Sinews of Survival

{{Short description|1997 ethnographic book by Betty Kobayashi Issenman}}

{{Infobox book

| name = Sinews of Survival

| image = Sinews of Survival cover.jpg

| author = Betty Kobayashi Issenman

| language = English

| country = Canada

| subject = Inuit clothing

| isbn = 978-0774805964

| published = 1997 (University of British Columbia Press)

| media_type = Print (Hardcover)

| pages = 274

}}

Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing is a 1997 ethnographic book about Inuit clothing by Canadian ethnologist Betty Kobayashi Issenman.{{Cite journal|last=Hik|first=David S.|date=2005|title=Northern News|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/40512703|journal=Arctic|volume=58|issue=2|pages=230|jstor=40512703|issn=0004-0843}} The book draws from existing research as well as Issenman's own travels and research with Inuit seamstresses. Sinews of Survival is illustrated with maps, clothing patterns, and color photographs of numerous clothing items.

Summary

The first chapters of the book discuss the history of Inuit clothing as it developed through the prehistoric, historic, and modern eras, covering the materials, tools, and processes that have traditionally been used to make these garments.{{Cite journal|last=Oakes|first=Jill|date=2000|title=Review of Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/25605994|journal=Anthropologica|volume=42|issue=2|pages=246|jstor=25605994|issn=0003-5459}} Early European research on Inuit clothing is also explored.{{Cite journal|last=Arnold|first=Charles D.|date=1998|title=Review of Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing|journal=Arctic|volume=51|issue=3|pages=289–290|doi=10.14430/arctic1167|jstor=40512144|issn=0004-0843|doi-access=free}} The bulk of the book covers the distinct styles of each of ten Canadian Inuit subgroups: the Inuvialuit, Copper Inuit, Netsilik, Iglulingmiut, Sallirmiut, Caribou Inuit, Nunatsiarmiut or Baffin Island Inuit, Nunavimiut or Ungava Peninsula Inuit, Qikirtamiut or Belcher Islands Inuit, and the Inuit of Nunatsiavut in Labrador. Although focused on Canadian Inuit in particular, the book also provides a brief introduction to the clothing of other circumpolar peoples, including the Greenlandic Inuit, Alaskan Iñupiaq and Yup'ik, and the indigenous peoples of Siberia, due to shared traits in their respective clothing.{{Cite journal|last=Baril|first=Gérald|date=1998|title=Review of Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/25605906|journal=Anthropologica|volume=40|issue=2|pages=231–232|doi=10.2307/25605906|jstor=25605906|issn=0003-5459}} The remainder of the text discusses the aesthetic design and spiritual elements of Inuit clothing and explores areas for future research.

Reception

Sinews of Survival was positively received by academics. Archaeologist Charles D. Arnold described it in Arctic as "a delight to read," specifically citing the layout and use of illustrations as a positive, and noted that it was "the most comprehensive yet available" on the topic. In his review for Anthropologica, anthropologist Gérald Baril stated that it "will now be a cardinal reference in the field." In American Indian Quarterly, historian Carolyn O'Bagy Davis wrote that Sinews of Survival "is a beautiful and exhaustive documentation that will be a valuable resource."{{Cite journal|last=Davis|first=Carolyn O'Bagy|date=1999|title=Review of Sinews of Survival: The Living Legacy of Inuit Clothing|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/1185973|journal=American Indian Quarterly|volume=23|issue=2|pages=79–80|doi=10.2307/1185973|jstor=1185973|issn=0095-182X}} For Choice Reviews, B.B. Chico highlighted the "extensive bibliography and useful glossary."{{Cite journal|last=Chico|first=B.B.|date=March 1998|title=Sinews of survival: The living legacy of inuit clothing.|url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/225886153|journal=Choice Reviews|volume=35|issue=7|pages=1231|id={{ProQuest|225886153}}|via=ProQuest}}

The book was also well-received by lay critics. Paul Waters of the Montreal Gazette wrote that the book was "richly detailed" but found it too academic for most lay readers.{{Cite news|last=Waters|first=Paul|date=December 6, 1997|title=For Inuit, clothes spell survival|pages=J6|work=The Montreal Gazette|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/81733984/for-inuit-clothes-spell-survival/|access-date=2021-07-19}} Robin McGrath of The Telegram wrote that there is "a great deal here to interest lovers of art and fashion."{{Cite news|last=McGrath|first=Robin|date=April 5, 1998|title=Review of Sinews of Survival|work=The Telegram|author-link=Robin McGrath}} In 2004, Michelle Paver, an author of historical fiction, named Sinews of Survival as one of her favorite anthropology books.{{Cite web|last=Paver|first=Michelle|date=November 10, 2004|title=Michelle Paver's favourite books on archaeology and anthropology|url=http://www.theguardian.com/books/2004/nov/10/bestbooks.scienceandnature|access-date=2021-07-19|website=The Guardian|language=en}}

Sinews of Survival won the 1998 Millia Davenport Award from the American Costume Society and the Alcuin Society Award for Excellence in Book Design.{{Cite journal|last=Bennett|first=Vicki|date=Jul 1999|title=Visual imagery and scholarly publishing: reflections from an academic turned editor|url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/213892406|journal=Journal of Scholarly Publishing|location=North York|volume=30|issue=4|pages=186–196|id={{ProQuest|213892406}}|via=ProQuest}}{{Cite web|title=CSA Millia Davenport Publication Award|url=https://costumesocietyamerica.com/resources/grants-awards-and-honors/millia-davenport-publication-award/|website=Costume Society of America}} Issenman was appointed a Member of the Order of Canada in 2002 for her research on Inuit clothing, including her work on Sinews of Survival.{{Cite news|last=Carroll|first=Ann|date=July 6, 2002|title=On a roll: painter, 95, saluted: Montrealer Jori Smith named to Order of Canada for 'groundbreaking role' in art|work=The Montreal Gazette|url=https://www.proquest.com/docview/433847069|access-date=July 18, 2021|id={{ProQuest|433847069}}}}{{Cite web|title=Betty Kobayashi Issenman, C.M., M.S.S.|url=https://archive.gg.ca/honours/search-recherche/honours-desc.asp?lang=e&TypeID=orc&id=6622|access-date=2021-07-19|website=Order of Canada}}

References