Trivor

{{short description|Mountain in Pakistan}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name = Trivor
{{nq|ترِووُر}}

| photo = Trivor (7577m) (25571147500) (3to4).jpg

| photo_caption = Trivor as viewed from Aliabad

| elevation_m = 7577

| elevation_ref =
Ranked 39th

| prominence_m = 980

| prominence_ref =

| map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan

| map_caption = Location in Pakistan

| map_size = 250

| map_image={{Karakoram OSM}}

| label_position = left

| location = Gilgit District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan

| range = Hispar Muztagh

| coordinates = {{coord|36|17|15|N|75|05|10|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| first_ascent = 1960 by Wilfrid Noyce, Jack Sadler (British/US)

| easiest_route = Northwest Ridge: glacier/snow/ice climb

}}

Trivor ({{Langx|ur|ترِووُر}} or Trivor Sar) is one of the high mountain peaks of the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan. Its height is often given as {{convert|7728|m|ft}}, but this elevation is not consistent with photographic evidence.http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/elevmisquotes.html#hispar Some Frequently Misquoted Elevations The height given here is from a Russian 1:100,000 topographic map.{{cite web |url=http://echidna.rutgers.edu/expeditions/Hispar/Default.htm |title=Hispar area expeditions |access-date=2008-04-27 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080427142155/http://echidna.rutgers.edu/expeditions/Hispar/Default.htm |archive-date=2008-04-27 }} Hispar area: expedition reports and maps

The first ascent of Trivor was made by a British–American party, Wilfrid Noyce (UK) and Jack Sadler (USA) reached the summit on 17th August 1960. They climbed from the Trivor Glacier, which runs towards the peak from the south-west, and gained the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge which they then followed to reach the summit.{{cite journal | title = The Ascent of Trivor | journal =Alpine Journal| date=1961| first =Wilfrid | last = Noyce | issn= 0065-6569 |volume =#66 | issue= 302 | pages= 9–14 | access-date = 8 September 2024 |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1961_files/AJ%201961%209-14%20Noyce%20Trivor.pdf }} One of the members of the expedition team, Don Whillans, had shipped his motorbike (a 650cc Triumph Trophy) to Pakistan from the UK and after his climbing partners departed, he drove solo by motorbike the 7,000 miles from Rawalpindi to the UK.{{cite book | title = To The Unknown Mountain: Ascent of an Unexplored Twenty-five Thousander in the Karakoram | date=1962| first = C. W. F. (Wilfrid)| last = Noyce | publisher = Heinemann | access-date = 9 September 2024 | url =https://books.google.com/books?id=0Uc_AAAAMAAJ&q=Noyce,+Wilfrid++To+the+unknown+mountain }}

There has been only one other successful ascent of the peak in the 64 years since Noyce and Sadler reached the summit.{{cite web|url=https://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/|title=Himalayan Index|at=Search for Trivor at this page|website=Alpine Club (UK)}}{{cite journal | title = Trivor, Attempt on North Face Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2024| issn= 0065-6925 | first =Lindsay | last = Griffin | volume =#66 | issue = 98 | access-date = 8 September 2024 |url = https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216738 }}

In 1991 Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki made the second ascent. They also took the northwest ridge to the summit but they started from the north side, from the Momhil Glacier, and climbed a northeast-facing spur to gain the east ridge of the neighbouring Momhil Sar, they then descended to the col at the foot of Trivor’s northwest ridge and so to the summit.{{cite journal | title = Asia, Pakistan, Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=1992| issn= 0065-6925 | first =Toshifumi | last = Onuki | isbn= 9780930410513 | volume =34 | issue=66 | pages= 252–253 | access-date =9 September 2024 |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199225204/Asia-Pakistan-Trivor-Ascent-and-Momhil-Sar-Attempt }}

Sources

  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
  • Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.

=Notes=

{{reflist}}

Category:Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan

Category:Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram

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{{Pakistan-geo-stub}}