Satsop Hills

File:Satsop Hills inset map.png in 1941, predating creation of Wynoochee Dam and lake.{{sfn|Raisz|1989}}]]

The Satsop River, with a {{convert|300|sqmi|adj=on}} watershed, rises in the hills and flows south to the Chehalis River.{{sfn|Smith|Wenger|2001|p=43}} Where the river rises, {{convert|160|in}} of annual precipitation qualifies as a temperate rainforest, a term used applied to the Satsop watershed by some publications.{{sfn|Smith|Wenger|2001|p=43}}{{sfn|Landers|2008|p=161}}{{sfn|Alaska Coastal Rainforest Center|2013|p=1}} The Wynoochee Oxbow meteorological station on the west end of the hills ({{coord|47|17|57|N|123|39|07|W|name=Wynoochee Oxbow}}) has both the highest average annual rainfall and the second highest ever recorded in the continental United States.{{sfn|Ahrens|2008|p=357}}{{sfn|NOAA|1999}} The hills lie partly in the Olympic National Forest but not quite in the Olympic National Park. In a 1916 geological survey, hills in the vicinity of Matlock were included with the Black Hills of Thurston County, but may have been describing formations on the East Fork of the Satsop, to the south of the area described above.{{efn|"The north limits [of the Black Hills] would then extend as far as Hoodsport on Hood Canal. The western limits would extend from Hoodsport southwesterly to Matlock and thence to McCleary ... [I]n the vicinity of Matlock they form a low divide between the Puget Sound basin and Grays Harbor. From Matlock the elevation of this divide gradually increases and soon merges into a high rugged spur of the Olympic Mountains..."{{sfn|Weaver|1916|p=137}}}}{{sfn|Schuster|2005}}

{{GeoGroup|section=Peaks}}

Peaks in the Satsop Hills include:{{citation|title=Topographic Map Summit Features in Mason County, Washington|publisher=TopoZone|url=http://www.topozone.com/states/washington.asp?county=Mason&feature=Summit}}

{{Further|Yacolt Burn}}

Forest fires have struck the hills repeatedly. The term "Satsop hills" has been used at least since 1885 when the Morning Oregonian used it to describe the location of forest fires.{{efn|"Heavy fires are raging in Mason County. At Shelton's Point the loggers are fighting it. Opposite that point Willey has had to remove his camp. Men are on watch along the Satsop railroad to prevent the fire from burning the logs, of which there are several hundred thousand feet. On the Satsop hills heavy fires are running, and large numbers of elk have been driven down in consequence." (emphasis added){{sfn|Morning Oregonian|1885}}}}

In September, 1902, "catastrophic" fires burned across Southwest Washington, including a burn from Elma to Shelton on Puget Sound that destroyed one million board feet of lumber at a mill in the hills above Elma, and uncounted volumes of live trees. On September 12, the county seat, Montesano experienced darkness at noon. A one- to two-mile wide swath of timber was completely burned from Elma to Summit Lake, 13 miles west.{{sfn|Tacoma Public Library|2004}}

Several fire lookouts were built on peaks in the 20th century as listed above as part of a national effort to control fires.

The hills were the hideout of John Tornow, a recluse known by several monikers, such as the "Wild Man of the Wynoochee". Tornow lived in the hills as a fugitive for 19 months between 1912 and 1913 after he was accused of murdering several people including two nephews. Several attempts to find Tornow were initiated, including the formation of posses. The "Mad Daniel Boone" was eventually found in mid-April 1913,{{efn|Reports vary on the actual day of Tornow's death. New reports and accounts mention as early as April 14th, while his tombstone reads April 16. See sources listed.}} and after a brief gun fight, was killed by Chehalis County sheriff's deputy, Giles Quimby. Tornow's body was displayed in Montesano and despite infamy, Quimby refused vaudeville offers to recount the manhunt.{{sfn|Gibson|2001|p=36|ps= he lived on "a homestead on the upper Satsop River"}}{{sfn|Lindstrom|2014}}{{sfn|Van Syckle|1982|ps= "two quick shots slammed through the Satsop hills and the two boys were dead"}}{{cite web |last1=Pierce |first1=J. Kingston |title=Wild Man of the Wynoochee |url=https://www.historylink.org/File/5079 |publisher=HistoryLink |access-date=October 14, 2024 |date=January 19, 2003}}

