Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015.{{cite web|title=IFSC Proposes Sport Climbing For Toyko 2020 Olympic Games|url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ifsc-proposes-sport-climbing-for-tokyo-2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190810134122/https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ifsc-proposes-sport-climbing-for-tokyo-2020|archive-date=Aug 10, 2019|publisher=The British Mountaineering Council}} In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics;{{cite web|date=September 28, 2015|title=Surfing and skateboarding make shortlist for 2020 Olympics|url=http://www.grindtv.com/surf/surfing-skateboarding-make-shortlist-2020-olympics/#o7ywgs7MO0zEB9MH.97|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160813030631/http://www.grindtv.com/surf/surfing-skateboarding-make-shortlist-2020-olympics/#o7ywgs7MO0zEB9MH.97|archive-date=August 13, 2016|access-date=August 8, 2016|website=GrindTV.com}} and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games.{{cite web|date=June 1, 2016|title=IOC Executive Board supports Tokyo 2020 package of new sports for IOC Session - Olympic News|url=https://www.olympic.org/news/ioc-executive-board-supports-tokyo-2020-package-of-new-sports-for-ioc-session|access-date=August 8, 2016|website=Olympic.org}} Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program.{{cite web|date=August 3, 2016|title=IOC approves five new sports for Olympic Games Tokyo 2020|url=https://www.olympic.org/news/ioc-approves-five-new-sports-for-olympic-games-tokyo-2020|access-date=August 22, 2016|website=Olympics.org|publisher=International Olympic Committee}}

At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community.{{cite web|title=Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect.|date=17 April 2019 |url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/04/rock-climbing-added-to-olympics-2020/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190810141313/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/04/rock-climbing-added-to-olympics-2020/|archive-date=Aug 10, 2019|publisher=National Geographic}}

Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering.{{cite web|title=Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect.|date=17 April 2019 |url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/04/rock-climbing-added-to-olympics-2020/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190810141313/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/04/rock-climbing-added-to-olympics-2020/|archive-date=Aug 10, 2019|publisher=National Geographic}}{{cite web|title=Vertical Triathlon: The Future of Climbing in the Olympics|date=30 August 2016 |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/vertical-triathlon-the-future-of-climbing-in-the-olympics/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190810145152/https://www.climbing.com/news/vertical-triathlon-the-future-of-climbing-in-the-olympics/|archive-date=Aug 10, 2019|publisher=climbing.com}}{{cite web|title=Olympic Committee Unanimously Votes to Include Sport Climbing in Paris 2024 Games|date=25 June 2019 |url=https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympic-committee-unanimously-votes-to-include-sport-climbing-in-paris-2024-games/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190704153145/https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympic-committee-unanimously-votes-to-include-sport-climbing-in-paris-2024-games/|archive-date=Jul 4, 2019|publisher=climbing.com}}

For Olympic level sports climbing, route setters are instructed to set lead climbs at a grade of between {{climbing grade|8c}} and {{climbing grade|9a}} for both the men's and women's events. For boulder, men's routes are set between a grade of {{boulder grade|v10}} and {{boulder grade|V14}}, and women's routes between {{boulder grade|v9}} and {{boulder grade|V12}}.{{Cite web |title=IN FOCUS: What does it take to become an Olympic climber? |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/what_does_it_take_to_become_an_olympic_climber-13741 |access-date=2024-09-27 |website=www.ukclimbing.com |language=en}}{{Cite web |last=Clarke |first=Owen |date=2024-07-31 |title=Just How Hard is Olympic Sport Climbing? |url=https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/how-hard-is-olympic-sport-climbing/ |access-date=2024-09-27 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}

NB:

• Lead grades are given in French Numerical and grades in brackets () are in American YDS.
• Boulder grade are given in V-Grades and grades in brackets () are in Fb-Grades.
• Due to the climbing routes being at the highest level, routes cannot be sufficiently tested, therefore the exact grade of each route is unknown, and may not reflect the target range.

The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.

{{notelist}}

|-

| rowspan="2" | Women's combined (speed)|| Qualification || Aleksandra Mirosław || align=left | {{flagIOC|POL|2020 Summer}} || 6.97

|4 August 2021 || {{OlyR|}}{{Cite web|title=Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification Results|url=https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73S_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL0001SP--.pdf|url-status=dead|access-date=2021-08-08|archive-date=2021-08-04|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210804115240/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C73S_CLBWCOMBINED----------QUAL0001SP--.pdf}}

|-

|Final

|Aleksandra Mirosław

|{{flagIOC|POL|2020 Summer}}

|6.84

|6 August 2021

|WR{{Cite web|title=Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets|url=https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C75S_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL-0001SP--.pdf|url-status=dead|access-date=2021-08-08|archive-date=2021-08-06|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210806120324/https://olympics.com/tokyo-2020/olympic-games/resOG2020-/pdf/OG2020-/CLB/OG2020-_CLB_C75S_CLBWCOMBINED----------FNL-0001SP--.pdf}}

|-

|Women's speed

|Qualification

|Aleksandra Mirosław

|{{flagIOC|POL|2024 Summer}}

|6.06

|rowspan=2|2024 Paris

|5 August 2024

|WR{{Cite web|title=Sport Climbing - Women's Speed, Qualification Seeding heats Results |date=5 August 2024|url=https://olympics.com/en/paris-2024/results/sport-climbing/women-s-speed/qual0001sd--|access-date=8 August 2024}}

|-

|Men's speed

|Bronze medal match

|Sam Watson

|{{flagIOC|USA|2024 Summer}}

|4.74

|8 August 2024

|WR

|}

{{updated|the women's combined event of 2024 Olympics}}{{cite news |title=Sport Climbing - Medal Standings |publisher=International Olympic Committee|date=8 August 2024|website=Olympics.com|archive-date=|access-date=8 August 2024|archive-url=|url=https://olympics.com/OG2024/pdf/OG2024/CLB/OG2024_CLB_C95_CLB-------------------------------.pdf|url-status=}}

{{Medals table

| caption =

| host =

| flag_template = flagIOCteam

| event =

| team =

| gold_POL = 1 | silver_POL = 0 | bronze_POL = 1

| gold_INA = 1 | silver_INA = 0 | bronze_INA = 0

| gold_SLO = 2 | silver_SLO = 0 | bronze_SLO = 0

| gold_ESP = 1 | silver_ESP = 0 | bronze_ESP = 0

| gold_GBR = 1 | silver_GBR = 0 | bronze_GBR = 0

| gold_CHN = 0 | silver_CHN = 2 | bronze_CHN = 0

| gold_JPN = 0 | silver_JPN = 2 | bronze_JPN = 1

| gold_USA = 0 | silver_USA = 2 | bronze_USA = 1

| gold_AUT = 0 | silver_AUT = 0 | bronze_AUT = 3

}}

• IFSC Climbing World Championships
• IFSC Climbing World Cup

{{reflist}}

• [https://olympics.com/ioc/the-international-federation-of-sport-climbing Olympic Committee – International Federation of Sport Climbing]
• [http://www.ifsc-climbing.com/ International Federation of Sport Climbing]

{{Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics}}

{{Sports at the Olympics}}

{{Climbing Competitions}}

Category:Sports at the Summer Olympics