Rolex Submariner

The Submariner model went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. This first Submariner's assigned case reference number was either 6204 or 6205. It is unclear which model came first; in any event, the two watches are nearly identical.[https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 1, The Early References]

Neither the distinctive "cathedral" or "Mercedes" hands are now so strongly associated with the Submariner line. Rather, both of these early submariners have straight "pencil" style hands.

Both the 6204 and 6205 were fitted with the A260 movement. Neither model displayed a depth rating on the dial. The 6204 was originally rated to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), but by 1954, Rolex certified the watch as waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in the accompanying catalog. The 6205 was depth rated to 100 meters (330 feet).{{Cite web|date=2024-08-28|title=The Rolex Submariner in the 1950s: A Detailed Exploration|url=https://thewatchbuyersgroup.com/stories/the-rolex-submariner-in-the-1950s-a-detailed-exploration/|access-date=2024-08-29|website=The Watch Buyers Group|language=en}}

Some 6204 models have the Submariner logo printed below the center pinion, while others have the logo blacked out. Few, if any, of the 6205 watches bear the name "Submariner" on the dial, a major distinction of modern Submariners. It is believed that there were unexpected trademark issues connected with the name "Submariner" at the time the 6204 and 6205 were released, accounting for the inconsistent use of the Submariner mark on these early Submariners. Trademark irregularities notwithstanding, both the 6204 and 6205 are designated Submariner models in Rolex product literature.

File:Back of Rolex Submariner Professional.JPG

In 1954, Rolex also produced a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners. This was the first Submariner (although not the first Rolex) to make use of the Mercedes hand set,{{Cite web|date=2018-01-28|title=6 Quick Facts About the Rolex Submariner 6200|url=https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-6200.html|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Bob's Watches|language=en}} a feature of all subsequent Submariners. The 6200 also featured an oversized winding crown compared to the 6204 and 6205 models.{{Cite web|date=March 2, 2011|title=A Submariner Ref 6200: What's The Deal With These Big Crowns, Anyway?|url=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-submariner-ref-6200-whats-the-deal-with-these-big-crowns-a|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Hodinkee|language=en}} Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) models. These watches had "improved" movements (the cal. 1030), including a chronometer version in some 6536 models (designated 6536/1), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the Submariner logo and depth rating printed on the dial.

By the early 1960s, these models had given way to the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. All of these early Submariners used either gilt (6200, 6204, 6205) or gilt/silver gilt (6536, 6538) printing on glossy black dials.{{Cite web|title=What's So Special About a Rolex Submariner? Glad You Asked|url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-07-25/why-rolex-submariner-is-the-best-which-to-buy-how-expensive|access-date=2021-08-01|website=www.bloomberg.com}} Radium paint was used for the luminous indices.{{Cite web|date=2020-02-29|title=Rolex Lume (Luminous materials) Complete guide|url=https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-luminous/|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Millenary Watches|language=en-US}}[https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date]

The next wave of Submariners, the 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer), marked a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. "Shoulders" were added to the case's crown side to protect the winding/setting mechanism. In early watches—until 1964, these shoulders were pyramid-shaped and ended in points. Later watches were manufactured with rounded shoulders. The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown, which thereafter became a standard feature of the Submariner line. In the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the luminous indices, switching to safer tritium-infused paint.

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In 1965–1966, Rolex discontinued using gilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing. A final important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s: the 1680 was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date function,{{Cite web |last=Altieri |first=Paul |date=2020-11-19 |title=Rolex 1680 Submariner Ultimate Guide |url=https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/appeal-reference-submariner-1680.html |access-date=2023-03-22 |website=Bob's Watches |language=en-US}} marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist no-frills utilitarian tool watch for scuba divers to mass market fashion accessory. While many professional and military divers used—and continue to use—Submariners in the most demanding underwater environments, by the late 1960s, the watch had undeniably become a mass-market product as well.

