Tokoyama

File:Japanese wig master.jpg

In kabuki, the hairstyle, and more specifically the wig, is an important element of the art, as no actor appears on stage without one.{{sfn|Halford|Halford|1956|p=470}} The craftsmen who comb the actors' hair are called {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}.{{sfn|Halford|Halford|1956|p=470}} They are not responsible for creating the wigs (which is the responsibility of wig makers called the {{Transliteration|ja|katsuraya}}), but for fitting and finishing them before the actors go on stage.{{sfn|Leiter|2006|p=402}} Kabuki {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} are the only ones to be divided into groups called {{Nihongo|sangai tokoyama|三階床山||{{lit|third floor {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}}}}} and {{Nihongo|nikai tokoyama|二階床山||{{lit|second floor {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}}}}}.{{sfn|Gunji|1985|p=50}} These names were inspired by the floors of the Kabuki-za on which the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} work on their wigs.{{cite web|url=https://www.kabuki-za.co.jp/sya/vol7.html|title=歌舞伎座写真ギャラリー - VOL.7 歌舞伎座の「床山部屋」|language=ja|work=Kabuki-za|accessdate=5 January 2024}} With each group of {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} comes a specialization, and the 'second floor' {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} specialize in styling the hair of actors playing female roles, while the 'third floor' specialize in styling male characters.{{sfn|Gunji|1985|p=17}} Cases where a {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} does not specialize are rare, but they do exist.{{cite web|url=https://www.kabuki-bito.jp/special/stage/tepco-hirameki/post-hirameki-29/2/|title=役柄の数だけ、髪の形がある|language=ja|website=Kabuki-bito|date=10 March 2009 |publisher=Shochiku|accessdate=5 January 2024}} Kabuki {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} are assigned to specific actors on a full-time basis.

{{clear}}

In {{Transliteration|ja|bunraku}}, puppets are coiffed like real actors.{{cite web|url=https://performingarts.jpf.go.jp/E/art_interview/1006/1.html|title=Another fascination of Bunraku - The world of the "tokoyama" hair designer. Akiko Takahashi (Bunraku puppet hair dressing artist)|work=Japan Foundation|date=20 July 2010|accessdate=8 January 2024}} {{Transliteration|ja|Bunraku}} puppet theater is organized into two guilds. One, the {{Transliteration|ja|Bunraku Kyokai}}, groups together the artists ({{Transliteration|ja|shamisen}} players, puppeteers and narrators), while the other, the National Bunraku Theatre, groups together the support professions (costume and doll-head stewards). {{Transliteration|ja|Tokoyama}} belong to the latter organization. Unlike in kabuki, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} in {{Transliteration|ja|bunraku}} are responsible for both creating the wig and styling it. In {{Transliteration|ja|bunraku}}, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} receives instructions from the {{Transliteration|ja|kashirawari-iin}}, a theater steward selecting puppet heads from about 400 options, to show subtle differences in what the characters are expressing.{{sfn|Leiter|2006|pp=319-320}} Once the wig has been chosen, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} is then responsible for styling it to match the puppet.{{sfn|Leiter|2006|pp=319-320}} There are about 120 different hairstyles, with about 80 for men and 40 for women.

File:Fusanishiki 1961 Scan10016.JPG getting his hair done in 1961]]