The hills are crossed by extensive logging roads and an abandoned logging railroad formerly operated by Simpson Timber Company.{{sfn|Hawthorn|2003}}{{sfn|Milliman|2014}} The Vance Creek Bridge, {{convert|347|ft}}{{cite web|url=http://www.highestbridges.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vance_Creek_Bridge |title=Vance Creek Bridge |date=10 December 2009 |work=HighestBridges.com |publisher=Eric Sakowski |accessdate=1 November 2016 |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20160912224628/http://highestbridges.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vance_Creek_Bridge |archivedate=12 September 2016 |url-status=live}} above Vance Creek ({{coord|47|20|04|N|123|19|17|W}}), was the highest railroad bridge in the United States and remains among the twenty highest bridges in the country.{{sfn|Marshall|1981}}

Deer and Roosevelt Elk herds are in the hills, as well as black bear, cougars and game birds including grouse and "the largest population of mountain quail in the state". Elk are probably migratory and move in and out of the Olympic National Park.{{efn|"Elk in GMU 636 can primarily be found in the upper Wynoochee River valley, the Skokomish River valley, and near the town of Matlock, WA. Although some herds remain non-migratory, we have documented migratory movement from the upper Wynoochee to the Olympic National Parkand the North Fork Skokomish River at Lake Cushman, as well as movement up the South Fork Skokomish river valley into the Olympic National Park."{{sfn|WDFW|2014}}}}{{sfn|Beerbower|2014}}

Sasquatch are reported to live in the hills, with 22 reported sightings as of 2014,{{sfn|Grays Harbor Tourism|2014}} including a case discovered by a sheriff's deputy in 1982 and investigated by an Idaho State University biologist in 2004.{{sfn|Meldrum|2004}}

File:WEST FORK OF THE SATSOP RIVER IN OLYMPIC NATIONAL TIMBERLAND, WASHINGTON. NEAR OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK - NARA - 555218.jpg

Recreation in the hills includes canoeing and kayaking, camping, fishing, hunting and hiking.{{sfn|WDFW|2014}}{{sfn|Landers|2008|pp=159–163}}{{sfn|US Forest Service|2014}}{{sfn|Washington State Parks|2009}}{{sfn|Smith|Wenger|2001|p=29}} Schafer State Park, part of the Washington State Parks system, is on the Satsop River in the low hills at an altitude of {{convert|125|ft}};{{Cite gnis | id = 1508146 | name = Schafer State Park | accessdate = 2014-11-03 }} Truman Glick County Park ({{convert|35|acre|abbr=on}}) is along the abandoned railroad on the southern side of the hills.{{sfn|Hawthorn|2003}}{{sfn|Mason County Parks|2014}} Hiking destinations noted in printed and online guides include Satsop Lakes ({{coord|47|25|25|N|123|30|37|W|display=inline}}),{{sfn|US Forest Service|2014}} Spoon Creek Falls,{{sfn|Romano|2007|p=114}}{{sfn|Wood|2010|p=242}} South Mountain, a {{convert|3044|ft|adj=on}} "moderately well known winter hiking destination" in Mason County,{{cite summitpost|title=South Mountain|publisher=Summitpost.org|id=881400|accessdate=2014-11-03}}{{cite peakbagger|title=South Mountain|id=25093|accessdate=2014-11-03}} and Vance Creek Bridge, "made famous from millions of Instagram, Facebook, Tumblr and Twitter images" and though on closed private land, was "one of the more popular destinations on the Olympic Peninsula".{{sfn|Milliman|2014}}