File:Rolex Glidelock.jpeg

Throughout the next 40 years, the Submariner was updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes.[https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-5-digit-references/ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 3, The 5-Digit References ]

In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner-Date anniversary edition (16610 LV), with distinguishing features such as the green bezel and Maxi dial; its production ended in 2010 with the final watches being issued with the new "random" serial number.{{Cite web|title=Rolex - A "new old stock" stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, accompanied by original Rolex guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags, 2003 {{!}} Game Changers New York Monday, December 9, 2019 Lot 3|url=https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080119/3|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Phillips|language=en}}

A new Submariner-Date, model 116613 (not to be confused with model 16613), based on the "Super Case" used in the GMT Master II, was presented at the 2008 Basel show. It featured heavier lugs and crown guards, a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, and a quick-adjust function "Glidelock" clasp. The first Submariner-Date models offered were a yellow gold with a blue face and bezel and a new white gold with a blue face and bezel. The stainless steel case model was presented at the 2010 Basel show. Its reference is 116610. An anti-reflective coating was applied to the inner side of the sapphire crystal.{{Cite web|date=2020-09-11|title=Rolex Cerachrom Bezel: A Closer Look|url=https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/TheWatchClub/2020/09/11/rolex-cerachrom-bezel/|access-date=2021-08-01|website=The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo|language=en-US}}[https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-4-modern-references/ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 4, The Modern Ceramic References ] The steel 14060M did not have these modifications.

At the 2012 BaselWorld watch show, an updated steel Submariner ref 114060 was introduced. It replaced the 14060M, with the newer "Super Case" with wider lug end shoulders, enlarged crown guards, enlarged "Chromalight" hour markers and broader hands for increased visibility, ceramic bezel inlay, blue Parachrom hairspring and bracelet with solely solid links featuring ceramic axle sleeves to prevent premature wear or bracelet stretch and a "Glidelock" extension system allowing for up to {{convert|20.0|mm|in|abbr=on}} of total adjustment in {{convert|2.0|mm|in|abbr=on}} increments without the use of any tools.{{cite web |url=http://www.hodinkee.com/2012/3/27/in-depth-the-new-rolex-submariner-no-date-reference-114060-l.html |title=In-Depth: The New Rolex Submariner No-Date Reference 114060 (Live Pics, Specs, Pricing, Video) |publisher=Hodinkee |date=21 February 2010 |accessdate=10 December 2012 |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20121130103426/http://www.hodinkee.com/2012/3/27/in-depth-the-new-rolex-submariner-no-date-reference-114060-l.html |archivedate=30 November 2012}}

The Rolex Submariner watch case has a diameter of {{convert|40.0|mm|in|lk=on|abbr=on}} and a thickness of {{convert|13.0|mm|in|abbr=on}} (crystal thickness {{convert|2.0|mm|in|abbr=on}}), and the case and bracelet weigh {{convert|155|g|oz|lk=on|abbr=on}}.[https://www.horobox.com/en/review-detail/?UserKey=Battle-Of-Three-Rolex-Divers&P=1 Battle Of Three Rolex Divers]

At the year 2020 Rolex retired the chunky looking "Super Case" by introducing a slightly enlarged watch case styled more to pre-"Super Case" slimmer looking Submariner models which has a depending on the source a {{convert|40.5|or|41.0|mm|in|lk=on|abbr=on}} diameter, a thickness of {{convert|12.3|mm|in|abbr=on}} and an anti-reflective coating applied on the inner side of the crystal. Like the watch case, the lug width has also been enlarged to {{convert|21.0|mm|in|lk=on|abbr=on}}.{{Cite web|last=Smith|first=Emily|date=29 July 2021|title=Rolex Submariner Guide For Collectors|url=https://www.the1916company.com/blog/rolex-submariner-guide.html|access-date=1 August 2021|website=www.the1916company.com|language=en }}[https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-date-126610lv-in-depth-review-specs-price/ The Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV]

The No-Date model features a caliber 3230 movement and the Date model features a caliber 3235 movement. Both are COSC certified.{{Cite web|date=2020-08-31|title=2020 Rolex Submariner 124060 41mm No-Date - Review, Live Pics, Price|url=https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-124060-41mm-no-date-2020-review-price/|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Monochrome Watches|language=en-US}}{{Cite web|date=2022-03-02|title=Review The Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV|url=https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-date-126610lv-in-depth-review-specs-price/|access-date=2023-09-24|website=Monochrome Watches|language=en-US}}

From 1970 onwards, the French diving company COMEX received a special version of Rolex Submariner 5513 featuring a helium release valve for their saturation divers.{{Cite web|title=COMEX Rolex|url=http://www.diving-watch.net/COMEX-ROLEX-|access-date=2021-08-01|website=www.diving-watch.net}}{{Cite web|title=A Quick Dive Into the Rolex-Comex Relationship|url=https://montrespubliques.com/1minute-reads/a-quick-dive-into-the-rolex-comex-relationship|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Montres Publiques|language=en-CA}} This version of the Submariner was based on the Sea Dweller designed for the needs of professional divers working at great depths and not the other way around as often claimed. In 1974, the first double-signed dials featuring the Comex logo were introduced followed by changing the reference number to 5514, thus creating an exclusive reference for Comex. These watches were never available to the public.