{{See also|Rikishi#Clothing and physical appearance}}

In professional sumo, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} are employed by the Japan Sumo Association to cut and prepare wrestlers' hair, which is then styled in a {{Transliteration|ja|chonmage}} style.{{cite web|last=Gunning|first=John|author-link=John Gunning (journalist)|title=Sumo 101: Tokoyama (Hairdressers)|url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2018/11/14/sumo/sumo-hairdressers-require-many-years-training-specialized-tools/|work=The Japan Times|url-access=subscription|date=14 November 2018|access-date=12 December 2023|archive-date=18 September 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210918100628/https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2018/11/14/sumo/sumo-hairdressers-require-many-years-training-specialized-tools/|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|last=Schwartz|first=Daniel|date=13 October 2016|title=The Sumo Top Knot Is the Original Man Bun|url=https://www.meridian.net/japan/2016/10/13/13269478/history-of-sumo-wrestler-hair-longform-essay|access-date=2021-09-18|website=Meridian|language=en|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210918101038/https://www.meridian.net/japan/2016/10/13/13269478/history-of-sumo-wrestler-hair-longform-essay|archive-date=18 September 2021|url-status=dead}} Historically, wrestlers went to public barbershops to get their hair done.{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}} However, during the Meiji era, traditional barbers gradually disappeared as Western hairstyles became fashionable.{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}}{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} To continue styling the hair of wrestlers who had maintained the tradition of wearing the {{Transliteration|ja|chonmage}} topknot, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} were borrowed for a time from kabuki theaters to serve wrestlers during tournaments.{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}}{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} Eventually, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} became an integral part of professional sumo and began training specifically to style the wrestlers' hair.{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}}

Today, the Sumo Association employs the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} and ranks them according to experience and ability.{{sfn|Schilling|1994|p=124}} There are around 50 {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} employed by the Sumo Association at all times,{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}}{{cite web|url=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/sports/story/22302/|title=特集 横綱 白鵬のまげを結い続け、共に歩んだ床山|work=NHK|date=11 September 2021|access-date=18 January 2024|language=ja}} but new positions can be created if a stable with more than 12 wrestlers and no hairdresser requests so.{{cite web|url=https://intojapanwaraku.com/culture/242235/|title=伝統の「カミ」技で大相撲を支える、床山の世界 ～特等床山・床鶴氏インタビュー・前編～|work={{Interlanguage link|Waraku (magazine)|ja|3=和樂|lt=Waraku Magazine}} |publisher=Shogakukan |date=30 April 2024|access-date=1 May 2024|language=ja}} Apprentices, all men aged 15 to 19, are attached to a sumo stable like other personnel such as {{Transliteration|ja|gyōji}} (referee) or {{Transliteration|ja|yobidashi}} (handymen).{{sfn|Buckingham|1994|p=193}}{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}}{{sfn|Schilling|1994|p=124}} Stables that do not have their own {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} can rely on hairdressers from other stables belonging to the same {{Transliteration|ja|ichimon}} (clan) to do their wrestlers' hair.{{sfn|Cuyler|1979|p=139}}{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} Each {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} learns his trade from a senior member of staff.{{sfn|Schilling|1994|p=124}} If a {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}'s stable doesn't have a more experienced hairdresser, a hairdresser from the same {{Transliteration|ja|ichimon}} will take over the apprenticeship. {{Transliteration|ja|Tokoyama}} must train for at least seven years before they are considered capable of working on their own.{{sfn|Kakuma|1993|p=57}} Only the most senior {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} are entitled to prepare the more ornate {{Transliteration|ja|ōichonmage}}, the ginkgo leaf shaped topknot which {{Transliteration|ja|sekitori}}-ranked wrestlers wear in their bouts and on other formal occasions.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} This usually only happens after ten years' experience.{{sfn|Buckingham|1994|p=144}}{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=105}}

