Sungdare Sherpa

Sungdare Sherpa ({{langx|ne|सुन्दरे शेर्पा}}) 1956{{cite web | url=http://www.everesthistory.com/sherpas/sungdare.htm | title=The Sherpas of Everest Series: Sungdare Sherpa }} Thame village, Solukhumbu – 1989 Pangboche) was a Nepalese Sherpa guide for climbers of Mount Everest, who summitted Mount Everest five times. He was the first person to summit Mount Everest three times.{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=13 December 2019|title=A commemorative postage stamp on Sundare Sherpa, a Nepalese Sherpa-guide for Mount Everest|url=https://www.istampgallery.com/sungdare-sherpa/|archive-url=|archive-date=|access-date=|website=}}

Climbing career

Sungdare was with Hannelore Schmatz when she died on a 1979 expedition.{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=s3nl7FDRNwYC&q=%22Hannelore+Schmatz%22&pg=PA103 |title=In the Shadow of Denali: Life and Death on Alaska's Mt. McKinley - Google Books |isbn=9781558217263 |accessdate=2013-10-17|last1=Waterman |first1=Jonathan |year=1998 |publisher=Globe Pequot Press }} He remained with her after she died, and as a result, lost most of his fingers and toes to frostbite.{{cite web |url=http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/alpineclub/AlpineLeafletFull.pdf |title=The Alpine Club |publisher=Alpine-club.org.uk |access-date=2013-10-17 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120309002727/http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/alpineclub/AlpineLeafletFull.pdf |archive-date=2012-03-09 }}

Despite losing his digits, Sungdare summitted Mount Everest four more times after the 1979 expedition.{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gYkuPu9Yr6wC&q=%22Sungdare+sherpa%22&pg=PA16 |title=Tigers of the Snow and Other Virtual Sherpas: An Ethnography of Himalayan ... - Vincanne Adams - Google Books |isbn=0691001111 |accessdate=2013-10-17|last1=Adams |first1=Vincanne |year=1996 |publisher=Princeton University Press }}

Death

Sungdare drowned in a river below his village, Pangboche, Nepal in 1989.{{cite web |url=http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1309&dat=19950906&id=onpaAAAAIBAJ&sjid=xh4EAAAAIBAJ&pg=6923,2646970 |title=Mountain heroes who are left in the cold|website=news.google.com |access-date=3 February 2022 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130125035328/http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1309&dat=19950906&id=onpaAAAAIBAJ&sjid=xh4EAAAAIBAJ&pg=6923,2646970 |archive-date=25 January 2013 |url-status=dead}}

Elizabeth Hawley stated that he struggled with alcoholism and that his death was a suicide.{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FLnwU2jz3WQC&q=%22Sungdare+sherpa%22&pg=PA210 |title=Keeper of the Mountains: The Elizabeth Hawley Story - Bernadette McDonald - Google Books |date= October 2012|isbn=9781927330159 |accessdate=2013-10-17|last1=McDonald |first1=Bernadette |publisher=Rocky Mountain Books }} He was survived by his widow, Bhingfuti.

As quoted in an article in Backpacker magazine talking about Mount Everest:

{{quotation|The Summit is always different. Sometimes it is one side and sometimes the other. It changes every time.|Sungdare Sherpa, 1986[https://books.google.com/books?id=_N8DAAAAMBAJ&q=sungdare+sherpa&pg=PA26 The Backpacker - May 1986] (Google Books link)}}

Ascents of Everest

1979
1981 October summiting[http://www.everesthistory.com/everestsummits/summits80.htm Everest 80s to 85]
1982 October summiting
1985{{Cite web|url=http://www.everesthistory.com/sherpas/sungdare.htm|title = The Sherpas of Everest Series: Sungdare Sherpa}}
1988

Sungdare Sherpa

Climbing career

Death

Ascents of Everest

See also

References

Further reading