last=Phillips |first=Hedy |date=12 April 2024 |title=Roberto Cavalli, Italian Fashion Designer, Dead at 83: 'A Life Lived with Love' |url=https://people.com/fashion-designer-roberto-cavalli-dead-at-83-8630881 |accessdate=12 April 2024 |archive-date=13 April 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240413052546/https://people.com/fashion-designer-roberto-cavalli-dead-at-83-8630881 |url-status=live }}{{cite news |last1=Zargani |first1=Luisa |date=12 April 2024 |title=Roberto Cavalli Dies At 83 |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/roberto-cavalli-fashion-designer-dies-1235713655/ |access-date=12 April 2024 |work=WWD |publisher=Penske Media Corporation |archive-date=13 April 2024 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240413063501/https://gum.criteo.com/syncframe?origin=publishertagids&topUrl=wwd.com&us_privacy=1---&gpp=DBABBg~BUoAAAKA.QA&gpp_sid=8 |url-status=live }}

Brand

As of January 2014, Cavalli returned to the role of men's creative director from his son, Daniele Cavalli, starting with the 2014 fall collection, appointing Martyn Bal as his righthand man.{{cite web | url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/design-change-7399470?src=nl/mornReport/20140129 | title=Daniele Cavalli Exits Roberto Cavalli | publisher=WWD | date=29 January 2014 | access-date=29 January 2014 | author=Turra, Alessandra | archive-date=19 February 2014 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140219182821/http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/design-change-7399470?src=nl/mornReport/20140129 | url-status=live }} Also, on 24 January 2014, Gianluca Brozzetti (CEO) and Carlo Di Biagio (COO) announced they were leaving the fashion brand.

In May 2014, Cavalli approached Investcorp, an investment firm in the Persian Gulf, as a potential buyer of a stake in his fashion brand.{{cite news|title= Roberto Cavalli approaches Investcorp for possible investment|work= Reuters|date= 27 May 2014|url= https://www.reuters.com/article/us-cavalli-investcorp-idUSKBN0E70CJ20140527|access-date= 27 May 2014|archive-date= 12 January 2016|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20160112115953/http://www.reuters.com/article/us-cavalli-investcorp-idUSKBN0E70CJ20140527|url-status= live}}

Many leading models have worked for the brand: Jessica Stam, Eva Riccobono, Laetitia Casta, Natasha Poly, Mariacarla Boscono, Karen Elson, Karolina Kurkova, and Ivan Olita{{cite web|title=Singers designer, Armani as gettonato|url=http://www.corriere.it/spettacoli/speciali/2009/sanremo/notizie/sanremo_moda_bulbarelli_671a9136-fcd5-11dd-b299-00144f02aabc.shtml|publisher=Corriere della Sera|access-date=17 February 2009|archive-date=21 February 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090221034445/http://www.corriere.it/spettacoli/speciali/2009/sanremo/notizie/sanremo_moda_bulbarelli_671a9136-fcd5-11dd-b299-00144f02aabc.shtml|url-status=live}} among others.{{citation needed|reason=See talk page|date=December 2015}}

Former Acne Studios creative consultant Paul Surridge succeeded Peter Dundas as creative director for the brand in May 2017.Erica Gonzales,

[http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a9630742/roberto-cavalli-peter-surridge-creative-director/ ROBERTO CAVALLI ANNOUNCES PETER SURRIDGE AS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Former Acne creative consultant Paul Surridge succeeds Peter Dundas, who left in October.] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170510210250/http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a9630742/roberto-cavalli-peter-surridge-creative-director/ |date=10 May 2017 }} harpersbazaar.com 10 May 2017

In 2019, DAMAC Properties's Hussain Sajwani completed the acquisition of Italian fashion group Roberto Cavalli. {{cite news |url=https://www.constructionweekonline.com/business/260992-damac-chairmans-investment-firm-acquires-italys-roberto-cavalli |title=Damac chairman's investment firm acquires Italy's Roberto Cavalli |last=Warrier |first=Ranju |date=1 December 2019 |newspaper=Construction Week Online |access-date=17 January 2020 |archive-date=16 January 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200116105445/https://www.constructionweekonline.com/business/260992-damac-chairmans-investment-firm-acquires-italys-roberto-cavalli |url-status=live }}