{{Transliteration|ja|Tokoyama}} are divided into a hierarchical system that does not follow the names of sumo divisions, unlike the {{Transliteration|ja|gyōji}} and {{Transliteration|ja|yobidashi}}. Beginners start at {{nihongo|fifth class||gotō}} and are promoted according to their years of service and skills until they reach {{nihongo|first class||ittō}}. {{Transliteration|ja|Tokoyama}} are not considered qualified craftsmen ({{Transliteration|ja|shikakusha}}) until they are promoted to the rank of {{nihongo|second class||nitō}}.{{cite web |url=https://www.nikkansports.com/battle/sumo/news/202309300000874.html|title=二等床山昇進の床隆「頑張ってきたかいがある」床旭美「一層真面目に取り組む」|date=30 September 2023|publisher=Nikkan Sports|access-date=18 January 2024|language=ja}} Promotion to third class takes around 10 years, while promotion to second and first class takes around 20 and 30 years respectively. When promoted to second class, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} receive a higher salary and a bonus during tournaments. When they have reached first class and have demonstrated exceptional skill, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} can ascend to {{Transliteration|ja|tokutō}}, or 'special class' {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}. Promotion to this rank has very strict prerequisites and the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} must have served for around 45 years and have demonstrated "excellent talents". There is normally a maximum of two {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} at this rank, although three special class {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} coexisted in 2019 (Tokohachi, Tokomatsu and Tokoyodo).{{cite web |url=https://hochi.news/articles/20191025-OHT1T50239.html?page=1|title=御嶽海と歩む出羽海部屋の床山、大銀杏に夢を結う|date=26 October 2019|publisher=Sports Hochi|access-date=18 January 2024|language=ja}} Special class {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} are the only ones allowed to style the topknot of a {{Transliteration|ja|yokozuna}}, a sumo wrestler of the highest rank. {{Transliteration|ja|Tokoyama}} are subject to mandatory retirement at the age of 65.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=105}}

In professional sumo, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} work under a pseudonym that always starts with the kanji for 'floor' or 'bed' ({{lang|ja|床}}, pronounced {{Transliteration|ja|toko}}) in their names.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} The rest of the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}'s name is usually derived from a kanji in his personal name, or from a kanji borrowed from the stable to which he belongs.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}}{{cite web|url=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/sports/story/1023/|title=特集 - 17歳の床山「ふるさとの力士の活躍願い 修行の日々」|work=NHK|date=27 November 2019|access-date=18 January 2024|language=ja}} Unlike {{Transliteration|ja|gyōji}}, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} names cannot be passed on and are therefore unique.

Special class {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} have also appeared on the {{Transliteration|ja|banzuke}} since January 2008 and in January 2012, first-class {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} were also added.

Wrestlers' hairstyles are so important in the culture of sumo that the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} profession is highly valued, with some former wrestlers employing their own hairdressers on their own money, like Taihō.{{sfn|Kenrick|1969|p=50}} Some wrestlers create close ties with their hairdresser, such as former {{Transliteration|ja|yokozuna}} Hakuhō, whose hair was combed throughout his career by the same {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}}, former special class {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} Tokohachi.{{cite web|author=Kensuke Suzuki |title=SUMO/ Hakuho worked with hairdresser who didn't like the yokozuna |url=https://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/14460044 |work=The Asahi Shimbun |date=25 October 2021 |access-date=19 January 2024 |archive-date=28 October 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211028065417/https://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/14460044|url-status=live}} The importance of {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} also extends to the founding of new stables, as their opening may be called into question if they are unable to obtain a hairdresser.{{sfn|Kenrick|1969|p=50}}

{{See also|Chonmage}}

File:2022年秋巡業---大相撲千葉場所---大銀杏ができるまで.webm]]

Depending on the environment in which they work, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} may use strictly traditional tools, while others have more freedom and also use modern tools. Regardless of their professional environment, all the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} use a special ointment called {{Transliteration|ja|binzuke}} (also spelled {{Transliteration|ja|bintsuke}}), renowned for its sturdiness, making it ideal for elaborate hairstyles.{{sfn|Adachi|1985|p=103}}{{sfn|Buckingham|1994|p=45}}{{cite web|last=Gunning|first=John|author-link=John Gunning (journalist)|title=Sumo 101: The Topknot |url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2018/09/14/sumo/sumo-101-topknot/|work=The Japan Times|url-access=subscription|date=14 September 2018|access-date=17 January 2024|archive-date=15 September 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180915130313/https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2018/09/14/sumo/sumo-101-topknot/#.W50DH1N_pqY|url-status=live}} In sumo, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} only use {{Transliteration|ja|binzuke}} produced by a company in Edogawa, Tokyo.{{Cite web|url=https://smart-flash.jp/lifemoney/54472/|title=力士の髷はどうやって作るのか「床山」神の技術の真髄を見た|date=12 November 2018|website=Smart FLASH|publisher=Kobunsha|access-date=19 January 2024}} In {{Transliteration|ja|bunraku}}, {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} can make the most use of modern tools in hairstyling, such as hairsprays and hair dryers.{{sfn|Adachi|1985|pp=100-101}} However, they can not use oil in puppet headgear, as the puppet heads, made of cypress, would lose adhesion when color pigments are applied during restoration.{{sfn|Adachi|1985|p=104}}