The Grays Harbor County high point is a {{convert|4880|foot|adj=on}} peak near a slightly higher peak in Mason County unofficially named {{vanchor|Wynoochee Point}}, sought by highpointing enthusiasts; it is on the Grays Harbor–Mason County line in the Satsop Hills or nearby in the adjacent Wynoochee watershed ({{coord|47|29|42|N|123|30|22|W}}).{{sfn|Roper|1994}}{{sfn|Slayden|2004}}{{sfn|Wolcott|1961}}

{{notelist}}

;Notes

{{reflist|30em}}

;Sources

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• {{citation|title=Pacific Coastal Temperate Rainforest of North America|format=Two-page flyer

| author=Alaska Coastal Rainforest Center|publisher=University of Alaska Southeast|year=c. 2013|url=http://acrc.alaska.edu/acrc_publications/index.html|ref={{harvid|Alaska Coastal Rainforest Center|2013}}}}

• {{citation|url=http://www.beerbowerxmastrees.com/Products.html|title=Tree farm products|publisher=Beerbower Xmas Tree Farm|location=Elma, Washington|accessdate=2014-11-03|ref={{harvid|Beerbower|2014}}}}
• {{citation|title=Outlaw Tales of Washington|first=Elizabeth |last=Gibson|publisher=Globe Pequot|year=2001|pages=36–46|isbn=9780762711505|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OHMNvgAACAAJ&pg=PA36}}
• {{citation|title=Simpson Timber Railroad abandoned grade|first=Joel|last=Hawthorn|date=July 1, 2003|publisher=Washington Trails Association|url=http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/tripreport-2003070100|accessdate=2013-11-03}}
• {{citation|title=A Visit to the Wynoochee River Valley|publisher=Grays Harbor Tourism|location=Elma, Washington|date=May 15, 2014|url=http://visitgraysharbor.com/2014/05/15/a-visit-to-the-wynoochee-river-valley/|ref={{harvid|Grays Harbor Tourism|2014}}}}
• {{citation

|chapter=Satsop River: Lower Main Stem, East and West Forks

|title=Paddling Washington: Routes in Washington State & the Inland Northwest Guide Book

|first=Rich |last=Landers

|year=2008

|publisher=The Mountaineers Books

|isbn=978-1-59485-056-1

|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zAMqMaiYgegC&pg=PA159

}}

• {{citation|title=Villain or Victim?: The untold story of the "Wildman of the Wynooche" | first=Bill |last=Lindstrom | publisher=Xlibris | year=2014 | isbn=9781499061550 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RySYBAAAQBAJ}}
• {{citation|title=The Guinness Book of Rail Facts and Feats|first=John |last=Marshall|year=1981|page=73}}
• {{citation|title=Truman Glick County Park|url=http://www.co.mason.wa.us/parks/truman_glick_park.php|accessdate=2014-11-03|ref={{harvid|Mason County Parks|2014}}}}
• {{citation|title=Evaluation of Alleged Sasquatch Footprints and Their Inferred Functional Morphology|first=D. Jeffrey|last=Meldrum|authorlink=Jeffrey Meldrum|via=Department of Biological Sciences, Idaho State University|journal=Journal of Scientific Exploration|volume=18|number=1|pages=65–79|year=2004|url=http://www.scientificexploration.org/journal/jse_18_1_meldrum.pdf|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140726155100/http://www.scientificexploration.org/journal/jse_18_1_meldrum.pdf|archivedate=2014-07-26}}{{rs?|date=February 2020}}
• {{citation|title=The Closing of Vance Creek Bridge|first=Scott|last=Milliman|work=Exotic Hikes|location=Olympia, Washington|date=August 15, 2014|url=http://exotichikes.com/the-closing-of-vance-creek-bridge-aka-that-nwbridge/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140821011822/https://exotichikes.com/the-closing-of-vance-creek-bridge-aka-that-nwbridge/|archive-date=2014-08-21|url-status=dead}}
• {{citation|title=Washington news|newspaper=Morning Oregonian|location=Portland, Oregon|date=August 10, 1885|page=Image 8 / column 4|url=http://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn83025138/1885-08-10/ed-1/seq-8/|ref={{harvid|Morning Oregonian|1885}}}}
• {{citation|title=Record annual maximum precipitation by state|publisher=U.S. National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration|year=1999|url=http://www1.ncdc.noaa.gov/pub/data/special/maxann.pdf|ref={{harvid|NOAA|1999}}}}
• {{citation|title=Washington, a Centennial Atlas|contribution=Washington State landforms map|last=Raisz|first=Erwin|authorlink=Erwin Raisz|editor-last=Scott|editor-first=James William|publisher=Center for Pacific Northwest Studies, Western Washington University|location=Bellingham, Washington|year=1989|isbn=0929008243|page=4}} – 1941 original hand-penned map, 1965 third revision
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• {{citation