Criticism

Cavalli was sharply criticized in 2004 by the Hindu community for marketing a line of feminine underwear (designed for Harrods) which featured the images of Hindu goddesses. The line was eventually withdrawn and formal apologies were made.{{cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3790315.stm|title=Harrods apology over Hindu bikinis|publisher=BBC News|date=9 June 2004|access-date=9 June 2004|archive-date=19 December 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171219230933/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3790315.stm|url-status=live}}

The Maktab Tarighat Oveyssi Shahmaghsoudi school of Islamic Sufism accused Cavalli of copying their "sacred emblem" for branding the Just Cavalli line.{{cite news|title=Designer Cavalli soll islamisches Symbol entweiht haben|newspaper=Der Spiegel |date=10 May 2014 |url=http://www.spiegel.de/panorama/leute/plagiat-roberto-cavalli-soll-islamisches-logo-entweiht-haben-a-968721.html|language=de|trans-title=Designer Cavalli said to have desecrated Islamic symbol|publisher=Spiegel.de|access-date=26 September 2015|archive-date=24 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924191500/http://www.spiegel.de/panorama/leute/plagiat-roberto-cavalli-soll-islamisches-logo-entweiht-haben-a-968721.html|url-status=live}} The Sufi school brought forth a proceeding in Europe to the Office for Harmonization in the Internal Market (OHIM). "On 16 May 2014, the OHIM pronounced itself in the first degree rejecting the request made by the School to invalidate the Just Cavalli logo. The Court stated that the two logos are not mistakable and do not present any similarities."{{cite news|last=Swash|first=Rosie|title=Sufi students protest at Roberto Cavalli perfume logo's similarity to sacred symbol|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/may/29/roberto-cavalli-perfume-offends-sufi-students|work=The Guardian|date=29 May 2014 |access-date=13 December 2016|archive-date=14 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161014095918/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/may/29/roberto-cavalli-perfume-offends-sufi-students|url-status=live}} Nonetheless, students of the Sufi school continued their protest.{{cite web|title=Cavalli Store At NorthPark Center Draws Protest|date=23 May 2014 |url=https://www.cbsnews.com/dfw/news/cavalli-store-at-northpark-center-draws-protest/|publisher=Dfw.cbslocal.com|access-date=26 September 2015|archive-date=9 February 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209064351/https://www.cbsnews.com/dfw/news/cavalli-store-at-northpark-center-draws-protest/|url-status=live}}{{cite web|title=Protest Held in Beverly Hills Over Designer's Use of Islamic Symbol|date=31 May 2014 |url=http://losangeles.cbslocal.com/2014/05/31/protest-held-in-beverly-hills-over-designers-use-of-islamic-symbol/#.U4uzNwb_w7I.twitter|publisher=Losangelese.cbslocal.com|access-date=26 September 2015|archive-date=27 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150927081711/http://losangeles.cbslocal.com/2014/05/31/protest-held-in-beverly-hills-over-designers-use-of-islamic-symbol/#.U4uzNwb_w7I.twitter|url-status=live}}{{cite web |url=http://cnnallnews.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/ice-on-great-lakes-till-june.html?m=1#3 |title=CNN News: Ice on the Great Lakes till June? |publisher=Cnnallnews.blogspot.co.uk |date=1 June 2014 |access-date=26 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140607004418/http://cnnallnews.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/ice-on-great-lakes-till-june.html?m=1#3 |archive-date=7 June 2014 |url-status=dead }}{{cite web|title=Is Roberto Cavalli Stealing Ideas Consistently?|url=http://www.glammonitor.com/2014/09/13/roberto-cavalli-stealing-ideas/|publisher=GlamMonitor.com|access-date=26 September 2015|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150610011739/http://www.glammonitor.com/2014/09/13/roberto-cavalli-stealing-ideas/|archive-date=10 June 2015}}

References

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