In both sumo and kabuki, the {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} use two kinds of oil (called {{Transliteration|ja|sukiyu}} and {{Transliteration|ja|chuneri}}) produced specifically for the manufacture of wigs.{{cite web|url=https://www.kabuki-bito.jp/special/old/tepco-memory/post-memory-45/|title=ちょっと昔の歌舞伎 モノからひもとく 想い出あれこれ|language=ja|website=Kabuki-bito|date=9 September 2010 |publisher=Shochiku|page=3|accessdate=19 January 2024}}{{cite web|url=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/sports/story/3159/|title=特集 - おすもうさんの髪を整え守る"すき油"のおはなし|work=NHK|date=17 July 2020|access-date=19 January 2024|language=ja}} Sumo {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} use a {{Transliteration|ja|sukiyu}} ointment made traditionally from rapeseed, Japan wax and vanilla fragrance.{{cite web|author1=Kenichi Hato |author2=Kensuke Suzuki |title=The few good men who prop up sumo's topknot a dying breed |url=https://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/13941587|work=The Asahi Shimbun|date=18 November 2020|access-date=15 January 2024|archive-date=20 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201120014625/https://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/13941587|url-status=live}} This ointment has a distinctive scent that is associated with professional sumo.{{cite web |url=https://www.nikkansports.com/battle/sumo/news/202403070000265.html|title=部屋ごと季節ごとに硬さや粘り調整の繊細さ 力士の美しいまげ支えるびん付け油「オーミすき油」|date=8 March 2024|publisher=Nikkan Sports|access-date=13 March 2024|language=ja}}

Professional sumo and kabuki {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} use combs and picks of various sizes.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}} The special handmade combs are called {{Transliteration|ja|kushi}}.{{sfn|Buckingham|1994|p=120}} Generally, these tools were made in the Kyoto Prefecture,{{sfn|Buckingham|1994|p=194}} although it seems that the last company to manufacture them is now based in Nagoya. Each type of comb is made from a different type of wood.{{cite AV media|people=Great Big Story |title=The Hairdresser to Japan's Sumo Wrestling Elite|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m28Qme-XhbM|type=Youtube documentary |date=7 November 2019 |access-date=19 January 2024}} An {{Transliteration|ja|araigushi}} comb is first used on the hair, followed by a {{Transliteration|ja|sukigushi}} to spread out the ointment and shine the hair. A {{Transliteration|ja|soroigushi}} is used to tidy up the hair when everything is done. A {{Transliteration|ja|maekaki}} is used only to make the {{Transliteration|ja|ōichō}} style of topknot, where the hair is then spread out using a metal pick called a {{Transliteration|ja|magebo}}. In sumo, it is also common for {{Transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} to grow a thumbnail to facilitate styling.{{sfn|Hall|1997|p=104}}