Rolex has disclosed that approximately 4 million Submariner watches were produced between 1953 and 2020. Based on current market prices, this equates to an estimated value of $46 billion for this period. Including production from 2020 onwards, Submariner watches' total value could exceed $50 billion. While the luxury watch market has experienced significant growth and volatility, precise figures for annual Rolex production have yet to be discovered. However, it is generally estimated that Rolex produces around one million timepieces annually.{{cite web | last=Hoffman | first=Andy | title=All the Rolex Submariner Watches Ever Made Are Now Near a Total $50 Billion Market Value | website=Bloomberg.com | date=2024-11-13 | url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2024-11-13/rolex-submariner-watches-globally-near-50-billion-market-value | access-date=2024-11-16}}

All models feature 300-meter (1000 feet) water resistance.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller, developed in 1967 but introduced to the general public in 1971, is a heavier-duty steel version of the Submariner, with a thicker case and crystal, as well as a date feature, minus the date magnifying lens ("cyclops"). The Sea-Dweller incorporates a helium escape valve for use when decompressing and helium is in the gas mixture of a pressurized habitat; this model (ref 16600) has a guaranteed waterproof depth of {{convert|1220|m|ft}}.

The Sea-Dweller was superseded by the DeepSea Sea-Dweller in late 2008,{{Cite web|date=November 9, 2017|first=Louis|last=Westphalen|title=Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller|url=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-rolex-sea-dweller|access-date=2021-08-01|website=Hodinkee|language=en}} with the last 16600 Sea-Dwellers produced running into the V-series (late 2008). The DeepSea features a 44 mm case that guarantees a depth of {{convert|3900|m|ft}} (ref. 116660).{{Cite web|title=Oyster Perpetual-Sea-Dweller - Rolex Deepsea|url=https://content.rolex.com/dam/media/user-guides/sea-dweller/rolex_sea-dweller_en.pdf}}

In late 2022 Rolex introduced the Deepsea Challenge, a commercial full ocean depth capable watch featuring a 50 mm titanium alloy case.[https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-rolex-oyster-perpetual-deepsea-challenge-rlx-titanium-126067-record-breaking-dive-watch-specs-price/ The Record-Breaking Rolex Deepsea Challenge RLX Titanium (And It's Not A Prototype)][https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-oyster-perpetual-deepsea-challenge-rlx-titanium-126067-review-opinion-price/ The Beast Of The Depths, The Titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067] The Deepsea Challenge model does not feature a date complication unlike the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller models, which were designed for saturation diving where people have to spend multiple days in pressurized environments.[https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-shatters-water-resistance-records-with-its-first-titanium-watch-and-weve-got-exclusive-live-pi Rolex Shatters Water-Resistance Records With Its First Titanium Watch] The DeepSea Challenge features a 50 mm case that guarantees a depth of {{convert|11000|m|ft}}..[https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-rolex-oyster-perpetual-deepsea-challenge-rlx-titanium-126067-record-breaking-dive-watch-specs-price/ The Record-Breaking Rolex Deepsea Challenge RLX Titanium (And It's Not A Prototype)][https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-oyster-perpetual-deepsea-challenge-rlx-titanium-126067-review-opinion-price/ The Beast Of The Depths, The Titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067]

• Waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres (1000 ft). Earlier models were thinner and resistant to {{convert|200|m|ft}}.
• Triplock system waterproof crown, featuring a triple gasket system, identified by three dots on the crown. Screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case to provide extra waterproof protection for underwater diving.
• Case made from solid block of 904L stainless steel since the 1980s, a corrosion-resistant alloy, or gold. The golds (white or yellow) are made in Rolex's foundry.
• Unidirectional bezel that enables a diver to memorize and follow immersion time. As the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "longer" in case of accidental bezel movement, averting the danger of spending too much time underwater.
• Perpetual rotor in the self-winding wristwatch mechanism, allowing the watch to run continuously, as every slight movement of the wrist winds the movement. The energy generated is stored in the mainspring, allowing the watch to continue to function with no movement for several days. Each movement is a Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC.
• Rolex calendar mechanism that advances to the next date at midnight in a single short rotation.
• Removable hologram on the caseback, featured until 2007.
• Recent models of the Submariner and Submariner-Date (late 2008) feature a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel", also known as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange" (English).[http://montresuisses.blogspot.com/2007/10/terms-of-art-rehaut-flange.html montresuisses.blogspot.com] It also contains a minuscule laser-etched Rolex Crown at the bottom of the crystal in line with 6 o'clock mark.

The Rolex Submariner has appeared in a number of James Bond movies. Sean Connery wore a reference 6538 in his first four movies. In Dr. No and From Russia with Love,{{cite web|url=http://www.ajb007.co.uk/articles/007/rolex-submariner/|title=Bonding with time|first=Donald|last=Grant|date=29 June 2006|accessdate=8 May 2014}} the watch was worn with a leather strap. In Goldfinger and Thunderball the strap had been swapped for an undersized NATO type nylon band. (The Ministry of Defence "G10" strap was not commissioned until 1973, and then only in admiralty grey without stripes.){{cn|date=March 2023}} George Lazenby wore a reference 5513 with an oyster bracelet in parts of On Her Majesty's Secret Service;{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pFV6C4K-jRIC&pg=PA267|page=267|publisher=Simon and Schuster|year=2012|title=Hello Goodbye Hello: A Circle of 101 Remarkable Meetings|last=Brown|first=Craig|isbn=9781451684520}} Roger Moore wore reference 5513 with a 7206 riveted bracelet in his first two Bond movies, Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun. Timothy Dalton is so far the last Bond actor to wear a Rolex in the Bond franchise; he wore a Submariner with a date window in his last Bond film, Licence to Kill. The watch may have been a 16800 or 168000, as the movie was shot in the summer of 1988. From GoldenEye onwards, James Bond wears different versions of the Omega Seamaster.[https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/planet-omega/cinema/james-bond James Bond] omegawatches.com[https://www.fratellowatches.com/omega-seamaster-james-bond-watches-an-overview/ All Omega Seamaster James Bond Watches - An Overview] Fratello Watches, 17 August 2015[https://www.watchtime.com/featured/watches-james-bond/ James Bond's Watches: The Complete Movie Timeline] WatchTime, 5 November 2018{{cite web|url=http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/watches/article/james-bond-watches-007-rolex-omega/ |title=A concise history of James Bond watches |first=Rebecca |last=Doulton |date=13 July 2017}}

• Dive watch
• Omega Seamaster
• Rolex Daytona
• Rolex Day-Date
• Rolex Datejust
• Rolex GMT Master II
• Rolex Milgauss
• Rolex Sea-Dweller
• Rolex Yacht-Master
• Rolex Explorer II

{{Reflist}}

• {{Cite web |last= |first= |title=Discover Iconic Pre-Owned Luxury Watches: Rolex, Omega, Cartier & More |url=https://www.vintagevaulttrader.com/blogs/discover-iconic-pre-owned-luxury-watches-rolex-omega-cartier-more-vintage-vault-trader/pre-owned-luxury-watches-rolex-omega-cartier |website=Vintage Vault Trader |publisher=Vintage Vault Trader |date=2024-10-20 |access-date=2024-10-20}}

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• [http://www.rolex.com/watches/submariner/m116610lv-0002.html Rolex:Submariner]
• [http://blog.dreamchrono.com/2014/04/rolex-submariner-ref-114060/ Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 Review]
• [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_submariner Rolex Submariner]
• [https://www.vintagevaulttrader.com/blogs/discover-iconic-pre-owned-luxury-watches-rolex-omega-cartier-more-vintage-vault-trader/pre-owned-luxury-watches-rolex-omega-cartier Discover Iconic Pre-Owned Luxury Watches: Rolex, Omega, Cartier & More] – Vintage Vault Trader blog about luxury watches, including Rolex, Omega, and Cartier.

Category:Rolex watches

Category:Products introduced in 1953