Tommy Nutter
{{Short description|British tailor (1943–1992)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}}
{{Infobox fashion designer
| image = Tommy Nutter, English tailor.jpg
| caption = Nutter, wearing one of his own suits in the 1970s.
| name = Tommy Nutter
| birth_name = Thomas Albert Nutter
| birth_date = {{Birth date|df=y|1943|4|17}}
| birth_place = Barmouth, Meirionnydd, Wales
| death_date = {{Death date and age|df=y|1992|8|17|1943|4|17}}
| death_place = London, England
| education = Willesden Technical College
| label_name = Nutters of Savile Row|
}}
Thomas Albert Nutter (17 April 1943 – 17 August 1992) was a British tailor, famous for reinventing the Savile Row suit in the 1960s.
Biography
Tommy Nutter was born Thomas Albert Nutter in Barmouth, Meirionnydd on 17 April 1943, to Christopher Nutter and Dorothy (formerly Banister). He was raised in Edgware, Middlesex, where his father owned a cafe. After the family moved to Kilburn, Tommy and his older brother David (born in Edgware, May 1939) attended Willesden Technical College. Tommy initially studied plumbing, and then architecture, but he abandoned both aged 19 to study tailoring at the Tailor and Cutter Academy.{{cite web| url = http://fashion.ukfirst.com/designers/TommyNutter/index.html| title = UkFirst.com}}
In the early 1960s, he joined traditional tailors Donaldson, Williamson & Ward. After seven years, in 1969, he joined up with Edward Sexton, to open Nutters of Savile Row{{cite web|title=British Style Genius|url=http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/film.aspx|work=Documentary|publisher=BBC|accessdate=9 March 2011|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110217005659/http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/film.aspx|archivedate=17 February 2011}} at No 35a Savile Row. They were financially backed by Cilla Black and her husband Bobby Willis, Managing Director of the Beatles' Apple Corps Peter Brown, and lawyer James Vallance-White.{{cite book
| last = Sherwood
| first = James
| title = The London Cut: Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring
| publisher = Marsilio, Italy
| year = 2007
| pages =
| isbn = 978-88-317-9155-7
| url-access = registration
| url = https://archive.org/details/londoncutsaviler0000sher
}}
The business was an immediate success, as Nutter combined traditional tailoring skills with innovative design. He designed for the Hardy Amies range, and then for the man himself. His clients included his investors, plus Sir Roy Strong, Mick Jagger, Bianca Jagger and Elton John. Nutter was most proud that, for the cover of the Beatles' album Abbey Road in 1969, he dressed three out of the four: George Harrison chose to be photographed on the road-crossing in denim.
In the 1970s his bespoke business became less successful, but he branched out into ready to wear clothing, marketed through Austin Reed. He also successfully expanded into East Asia, establishing the Savile Row brand in Japan.Encarta, Tommy Nutter In 1976{{cite book|last=Ford|first=James Sherwood ; with photography by Guy Hills ; foreword by Tom|title=Savile Row : the master tailors of British bespoke|year=2010|publisher=Thames & Hudson|location=London|isbn=978-0-500-51524-2|pages=222}} Sexton bought Nutter out of the business.{{cite news|title=Millionaire|url=http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/presszoom.aspx?id=Million%20air%20March%201988%20es.jpg|date=March 1988|access-date=9 March 2011|archive-date=20 March 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120320190158/http://www.edwardsexton.co.uk/presszoom.aspx?id=Million%20air%20March%201988%20es.jpg|url-status=dead}} Nutter went to work for Kilgour French and Stanbury, managing his own workroom. Sexton continued to run Nutters of Savile Row until 1983, when Nutter returned to the row with a ready to wear shop: "Tommy Nutter, Savile Row". This new venture, which traded at No 19 Savile Row until Nutter's death, was backed by J&J Crombie Limited, who continue to own the "Tommy Nutter" trademark. At this time, Sexton set up a business in his own name.
In the 1980s, he described his suits as a "cross between the big-shouldered Miami Vice look and the authentic Savile Row."New York Times, Obituary, Tommy Nutter, Savile Row Tailor, 49, August 18, 1992[https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/obituary-tommy-nutter-1541027.html Obituary: Tommy Nutter] from The Independent 18 August 1992 He created the clothing of the Joker as seen in the 1989 film Batman.{{Citation needed|date=March 2023}}
Nutter contracted AIDS sometime in the late 1980s, but kept his illness a secret for several years, staying out of the public eye. He died on August 17, 1992 at the age of 49, at the Cromwell Hospital in London of complications with the retrovirus, at a time when there were no effective treatments or care for people with AIDS.{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/obituary-tommy-nutter-1541027.html|title=Obituary: Tommy Nutter|work=The Independent|date=1992-08-18|accessdate=2009-10-09 | location=London | first=Meredith | last=Etherington-Smith |authorlink1=Meredith Etherington-Smith}}
In 2018, House of Nutter: The Rebel Tailor of Savile Row, a biography of Nutter, with reminiscences by his brother David, a New York celebrity photographer, was published; it was written by Lance Richardson.{{cite news|last1=Quinn|first1=Anthony|title=House of Nutter by Lance Richardson review – tailor to pop stars and gangsters|url=https://www.theguardian.com/books/2018/may/02/house-of-nutter-by-lance-richardson-review|accessdate=6 May 2018|work=The Guardian|date=2 May 2018}}
References
{{reflist}}
External links
- {{fashiondesigner|id=tommy-nutter}}
- {{IMDb name|id=1859134|name=Tommy Nutter}}
- [http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/18122-popup.html Victoria & Albert Museum: Blue check wool suit, Designed by Tommy Nutter, London, 1966]
- [https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E0CE5D71739F93BA2575BC0A964958260 Obituary in New York Times]
- [https://web.archive.org/web/20100514110709/http://www.nosr.co.uk/ Nutters of Savile Row Website]
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Nutter, Tommy}}
Category:LGBTQ fashion designers
Category:English fashion designers
Category:Businesspeople from the London Borough of Barnet
Category:AIDS-related deaths in England
Category:English LGBTQ artists
Category:Savile Row Bespoke Association members
Category:20th-century English male artists