As of the 2020s, however, it is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain the traditional tools and balms used to style the haircuts, as the craftsmen who produce them are all gradually retiring without replacement. This is notably the case of paper strings (called {{Transliteration|ja|motoyui}}) used to tie up the hair of sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors' wigs, which were made by just one craftsman in Iida, Nagano until he was forced to close down his business for good in 2020, when all activities requiring his strings (sumo, kabuki, period drama) ceased due to COVID-19. In recent years, however, a few craftsmen have taken over the traditional manufacturing activities and two craftsmen now continue to produce {{Transliteration|ja|motoyui}}.{{cite AV media|people=NHK World Japan |title=Keeping alive traditional paper ties|url=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/news/videos/20240123101537394/index.html|type=News report|date=23 January 2023 |access-date=25 January 2024}}{{cite web |url=https://www.nikkansports.com/battle/sumo/news/202403060000482.html|title=全国でわずか２人…力士のまげ支える元結職人にとって存続危機はチャンス「世界を目指せますよ」|date=7 March 2024|publisher=Nikkan Sports|access-date=7 March 2024|language=ja}} Ointment for wrestlers' heads is also in short supply, with fewer and fewer companies able to manufacture it due particularly to recruitment difficulties and the lack of a market with sufficient demand, and existing family businesses are unable to continue their activities after the current managers retire.

{{Portal|Japan|Theater}}

• Glossary of sumo terms
• Theatre of Japan
• Theatrical technician
• Hairstyle

{{reflist}}

• {{cite book|last=Adachi |first=Barbara C. |date=1985 |title=Backstage at Bunraku : a behind-the-scenes look at Japan's traditional puppet theatre |url=https://archive.org/details/backstageatbunra0000adac |url-access=registration |publisher=New York: Weatherhill |isbn=978-0834801998}}
• {{cite book|last=Gunji |first=Masakatsu |date=1985 |title=Kabuki |url=https://archive.org/details/kabuki0000gunj/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=Kodansha International |isbn=0870117327}}
• {{cite book |last1=Halford |first1=Aubrey S.|last2=Halford |first2=Giovanna M. |year=1956 |title=The kabuki handbook|url=https://archive.org/details/kabukihandbook00ahal/mode/2up |publisher=Charles E. Tuttle Co. |url-access=registration |isbn=9780804803328}}
• {{cite book|last=Leiter |first=Samuel L. |date=2006 |title=Historical dictionary of Japanese traditional theatre |url=https://archive.org/details/historicaldictio0000leit/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=Scarecrow Press |isbn=0810855275}}

• {{cite book|last=Buckingham |first=Dorothea M. |date=1994 |title=The Essential Guide to Sumo |url=https://archive.org/details/essentialguideto00doro/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=Bess Press |isbn=1880188805}}
• {{cite book|last=Cuyler |first=Patricia Lee |date=1979 |title=Sumo: From rite to sport |url=https://archive.org/details/sumofromritetosp0000cuyl/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=New York: Weatherhill |isbn=9780834801455}}
• {{cite book |last=Hall |first=Mina |title=The Big Book of Sumo: History, Practice, Ritual, Fight |publisher=Stone Bridge Press |year=1997 |isbn=978-1-880656-28-0 |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/bigbookofsumohis00hall}}
• {{cite book|last=Kakuma |first=Tsutomu |date=1993 |title=Sumo watching |url=https://archive.org/details/sumowatching0000kaku/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=Yohan Publications |isbn=4896842367}}
• {{cite book |last=Kenrick |first=Douglas M. |year=1969 |title=The Book of Sumo: Sport, Spectacle, and Ritual |url=https://archive.org/details/bookofsumosports0000kenr/mode/2up |publisher=New York: Weatherhill |url-access=registration |isbn=083480039X}}
• {{cite book|last=Schilling |first=Mark |author-link=Mark Schilling |date=1994 |title=Sumo: a fan's guide |url=https://archive.org/details/sumofansguide0000schi/mode/2up |url-access=registration |publisher=Japan Times |isbn=4789007251}}

{{Commons category}}

• [https://www.sumo.or.jp/IrohaKyokaiMember/tokoyama/ List of current {{transliteration|ja|tokoyama}} at the Japan Sumo Association site] (in Japanese)
• {{YouTube|id=JemFsoiwSeM&t}} - Sumo Prime Time traditional sumo headdress episode

Category:Japanese theatre people

Category:Sumo people

Category:Sumo terminology

Category:Hairdressing

Category:Japanese words and phrases

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