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|accessdate=2014-11-04

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• {{citation|title=Geological Map of Washington State|first=J. Eric|last=Schuster|year=2005|publisher=Washington Department of Natural Resources, Division of Geology and Earth Resources (DGER)|via=Washington State Geological Survey's Washington State Geology News blog|url=https://washingtonstategeology.wordpress.com/2012/10/19/happy-geologic-map-day/}}
• {{citation

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| publisher=peakbagger.com

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• {{citation

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| work=Northwest Room's Unsettling Events file

| publisher=Tacoma Public Library Northwest Room

| date=July 12, 2004

| accessdate=2014-11-04

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| ref={{harvid|Tacoma Public Library|2004}}

}}

• {{citation

| title=Olympic National Forest—Wynoochee area recreation

| publisher=United States Forest Service

| url=http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/olympic/recreation/recarea/?recid=79317

| accessdate=2014-11-03

| ref={{sfnref|US Forest Service|2014}}

}}

• {{cite book|title=The river pioneers: early days on Grays Harbor

| first=Edwin

| last=Van Syckle

| editor=David A. James

| publisher=Pacific Search Press | year=1982

| isbn=0914718657 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vQwlAAAAMAAJ&q=satsop-hills

| page=333

}}

• {{citation

|title=The Tertiary formations of western Washington

|work=Washington Geological Survey

|last=Weaver

|first=Charles E.

|publisher=State of Washington

|location=Olympia

|year=1916

|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-xsmAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA137

}}

• {{citation

|title=Salmon And Steelhead Habitat Limiting Factors: Chehalis Basin and Nearby Drainages Water Resource Inventory Areas 22 and 23

|first1=Carol J.

|last1=Smith

|publisher=Washington State Conservation Commission

|first2=Mark

|last2=Wenger

|date=May 2001

}}

• {{citation

|title=Olympic Mountain Trail Guide

|first=Robert

|last=Wood

|year=2010

|isbn=9780898866186

|publisher=The Mountaineers Books

|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=KIDf4dNCo_AC&pg=PA242}}

• {{citation|title=Lakes of Washington: Western Washington|publisher=State of Washington, Division of Water Resources|first=Ernest E.|last=Wolcott|year=1961|page=49|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=bs4uAQAAIAAJ}}
• {{citation|title=Hunting Season Prospects 2014 District 15—Mason, Kitsap, & East Jefferson Cos.|year=2014|publisher=Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife|url=http://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/prospects/2014/district15.pdf|ref={{harvid|WDFW|2014}}}}
• {{cite web

|title = Complete information for Schafer State Park

|url = http://www.parks.wa.gov/580/Schafer

|publisher = Washington State Parks

|year = 2009

|accessdate = 2014-11-03

|ref = {{harvid|Washington State Parks|2009}}

|url-status = dead

|archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20141113053616/http://www.parks.wa.gov/580/Schafer

|archivedate = 2014-11-13

}}

• [http://mosswalks.blogspot.com/2012/04/south-mountain.html Walks with Moss: South Mountain] hike report

{{Washington State hills and ridges}}

Category:Landforms of Mason County, Washington

Category:Hills of Washington (state)